There is nothing wrong with the video itself. They guy is explaining what to look for in a good bolt. He's right about what he says as well. The title bills it as "how to use existing bolts" He isn't telling you how to use them.
tried the system and it works well.personally though i prefer to use self fabricated quickdraws to slings. with this i would probably run cam as a redundant aswel as the 2 bolts. expert village could make this more clear. they make it sound dangerousally simple that if a novice was watching they would think it was a case of just cliping and descending. risk asssesment a little sparse but not the sorst video. good guy!!
the ideal situation is never have fabric rub on fabric or metal clang against metal.
a rope rubbing on a sling anchor can heat the sling until it melts and breaks. so it's always better having the rope running through something metal (eg carabiner) instead.
metal on metal is bad as it can cause small internal stress fractures (especially aluminium) or external scratches that can damage fabric gear (eg slings and harnesses)
the type of bolted anchors used in this video have a hanger with a sharp edge. using a carabiner, like in the video, is better than using a sling, because the sling can be cut by the sharp edge of the hanger. not all bolts have a sharp edge. some use chain links. some have a long bolt bent into a U shape. with both ends into the rock. some have the end of a bolt bent over to form a circle. all these anchors are rounded and smooth, so will not damage the sling.
C'mon man... these are as bad as the last "expertvillage" videos. If you are going to show it show it all. Be anchored while setting it up. Show clipping into BOTH bolts for an actual anchor set up (equalized, redundant, and so on), and put the hardware on the rope end of the slings because sure as shit.... someone is gonna watch this and go set their anchor up JUST LIKE THAT! Please please do these videos like someon's life depends on it. This is not a finished anchor folks. Be aware!
+1... this is a horrible video and better off not watching it. Expert Village videos in general are poorly done and sub par at best. Videos like these give the impression that Expert Village is merely trying to take advantage of people with no knowledge of what they're watching and will consider almost anyone a so called "expert".
was just thinking the same thing.. Just watched another "expert" village instructional vid on building anchors and the guy refers to the "sarene" system yet has the anchor already set up... WTF... show from step one to the finished system.
Check out the j-arms frictionless descender. Search for j-arms on You Tube. This device is unreal. There is nothing like on the market today. There is always an easier solution.
this video is dangerous. please understand that this is nothing like proper anchoring and is completely unsafe.
erjohn123 3 weeks ago
This is not a good video. He doesn't use any redundancy; it's nice to have backup if one thing fails.
tyrellmartinez 5 months ago
well....thats one way to make yourself look like an idiot in the climbing community
princesskatiecakes 8 months ago
wow really? you didnt explain how to thread the rope through, and a possible safety rope. you are not giving proper and safe information
gbwarner 10 months ago
im a novice.. your videos are poor and i dont wanna go out there and kill my self. make better vids!
MrMattaoe 11 months ago
Like every one else said. And although expansion bolts may work fine in granite etc. They are certain death in sand stone.
CarbonPrey 1 year ago
Thaha!!!
If you're climbing with only one bolt all the time, it's a f*ckin' wounder that you can stand on the top of the wall an learn sth like this!!!
Maybe you guys should write sth like "Don't try this at home" at the end ;D
Greets from the eastern Alps!
Hubi1234567890 1 year ago
Another thing you want to remember is to sit as close to the edge of the cliff as possible, without anchoring yourself in to anything.
Glasya666 1 year ago
WOW!! That guy is a climbing instructor?? WTF
lovinlife4ever 1 year ago
What a pointless video
coralnerd 1 year ago
There is nothing wrong with the video itself. They guy is explaining what to look for in a good bolt. He's right about what he says as well. The title bills it as "how to use existing bolts" He isn't telling you how to use them.
F1X0R121 2 years ago
I see the author has removed a couple of comments.
Why don't they remove this whole dangerous video?
callmeJorn 2 years ago
tried the system and it works well.personally though i prefer to use self fabricated quickdraws to slings. with this i would probably run cam as a redundant aswel as the 2 bolts. expert village could make this more clear. they make it sound dangerousally simple that if a novice was watching they would think it was a case of just cliping and descending. risk asssesment a little sparse but not the sorst video. good guy!!
kezz1050 2 years ago
So if I use that anchor to climb and the bolt fails what happens?
best0049 2 years ago
Usually you would do the same thing he did to the other side anchor, and tie off to the connection from the 2 runners.
kcirtapegur 2 years ago
You would die.
yogonu 2 years ago
you die
karlnz70kg 2 years ago
Comment removed
best0049 2 years ago
Everyone has always told me NEVER hook metal to metal (i.e beaner to bolt) but i see people doing it all over the internet.
Whats the deal?
NexusRebellion 2 years ago
just dont do it. bad for the gear.
sometimehuh 2 years ago
the ideal situation is never have fabric rub on fabric or metal clang against metal.
a rope rubbing on a sling anchor can heat the sling until it melts and breaks. so it's always better having the rope running through something metal (eg carabiner) instead.
metal on metal is bad as it can cause small internal stress fractures (especially aluminium) or external scratches that can damage fabric gear (eg slings and harnesses)
karlnz70kg 2 years ago
Comment removed
karlnz70kg 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
the type of bolted anchors used in this video have a hanger with a sharp edge. using a carabiner, like in the video, is better than using a sling, because the sling can be cut by the sharp edge of the hanger. not all bolts have a sharp edge. some use chain links. some have a long bolt bent into a U shape. with both ends into the rock. some have the end of a bolt bent over to form a circle. all these anchors are rounded and smooth, so will not damage the sling.
karlnz70kg 2 years ago
C'mon man... these are as bad as the last "expertvillage" videos. If you are going to show it show it all. Be anchored while setting it up. Show clipping into BOTH bolts for an actual anchor set up (equalized, redundant, and so on), and put the hardware on the rope end of the slings because sure as shit.... someone is gonna watch this and go set their anchor up JUST LIKE THAT! Please please do these videos like someon's life depends on it. This is not a finished anchor folks. Be aware!
slickrock5065 2 years ago 25
+1... this is a horrible video and better off not watching it. Expert Village videos in general are poorly done and sub par at best. Videos like these give the impression that Expert Village is merely trying to take advantage of people with no knowledge of what they're watching and will consider almost anyone a so called "expert".
sztrimzzz 2 years ago 12
was just thinking the same thing.. Just watched another "expert" village instructional vid on building anchors and the guy refers to the "sarene" system yet has the anchor already set up... WTF... show from step one to the finished system.
wasabitobiko 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Check out the j-arms frictionless descender. Search for j-arms on You Tube. This device is unreal. There is nothing like on the market today. There is always an easier solution.
frictionless1 3 years ago