Professional SMT Soldering: Hand Soldering Techniques - Surface Mount

[BADtimmay]

that was beautifully done.

[mickeygovender]

Neat Work Dude.

[wolfprince7777]

amazing work, i found this video to help me solder a capacitor in my rear projection tv. it was very useful. awesome work

[sweetgyy]

nice work

[TheSoxmania]

Cantthis technique be used for replacing the motor control chip on a HDD?

[chensenhan]

what if the flash memory chip you are trying to install has BROKEN metal tips...i.e. there are no legs???

[SINEKT]

Good info here. I've been doing electronics since I was a little kid and still do it, but I had no idea you could do this by hand. Most of the times I try to resolder some chips on defective PCBs just to make sure there's no cold joint, I join together by accident 2 or 3 pins and have to use the solder pump to get rid of the excess solder.

[johhny303]

very nice soldering.

[Oerg866]

This video is very well made. Learn something new every day!

[guerrillaman69]

sexy

[RobotLover0]

What was the tool you were using to hold the chip down as you tacked it? Was it one of those vacuum tools?

[XxZAIBxX]

1:45 - 2:00 are these just solder shinner or what?

[boomy818]

@XxZAIBxX keeps it stronger on

[mocgpower]

Hi where can i buy that sucker thing you were holding the microcontroler with ?

[sonicfuker]

Beautiful.

[RobotN001]

humans work look so boring and drearily. and i suppose it is not lead-free. suicidal lead was used here !

[jkgamm041]

@RobotN001

Isn't it just awful ! It is the "suicidal' lead we have been using since the very beginning of soldering technology history, which has led to the greatest evolution in technological advancements of high reliability interconnections, for Class 3 High Performance Electronic Products.

STC is a specialist in lead-free applications using SAC 305 (silver), SN100C (Nickel) and SN 100E (Cobalt). I make it wet like a tin/lead eutectic paste, using a pre-heater. Lead-free is very easy.

[SuburbanDon]

Pretty good methods. And I consider myself good at this.

[yrofbar]

AWESOME!!!! ITS SO AMAZING! i thought soldering of a very tiny ICs is made by a machines but with this video i found out that it is made by a man... i hope i could do that... what is that kind of a cream u put in there?

[orrinbare]

you make it look so easy that its not even funny.... i labor for about 30 seconds on just one pin (i'm using DIP modules by the way) and you get them all in one smooth action.

[omfgg3tlost]

omg such nice work!!!!!

[DanFrederiksen]

it's all about the flux. get a flux pen if you are new.

[gnamp]

best scene = 2:30. very cool.

[KeithWasHere1]

OMG! i wish i could solder like that!!

[Tda7000]

Great video but I have one question.

When you are cleaning the flux off, you seem to use the same brush for the initial application of alcohol and also for pushing the kimwipe onto the part. Is this necessary - does the brush need to be wet? I would have thought you'd want the brush to be dry on the second part of the cleaning process. Can you please explain this?

[masterfistlord]

ahhh, nice solderporn

[CognitiveNetwork]

@masterfistlord LOL, same thought here.

[Beliyvadik]

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOW

[masterfistlord]

yay, quality solder porn.

[Djekson41]

Good job!!!

[PiMpStAnLeY]

this could be a guide on HOW-TO mod-chip a ps3, and xbox 360

[LXBD]

I had an orgasm watching this video WOW!

[etherlords88]

awesome.... i wish i could do such tricks with soldering irons :)

[djravery]

Good looking joints! I hafta mention tho, that tip looks a bit large for the fine-pitch used in the vids. Having the larger surface area helps store solder for the entire row of leads, however, I would also think that a tip temp of 650f or maybe even lower, would be sufficient with that large of tip.

[jkgamm041]

@djravery

I wish to comment on this for all viewers. This is the best of questions. 1) The larger type of hoof tip or drag soldering tip is necessary to achieve optimum wetting of the solder. Tin/lead at 600 F or lead-free between 650-700 F. My concern is not a large tip size but my "dwell time". If my dwell time on each joint is averaging 2 seconds, using a tacky flux then my technique only subjects the leads to thermal stress one time. Use a heat gun with lead-free to improve wetting.

[djravery]

@jkgamm041 I concur! And thanks... I have been SMT soldering for a number of years (I'd date myself, if I said how many years exactly). I completely agree with (and use personally) this technique. Its not the tip size, its the dwell time. Followed closely by the flux type... unf newer no-clean have the tendency to 'flash' off VERY fast due to the chemical makeup of the flux. Organic water soluable fluxes are so much easier to work with eh?

[jkgamm041]

@djravery

You are correct. The large hoof tip creates an immediate "heat bridge" melting the solder into its liquidous phase. Wetting action occurs rapidly. I try to keep my "dwell time" under 2-3 seconds. I recommend trying a no-clean tacky flux.

Clarification please. No-clean fluxes such as the Kester 951 or 959 with low solids

(2-4%) will flash off faster than a high solids no-clean or tack flux but they are still highly effective as long as excessive oxides are not present.

[StinkyCheese9999]

@djravery

Soldering irons exhibit what is known as recovery time. If your temperature is too low or your tip mass too small, your tip will have cooled too much by the last joint because it cannot reheat the tip as fast as it is losing heat. Also note that with use of flux or a board still wet from cleaning, you are heating that too not just the solder and component lead. Additionally I agree with the other factors jkgamm041 mentioned.

[djravery]

@StinkyCheese9999 In my applications, my irons are at the proper temps... however we deal with large thick ground planes and boards that are designed to dissipate heat (ie high intensity LEDs). While we are in the process of trying some new tacky fluxes, the stuff we have used in the past (low solids) flashes off well before the solder reflows. As far as equipment goes, I am using a new Hakko FM-206 for hand sodlering/desoldering and the Hakko FR-803B rework station for fine pitch removal. 

[KeithWasHere1]

@StinkyCheese9999 im glad you posted this..i was thinking about using a copper sewing needle to do some very fine soldering work (Soldering a super super tiny Luxeon Rebel LED)...but im glad you posted this as now after reading your post i dont think it will work.

[StinkyCheese9999]

@KeithWasHere1

Optimal tip shape depends on what you are soldering it to, but basically the ideal tip is one that maximizes contact area to the joint while not being so large it won't fit in the available space. For surface mount soldering this is often a bevel shaped tip but in a pinch if you "had" to make it work and were patient, a sewing needle may or may not get the job done, depends on the mass and surface area of what you're soldering it to since LED itself is low mass.

[yo6ial]

Beautiful soldering, man. Just beautiful.

But the desoldering is the really fun part of it :D



[BlackCaScorpio]

Kinda makes me wish I was still doing that. I started doing that type of soldering my my college classes. Dropped out for other reasons although I was at the top of my class. I was able to solder the smd's and the smr's w/o a magnifying glass. Flux is everything to making soldering easy and clean looking.

[1D0N]

Wow. Very skilled. I tried to replace a simple resistor once, but I have no steady hand. I was also afraid to melt all the "lines" on the PCB and the PCB itself. Now I see you can safely touch it all.

[ku4gw]

What is the clear looking stuff you put on the leads before drag soldering? Is it a type of solder itself or is it a flux?

[SparkysWidgets]

@ku4gw it looks like flux to me, nice technique too!

[jkgamm041]

@15sdobbie

Many feel that hand work is superior. I believe it can go both ways depending on application. SMT uses a controlled profile in its convective or vapor phase reflow. I rely on technique and reading the "wetting" of the solder in its liquidous phase to determine my speed of travel.

The machine has no concept of theory, process, science, metallurgy, wetting, intermetallic bonds, dissolution, latent failure, etc .. Pick your instructor carefully. ( Insist on demonstrations. )

[ElektroHut]

What solder do you use? Kester? What number? Thanks. Superb job really! ;)

[MLink96]

Wow! You make it look so easy! 

[VeXorian1337]

That's quite an amazing job! Props to you for putting so much effort into it. But in the end a soldering robot can do this task in a matter of minutes. Why would you waste so much time soldering SMD? Of course if it's just for personal pleasure, I would understand.

[jkgamm041]

@VeXorian1337

Thank you very much. Automation is a primary function in PCB manufacturing, however, rework, replacement and other applications require the skills of a professionally trained operator/ technician in which the machine alone cannot perform.

What is the cost benefit analysis associated with doing an R & R on an SMD? If I can pull with hot air or low melting alloys and replace quickly, which I can, will the time justify the expense and profit margin or do I buy a replacement?

[HackCausality]

@jkgamm041 There's also lag time. Do you wait four or five days minimum for a replacement, or do you fix it RIGHT NOW so you can go about your business?

[kamgjiku]

perfect



[arsacd]

really really a good job!

[MrCageman]

Very impressive. What temperature is the iron set to? Also curious about the type of flux and solder paste used in the demo.

[tommixoft]

AMAZING!!

[AIexanderHartdegen]

Someone knows how much the temperature's iron is? And the brand/kind of the solder??

[picbuck]

Great vid, really shows what it's all about, thanks!

[SigEpBlue]

I wasn't dropping my jaw until I saw the 160-pin QFP being soldered with an iron. Amazing work and technique you have. This gives me higher confidence to try new soldering methods (I can already do TQFP-32 and SOIC-24 all day), and also to be less fearful of higher-pin-count devices in my designs.

[jkgamm041]

@SigEpBlue

Thank you. The QFP 160 is very easy to drag solder if you have the proper tip, temp, flux and when you pull the hoof tip your pressure must be extremely light and consistent. Your actual speed of travel must also be very consistent. I have (3) techniques that I teach with and all of them result in class 3 consistency. The entire process is very user friendly, as long as one follows the training and applies proper technique.

[heavy6161]

@jkgamm041

Hi,

What is the proper flux to do this? or what is the one you're using here?

Thanks

[Kaulstoessl]

Absolutely amazing. Thanks for the upload!

[deweywsu]

Oh, and I forgot to ask a couple other questions...what is the temp setting you're using, and where can I find info about your classes?

Thanks again

-Josh

[deweywsu]

Hi John. I wanted to say thanks again for the advice on tips you gave a few weeks ago. I hot an FX-951, and you're absolutely correct, it is impressive. I notice something strange - the T15-CF4 is priced at around $10 at many places, whereas the T15-CF3 is around $33 on avg. Is there something really special about the CF3s, or are they just the perfect size for drag soldering these small parts? Thanks again for the help. -Josh

[jkgamm041]

@deweywsu

The Hakko FX 951 for $225. @ 70 watts and its thermal recovery is immediate, yes it is "the" cost effective solution which performs. The CF3's can be $30. - $40. each and if taken care of and tinned, they have a surprisingly long life. The CF3 is my # 1. Drag soldering like no other except for the better JBC's and the user friendly multi-lead sweep technique.

[jkgamm041]

@Chuckskull888

No-clean high solids tacky flux by Chemtronics. Tack fluxes are more agressive and produce excellent wetting.

[Helios924]

That's awesome. Certainly techniques that I would consider using. =]

[jkgamm041]

@Helios924

Thank you. Do you see the technique I use when you lay a piece of solder wire on the leads, step down on it with a hoof or drag tip, the wetting occurs and then you simply sweep off? I did it using an awesome Hakko drag soldering tip.

I learned a very similar technique from a great Master IPC Trainer named Norman Mier of BEST, Inc. He called it the "group method". I altered his technique and created this "one touch" multi lead technique. The ultimate performer. It never fails !

[TheMindOfPat]

Thanks for sharing the video - you make it look easy. :)

I've been looking around for good QFP technique, but I'm a little confused on this. I'm assuming the blue tip tube is solder paste and the yellow tube is flux? If so, I'm having a hard time figuring out where all the solder comes from when you do the swipe at 2:05 :)

May I ask what solder/flux you use? The stuff I've used for SOICs seems to have too much surface tension for QFP work - or maybe I just need better flux application.

[jkgamm041]

@TheMindOfPat

Part 1: I see the term "surface tension". Viewers, many of you will not know what this means.

Let's tell a story about The Mind Of Pat. Pat wants to solder a QFP. He preps with isopropol to promote solderability. Pat then uses the industry standard of a eutectic Sn63 Pb37 Tin / Lead (current best manufacturing practice for Sn Pb).

Pat's Sn63 Pb37 is a Kester 331 Organic Water Soluble. Pat supplements externally with a Kester flux pen 331 which is $4 bucks. Continued ...

[jkgamm041]

@TheMindOfPat

Part 2: regardless of whether Pat uses a Water Sol or a No-Clean with a low solids flux pen of 2-4% solids, pat can achieve excellent wetting.

Flux will stop the base metals from oxidizing while they are being heated to the soldering temp. Flux is a chemical cleaning agent, it removes mild oxides and residues. Flux lowers the surface tension of the solder upon contact, thereby allowing more efficient wetting.

For technical questions, email me: jkgammell@gmail.com

[TheMindOfPat]

@kgamm041 Thanks, you're a great story-teller. ;) I found a #186 flux pen local last week so we'll see how that works, maybe I'll do mail order if all else fails.

By the way, any broad suggestion on where to find soldering training, if I ever have the money to go that route? Didn't see any at the local comm colleges or trade school, but you'd think people have to learn somewhere!

Thanks again for the help and the good videos!

[jkgamm041]

@TheMindOfPat

The majority of community and technical colleges do not offer this training. Unfortunately, many of the IPC Certification Centers do not teach the mandatory fundamentals: wetting forces, solderability, surface tension, chemical reactions, intermetallic bonds, thermal stress, latent failure, techniques for high reliability, i.e., "one touch", specialized multi-lead techniques, etc ...

I create true professionals.

John Gammell, CIT

(612) 205-8609

[Anton338]

This is so pro. Great job mann

[jkgamm041]

@Anton338

Thank you

[deweywsu]

Hi again John. Thanks for the advice on tip part#s. I have found a mid-line Hakko unit, the 936. It is analog, and uses different tips than the 951. Do you have any experience with it? Thanks.

[jkgamm041]

@deweywsu

You would do better with a Hakko FX-951. The 951 tips do amazing work. I cannot see a true temp with analogs. No experience with the 936.

Your goal is "one touch". Repeated exposure to thermal energy (heat) will thermally stress/shock the IC thereby reducing its life (latent failure). You want high reliability.

I could professionally train you and take you to a skill level so high in 5-7 days that you would not even believe the results? Private training & IPC Certifications.

[deweywsu]

Excellent work-Beautiful accuracy. I see you recommended the Weller WESD51. It looks like great low-to-middle end unit. I can't seem to figure out what the exact model # is of the hoof-type tips, similar to the ones you use in this video. I know you have said Weller calls them "single flats", but I can't seem to find any that match yous. Can you recommend a good tip for the WESD51 that I can use on a 100-TQFP chip? Would it be their ETDD? How about for the Hakko you recommend? Thanks!

[jkgamm041]

@deweywsu

Thank you. I don't recall the part # on the Weller Single Flat that resembles a hoof tip. The FX-951 will blow away the Weller WESD51.

I like the Hakko FX-951 which retails at $250. and tips are $10. each and have 100 microns more of plating compared to the other brands. Recommended tips: T15-D16 1/16" chisel tip, T15-D24 1/8" chisel tip, T15-CF3 drag soldering tip, T15-JL02 Bent Extended Sharp Conical. The FX-951 is a very high performance unit but then so is the Metcal MX 5010.

[jkgamm041]

@deweywsu

This post will not let me embed the link. Google Stanley Supply Services. Enter a search for the following and follow the link: Part No. 112-658 3/16" Single Flat.

Any time that you viewers want a "hoof tip", go to the local stores that sell the Weller, Hakko, Metcal, Pace or whatever brand you have and ask them to show you the tips that look like a medium to large hoof.

For a hassle free experience use Stanley. TRUST ME ON THIS ! To many difficulties with Techni-Tool.

[LauxHawk]

Great now how the heck am I going to get an ATMega 2560 on a perfboard? Ah am I really going to have to make a PCB....

[obiwankenobi28]

This is very nice professional work man thanks for posting I would recommend your work for many such reoworks and resolders, thanks again man.

[jkgamm041]

@obiwankenobi28

Thank you. When I train our students in the lab at Dakota County Technical College in Rosemount, MN, I place extremely high emphasis on quality, efficiency and consistency for high reliability. "One touch" techniques promote this reliability.

This presents numerous benefits to electronic manufacturers who hire the best students as they are meticulously trained by me to achieve Class 3 consistency.

[AstAMoore]

Excellent. As always.

[jkgamm041]

Thank you for your support and encouragement.