You mentioned that you had to fill a gap at the bottom of the veneer fill on the other side off camera. How did you go about doing that?
Also I'm pretty handy at woodworking but haven't had much experience with applying that to basses, which means I don't have a lot of the finer precision tools. I've heard that using filler putty is a good alternative to filling the fret slots with veneer, and think that with the tools at my disposal that would be a much easier option for me. What do you think?
@stephenthebassist If I remember I just used a dot of superglue. Regarding filler putty instead of veneer, I've said this many times in the comments but I'll say it again. The professional way to do this job is to fill the slots with a solid material of some sort, a wood veneer of a contrasting color seems to be the most appropriate choice since we're dealing with a wooden fingerboard. Putty will work, but it's less than ideal for many reasons. If you're a wood worker, do it right.
People seem to want me to tell them that putty is an acceptable substitute because it's easier to apply. Filling the slots isn't even the hardest part of the job, I would say that leveling off the board after the slots are filled is where it gets tricky and somebody can screw things up. Trimming this veneer is really quite easy (easier than it looks at least). If you want to speak with me and get a few tips, just give me a call at the store. I'd be happy to help in any way I can.
Man you have a nice collection of tools at your disposal! If I had everything you have, I'd feel 100% confident in self defretting my bass! Great videos! Thanks for sharing!
Hi. In your refretting a strat videos you said fall away is even more important on a bass. Did you put fall away onto this fretless bass fingerboard, or is it more of a fretted instrument thing? If you have, would the fall away measure pretty much the same as on the strat you worked on? Your vids are nutritious.
@rushbeat14 Yeah, I did add fall away to this neck. The amount you're shooting for would probably be the same regardless if you're dealing with a guitar or a bass .003-.007" or something in that neighborhood.
i 've defretted the very same bass keeping its original radius (12") what i still haven't done is properly levelling the fingerboard so it does not mwah all over. I don't have a neck jig. How do I go about leveling the board without the ability to emulate string tension? And how about the truss rod? Do I loosen it completely while levelling?
@jesterbass There's a lot i have to say about that, more than I'd like to go into in the comments section here. Give me a call at The Musician's Den and I'd be happy to speak with you in detail about it.
To be honest I can't recall. I picked the "pine" shaded stuff, for my first de-fret, so it would be an almost mocha colour when mixed with the rosewood dust very lightly.. if you know what I mean.
I bought it at Kent, a canadian store, and it came in a small tube with yellow rim, very easy to apply.
around the 12th fret it had a couple little air bubbles, but I just sawed it clean and re-filled it, problem solved.
I believe it's mainly because I made a small mix of the filler, elmer's white glue (same stuff you used to glue on the nut, except probably older) and a little bit of very very fine saw dust.
I'm using the StewMac neck jig to support the bass and recreate the string tension that is present when the bass is being played. Doing the fingerboard leveling is this way makes for more accurate work than just leveling the neck off the body under no tension. Hope that helps.
You don't need to use a neck jig, it just helps sometimes. Especially when you have a neck that behaves odd under string tension but not when the strings are off. Just get the neck as straight as you can (check it with a straight edge) with the strings off and you'll probably do an adequate job. You'll definitely want a radius block though, it's hard to maintain the proper fingerboard shape otherwise.
Not too bad if you know how to, or can resell 3-4 of the items (because one probably doesn't need 5 of the same item). :) Are you familiar with MN State Southeast Technical in Redwing, MN? They have courses for building guitars and for guitar repair. I considered it awhile ago, but seeing your vids has reinspired me:) Thanks Jason!
Darn, my previous comment was just erased:( Well, thanks again for your service here, and for sharing your expertise! I just had a thought... instead of using the flex saw, what if you could find and exacto type blade, that was flexible, and you could score both sides of the fret, then when you've got a deep enough scoring, break off the exposed part?? Again, you're the "expert, professional:)" Also, if I did this on an electric, inwhich there's no cosmetic need, could I use good wood glue?
That would probably work fine, scoring the veneer with a blade and then breaking them off. I don't recommend using wood glue. It's too thick, I think you'd have a hard time putting in the strips after you filled the slot with glue without breaking your veneer actually. The water thin CA glue will flow into the smallest gaps, which makes it ideal for this type of job. I'm not saying DON'T use aliphatic resin glue, you'll just never catch me using it for a fretless conversion :-) .
Jason, you did it again! Very good work, and thank you for taking the time to teach people that you don't even know:) I just had an idea... maybe you could find an exacto with a flexible blade, and score both sides, then break it off? If that helps, then I'm glad to have helpped! :) But again, thank you for sharing "your" expertise, God bless you man!
Concerning your neck jig: If one doesn't have one, is it just a matter of being creative and in some way applying forces to the neck so that the fretboard is perfectly level?
Also, concerning precision straightedges: is there a poor man's version that I could get away with? (Rather than spending 30+ for what might be a one time deal.)
Lastly: You rock! From growing up in the pre-internet age, I can especially appreciate the value of the information you're providing.
You should be able to get the neck straight without having to apply forces. Just adjust the truss rod, and get it as straight as you can. The reason I like to use the neck jig is so that I can be leveling the FB under very close to playing conditions by simulating string tension for the most accurate work. It is very possible to do good work if you don't have a neck jig though. And in regards to the straight edge, you almost HAVE to have something good you can trust as a straight edge.
You mentioned that you had to fill a gap at the bottom of the veneer fill on the other side off camera. How did you go about doing that?
Also I'm pretty handy at woodworking but haven't had much experience with applying that to basses, which means I don't have a lot of the finer precision tools. I've heard that using filler putty is a good alternative to filling the fret slots with veneer, and think that with the tools at my disposal that would be a much easier option for me. What do you think?
stephenthebassist 9 months ago
@stephenthebassist If I remember I just used a dot of superglue. Regarding filler putty instead of veneer, I've said this many times in the comments but I'll say it again. The professional way to do this job is to fill the slots with a solid material of some sort, a wood veneer of a contrasting color seems to be the most appropriate choice since we're dealing with a wooden fingerboard. Putty will work, but it's less than ideal for many reasons. If you're a wood worker, do it right.
smbstressfest 9 months ago
People seem to want me to tell them that putty is an acceptable substitute because it's easier to apply. Filling the slots isn't even the hardest part of the job, I would say that leveling off the board after the slots are filled is where it gets tricky and somebody can screw things up. Trimming this veneer is really quite easy (easier than it looks at least). If you want to speak with me and get a few tips, just give me a call at the store. I'd be happy to help in any way I can.
smbstressfest 9 months ago
Man you have a nice collection of tools at your disposal! If I had everything you have, I'd feel 100% confident in self defretting my bass! Great videos! Thanks for sharing!
6ckbass 10 months ago
Hi. In your refretting a strat videos you said fall away is even more important on a bass. Did you put fall away onto this fretless bass fingerboard, or is it more of a fretted instrument thing? If you have, would the fall away measure pretty much the same as on the strat you worked on? Your vids are nutritious.
rushbeat14 10 months ago
@rushbeat14 Yeah, I did add fall away to this neck. The amount you're shooting for would probably be the same regardless if you're dealing with a guitar or a bass .003-.007" or something in that neighborhood.
smbstressfest 10 months ago
I really relax when i see u working on that bass :)
jeroen0011 10 months ago
why you don´t tape the FB? Isn´t it pretty much work for such a "cheap" bass!? how much costs the converting!
Man, you got so much patience! And you a great artist... this vids are 100% Entertainment for my evening... thx!
rockrock3090 1 year ago
i like these vids!! it looks like you put the bass in a Saw trap, its funny
DrDoubleZero 1 year ago
i 've defretted the very same bass keeping its original radius (12") what i still haven't done is properly levelling the fingerboard so it does not mwah all over. I don't have a neck jig. How do I go about leveling the board without the ability to emulate string tension? And how about the truss rod? Do I loosen it completely while levelling?
jesterbass 1 year ago
@jesterbass There's a lot i have to say about that, more than I'd like to go into in the comments section here. Give me a call at The Musician's Den and I'd be happy to speak with you in detail about it.
smbstressfest 1 year ago
This is more of a hobby than a better playing preference huh?
Emceetem 1 year ago
@Emceetem
frets are like little speed bumps
sobman 1 year ago
@sobman I move quite fast with speed bumps then.
It's a nice mod. But i do just fine with my speed bumps.
Emceetem 1 year ago
@Emceetem
it's just a saying man. jaco pastorius said it.
its not a hobby for this guy, it's a profession. and it is a playing preference.
sobman 1 year ago
@sobman he can get a better job than just pulling metal out of wood.
Emceetem 1 year ago
@Emceetem
are you trying to be funny?
sobman 1 year ago
Thank you very much. Your videos are very helpfull.
KABAZURNA 2 years ago
I fill my frets with wood putty..
guglio1290 2 years ago
What type do you use?
smbstressfest 2 years ago
To be honest I can't recall. I picked the "pine" shaded stuff, for my first de-fret, so it would be an almost mocha colour when mixed with the rosewood dust very lightly.. if you know what I mean.
I bought it at Kent, a canadian store, and it came in a small tube with yellow rim, very easy to apply.
guglio1290 2 years ago
Did you have any issues with porosity after you leveled the fingerboard?
smbstressfest 2 years ago
around the 12th fret it had a couple little air bubbles, but I just sawed it clean and re-filled it, problem solved.
I believe it's mainly because I made a small mix of the filler, elmer's white glue (same stuff you used to glue on the nut, except probably older) and a little bit of very very fine saw dust.
guglio1290 2 years ago
Hey! I've got a question on what your doing between minute 6:15 to 7:10. The thing is, I don't understand what you're doing. -.-
I'm from europe, and not used to speak english. So is the neck changing in some way during your work? Are you correcting sth? Is this step necessary?
Sry for my kinda stupid asking, the rest I understood quite well :D
madhippie17 2 years ago
I'm using the StewMac neck jig to support the bass and recreate the string tension that is present when the bass is being played. Doing the fingerboard leveling is this way makes for more accurate work than just leveling the neck off the body under no tension. Hope that helps.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Yes it does help!
So I haven't got any apparature like that. Would you recommend to just simply tearing the strings on?
Thank you!
madhippie17 2 years ago
You don't need to use a neck jig, it just helps sometimes. Especially when you have a neck that behaves odd under string tension but not when the strings are off. Just get the neck as straight as you can (check it with a straight edge) with the strings off and you'll probably do an adequate job. You'll definitely want a radius block though, it's hard to maintain the proper fingerboard shape otherwise.
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Ok great! Thank you so much for your kind help! It's no matter of course meeting such friendly people.
Yes I'll surely use a radius block, here I am as accurate as you are. ;-)
So now everything is clear to me! YES thats great!!! *joy*
madhippie17 2 years ago
Thanks for the reply! I hope that stewmac gives you a deal on their tools;)
NorWes01 2 years ago
Alas, I get the same "two free when you buy three for the price of five" deal that everyone else gets...
smbstressfest 2 years ago
Not too bad if you know how to, or can resell 3-4 of the items (because one probably doesn't need 5 of the same item). :) Are you familiar with MN State Southeast Technical in Redwing, MN? They have courses for building guitars and for guitar repair. I considered it awhile ago, but seeing your vids has reinspired me:) Thanks Jason!
NorWes01 2 years ago
Darn, my previous comment was just erased:( Well, thanks again for your service here, and for sharing your expertise! I just had a thought... instead of using the flex saw, what if you could find and exacto type blade, that was flexible, and you could score both sides of the fret, then when you've got a deep enough scoring, break off the exposed part?? Again, you're the "expert, professional:)" Also, if I did this on an electric, inwhich there's no cosmetic need, could I use good wood glue?
NorWes01 3 years ago
That would probably work fine, scoring the veneer with a blade and then breaking them off. I don't recommend using wood glue. It's too thick, I think you'd have a hard time putting in the strips after you filled the slot with glue without breaking your veneer actually. The water thin CA glue will flow into the smallest gaps, which makes it ideal for this type of job. I'm not saying DON'T use aliphatic resin glue, you'll just never catch me using it for a fretless conversion :-) .
smbstressfest 3 years ago
Jason, you did it again! Very good work, and thank you for taking the time to teach people that you don't even know:) I just had an idea... maybe you could find an exacto with a flexible blade, and score both sides, then break it off? If that helps, then I'm glad to have helpped! :) But again, thank you for sharing "your" expertise, God bless you man!
NorWes01 3 years ago
2.
This is a far cry from needing to purchase a video, book, etc. This is a helluva nice public service you're providing. Keep it up. Many thanks.
mschar2 3 years ago
1.
Hello Jason,
Concerning your neck jig: If one doesn't have one, is it just a matter of being creative and in some way applying forces to the neck so that the fretboard is perfectly level?
Also, concerning precision straightedges: is there a poor man's version that I could get away with? (Rather than spending 30+ for what might be a one time deal.)
Lastly: You rock! From growing up in the pre-internet age, I can especially appreciate the value of the information you're providing.
mschar2 3 years ago
You should be able to get the neck straight without having to apply forces. Just adjust the truss rod, and get it as straight as you can. The reason I like to use the neck jig is so that I can be leveling the FB under very close to playing conditions by simulating string tension for the most accurate work. It is very possible to do good work if you don't have a neck jig though. And in regards to the straight edge, you almost HAVE to have something good you can trust as a straight edge.
smbstressfest 3 years ago
great videos jason, keep em coming!
MOGTROG 3 years ago