I have a a nearly 50 year old horn...and the first valve is starting to feel scratchy and almost has the texture of a toothbrush brushed across metal (weird description..) I've oiled it but it hasnt helped a whole lot? what could be wrong with it?
@klo1024 It sounds like your most likely culprits are either buildup within the rotor casing or some trapped foriegn material. In any case, the rotor will have to be removed, which is something that you should have a professional repairman do. It's possible that they'll suggest a cleaning of the entire instrument. A thorough cleaning is something you should have done to brass instruments every 9-12 months, on average.
I would recommend that you bring the instrument to your local repair shop. Stuck rotors can be a quick, cheap fix, or it can indicate a deeper problem.
Who told you once or few times every year. That's not true at all. End play in the rotor is cause by under oiling the rotors. Not to mention the fact that you never drop oil in the slide causing the oil to contact the ferrule. Always drop straight down the tube avoiding contact. That prevents grease from enterting the valve Which can cause the valves to over Lapp themselves increasing the space in the valve can allowing air to escape and fill that void.
@bradhorn14 : Mfgrs web sites. Alexander: oil inner valves only if the valves stick. Schmidt: oil bearings every 4 weeks - don't use too much otherwise it will migrate to side of rotors and gum them up. Conn: oil on sides of rotor is to prevent corrosion only. Conn Elkhart: oil bearings every 2-3 mos; sides of rotors never (Elkhart from: "How to Care for Your Instrument," c 1942).
@Allordis No way... I repair horns and perform custom work on instruments for a living. Yes, the Manufacturer might offer suggestions, but each horn player is different. Their PH balance, amount of use and other variables require a non-blanket style of lubrication on a horn. The bearing on a Schmidt horn have nothing to do with the specific rotor or the bearing surfaces...its a completely different mechanism.
2. Don't lift by bell edge - thinnest and most delicate part
3. Oil rotor bearings; use rotor or light machine oil
4. Way too much valve oil, way too often. A drop on each rotor a few times a year is enough. Very different from a piston valve.
When you oil as described, the oil dissolves the slide grease. Resulting gunk makes the valves sluggish. Instead of adding even more, clean this gunk out of the valves, then follow manufacturer's instructions.
Also, the Pro-level 8D is definitely not a cheap horn for beginners--they list for around $5,700. I'm not sure I'd even recommend the Yamaha 567 (MSRP of $4,421), either. Beginners/parents of beginners should talk to the band director and use a school horn until they're ready to commit to the instrument and step up to a professional model.
Jupiter is an up and coming line, but I wouldn't put one in the hands of my students just yet.
I'm confused... this "highly-qualified" technician talks at 3:10 about always depressing the lever while adjusting the slides, but at 0:48, he pulls out the third valve slide without depressing the third lever.
And isn't the purpose of lubricating slides and rotors to reduce friction and keep the bearings from wearing? Why would you wait until they're dry and corroded before performing preventive maintenance?
Double French Horns prices will depend on brand and finish material (brass lacquer, silver or nickel). New brand name double horns start around $2000 and go up from there. PM has a price-match guarantee and provides a free 1 year repair warranty with every instrument purchase. So please keep us in mind. Thanks!
Two of the most highly regarded double horn brands are Conn (model 8D) and Yamaha (model YHR-567). Another brand that schools are beginning to recommend, and is an excellent value, is the Jupiter brand (model 852L).
I have a a nearly 50 year old horn...and the first valve is starting to feel scratchy and almost has the texture of a toothbrush brushed across metal (weird description..) I've oiled it but it hasnt helped a whole lot? what could be wrong with it?
klo1024 1 year ago
@klo1024 It sounds like your most likely culprits are either buildup within the rotor casing or some trapped foriegn material. In any case, the rotor will have to be removed, which is something that you should have a professional repairman do. It's possible that they'll suggest a cleaning of the entire instrument. A thorough cleaning is something you should have done to brass instruments every 9-12 months, on average.
pmmusiccenter 1 year ago
Hi PMUSICCENTER,
What if the valves are stuck and can't be pressed. How can a person fix that? Please let me know, thanks
Huskyowner2007 1 year ago
@Huskyowner2007
I would recommend that you bring the instrument to your local repair shop. Stuck rotors can be a quick, cheap fix, or it can indicate a deeper problem.
pmmusiccenter 1 year ago
@pmmusiccenter Thanks I already fixed it. It just needed a WD 4 remove rusted oil
Huskyowner2007 1 year ago
Who told you once or few times every year. That's not true at all. End play in the rotor is cause by under oiling the rotors. Not to mention the fact that you never drop oil in the slide causing the oil to contact the ferrule. Always drop straight down the tube avoiding contact. That prevents grease from enterting the valve Which can cause the valves to over Lapp themselves increasing the space in the valve can allowing air to escape and fill that void.
bradhorn14 1 year ago
@bradhorn14 : Mfgrs web sites. Alexander: oil inner valves only if the valves stick. Schmidt: oil bearings every 4 weeks - don't use too much otherwise it will migrate to side of rotors and gum them up. Conn: oil on sides of rotor is to prevent corrosion only. Conn Elkhart: oil bearings every 2-3 mos; sides of rotors never (Elkhart from: "How to Care for Your Instrument," c 1942).
Allordis 1 year ago
@Allordis No way... I repair horns and perform custom work on instruments for a living. Yes, the Manufacturer might offer suggestions, but each horn player is different. Their PH balance, amount of use and other variables require a non-blanket style of lubrication on a horn. The bearing on a Schmidt horn have nothing to do with the specific rotor or the bearing surfaces...its a completely different mechanism.
bradhorn14 1 year ago
1. Work on padded surface
2. Don't lift by bell edge - thinnest and most delicate part
3. Oil rotor bearings; use rotor or light machine oil
4. Way too much valve oil, way too often. A drop on each rotor a few times a year is enough. Very different from a piston valve.
When you oil as described, the oil dissolves the slide grease. Resulting gunk makes the valves sluggish. Instead of adding even more, clean this gunk out of the valves, then follow manufacturer's instructions.
Allordis 1 year ago
Also, the Pro-level 8D is definitely not a cheap horn for beginners--they list for around $5,700. I'm not sure I'd even recommend the Yamaha 567 (MSRP of $4,421), either. Beginners/parents of beginners should talk to the band director and use a school horn until they're ready to commit to the instrument and step up to a professional model.
Jupiter is an up and coming line, but I wouldn't put one in the hands of my students just yet.
jdawg409 1 year ago
@jdawg409 Thanks for your comments and feedback. We agree that band directors and private teachers should be involved in the purchase decision.
pmmusiccenter 1 year ago
I'm confused... this "highly-qualified" technician talks at 3:10 about always depressing the lever while adjusting the slides, but at 0:48, he pulls out the third valve slide without depressing the third lever.
And isn't the purpose of lubricating slides and rotors to reduce friction and keep the bearings from wearing? Why would you wait until they're dry and corroded before performing preventive maintenance?
jdawg409 1 year ago
Hi Pm I want to buy a double french horn in a month or so. Do you know what the descent price of a French horn is? Please let know, thanks.
Huskyowner2007 2 years ago
Double French Horns prices will depend on brand and finish material (brass lacquer, silver or nickel). New brand name double horns start around $2000 and go up from there. PM has a price-match guarantee and provides a free 1 year repair warranty with every instrument purchase. So please keep us in mind. Thanks!
pmmusiccenter 2 years ago
@pmmusiccenter what's the best brand and the cheapest for a beginner?
Huskyowner2007 2 years ago
Two of the most highly regarded double horn brands are Conn (model 8D) and Yamaha (model YHR-567). Another brand that schools are beginning to recommend, and is an excellent value, is the Jupiter brand (model 852L).
pmmusiccenter 2 years ago