Rock Climbing Anchors : How to Place the Top Rope When Repelling in Rock Climbing

[dangerlaef]

Tips on how to spell "Rappelling"

[revisualize]

This is seriously a VERY BAD WAY to repel. Get a real repelling device or use a carabiner break.

[Tarzan07330]

need to opposite and oppose that. seriously, if ur gonna post this stuff....do it right!

[Amfreeman03]

Double biner it

[FoolyCoolyOo]

System not equalized and he needs to have 2 carabiners opposite and opposed on the anchor not one biner.

fail

[paintbaler94]

do you aveto leave your anchor behind when repelling? the gear is expensive and starts to add up

[snowyywwinters]

@paintbaler94 most climbs can be walked off the top, so you can pick your gear up, if not take some extra slings to make a natural anchor and repel off that. that way you only leave slings behind. dont let the rope cut through the slings,(its not a safe way, just a cheap one lol)

[stinkyhound]

navigating ropes and biners, ? now i am confused lol 0/10

[jrox007]

i keep posting that "i hate expert village videos"... see why?

[hikerclimber007]

saying "so this is a solid anchor" doesn't make it any less shitty. I thought this guy had been embarrassed off youtube years ago!!

[jenkster09]

Dude! The way you have that set up is if one side fails, the whole system fails! You need a loop at the third biner so if one fails the other can catch you. It's gonna take a shock load but it's better than nothing. Better yet tie an overhand to reduce any shock loading.

[appleton91083]

what a load of bollocks your just guna put loads of stress on ur second cam if one pops

[mykl1980]

not likely he hasn't equalised his system so crab will simply slip of the sling

[MAKB12345]

Its spelled "rappelling" and the system is not equalized

[scullion01]

A single locker is fine. I challenge anyone to give a reason why it isnt. If you think it's that unsafe, maybe you should think about why you dont double-up your lockers on your belay device.

[Notsoskilledgtrst]

The reason I double up the biners on a slingshot top-rope rope is that the anchor is remote; unlike with the locker on my belay device, I cant see it if the gate gets accidentally screwed to open position. Also, why not be redundant if you can? Is it really so hard or time consuming to clip in an extra biner?

[naval8viator]

The reason why you would double up a locking biner is almost exclusively redundancy. However, your pro is only as good as the weakest link. Its smart to double up on anchor bolts that you can't properly inspect and that are non-verifiable (nearly every bolt in existence that you personally haven't installed), but even if you double up on all your biners, unless you are using two ropes, you still have a single point of failure. Therefore, your system isn't redundant--inspect your gear.

[flyboy339745]

He has all of the proper equipment to make a solid anchor BUT HE DOESN'T!!! Nice "redundancy" with a single locker...why not girth hitch the slings through the chain anchor and double up the biners?

"You want the anchor free from rubbing on rocks..." he says as the rope rubs against the edge...

[DrugFreeIntegrity]

single point failure is expert advice???? yikes. beaner??? coome on... at least use two on each anchor if your going to use them at all.

[iolairjames]

this video is "reppelling" at least he got that right.

[skydivingdrew]

I think I just vomitted a little in my mouth. That anchor is shite and when I saw the poster's name I laughed out loud.

[jbnwc]

yikes - beginners, please do not consider this video "expert advice". Expert Village - you should be ashamed of this.

[buschrpm]

bad system... why? that anchor is NOT equalized...

[jamesdeans0007]

i can get every thing i need to repel in a hard wear store

[njmm]

Absolutely, and you should tip the employees at your hardware store for putting you on the idiots equivalent of death row... don't get me wrong, i'll be glad when you SPLAT... one less dumbass dirtying the gene pool...

[coolcat83]

unsafe, will extend, not a redundant power point.

[invisticone69]

He can't even spell rappeling properly..

[coolcat83]

dangerous, take this down!

[ax127]

did he say BEANER!

[moosmann12020]

Holy shit, take this off of Youtube before you get somebody killed. Expert Village my pasty white ass...

[eae100]

Too little information and other problems. The master point should be extended to go over the edge, as it is, the rope will be constantly rubbing at the top. As others have noted, it is preferable to have two reversed and opposed biners at the MP. On the bolts he is attaching two quickdraws, would be better to use locking biners on each attached to longer slings or use a cordelette. He keeps calling it a "good" anchor system, it is at best only "fair" and could easily be made "good".

[slickrock5065]

"This is an example of a good toprope system"???? This guy is a serial killer - do not listen to him!!!!

[eddnrrach2]

this is complete bullshit masquerading as good advice, his advice and videos are worthless crap...avoid

[cwgoffinski]

Fricken wow. This guy has like, what, 10 or so vids on climbing and anchors...probability would have it that he gets it right at least once but NO, not even once. It's like he's trying to kill people.

Awesome, redundancy with a single biner at the anchor power point. Not something I'd like to rAppel on. (not repel or rapel either). Geez the twits in this world.

This guy is so damn far from an expert it's retarded.

[smeghead666]

DUDE! Hell yes thankyou!

OK now People I am nationally certified in outdoor sports and education and I'm also a Qualified Rocksport Instructor.

***THIS IS NOT A SAFE SYSTEM***

The redundancy is completely lost with the rope being fed through a single screwgate at the top. You should be using two screwgates, opposite and opposed to each other, THAT is redunancy.

[flyboy339745]

Wow, somehow natural selection skipped over him...

[StillPool]

Dude!

The technique of roping down or abseiling is spelled: rapelling.

You're teaching people how to set up a "rap anchor" not "rep".

Shouldn't you be using a locker?