Thank you very much. No, those caps charged up in a matter of minutes...while I was hooking up the rest of the circuit and getting the cam ready to shoot. I didn't do a longevity test on this set-up as I was so astonished that it worked, I wanted to get the video on youtube right away. I now use my 650 farad boostcap and it will light up for quite a while.
@Pirate88179 That's incredible. I want to explore this, because given what you have shown, and said, I see no reason you can't build an inexpensive cap dump to a 3.6 volt li-ion. A time delay circuit, and collect that energy perpetually. It's not a ton of energy, but hey... its free.
Thanks a lot. If you have ever seen my EB scope shots video you can see large spikes. I found that these supercaps capture these spikes where a battery does not. So, I can charge a 2.7 volt super cap fully even though the EB puts out about 1.9 volts. It was the high spikes that are captured.
@Pirate88179 ... right... I was thinking, for about $24 you can buy (10) 2.7V 10F supercaps, ran in a parallel circuit of 5 in series, you'd have enough volts (5 x 2.7 = 13.5v), and my math says you'd have 2F, with each series leg, so a total of a 4F/13.5V dump each time. 24 hours a day. Now, in your video, you just plugged it in and let it go. Imagine if if charged a 12v battery via the caps, 24hrs a day, and all you asked from it was light for 1-3 hours per day. I think it'd work nice.
I got questions out the waso.....Suppose you had some large pvc pipes and they were capped on the ends....and were filled with viniger and salt and sand and cotton two beside each other with poles connecting them....would that create a mega charge?
Bill, has anyone managed to connect several Earth Cells in series or parallel, or does it "not work like that". Thanks. Sorry for an "old question" , but I have not found an answer anywhere.
Yes, and no. Set-ups like mine can only be connected together if they are isolated from one another, there-by making it a purely galvanic device because the telluric currents are then blocked. Now, a true earth battery like the Stubblefield coil can be connected together.
@Pirate88179 Very interesting. Due to my igonorance on the subject, perhaps.. I almost see a conflict in statements. The more I look at a Stubblefield, the more I see, just that, a galvanic battery. A crude and simple one at that, subject to corrosion if nickel wire is not substituted in. They work on a countertop, they work in the dirt... I don't see how the "earth" plays any factor beyond replenishing the moisture level, really.
Yes, the coils work on a table but then you get corrosion like you said. When placed in the ground properly, they last for years and years according to Stubblefield himself. Also, the power is much higher in the ground. He was getting a lot of amps and you can't do that on a table.
@Pirate88179 That's very interesting indeed. So you consider these telluric? I have some interesting polymer rag by 3M, 90k threads per inch, polymer based. I wonder if these polymer lint free shop rags, combined with nickel wire (and iron wire - rebar tie wire, or copper wire for the other electrode) might assist in making a unit that basically, would not suffer corrosion or degregation much at all.
@Pirate88179 what would happen if you made that same battery and added a coil from a car? and then a condenser unit to decrease the voltage to 120 would you have enough to run your house?
There you go. also, those camera boards come with an industrial AA bat. that is hardly drained at all and will last a long time. best of luck to you and enjoy this circuit.
Hi, Bill. The earth batteries I usually see are the typical zinc and copper set ups. Where can I find more info on the carbon rod type you are using? Very interesting things you are doing there. Keep it up, I just subscribed to your channel :)
Thank you. I like carbon because it has a higher output and does not break down...yet at least. On Overunitydotcom (use a . instead of "dot") in the Stubblefield topic area you can learn more about what has been done and why we did it.
that's very impressive bill. don't suppose the earth will "run out"!!! nice. Do these fuji cameras have an IC based joule thief circuit inside? Or is it just the Trigger Trans your needing, as in Simple SEC. Seems like "Fuji guts" is popular nowadays. Is it all about the IC being more capable than previously devised home-made JT-like circuits? As cool as it all is, it's starting to get a bit "dependant" and less homebrew these days (or maybe I'm way off here!)
Thanks. The Fuji's just use a transistor and a very compact little transformer. No ic's at all. Some use the trigger coil but I never have. This was done a while ago and I can get better results using a large toroid that I hand wound myself...you can get over 700 volts this way. The Fuji is a great little circuit as you can get them for free as the photo places just throw them out after removing the film.
@Pirate88179 oh i see, save time, recycle, but no "reliance" - I like! Your the man, will be watching! I love how you incorporate the Earth batteries. It means a lot more to me, at the end of the day we are talking milliamps, in any scenario, and if it comes from the wall, why spend money on circuits, caps, etc. to save milliamps (ROI?!?) - why not use a solar cell, thermocouple or earth cell... makes a lot of sense - esp. to us who have cabins offgrid
@Pirate88179 Do you have a video of the toroid? Do you mean a large bifilar toroid or does it have a primary wind and a step up wind of many more turns?. I have this very rigid (not spongey) large foam toroid. It's about 12" diameter and about 1.5" diameter on the core, so about 10.5" inner diameter. I've been thinking of making some sort of air core toroid from it. It's for floral wreaths I think, but is round, a perfect toroid shape.
Yes, see my video called something like.."Pirate's Lidmotor Jeanna's Light Replication" No, not bifilar on that one. It has a base coil, a collector coil and a pick-up coil all on the same toroid. Uses a 3 3/8" diameter ferrite toroid of very high permeability. (Very important) You might be able to make a large air core from that...the frequency would be pretty high I imagine. If you do that, let me know how it goes.
@Pirate88179 Cool. Did that circuit get wired up as an inverter, basically? I one wound an inverter circuit that drove 15 watt fluoro's at the 20 watt level, from a 12v battery. It worked, but... it wasn't real efficient, and I never did figure out how to warm up the electrodes, so there was always plasma, it blackened the straight tube ends real quick. I often wondered if I had of tapped my high voltage coil at a point, perhaps i could have "momentarily" done a heatup.
Everything is posted over at overunitydotcom (replace the "dot" with a ".") in the joule thief topic. Some good info on the Fuji to get started is on josepinodotcom. Join in the fun. We have a blast working with these things. It is a long topic but very good info there. When at overunity, make sure to say hello to me. If I can help you in any way, I will try to do so.
You have a low voltage (earth) battery, stepped up, and capacitors for starting current. Supercap? Is that a brand name? Those are just standard capacitors. It takes very little current to run a flourescent tube. I have lit one in my hand with no wires, just simply RF energy. Interesting experiment but this is basic electronics 101.
Well, you are almost right. Those caps are indeed supercaps and are pretty advanced electronic devices. It is a type of cap not a brand name. Those caps are 10 Farad each, yes Farad not pico farad. My big cap, used in my other videos, is 650 Farads and that is called a boost cap. You do not need a starting current when lighting tubes at high voltage and high freq. Supercaps capture the high spikes emitted from the ground electrodes. You can see these on the scope shots.
Hello everyone! i watch the video and it seems to me that it is very interesting. i feel that maybe i can do work and use this type of producing energy in my remote area. some how i'm not really expert to do this technical matter but it look like i can do it. does anyone could send me a schematic drawing / wiring diagram as in above videos and specific details of materials to be used through my email ( arlanqat1@gmail.com ). thanks for sharing your knowledge.
No offense. How nice to see some super diagram of this device, the important thing is the amperage on if moreover, illuminates nothing but the low intensity he has, and nothing else, it simply is radiant energy that has no point going to the amp. .. A greeting and do not be mad but I always see these videos and I'll explain it in half, Aca low light and is not showing the operation or the explanation of the circuit and it does what it does ...
I appreciate your comments but you are not correct. In the side bar, I gave the location of every circuit that we have on these devices as well as explanations on how they work and other, even better, circuits. You may think the light level is low but consider that it costs nothing to obtain. To try to explain all of this in one video is impossible that is why we have over 12,000 posts on our Joule Thief topic at overunitydotcom. Check it out, all info is there.
1. I have not seen any evidence of corrosion thus far.
2. Yes, the Fuji is designed to use with an AA bat.
3. You can hand wind your own joule thief circuit and get better results. Jeanna now gets over 2,000 volts with her large JT circuits.
See lasersaber (Youtube name) videos on here. His system has surpassed my output. He is getting over 100 mA's now. He can run all sorts of stuff with his without any caps.
No, these are just 2 regular supercaps. They contain no electrolyte like the hybrid Bcaps do. I didn't get that bcap until a while after I made this series of the videos.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate your comment. Anyone can replicate this for not a lot of money. I am only one of many working on this type of energy research and all of the information is on Overunitydotcom. (replace the dot with a . )
I originally purchased a 1" diameter X 18" long carbon rod from a company called Airgas. They are on the net and also have a local store here. (Welding supply) These are gouging rods, pure carbon, nothing else, not coated. After a few experiments were I could not get deep enough due to ground conditions, I cut the rod in half so I now have 2 9" long x 1" diameter rods. It cost about $20.00.
The circuits are at Overunitydotcom in the Joule Thief topic area. I also have another topic at the Joule thief diagrams area that has all of the schematics.
I don't really know. I never timed it using just these two 10F supercaps. I now am using a 650 farad supercap in these type of experiments so I am sure it will run longer than this set-up would. Some folks in our group can run a cfl on an AA battery for over 14 hours so I guess this might be something close to that, but i have never tested it.
Intersting stuff I went into the garden banged 3 foot galzaised steel bar at N 30 inch into ground 18 inch 1 inch dia copper pipe at S 12 inch into ground strung 24 foot of wire longest I had, Volt reading was 1.040.Something to persue here. John
Thank you. That is a good reading you have there. If you make a joule thief circuit, that is enough voltage to light an ultrabright LED, maybe even more than one depending on your mA's output. Nice work.
Thank you. Go to Overunitydotcom and check out the joule thief topic. It is about 800 pages now but I also made a locked topic just for photos and schematics called the Joule thief diagrams topic. Everything you would ever want to know about the joule thief is there. Let me know if you need any help.
Let me know if you test two rods in a drop of water how much voltage is produced. If you use a carbon rod and a silicon rod it will be better, but I know it's hard to find monocristalline silicon .
Carbon is pure, graphite is made from carbon and is recrystallized during the process. (graphitization) Carbon gives you all of the properties of carbon, graphite has different properties. Different structure. I can get decent voltage with 2 carbon rods in totally dry ground with proper alignment. Not a big difference between the two materials but I wanted the properties of pure carbon for this.
yes, I saw it from different pieces of graphite, they give me different voltages, I don't reach 2 volts from every cell, but recently I used a magnete (iron and oxygen) and the monocristalline silicon I have, so I see it works the same with pure water. Let me know how much your pure carbon rods are conductive and what happens if you put them with a proper alignment in a drop of pure water.
Yes, I have seen your posts but have not had a chance to welcome you there. There is a bunch of good folks over there and together we can all learn great things. I have not had much time lately. I look forward to seeing you over at overunity.
Thank you. Some folks have used pots of earth but that is not an earth battery. Your electrodes must be in the earth to pick up the telluric currents. Plates may work better, try it and see. The alignment and separation is crucial to get the best output. Check out our earth battery topics on overunitydotcom.
actually i produce energy with distilled water and carbon rods, sure it's less than what you reach, but if I put more cells it rises every other strange battery I've ever seen
You are making a galvanic battery and your electrodes will be consumed over time. This is not what we are doing with the earth battery. Have you noticed your carbon breaking down yet?
try to put the graphite rods in pure water and you'll see it works , maybe better. use only two carbon rods and a drop of water to test and nothing more. you don't need earth to produce electricity, you need water
Water actually hurts my power output. The dryer the soil, the better this works. You can make a galvanic battery and you are right, you don't need the earth, but the materials will get consumed as in a regular battery. The earth battery is free and is not like a regular battery at all.
The ac output of the Fuji in this configuration is 350-400 volts. I am now using a 650 farad supercap and the input volts from the EB are 2.3 volts so the output should be closer to 600 volts.
Nice Research Bill. Thanks for posting this. I ignored this work initially because I assumed it was simply galvanic and consumes the magnesium block. Now I am reconsidering based off your work. The crust of the earth is comparatively like the the thickness of the skin of an apple (so I have heard). I don't think it is unreasonable to assume that the molten energy of the earth's core could be tapped in this way. The energy available must be immense. Keep up the good work.
Yes, there is a lot more to all of this than is currently known. I do not pretend to know it all. I have read several theories on where this energy might be coming from, but, it does come from somewhere. On oudotcom, we researched the galvanic end of it and were satisfied that this is not what is happening. Let me know if I can help with your research, I would be happy to try.
Bill this has opened our eyes BRO, thanks for posting ill try and get some kits together and if so will send you one, we need to get you a SEC there man. Thanks for positing keep up the good work my friend, can we document this method? i think we should put it in the SEC papers
Thank you. Anyone can easily replicate this experiment. Now, as far as the sec is concerned, not so easy. but, I am willing to give it a go. Once I saw what Lidmotor was doing with it, which I think went beyond what I saw of Dr. Stiffler's work, although I am not up to date on that, I think this would be possible. Check out his videos. I am all for learning and trying new things. Thanks again.
I believe Lidmotor and Jonnydavro suggested the same thing. I am just not sure I have the knowledge to build one. I want to and I guess I could get a lot of help. That would be something to see. Thank you.
Yes, Watts, is also a moderator like I am on my topics, will ban you if you disagree that this motor works. I hope that it does. It should not, but I am always hopeful. But, to sell plans for a "working" mag motor when there is NO proof or a single replication is out of line. No one has got it to work and there are some well supplied smart folks trying. Mylow has gotten like 12 different types to work. Go figure. Many are following like sheep but, I am hopeful but not following. Its BS.
Amazing set of videos Pirate, especially this one!
I didn't really think that you could power much more than 2 or 3 leds with the E B. As you said, the caps made a lot of difference, but you could wonder why...
The earth battery gives you some voltage, but not a lot of current, so maybe the voltage is freeing more current when it reaches the caps???
Just a thought, try to double the capacitance and see if the light change.
And yeah, thanks for a great set of videos, this is important!
Thank you. I am ordering a 650 Farad cap this week. I suspect the volts will stay the same but the mA's will accumulate in the cap and be ready to be drawn off as required by the load. I am also going to try to tweak the EB output a bit prior to the caps. There is a lot to be discovered and learned here and I do not pretend to know more than I am showing in the videos. Thanks for your comments.
Thanks Paul. The EB is putting out between 1.95-2.00 volts. The tube is no where near full power but it is just a bright, if not brighter, then when I lit it using an AA battery. No lux meter but I would guess it is around 35-45%.
Hi Bill, I got lucky and did some digging for you and got this from Encyclopedia Britannica Online:
"Power consumption is 12 to 18 kilowatt-hours per kilogram of magnesium produced. Chlorine and other gases are generated at the graphite anodes, and molten magnesium metal floats to the top of the salt bath, where it is collected. The chlorine can be reused in the dehydration process."
So it is manufactured like aluminum, and you have the number: 15 kilowatt-hours per kilogram.
Keeping things very simple, that number means one kilogram of magnesium has the potential electrical energy in it to power a 100-watt light bulb for 150 hours, and a 0.1 watt LED for 150,000 hours, or 17 years.
Suppose you temporarily got rid of the magnesium and replaced it with a carbon rod for the sole purposes of measuring the power you can get from the telluric currents only. You would probably be lucky if you could get a few nanowatts of power, just a guess.
So, again, my take on the earth battery: You can only get nanowatts of power from the telluric currents, that's useless. The magnesium corrodes very very slowly, and you can get mircowatts of electrical energy from it due to the chemical process of corrosion. Highly doubtful you will be able to power a FL.
Here is the bottom line: The "earth battery" can light up some LEDs and the true source of that pwr is the magnesium smelter where they had to pump out 15 KW-H per kilogram for the ingot.
I hope that you can appreciate what I am saying. I am not trying to be nasty. I am trying to give you the REAL DEAL, the TRUTH. The message is not for you either, it's for everybody that experiments with this stuff. "Earth batteries" do NOT extract "free energy" from the Earth, it comes from the chemical decomposition of magnesium. There is no "gain" from an earth battery because it took a fantastic amount of energy to make the magnesium.
um...it's powering a fl in this and other videos. Did you miss something? All of the energy required to run the fl tubes was provided by the earth battery. Your other argument about the energy needed to make magnesium is not a logical one at all. It is apples and oranges and not relevant to my experiments in any way. I spent over 20 years as a design engineer in the precision ceramic machining field and I can assure you I know how to account for all the costs of a system.
Hi Bill, Sure you can charge up some caps during the day from the earth battery and then run the FL off the caps. I am specifically talking about running the FL directly from the earth battery, with the caps in place. You have already stated that this cannot be done.
The "earth battery" should really be called the "magnesium battery" because that's where the energy is really coming from. It's nothing more than a variation on a standard lead-acid battery.
I know that it is counter intuitive to look at a hunk of metal and view that as a source of electrical energy, but it is true. It's chemical energy just like a lead-acid battery converts chemical energy into electrical by the chemical decomposition of the electrodes. I read an article about powering cars with aluminum batteries based on the same process you are showing here but using chemical catalysts to speed up the reaction to get more juice.
All your talking about here is galvanic. This is limited to 1.5 volts which is why batteries all have 1.5 volt cells. I have had as high as 2.8 volts thus far. There are too many reasons to list here why this is not galvanic. We have tested and researched this for 2 years and this was one of the first things we looked at. Trust me when I tell you it is not galvanic.
For a guy that claims to be an engineer, you really need to pay more attention. I said it is almost keeping up but not quite at this point. A few changes in the circuit and it will be fine. 2 years ago my EB had no magnesium so how did it light leds with 2 metals the same? So I made a magnesium battery using no magnesium? I must be smarter than I thought. The new JT circuit is more efficient than the Fuji and I said that several times for those paying attention here. Do not mislead folks.
I can't comment on what you did two years ago. The new JT circuit may be more efficient but it is still limited by how much power you can extract from the corroding magnesium. I explained to you how to measure the max power and output impedance. That would give you an idea if powering a FL is doable. With a very large surface area of magnesium exposed to the earth and by moistening the soil, you might be able to power an FL directly, but I doubt it. Good luck.
See? I can tell you have never done this, or even read about it much because if you had, you would know that the drier the soil, the better the output. NOT wet, but dry. This is not a wet cell battery and it is not galvanic. Please read and try this for yourself but please stop posting false information here. Your uninformed assumptions are misleading folks.
I have read about them and I got this from a Google link:
"The electricity obtained in this way is very weak, depending wholly upon the moisture of the earth, and the arrangement forming therefore simply a water battery."
But truly I never had to read up on this stuff, because I know that the ground will conduct electricity better if it is moist, and I am not going to list the reasons.
Sorry if I am offending the "ideology" of the "earth battery" enthusiasts. Give me a break please.
I guess you could say Bill that I am challenging you and your group. If you all believe and have always believed that the drier the soil the better the battery, then I am challenging all of you and stating that you are wrong. Does your group have an explanation the your statement about the dry soil, or is it just accepted as fact? My gut feel is it's the latter. I also challenged your group on the "pulsing DC". If you did the research you would find I am right. Then who is misleading who?
You, who have never tried this, say you are right and we, who have all tested these devices are wrong? Many folks from all over the world have reported the same thing, the drier the soil, the better the output. This was done with actual testing. I too found the same to be true. Challenge this all you want but until you have tried it, and have others all over the world get different results from mine, I am sticking with what we have proven to be true through experimentation.
Here is the deal: The earth battery needs to have current flow through the soil between the magnesium and the carbon rods to function. I am pretty sure that the magnesium needs moisture as part of the chemical reaction to produce electricity. It a total absence of water, the battery is dead; no magnesium corrosion and no conduction path between the two electrodes. Add some moisture and you get the reaction and the soil conduction. Perhaps too much moisture and you get less output, not sure.
In thinking about it further, if the soil is too wet, chances are you now are in a situation where there is too much conduction through the soil, and the earth battery starts to short itself out.
If I am right, then there is some optimum amount of percentage moisture in the soil to get the best performance. Above and below that, the performance goes down. That is much more accurate than saying "the drier the better", and my comment about adding moisture in very dry soil would be valid.
You are right it needs water to work, and acts as the electrolyte. Telluric currents result from the changes in earths magnetic field which can add a bit of energy. The only reason water can hurt certain configurations is that multiple cells are used in a common area resulting in the cells shorting out which hurts overall power, although the ground is never bone-dry.. Even the air we breathe contains some amount of water, hence atmospheric water generators.
Well, I tested many configurations and when doing multiple cells my output went down as yours did, but when I isolated them in pots, the output remained intact. I think you are doing good work, but the real secret lies in the latest video you announced. You see the Stubblefield battery wasn't a battery at all, it was the connection to the earth. It's as Stubblefield said, "a plug". What we need to figure out is how the above ground circuit works, how to get the pump action sort to speak.
With 2 electrodes of the same metal, none of which is magnesium, you can get enough to light several leds. This has been done and it is easy to do. You should try it yourself and then you would know.
I can only guess that the two metals were not truly identical, giving you the volt. For example, there are many alloys of aluminum, and to the average person they may look the same.
Again, please give me a break saying that I am posting false information. I am just having a debate with you, and that is supposed to be healthy. Your choice to investigate or not.
You know in the forums some people post the most ridiculous disinformation and nobody says anything, no need for a double-standard.
Just to respond to your point that this whole thing is not galvanic. So your contention is that it has nothing or perhaps very little to do with the corroding magnesium. So what is your group's explanation for the observed power? It can't be purely telluric in nature because then you don't need the dissimilar metals buried in the ground. So what is the explanation?
The different metals appear to receive the telluric currents better. If it were as you claim, why would placing one type of metal to the north, and the other to the south (meridian) make a huge difference in output? Try it yourself and see. Take 2 copper tubes cut from the same one, and place one to then and one to the s. (Not magnetic, use actual meridian line) Test it. Then, after a rain, test it. Then, in the heat of summer in a drought, test it. Then you will know.
"The different metals appear to receive the telluric currents better."
Again, since we have started talking about this I reread a few telluric current articles, and I am going to apply my knowledge. Your statement above is incorrect and I am going to explain why. Let's make a simple model for telluric current flowing through the soil. You can imagine a 20 Km wide and 100 Km long piece of land as a giant resistor, oriented north-south, the way the currents flow.
I don't dispute at all your comment about the north-south orientation of the metal stakes for picking up the power because that is the way the current flows.
Suppose there is 100 volts across the 100 Km resistor. The voltage drops as you travel along the resistor. That means imaginary lines that have the same voltage ("equipotentials") are laid out east-west.
When you put your two stakes in the ground, the potential due to the telluric currents only depends on the north-south distance.
Can you visualize that in your mind? The telluric current-based voltage is only due to the north-south distance between the stakes. It has absolutely nothing to do with the type of metal in the stakes. The stakes can even be east-west offset and the voltage will not change, only the north-south distance will affect the voltage.
Beyond that, think of the two stakes as being metal pins stuck into a resistor. Sure you get voltage, but the knowing the output impedance is critical.
I will make an assumption that in your group over two years nobody has discussed the output impedance or max output power from your two metal stakes in the ground. I will challenge you and your group again, these parameters are so fundamental when discussing any type of battery technology that you should all learn about this stuff to up the ante and improve your understanding and appreciation of what you are doing. Ignore it if you want, I understand how strong the peer pressure can be.
For the galvanic question, you type in "earth battery" and just about every Google link that comes up mentions galvanic currents and potentials from different metals. Is there a peer pressure in your group to believe that they are doing "something special" and you should ignore all the "conventional" data. That's a huge mistake.
I know I have not played, but from reading your batts get their juice from telluric currents and galvanic currents. You can't offer a 3rd option because there is none.
"There is none". See? Another absolute. You should have said that you do know of any, or can't think of any. There are at least 5 theories that I am aware of for why the earth battery works. I tend to believe that 3 of them have merit and may be valid. You only see 2 and insist there are no more. You really should quit using words like never, always, can't won't, etc. Read the Stubblefield patents, not enough room here to go into detail. Our group learned from conventional data & exp.
Can you tell me some of the other theories and I will look them up. Don't be surprised if I come back and tell you they are pseudoscience. You gave me the first, "Stubblefield patents".
And yes, I am being pig headed, I admit it. I cannot think of any other possible sources of energy than the two I mentioned.
The research is there on overunitydotcom. It has all been published and all you have to do is read. there are two topic there dealing with this. All aspects were researched and tested by experimentation. If you choose not to read it, I am not going to attempt to recap 2 years worth of research for you here. By the way, we also made Stubblefield bifilar coils as well. I don't know what you imply by peer pressure here.
I'll have a read, hope soon. I know that I am not a good "teacher" and I can be be abrasive. However, my intentions are good, even if sometimes they might seem like cod liver oil. At the same time, I am sure that you are fully aware that I have helped people along with their projects countless times, just for the fun of it.
On the other hand, no bullshit and abrasive: a huge portion of what goes on in the forums is nonsense written by people with almost no knowledge, and they get away with it.
I agree with you about the FE forums and some of the community. Look what Sterling has done with the Mylow thing. Totally irresponsible in my opinion. I may be a little touchy on this subject as I have had to deal with folks saying things like..."you just buried a real battery and wires and are trying to fool us..." etc. Or, "you obviously cut into a buried power line when you dug the hole." Even tho this is out of my field, I have worked with it for 2 years and don't want to fool anyone.
Hey Bill, Yes about the Mylow affair. You are probably aware that Mylow has pulled his account again. This time round on the OU forum not too many people seem to care. I have been reading the forum, and I have a comment about Wattsup. He made some "technical" comments so I can tell you that he knows nothing about electromagnetics. But he is truly almost possessed with a blind belief in Mylow, it is almost scary, like he could have a breakdown. He will twist his logic any way to defend him
Re: Re: Re: You little shmuck Re: Re: Re: You little shmuck
You started your comments about my stuff and everyone else for many months now. I see that your problems is not electronic, Its show your problem is being a sex offender of some type!
I will fight fire with fire, you may know more about electronics but I can see a 42 year old man talking up a storm with 13 year old girls....
I'll give you a break when you stop posting definitive statements that are incorrect. Debate is fine, but you say, this can't work, it's galvanic, it needs water, etc. These are wrong and have been proven wrong. Gee, two pieces of copper cut from the same 4 ft. tube are different but look the same? Different alloys in the same length of tubing? Write a paper on metallurgy then IF you can prove this is correct, which I doubt. I HAVE investigated this very thoroughly, hence the videos.
Thank you. Right now, the earth battery is not putting out enough mA's to keep up with the demands of the Fuji circuit. Some of my joule thief research buddies have much more efficient circuits I will be using. My guess is not all that long as it is. I will have some larger caps in soon and then I will do endurance testing. This Fuji pulls quite a bit to light this tube.
Nice work Bill.You have inspired me to research this little known power source and reading about Nathan stubblefield last night it seems that It's a lost science and thanks to you it is re-emerging.Thanks for shareing your work and if i can source the rods,i will be trying it too.Jonny
Thanks Jonny. The more folks that replicate this the more ideas folks will add to it and there is no telling what the outcome might be. Heck, you'll probably have 20 no bearing magnets spinning off of it. if you have trouble with materials, I can maybe help with some links.
I am using carbon rods. They are known as gouging rods in the welding industry. I bought one 18" long x 1" dia. I cut it in half to make two 9" rods. On the south side, I am using a 5 pound magnesium block which is used in to protect tanks buried in the ground. (gas, oil, etc) Good luck and if I can help, pm me.
Does it ever flicker? It doesn't seem to. I bet that is better than mine from last january. Mine lit for 2 hours without the extra cap just on a 1.5volt AA. well it wasn't 48 inch but it was 15 watts..
I am going to put some microbes into my soil. Maybe I can get some more volts and do this too. This is so inspiring.
Thanks Jeanna! Remember, the EB the way it is set-up now will not fire the Fuji JT circuit so, I need the supercaps. Evidently, the mA's build up higher in these caps than what you pump into them but the volts appear to stay the same as input. When I can afford the 3,000 Farad cap i am convinced this will run all night but it will have to charge during the day. It appears to light as steady as back when I used an AA bat. The supercaps charge real fast and then act like a battery.
Great job Bill, another 5 stars... About the amperage in a cap, that is a funny thing. Those caps will give pretty much whatever amperage is asked for from whatever device is connected to it. You see you may only be putting mA's into it, it will only fill slower, but it will discharge as fast as you let it, and create whatever amperage is needed. Like filling a water tower. It will fill with a trickle, but it can gush out much stronger!
The water tower example is EXACTLY what I am seeing here. Very good analogy. That is why I want the new large cap (3,000 F) because I don't care if it takes all day to fill cause I only need it at night. Thank you.
For the water tower, the height of the water in the tower is like the voltage in the cap, and the water flow is like the current flow. The volume capacity of the tower is like the size of the capacitor.
Another good analogy is an air tank. Pressure = voltage, air flow = current, tank size = cap size.
The cliche about the truck maintenance guy that forgets the air line connected to the truck tire. He comes from his break and Boom! The truck tire explodes and they have to scrape him off the wall. That was the bus tire capacitor being "shorted out", a massive amount of air flow and a near-instantaneous drop in tire pressure, and a massive sudden expenditure of stored energy.
If you get it, then think of a car crashing into a concrete wall at high speed. Another cap discharge!
Thanks for the warning. I have posted in several places to ask at what point a cap becomes dangerous. I have discharged 400 volt caps (pico farads) with my fingers and I am still here but it did really hurt. I know it is the amps that stop the heart but then a car battery has plenty@12 volts and no problem there. What level supercap would you consider dangerous at 2.7 volts? Thanks. This may help others too.
Yes, and I will add to what the good captain has said.
The fluoros take more volts to start up. Once started they take just a bit. - and maybe it is not so much amps as you think. My guess is that once it starts, and it did, the caps will easily "keep up".
I would love to see if this goes longer than a couple of hours. I hope you can find a way to test this.
The earth battery is not putting out enough mA's to keep up with it which is why I am using the supercaps. With a really large cap, it will run all night. (I am ordering one) With these, I don't know but I am guessing it will get dim in about 30 minutes or so but I have not tried it yet so, maybe not.
This is still the coolest thing goin, I say. Did the supercaps charge all day, I assume , to do that? How long did it run? I gotta try this.
KyleCarrington 2 months ago
@KyleCarrington
Thank you very much. No, those caps charged up in a matter of minutes...while I was hooking up the rest of the circuit and getting the cam ready to shoot. I didn't do a longevity test on this set-up as I was so astonished that it worked, I wanted to get the video on youtube right away. I now use my 650 farad boostcap and it will light up for quite a while.
Bill
Pirate88179 1 month ago
@Pirate88179 That's incredible. I want to explore this, because given what you have shown, and said, I see no reason you can't build an inexpensive cap dump to a 3.6 volt li-ion. A time delay circuit, and collect that energy perpetually. It's not a ton of energy, but hey... its free.
KyleCarrington 1 month ago
@KyleCarrington
Thanks a lot. If you have ever seen my EB scope shots video you can see large spikes. I found that these supercaps capture these spikes where a battery does not. So, I can charge a 2.7 volt super cap fully even though the EB puts out about 1.9 volts. It was the high spikes that are captured.
Bill
Pirate88179 1 month ago
@Pirate88179 ... right... I was thinking, for about $24 you can buy (10) 2.7V 10F supercaps, ran in a parallel circuit of 5 in series, you'd have enough volts (5 x 2.7 = 13.5v), and my math says you'd have 2F, with each series leg, so a total of a 4F/13.5V dump each time. 24 hours a day. Now, in your video, you just plugged it in and let it go. Imagine if if charged a 12v battery via the caps, 24hrs a day, and all you asked from it was light for 1-3 hours per day. I think it'd work nice.
KyleCarrington 1 month ago
haaaaaaax!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
joblessalex 6 months ago
@joblessalex
What are you trying to say here?
Bill
Pirate88179 6 months ago
I got questions out the waso.....Suppose you had some large pvc pipes and they were capped on the ends....and were filled with viniger and salt and sand and cotton two beside each other with poles connecting them....would that create a mega charge?
bubba110775 9 months ago
Bill, has anyone managed to connect several Earth Cells in series or parallel, or does it "not work like that". Thanks. Sorry for an "old question" , but I have not found an answer anywhere.
KyleCarrington 9 months ago
@KyleCarrington
Yes, and no. Set-ups like mine can only be connected together if they are isolated from one another, there-by making it a purely galvanic device because the telluric currents are then blocked. Now, a true earth battery like the Stubblefield coil can be connected together.
Bill
Pirate88179 9 months ago
@Pirate88179 Very interesting. Due to my igonorance on the subject, perhaps.. I almost see a conflict in statements. The more I look at a Stubblefield, the more I see, just that, a galvanic battery. A crude and simple one at that, subject to corrosion if nickel wire is not substituted in. They work on a countertop, they work in the dirt... I don't see how the "earth" plays any factor beyond replenishing the moisture level, really.
KyleCarrington 9 months ago
@KyleCarrington
Yes, the coils work on a table but then you get corrosion like you said. When placed in the ground properly, they last for years and years according to Stubblefield himself. Also, the power is much higher in the ground. He was getting a lot of amps and you can't do that on a table.
Bill
Pirate88179 9 months ago
@Pirate88179 That's very interesting indeed. So you consider these telluric? I have some interesting polymer rag by 3M, 90k threads per inch, polymer based. I wonder if these polymer lint free shop rags, combined with nickel wire (and iron wire - rebar tie wire, or copper wire for the other electrode) might assist in making a unit that basically, would not suffer corrosion or degregation much at all.
KyleCarrington 9 months ago
@Pirate88179 what would happen if you made that same battery and added a coil from a car? and then a condenser unit to decrease the voltage to 120 would you have enough to run your house?
bubba110775 9 months ago
@KyleCarrington yes i think that is how they powered old telegraphs back in the day
HOPKINS3533 2 months ago
@Doug3445
There you go. also, those camera boards come with an industrial AA bat. that is hardly drained at all and will last a long time. best of luck to you and enjoy this circuit.
Bill
Pirate88179 1 year ago
Hi, Bill. The earth batteries I usually see are the typical zinc and copper set ups. Where can I find more info on the carbon rod type you are using? Very interesting things you are doing there. Keep it up, I just subscribed to your channel :)
JouleTheft 1 year ago
@JouleTheft
Thank you. I like carbon because it has a higher output and does not break down...yet at least. On Overunitydotcom (use a . instead of "dot") in the Stubblefield topic area you can learn more about what has been done and why we did it.
Bill
Pirate88179 1 year ago
that's very impressive bill. don't suppose the earth will "run out"!!! nice. Do these fuji cameras have an IC based joule thief circuit inside? Or is it just the Trigger Trans your needing, as in Simple SEC. Seems like "Fuji guts" is popular nowadays. Is it all about the IC being more capable than previously devised home-made JT-like circuits? As cool as it all is, it's starting to get a bit "dependant" and less homebrew these days (or maybe I'm way off here!)
KyleCarrington 1 year ago
@KyleCarrington
Thanks. The Fuji's just use a transistor and a very compact little transformer. No ic's at all. Some use the trigger coil but I never have. This was done a while ago and I can get better results using a large toroid that I hand wound myself...you can get over 700 volts this way. The Fuji is a great little circuit as you can get them for free as the photo places just throw them out after removing the film.
Pirate88179 1 year ago
@Pirate88179 oh i see, save time, recycle, but no "reliance" - I like! Your the man, will be watching! I love how you incorporate the Earth batteries. It means a lot more to me, at the end of the day we are talking milliamps, in any scenario, and if it comes from the wall, why spend money on circuits, caps, etc. to save milliamps (ROI?!?) - why not use a solar cell, thermocouple or earth cell... makes a lot of sense - esp. to us who have cabins offgrid
KyleCarrington 1 year ago
@Pirate88179 Do you have a video of the toroid? Do you mean a large bifilar toroid or does it have a primary wind and a step up wind of many more turns?. I have this very rigid (not spongey) large foam toroid. It's about 12" diameter and about 1.5" diameter on the core, so about 10.5" inner diameter. I've been thinking of making some sort of air core toroid from it. It's for floral wreaths I think, but is round, a perfect toroid shape.
KyleCarrington 9 months ago
@KyleCarrington
Yes, see my video called something like.."Pirate's Lidmotor Jeanna's Light Replication" No, not bifilar on that one. It has a base coil, a collector coil and a pick-up coil all on the same toroid. Uses a 3 3/8" diameter ferrite toroid of very high permeability. (Very important) You might be able to make a large air core from that...the frequency would be pretty high I imagine. If you do that, let me know how it goes.
Bill
Pirate88179 9 months ago
@Pirate88179 Cool. Did that circuit get wired up as an inverter, basically? I one wound an inverter circuit that drove 15 watt fluoro's at the 20 watt level, from a 12v battery. It worked, but... it wasn't real efficient, and I never did figure out how to warm up the electrodes, so there was always plasma, it blackened the straight tube ends real quick. I often wondered if I had of tapped my high voltage coil at a point, perhaps i could have "momentarily" done a heatup.
KyleCarrington 9 months ago
how bright will the lamp get during a electrical storm
powermaks 1 year ago 2
@powermaks
Good question but I have not been brave enough to test that, ha ha.
Bill
Pirate88179 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Free Energy is real and its here! The Oil companies are doing everything they can to stop this
information. If you want a Free energy machine , get the blueprints at LT-MAGNET-MOTORdotCOM , Join the
revolution!
slipshodcoqbgg 1 year ago
pirate88179 u are effing awesome! is there anyway for me to get exact information on how to do this exactly!!
mikedolson 1 year ago
@mikedolson
Everything is posted over at overunitydotcom (replace the "dot" with a ".") in the joule thief topic. Some good info on the Fuji to get started is on josepinodotcom. Join in the fun. We have a blast working with these things. It is a long topic but very good info there. When at overunity, make sure to say hello to me. If I can help you in any way, I will try to do so.
Bill
Pirate88179 1 year ago
@Pirate88179
okay they are verifying my email!
mikedolson 1 year ago
hi pirate im ajimaru from phillipines ^_^ i love your work so much but i cant find any fugi disposable -_-. can you send me 1, plssss....
ajimaru87 1 year ago
You have a low voltage (earth) battery, stepped up, and capacitors for starting current. Supercap? Is that a brand name? Those are just standard capacitors. It takes very little current to run a flourescent tube. I have lit one in my hand with no wires, just simply RF energy. Interesting experiment but this is basic electronics 101.
helipilot727 1 year ago
Well, you are almost right. Those caps are indeed supercaps and are pretty advanced electronic devices. It is a type of cap not a brand name. Those caps are 10 Farad each, yes Farad not pico farad. My big cap, used in my other videos, is 650 Farads and that is called a boost cap. You do not need a starting current when lighting tubes at high voltage and high freq. Supercaps capture the high spikes emitted from the ground electrodes. You can see these on the scope shots.
Thanks,
Bill
Pirate88179 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Hello everyone! i watch the video and it seems to me that it is very interesting. i feel that maybe i can do work and use this type of producing energy in my remote area. some how i'm not really expert to do this technical matter but it look like i can do it. does anyone could send me a schematic drawing / wiring diagram as in above videos and specific details of materials to be used through my email ( arlanqat1@gmail.com ). thanks for sharing your knowledge.
arlanqat1 1 year ago
No offense. How nice to see some super diagram of this device, the important thing is the amperage on if moreover, illuminates nothing but the low intensity he has, and nothing else, it simply is radiant energy that has no point going to the amp. .. A greeting and do not be mad but I always see these videos and I'll explain it in half, Aca low light and is not showing the operation or the explanation of the circuit and it does what it does ...
ascalar 2 years ago
I appreciate your comments but you are not correct. In the side bar, I gave the location of every circuit that we have on these devices as well as explanations on how they work and other, even better, circuits. You may think the light level is low but consider that it costs nothing to obtain. To try to explain all of this in one video is impossible that is why we have over 12,000 posts on our Joule Thief topic at overunitydotcom. Check it out, all info is there.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Good show.
1) What kind of corrosion factor are we looking at for the metal investment?
2) Can I use exact same set up with AA battery when needed?
3) Fugi thing from a disposable camera? Substitue might be what?
Thanks
ChristianMuslum 2 years ago
Thank you.
1. I have not seen any evidence of corrosion thus far.
2. Yes, the Fuji is designed to use with an AA bat.
3. You can hand wind your own joule thief circuit and get better results. Jeanna now gets over 2,000 volts with her large JT circuits.
See lasersaber (Youtube name) videos on here. His system has surpassed my output. He is getting over 100 mA's now. He can run all sorts of stuff with his without any caps.
Thanks,
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
HOLY SMOKES BATMAN
ScientologySucksAss 2 years ago
Bill,
Are those caps the maxwell bcap type?
thanks,
jeanna
jeannacav 2 years ago
Jeanna:
No, these are just 2 regular supercaps. They contain no electrolyte like the hybrid Bcaps do. I didn't get that bcap until a while after I made this series of the videos.
Thanks,
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
These are two 10 Farad supercaps. (In parallel) Sorry I might not have mentioned that.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Thank you very much. I really appreciate your comment. Anyone can replicate this for not a lot of money. I am only one of many working on this type of energy research and all of the information is on Overunitydotcom. (replace the dot with a . )
Thanks again,
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Sir, Where did you find your carbon rods and how long are they?
buddybill65 2 years ago
I originally purchased a 1" diameter X 18" long carbon rod from a company called Airgas. They are on the net and also have a local store here. (Welding supply) These are gouging rods, pure carbon, nothing else, not coated. After a few experiments were I could not get deep enough due to ground conditions, I cut the rod in half so I now have 2 9" long x 1" diameter rods. It cost about $20.00.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
xcould you send me the circuit?
teslanumbertwo 2 years ago
The circuits are at Overunitydotcom in the Joule Thief topic area. I also have another topic at the Joule thief diagrams area that has all of the schematics.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
How long will it run sir? Thanks sir!
alphaenergyresearch 2 years ago
I don't really know. I never timed it using just these two 10F supercaps. I now am using a 650 farad supercap in these type of experiments so I am sure it will run longer than this set-up would. Some folks in our group can run a cfl on an AA battery for over 14 hours so I guess this might be something close to that, but i have never tested it.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Very nice. Do you have any desire to demonstrate to university professors?
rrich1000 2 years ago
Thank you. Sure, I would be happy to but I doubt they would have any interest as this has been pretty well known since the late 1800's.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
yupi. do i see any tks to Tesla?
Nooooo!... why???
Now you can try the same but with radio waves.
Yes?
altinojpn 2 years ago
Hey, this is all Tesla. The JT circuit and the EER is all Tesla and Stubblefield and....they were friends and associates.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Well. Nice gesture in naming them.
altinojpn 2 years ago
Check the tags on my video, they were already there. (Under more information on the right) Thanks.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Our research group over at Overunitydotcom has decided to call these Earth Energy Receivers (EER's ) as it describes them more accurately.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Very interesting, great posts. Just what the net should be about.
deadrebel2 2 years ago
Thank you.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
impressive...
morpher44 2 years ago
Thank you.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Intersting stuff I went into the garden banged 3 foot galzaised steel bar at N 30 inch into ground 18 inch 1 inch dia copper pipe at S 12 inch into ground strung 24 foot of wire longest I had, Volt reading was 1.040.Something to persue here. John
christmasduck2 2 years ago
Thank you. That is a good reading you have there. If you make a joule thief circuit, that is enough voltage to light an ultrabright LED, maybe even more than one depending on your mA's output. Nice work.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Fascinating stuff you got here. I have a couple questions for the moment. Is there a schematic available for the joule thief?
Is there a soil type that your earth battery prefers?
wxfix 2 years ago
Thank you. Go to Overunitydotcom and check out the joule thief topic. It is about 800 pages now but I also made a locked topic just for photos and schematics called the Joule thief diagrams topic. Everything you would ever want to know about the joule thief is there. Let me know if you need any help.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
If I am not wrong graphite is pure carbon.
Let me know if you test two rods in a drop of water how much voltage is produced. If you use a carbon rod and a silicon rod it will be better, but I know it's hard to find monocristalline silicon .
steblizz 2 years ago
Carbon is pure, graphite is made from carbon and is recrystallized during the process. (graphitization) Carbon gives you all of the properties of carbon, graphite has different properties. Different structure. I can get decent voltage with 2 carbon rods in totally dry ground with proper alignment. Not a big difference between the two materials but I wanted the properties of pure carbon for this.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
yes, I saw it from different pieces of graphite, they give me different voltages, I don't reach 2 volts from every cell, but recently I used a magnete (iron and oxygen) and the monocristalline silicon I have, so I see it works the same with pure water. Let me know how much your pure carbon rods are conductive and what happens if you put them with a proper alignment in a drop of pure water.
steblizz 2 years ago
my carbon rods are made of graphyte, the same as yours
steblizz 2 years ago
My rods are pure carbon, and not graphite, very similar but not the same.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Yes, I have seen your posts but have not had a chance to welcome you there. There is a bunch of good folks over there and together we can all learn great things. I have not had much time lately. I look forward to seeing you over at overunity.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Thank you. Some folks have used pots of earth but that is not an earth battery. Your electrodes must be in the earth to pick up the telluric currents. Plates may work better, try it and see. The alignment and separation is crucial to get the best output. Check out our earth battery topics on overunitydotcom.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
actually i produce energy with distilled water and carbon rods, sure it's less than what you reach, but if I put more cells it rises every other strange battery I've ever seen
steblizz 2 years ago
You are making a galvanic battery and your electrodes will be consumed over time. This is not what we are doing with the earth battery. Have you noticed your carbon breaking down yet?
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
no, I haven't
steblizz 2 years ago
try to put the graphite rods in pure water and you'll see it works , maybe better. use only two carbon rods and a drop of water to test and nothing more. you don't need earth to produce electricity, you need water
steblizz 2 years ago
Water actually hurts my power output. The dryer the soil, the better this works. You can make a galvanic battery and you are right, you don't need the earth, but the materials will get consumed as in a regular battery. The earth battery is free and is not like a regular battery at all.
BIll
Pirate88179 2 years ago
awesome your earth battery rocks \m/ =)
chazdaspazman 2 years ago
Thank you.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
What is the pulse voltage output of the fuji circuit? Would that depend on the PWM and capactors? Please approximate?
LoneOarman 2 years ago
The ac output of the Fuji in this configuration is 350-400 volts. I am now using a 650 farad supercap and the input volts from the EB are 2.3 volts so the output should be closer to 600 volts.
Bil
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Hello Pirate (Bill) its electricme,
I have read all the comments, there are intellegent ones, excellent ones and ignorant ones.
You have done a very good job with this setup of yours, lightning a 40" fluro tube from a setof electrodes stuck in the dirt is top notch in my book.
Well done cobber.
@Drevtoobe, stick in the mud,
I managed to make a tiny electric motor work for 7 minutes using power I derived from the earth, so stick that in your jaw.
jim
daddyjimau 2 years ago
Thanks Jim, that means a lot coming from a guy that knows as much about electronics as you do. I appreciate that.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
You are more than welcome Bill.
AvaGoodDay mate
daddyjimau 2 years ago
Nice Research Bill. Thanks for posting this. I ignored this work initially because I assumed it was simply galvanic and consumes the magnesium block. Now I am reconsidering based off your work. The crust of the earth is comparatively like the the thickness of the skin of an apple (so I have heard). I don't think it is unreasonable to assume that the molten energy of the earth's core could be tapped in this way. The energy available must be immense. Keep up the good work.
ResinRat2 2 years ago
Thank you.
Yes, there is a lot more to all of this than is currently known. I do not pretend to know it all. I have read several theories on where this energy might be coming from, but, it does come from somewhere. On oudotcom, we researched the galvanic end of it and were satisfied that this is not what is happening. Let me know if I can help with your research, I would be happy to try.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Bill this has opened our eyes BRO, thanks for posting ill try and get some kits together and if so will send you one, we need to get you a SEC there man. Thanks for positing keep up the good work my friend, can we document this method? i think we should put it in the SEC papers
ashtweth 2 years ago
Thank you. Anyone can easily replicate this experiment. Now, as far as the sec is concerned, not so easy. but, I am willing to give it a go. Once I saw what Lidmotor was doing with it, which I think went beyond what I saw of Dr. Stiffler's work, although I am not up to date on that, I think this would be possible. Check out his videos. I am all for learning and trying new things. Thanks again.
Bil
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Bill lets run a SEC on that baby...
ashtweth 2 years ago
I believe Lidmotor and Jonnydavro suggested the same thing. I am just not sure I have the knowledge to build one. I want to and I guess I could get a lot of help. That would be something to see. Thank you.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Comment removed
OverUnityNow1 2 years ago
Yes, Watts, is also a moderator like I am on my topics, will ban you if you disagree that this motor works. I hope that it does. It should not, but I am always hopeful. But, to sell plans for a "working" mag motor when there is NO proof or a single replication is out of line. No one has got it to work and there are some well supplied smart folks trying. Mylow has gotten like 12 different types to work. Go figure. Many are following like sheep but, I am hopeful but not following. Its BS.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Amazing set of videos Pirate, especially this one!
I didn't really think that you could power much more than 2 or 3 leds with the E B. As you said, the caps made a lot of difference, but you could wonder why...
The earth battery gives you some voltage, but not a lot of current, so maybe the voltage is freeing more current when it reaches the caps???
Just a thought, try to double the capacitance and see if the light change.
And yeah, thanks for a great set of videos, this is important!
Nabo00o 2 years ago
Thank you. I am ordering a 650 Farad cap this week. I suspect the volts will stay the same but the mA's will accumulate in the cap and be ready to be drawn off as required by the load. I am also going to try to tweak the EB output a bit prior to the caps. There is a lot to be discovered and learned here and I do not pretend to know more than I am showing in the videos. Thanks for your comments.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Nice, I've got a lot of catching up to do on everyones video. Thats just about as free as it comes. What voltage does the Earth Battery put out?
Was the fluorescent at full power? do you have a lux meter?
5*
Paul
kubikop 2 years ago
Thanks Paul. The EB is putting out between 1.95-2.00 volts. The tube is no where near full power but it is just a bright, if not brighter, then when I lit it using an AA battery. No lux meter but I would guess it is around 35-45%.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Hi Bill, I got lucky and did some digging for you and got this from Encyclopedia Britannica Online:
"Power consumption is 12 to 18 kilowatt-hours per kilogram of magnesium produced. Chlorine and other gases are generated at the graphite anodes, and molten magnesium metal floats to the top of the salt bath, where it is collected. The chlorine can be reused in the dehydration process."
So it is manufactured like aluminum, and you have the number: 15 kilowatt-hours per kilogram.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
Keeping things very simple, that number means one kilogram of magnesium has the potential electrical energy in it to power a 100-watt light bulb for 150 hours, and a 0.1 watt LED for 150,000 hours, or 17 years.
Suppose you temporarily got rid of the magnesium and replaced it with a carbon rod for the sole purposes of measuring the power you can get from the telluric currents only. You would probably be lucky if you could get a few nanowatts of power, just a guess.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
So, again, my take on the earth battery: You can only get nanowatts of power from the telluric currents, that's useless. The magnesium corrodes very very slowly, and you can get mircowatts of electrical energy from it due to the chemical process of corrosion. Highly doubtful you will be able to power a FL.
Here is the bottom line: The "earth battery" can light up some LEDs and the true source of that pwr is the magnesium smelter where they had to pump out 15 KW-H per kilogram for the ingot.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
I hope that you can appreciate what I am saying. I am not trying to be nasty. I am trying to give you the REAL DEAL, the TRUTH. The message is not for you either, it's for everybody that experiments with this stuff. "Earth batteries" do NOT extract "free energy" from the Earth, it comes from the chemical decomposition of magnesium. There is no "gain" from an earth battery because it took a fantastic amount of energy to make the magnesium.
I hope you understand where my heart is on this.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
um...it's powering a fl in this and other videos. Did you miss something? All of the energy required to run the fl tubes was provided by the earth battery. Your other argument about the energy needed to make magnesium is not a logical one at all. It is apples and oranges and not relevant to my experiments in any way. I spent over 20 years as a design engineer in the precision ceramic machining field and I can assure you I know how to account for all the costs of a system.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Hi Bill, Sure you can charge up some caps during the day from the earth battery and then run the FL off the caps. I am specifically talking about running the FL directly from the earth battery, with the caps in place. You have already stated that this cannot be done.
The "earth battery" should really be called the "magnesium battery" because that's where the energy is really coming from. It's nothing more than a variation on a standard lead-acid battery.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
I know that it is counter intuitive to look at a hunk of metal and view that as a source of electrical energy, but it is true. It's chemical energy just like a lead-acid battery converts chemical energy into electrical by the chemical decomposition of the electrodes. I read an article about powering cars with aluminum batteries based on the same process you are showing here but using chemical catalysts to speed up the reaction to get more juice.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
All your talking about here is galvanic. This is limited to 1.5 volts which is why batteries all have 1.5 volt cells. I have had as high as 2.8 volts thus far. There are too many reasons to list here why this is not galvanic. We have tested and researched this for 2 years and this was one of the first things we looked at. Trust me when I tell you it is not galvanic.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
For a guy that claims to be an engineer, you really need to pay more attention. I said it is almost keeping up but not quite at this point. A few changes in the circuit and it will be fine. 2 years ago my EB had no magnesium so how did it light leds with 2 metals the same? So I made a magnesium battery using no magnesium? I must be smarter than I thought. The new JT circuit is more efficient than the Fuji and I said that several times for those paying attention here. Do not mislead folks.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
I can't comment on what you did two years ago. The new JT circuit may be more efficient but it is still limited by how much power you can extract from the corroding magnesium. I explained to you how to measure the max power and output impedance. That would give you an idea if powering a FL is doable. With a very large surface area of magnesium exposed to the earth and by moistening the soil, you might be able to power an FL directly, but I doubt it. Good luck.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
See? I can tell you have never done this, or even read about it much because if you had, you would know that the drier the soil, the better the output. NOT wet, but dry. This is not a wet cell battery and it is not galvanic. Please read and try this for yourself but please stop posting false information here. Your uninformed assumptions are misleading folks.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
I have read about them and I got this from a Google link:
"The electricity obtained in this way is very weak, depending wholly upon the moisture of the earth, and the arrangement forming therefore simply a water battery."
But truly I never had to read up on this stuff, because I know that the ground will conduct electricity better if it is moist, and I am not going to list the reasons.
Sorry if I am offending the "ideology" of the "earth battery" enthusiasts. Give me a break please.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
I guess you could say Bill that I am challenging you and your group. If you all believe and have always believed that the drier the soil the better the battery, then I am challenging all of you and stating that you are wrong. Does your group have an explanation the your statement about the dry soil, or is it just accepted as fact? My gut feel is it's the latter. I also challenged your group on the "pulsing DC". If you did the research you would find I am right. Then who is misleading who?
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
You, who have never tried this, say you are right and we, who have all tested these devices are wrong? Many folks from all over the world have reported the same thing, the drier the soil, the better the output. This was done with actual testing. I too found the same to be true. Challenge this all you want but until you have tried it, and have others all over the world get different results from mine, I am sticking with what we have proven to be true through experimentation.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Here is the deal: The earth battery needs to have current flow through the soil between the magnesium and the carbon rods to function. I am pretty sure that the magnesium needs moisture as part of the chemical reaction to produce electricity. It a total absence of water, the battery is dead; no magnesium corrosion and no conduction path between the two electrodes. Add some moisture and you get the reaction and the soil conduction. Perhaps too much moisture and you get less output, not sure.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
In thinking about it further, if the soil is too wet, chances are you now are in a situation where there is too much conduction through the soil, and the earth battery starts to short itself out.
If I am right, then there is some optimum amount of percentage moisture in the soil to get the best performance. Above and below that, the performance goes down. That is much more accurate than saying "the drier the better", and my comment about adding moisture in very dry soil would be valid.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
You are right it needs water to work, and acts as the electrolyte. Telluric currents result from the changes in earths magnetic field which can add a bit of energy. The only reason water can hurt certain configurations is that multiple cells are used in a common area resulting in the cells shorting out which hurts overall power, although the ground is never bone-dry.. Even the air we breathe contains some amount of water, hence atmospheric water generators.
Wavefront101 2 years ago
The more dry the ground, the higher my output. This is all I know from my experiments here. When it rains, the output goes down.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Well, I tested many configurations and when doing multiple cells my output went down as yours did, but when I isolated them in pots, the output remained intact. I think you are doing good work, but the real secret lies in the latest video you announced. You see the Stubblefield battery wasn't a battery at all, it was the connection to the earth. It's as Stubblefield said, "a plug". What we need to figure out is how the above ground circuit works, how to get the pump action sort to speak.
Wavefront101 2 years ago
With 2 electrodes of the same metal, none of which is magnesium, you can get enough to light several leds. This has been done and it is easy to do. You should try it yourself and then you would know.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
I can only guess that the two metals were not truly identical, giving you the volt. For example, there are many alloys of aluminum, and to the average person they may look the same.
Again, please give me a break saying that I am posting false information. I am just having a debate with you, and that is supposed to be healthy. Your choice to investigate or not.
You know in the forums some people post the most ridiculous disinformation and nobody says anything, no need for a double-standard.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
Just to respond to your point that this whole thing is not galvanic. So your contention is that it has nothing or perhaps very little to do with the corroding magnesium. So what is your group's explanation for the observed power? It can't be purely telluric in nature because then you don't need the dissimilar metals buried in the ground. So what is the explanation?
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
The different metals appear to receive the telluric currents better. If it were as you claim, why would placing one type of metal to the north, and the other to the south (meridian) make a huge difference in output? Try it yourself and see. Take 2 copper tubes cut from the same one, and place one to then and one to the s. (Not magnetic, use actual meridian line) Test it. Then, after a rain, test it. Then, in the heat of summer in a drought, test it. Then you will know.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
"The different metals appear to receive the telluric currents better."
Again, since we have started talking about this I reread a few telluric current articles, and I am going to apply my knowledge. Your statement above is incorrect and I am going to explain why. Let's make a simple model for telluric current flowing through the soil. You can imagine a 20 Km wide and 100 Km long piece of land as a giant resistor, oriented north-south, the way the currents flow.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
I don't dispute at all your comment about the north-south orientation of the metal stakes for picking up the power because that is the way the current flows.
Suppose there is 100 volts across the 100 Km resistor. The voltage drops as you travel along the resistor. That means imaginary lines that have the same voltage ("equipotentials") are laid out east-west.
When you put your two stakes in the ground, the potential due to the telluric currents only depends on the north-south distance.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
Can you visualize that in your mind? The telluric current-based voltage is only due to the north-south distance between the stakes. It has absolutely nothing to do with the type of metal in the stakes. The stakes can even be east-west offset and the voltage will not change, only the north-south distance will affect the voltage.
Beyond that, think of the two stakes as being metal pins stuck into a resistor. Sure you get voltage, but the knowing the output impedance is critical.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
I will make an assumption that in your group over two years nobody has discussed the output impedance or max output power from your two metal stakes in the ground. I will challenge you and your group again, these parameters are so fundamental when discussing any type of battery technology that you should all learn about this stuff to up the ante and improve your understanding and appreciation of what you are doing. Ignore it if you want, I understand how strong the peer pressure can be.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
For the galvanic question, you type in "earth battery" and just about every Google link that comes up mentions galvanic currents and potentials from different metals. Is there a peer pressure in your group to believe that they are doing "something special" and you should ignore all the "conventional" data. That's a huge mistake.
I know I have not played, but from reading your batts get their juice from telluric currents and galvanic currents. You can't offer a 3rd option because there is none.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
"There is none". See? Another absolute. You should have said that you do know of any, or can't think of any. There are at least 5 theories that I am aware of for why the earth battery works. I tend to believe that 3 of them have merit and may be valid. You only see 2 and insist there are no more. You really should quit using words like never, always, can't won't, etc. Read the Stubblefield patents, not enough room here to go into detail. Our group learned from conventional data & exp.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Can you tell me some of the other theories and I will look them up. Don't be surprised if I come back and tell you they are pseudoscience. You gave me the first, "Stubblefield patents".
And yes, I am being pig headed, I admit it. I cannot think of any other possible sources of energy than the two I mentioned.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
The research is there on overunitydotcom. It has all been published and all you have to do is read. there are two topic there dealing with this. All aspects were researched and tested by experimentation. If you choose not to read it, I am not going to attempt to recap 2 years worth of research for you here. By the way, we also made Stubblefield bifilar coils as well. I don't know what you imply by peer pressure here.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
I'll have a read, hope soon. I know that I am not a good "teacher" and I can be be abrasive. However, my intentions are good, even if sometimes they might seem like cod liver oil. At the same time, I am sure that you are fully aware that I have helped people along with their projects countless times, just for the fun of it.
On the other hand, no bullshit and abrasive: a huge portion of what goes on in the forums is nonsense written by people with almost no knowledge, and they get away with it.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
I agree with you about the FE forums and some of the community. Look what Sterling has done with the Mylow thing. Totally irresponsible in my opinion. I may be a little touchy on this subject as I have had to deal with folks saying things like..."you just buried a real battery and wires and are trying to fool us..." etc. Or, "you obviously cut into a buried power line when you dug the hole." Even tho this is out of my field, I have worked with it for 2 years and don't want to fool anyone.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Hey Bill, Yes about the Mylow affair. You are probably aware that Mylow has pulled his account again. This time round on the OU forum not too many people seem to care. I have been reading the forum, and I have a comment about Wattsup. He made some "technical" comments so I can tell you that he knows nothing about electromagnetics. But he is truly almost possessed with a blind belief in Mylow, it is almost scary, like he could have a breakdown. He will twist his logic any way to defend him
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
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OverUnityNow1 2 years ago
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OverUnityNow1 2 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Drevtoobe
Re: Re: Re: You little shmuck Re: Re: Re: You little shmuck
You started your comments about my stuff and everyone else for many months now. I see that your problems is not electronic, Its show your problem is being a sex offender of some type!
I will fight fire with fire, you may know more about electronics but I can see a 42 year old man talking up a storm with 13 year old girls....
Just what are you up too Drevtoobe?
OverUnityNow1 2 years ago
I'll give you a break when you stop posting definitive statements that are incorrect. Debate is fine, but you say, this can't work, it's galvanic, it needs water, etc. These are wrong and have been proven wrong. Gee, two pieces of copper cut from the same 4 ft. tube are different but look the same? Different alloys in the same length of tubing? Write a paper on metallurgy then IF you can prove this is correct, which I doubt. I HAVE investigated this very thoroughly, hence the videos.
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Thats amazing Bill.
That big 40w fl running off a fuji circuit is Great.
But then that running off earth batterys now thats amazing.
How long will it runn off the two caps?
GBluer 2 years ago
Thank you. Right now, the earth battery is not putting out enough mA's to keep up with the demands of the Fuji circuit. Some of my joule thief research buddies have much more efficient circuits I will be using. My guess is not all that long as it is. I will have some larger caps in soon and then I will do endurance testing. This Fuji pulls quite a bit to light this tube.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Nice work Bill.You have inspired me to research this little known power source and reading about Nathan stubblefield last night it seems that It's a lost science and thanks to you it is re-emerging.Thanks for shareing your work and if i can source the rods,i will be trying it too.Jonny
jonnydavro 2 years ago
Thanks Jonny. The more folks that replicate this the more ideas folks will add to it and there is no telling what the outcome might be. Heck, you'll probably have 20 no bearing magnets spinning off of it. if you have trouble with materials, I can maybe help with some links.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
i am going to try this as soon as the weather gets better:) you are using Carbide Rods and a Magnesium Alloy block for you earth battery?
eroutt 2 years ago
I am using carbon rods. They are known as gouging rods in the welding industry. I bought one 18" long x 1" dia. I cut it in half to make two 9" rods. On the south side, I am using a 5 pound magnesium block which is used in to protect tanks buried in the ground. (gas, oil, etc) Good luck and if I can help, pm me.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
great work have you checked all your email accounts
BodkinsEnergy 2 years ago
awesome! 5 stars
you know what i'm gonna say next. let's see two four footers like you did before with the AA powered fugi.
WilbyInebriated 2 years ago
Thanks Wilby! You know, it just might do it. I will have to give it a try.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
awesome Bill.
Does it take some time to charge up?
Does it ever flicker? It doesn't seem to. I bet that is better than mine from last january. Mine lit for 2 hours without the extra cap just on a 1.5volt AA. well it wasn't 48 inch but it was 15 watts..
I am going to put some microbes into my soil. Maybe I can get some more volts and do this too. This is so inspiring.
thank you Bill.
jeanna
jeannacav 2 years ago
Thanks Jeanna! Remember, the EB the way it is set-up now will not fire the Fuji JT circuit so, I need the supercaps. Evidently, the mA's build up higher in these caps than what you pump into them but the volts appear to stay the same as input. When I can afford the 3,000 Farad cap i am convinced this will run all night but it will have to charge during the day. It appears to light as steady as back when I used an AA bat. The supercaps charge real fast and then act like a battery.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Great job Bill, another 5 stars... About the amperage in a cap, that is a funny thing. Those caps will give pretty much whatever amperage is asked for from whatever device is connected to it. You see you may only be putting mA's into it, it will only fill slower, but it will discharge as fast as you let it, and create whatever amperage is needed. Like filling a water tower. It will fill with a trickle, but it can gush out much stronger!
captainpecan 2 years ago
Captain:
The water tower example is EXACTLY what I am seeing here. Very good analogy. That is why I want the new large cap (3,000 F) because I don't care if it takes all day to fill cause I only need it at night. Thank you.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
For the water tower, the height of the water in the tower is like the voltage in the cap, and the water flow is like the current flow. The volume capacity of the tower is like the size of the capacitor.
Another good analogy is an air tank. Pressure = voltage, air flow = current, tank size = cap size.
Electrical capacitance = charge/voltage.
Air tank capacitance = amount of air/pressure.
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
The cliche about the truck maintenance guy that forgets the air line connected to the truck tire. He comes from his break and Boom! The truck tire explodes and they have to scrape him off the wall. That was the bus tire capacitor being "shorted out", a massive amount of air flow and a near-instantaneous drop in tire pressure, and a massive sudden expenditure of stored energy.
If you get it, then think of a car crashing into a concrete wall at high speed. Another cap discharge!
Drevtoobe 2 years ago
Thanks for the warning. I have posted in several places to ask at what point a cap becomes dangerous. I have discharged 400 volt caps (pico farads) with my fingers and I am still here but it did really hurt. I know it is the amps that stop the heart but then a car battery has plenty@12 volts and no problem there. What level supercap would you consider dangerous at 2.7 volts? Thanks. This may help others too.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago
Yes, and I will add to what the good captain has said.
The fluoros take more volts to start up. Once started they take just a bit. - and maybe it is not so much amps as you think. My guess is that once it starts, and it did, the caps will easily "keep up".
I would love to see if this goes longer than a couple of hours. I hope you can find a way to test this.
jeanna
jeannacav 2 years ago
Thanks for the video. How long will this thing run?
gregh530 2 years ago
The earth battery is not putting out enough mA's to keep up with it which is why I am using the supercaps. With a really large cap, it will run all night. (I am ordering one) With these, I don't know but I am guessing it will get dim in about 30 minutes or so but I have not tried it yet so, maybe not.
Bill
Pirate88179 2 years ago