Added: 1 year ago
From: EricTheCarGuy
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  • Eric! You have some outstanding videos man...all for free!!! One could not ask for more. Thank you so much for posting these for the occasional DIYer. Wish you all the best...

  • Eric, great video and presentation, your are a natural. We are Igralub/GWR and make brake service products for all levels of this industry, from OEM to repair shops. See GWRauto . com . I'd like to recommend you replace the spring hardware during brake service, heat does fatigue them. Likewise when you put hdw back in the caliper, be sure lube between them and the metal of the caliper (Coupled Resonance) with our Ceramlub. Please give me a call, I'd like to talk. Gary 1 (800) 266-4497

  • "gook" is that a prof. term? LOL i kid. Love the show. And the hose on hose.

  • Do I have to get new wheel bearings when I replace rear rotors on a 95 vw golf 2.0

  • Rent one, $90 deposit at autozone. Get 100% back.

  • Comment removed

  • @hovermanification Same to you.

  • @hovermanification Thank you. Good luck in school the world needs more qualified technicians.

  • Hi Erick, I saw you block the flow with the flier, what is the reason why you dont want to push the brake fluid back to the line? thxxx

  • @sakitlikod1 I have seen instances where that damaged the master cylinder. I also don't do it so that I don't overflow the master causing brake fluid to spill out the top as brake fluid will ruin paint.

  • were you used that special tool could you use an old brake pad and the tool that compresses it or do you have to have a special tool to turn it?

  • @nico27004 No you have to turn the type of caliper piston that is used for the parking brake assembly.

  • gumd up with guck 

  • that looks like a castle nut with only 2 nobs

  • What I don't understand is how the rear caliper of the 2002 Taurus is able to move out by rotating ,even though the pads have edges that are aligned with the notches in the caliper pistons. Since the pads are in one position (except for the in and out movement) I would assume this would prevent the caliper from turning out as long as these edges are seated in the caliper notches.

  • @dappawap The caliper piston does not rotate as it moves outward, it's actually a ratcheting mechanism that keeps the piston close to the pads for applying the parking brake. The only time it needs to be rotated is when you retract the piston however it needs to be held in place by the locating pin on the pad so that it does NOT rotate during normal operation.

  • @EricTheCarGuy Thanks. I kind of figured it out on my own today, although I would really like to see the insides of that rachet mechanism to see how it works.

    PS You absolutely must open the bleeder to be able to push that piston in (unless you have very powerful hands.)

  • Hoes on hoes. I like the sound of that.

  • what happens if u force fluid back into the cylinder

  • @pinoypower247 You can damage it and you would then need to replace the master cylinder.

  • @EricTheCarGuy hi one question if the ruber bulb get twisted or is old and riped, can it cause a brake fluid leak on it? or leak just happen when the bleed holes are cover with dust like the one you fix with a pick? because i have a honda civic 1990 and some times the break fluid go fast i just wanna learn about please thank you

  • @mekoskitecho Damage to the dust boot will not cause it to leak but it will allow contaminants to get further into the caliper which could damage it.

  • @EricTheCarGuy THANK YOU SO MUCH

  • Best most helpful videos. Thanks from a total non mechanic.

  • @chickenbeek Thank you, I appreciate your comment.

  • Eric, this series really helped me out. I've done work on a few sets of front disks but no rears. The demo of the proper technique on retracting pistons that are also used by the handbrake was invaluable. Thanks!

  • @davey820051 Glad to help, thanks for taking the time to comment.

  • @EricTheCarGuy What I don't understand is how the rear caliper of the 2002 Taurus is able to move out by rotating ,even though the pads have edges that are aligned with the notches in the caliper pistons. Since the pads are in one position (except for the in and out movement) I would assume this would prevent the caliper from turning out as long as these edges are seated in the caliper notches.

  • ive seen people use different lubes. some people using silcone, some using threadlocking compound, some using copper grease. which are the correct ones to use and on what?

  • @raikkonen85 The correct lubricants are the ones used in this video. It is VERY important you use these lubricants in the locations shown in the video or you may seize the caliper up especially if you use regular grease or anti-seize on the caliper pins.

  • Why not compress the caliper piston without opening the bleeder valve and have brake fluid return to the master cylinder (as long as it is not topped off)?  Therefore there is no chance of adding air to the system.

  • @aaronac8 If you do it this way there is no chance of introducing air into the system. If you force fluid back into the master you run the risk of damaging the seals in the master, I've seen it more than once where a simple brake job turned into a brake job and a master cylinder as a result of that practice. I strongly recommend against forcing fluid back into the master as a result of those experiences.

  • Can you do a quick tip video on how to make your own "brake fluid recovery reservoir"? Thanks.

  • @aaronac8 That's a good idea, next time I get the chance I will.

  • Do you need brake fluid in your "brake fluid recovery reservoir" before opening the bleeder valve and retracting the piston?

  • @aaronac8 Not really but it helps prevent air from being drawn back into the brake system.

  • thanks for the vid Eric. for hondas i just use the flat head screw driver use the edge and turning it. But for other car like VW Jetta you needed that SST. pushing and turning at the same time.

  • hey eric! where do you buy all those different kind of hoses that u have?

  • @davidzzz94 You can find them at the hardware store or at the aquarium store. I recommend the hardware store as it's cheeper there. The other piece of hose is just a piece of vacuum line.

  • Hoes on hoes :D

  • Thanks for the videos Eric :)

  • @1986r Thanks for your comment.

  • @ericthecarguy my bad i meant to put a "?" mark on that post... are there any situations where one of the universal bendix squares won't work? I.E some euro-monstrosity with a whirly slot?

  • @shaneunderwood Actually Mazdas come to mind as they have a different system where you have to remove an access in the back of the caliper to turn the piston in. Lots of different rear caliper designs not every method works for every one.

  • or just use a bendix square...

  • @shaneunderwood You could use that too. Thanks for your input.

  • Eric, Great video. My buddy and I already changed our rear brakes but compressed the cylinder back in verses using the turning tool. Looking at it now it does have the parking brake line back there. Am I going to have a problem and should I go back and re-turn the cylinder back in. Thanks.

  • @md4babes Not all rear calipers need to be turned in, in fact if you were able to just push yours in I'm sure that it's OK since that normally that is not possible with they type of caliper that has the parking brake as part of the caliper assembly.

  • Hi, Eric. Thanks for the info. very clear video(HD) compare to other I watched. Now I can try to do it on my Corolla and Camry. Appreciated.

  • @BigDave331 Your welcome. Good luck with those brakes and thanks for the comment.

  • Never mind my last post thx so much :) got your msg ;) you are my HERO!! :P

  • Heyy, I recently did my rear brakes on my integra - and forgot to bring my piston turning tool from my shop. So, this is what I did to make it work out! I got a large cold chisel with a hex shaft. I put it in the notches of my piston - and used a wrench to turn and depress the piston! It worked quite well :-) Eric, your modded piston turning tool is a great idea! Thanks lol :-)

  • @acatinca Yea, that sounds like it would work great, thanks for your suggestion and comment.

  • Very helpful. Autozone has the piston return tool for rent, much easier then attempting to use anything else. Watch video, get tool, 20 minutes. Any other method is 4 hours! Trust me

  • Hey Eric Thx for the "HowTo" nowI have just one question for you ^^ what is the name of the tool you use to turn the Zylinder (?!) in... I unfortunately don t have the possibillity to weld :( so i can t rebuild your nice gadget ... And i already had so much stress with the stupid breaks ... Wish i knew befor that you made a guide about that :/ ..

    So whats the name of the tool and or maybe ^^ Do you know any other way i could try ;)

    thx a lot :)

  • @DJYIC It's just a rear caliper compression tool, you can borrow them from most auto parts stores and will work just fine so you won't need to make one like the one I used. Thanks for the comment.

  • @EricTheCarGuy

    Now i Have the problem that my (stupid) bleeder is completely rusted tight to the Caliper .. rust suxx^^ I seriously have no idea what i can do to get that thing off ... i ll try to sand the caliper down later on at least there where the bleeder is stuck in :( .. do you by any chance make a video in which you show how to bleed breaks? Since i kind of see it comeing that i ll have to refurbish or maybe even replace the whole Caliper :(...

  • Great video, thanks again!

  • @elbelcho Thank you for the great comment.

  • dude!!! won't go into detail, but thanks to you and this video I got a date with a super cute girl! she came to my place and made tacos for dinner. poor girls 91 prelude rear brakes we soooo worn out they'd get red hot while driving down the road not to mention the grinding noises drove her insane. Thanks E.T.B.A.M.F.C.G!

  • @Spiegel420 This is probably my favorite comment of all time, seriously good luck with that.

  • and also chief, i understand if you move the caliper piston back in, with your drain setup, no air will enter the system, but you took , 7:38, the bleeder valve completely off ! . Wouldnt that allow air into the sytem even if its just the bottom end of the line/hose ???

  • @therockkkkher The reason I crimp the hose is to help prevent air from getting into the system, think when you take a drinking straw from your drink with your finger over the end and pick it up out of the glass, the drink stays in the straw and the liquid doesn't come out, the same will work for air here. It also helps prevent any fluid from being forced back in the opposite direction.

  • @EricTheCarGuy "fluid stays like a straw" , dang brotha you got it covered both ways then, wow, thats impressive !!! rock on !!!

  • @therockkkkher Indeed, thanks.

  • hey eric my man, why do you pinch / close the brake line/hose so many inches from the caliper ??? is there some reason you pinch/close it there or is there no precise place to pinch/close it as long as its pinched/closed/stopped ???

  • @therockkkkher I dont have a preferred location to crimp the hose, I just look for a place that is easy to get to.

  • thank you thank you thank you

    

  • @wodie08 Your welcome

  • Excellent... )parts 1, 2 & 3,as well as your front brake job video. I will be attempting to replace all four brakes and rotors on my 1998 honda accord this week.. I now feel confident thanks to your superb video... made simple for simpletons like myself. Thanks so much.

  • @MeDNKD Well thanks for the great comment and best of luck with the job. Let me know how it turns out.

  • hi eric whats up man i have a question for you hope you can help me i just changed the front struts on a 1994 honda civic and now im all done but it sound like the spring is rubbing on somthing it even looks like the spring went back on kinda bowed out a little what causes that and how can i fix it please help me please

  • @aristas30002000 Sometimes when you reinstall the springs sometimes the rubber on the upper strut mount gets out of place. You can see a "witness" mark where the spring used to sit in it's rubber mount, you need to try and get it back there if you can after installing the new strut. See if this is the case, if not, let me know.

  • harbor freight makes this cool tool that helps move the piston back in. I think it was like 3.99. Looks like a big cube that accepts a 3/8th's ratchet end.

  • @kai21787 Cool, I'll have to check that out.

  • Much better demonstration and explained clearly, unlike some videos her.

    Keep up the good work Eric.

    Marty.

  • @biddymagee Thank you very much for that, glad you liked it.

  • Comment removed

  • wait a second..you didnt move at all! LOL!!!

  • @gjmvi Special elven magic.

  • Awesome video Eric, excellent useful information as always. I had no idea some rear calipers worked that way, and I learned something today. Thanks!

  • @KNTRIDER Glad I could help, thanks for the comment.

  • I like that tool you made... brilliant !

  • @CravinMorehead420 It works very well, better than the one I bought. :)

  • bamf your modded tools are always bad ass

  • @Spiegel420 Thank you! I think I'm going to do a video on tools at some point.

  • bamf your modded tools are always bad ass

  • 5 Stars Eric, fantastic

  • bamf

  • You got some good stuff in your videos Eric....I do brakes almost everyday and by watching your videos i always learn something new..thanks for the info..

  • @MrHvm1985 Thanks for that comment. I learn stuff all the time too like yesterday when I said "this brake job is going to be easy", after an hour I learned otherwise.

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