The "experiment" in my previous post is only meant to make clear how helpful it is to have either the wort or the chiller in motion. Personally, I just swirl the chiller because its simple, and I dont have to buy anything else. However, you must take added attention to sanitation with my method.
Keep in mind, the incredible chill times of 5 minutes are only achieved by using a 2nd pump running ice water through the whirlpool chiller.
You can get an idea of how well this works with a simple experiment with an ordinary immersion unit when you chill your next batch:
Let the water from your line out run a few seconds, then hold your hand under it. In a few short moments, it will only be marginally warm. Have someone move the immersion chiller in a circular motion, and the waste water will suddenly become hot again. When your assistant stops moving the chiller, the waste water will quickly return to lukewarm.
Have you done any tests to see if there is any actual time difference?
I would imagine that this couldn't do anything BUT improve the effectiveness of the chiller, but I am wondering if it is a worthwhile improvement.
I always assumed that natural convection currents would rule out "hot spots", but is the whirling action decreases chilling time by a good ammount then it would be worth it.
However, that being said, I would think a counter-flow chiller would be the better combination.
removal of the trub is important, and is going to happen anyway since most homebrewers rack to a secondary within the first few days, no? ( Or uses a conical...) This whirlpool effect stirs the trub up so much that you'd have to wait for it to settle before racking, which would render useless any time savings. I'm not being negative here, its just that the video doesn't explain anything helpful, the CFC seems to be the choice of every homebrewer who can buy or make one...
Not just trub; break material. That material usually doesn't affect flavor but will responsible for chill haze. The whirlpool action is great for cooling quickly as it passes hot wort over the cold coils. After 10 minutes, the wort should be in the 80's at which point the IC can be removed, the lid can be put back on and the trub/break material will settle in the center of the pot. 25 mins later the wort can be drained through the ball value into the fermenter and cooled in the fridge.
Counterflows don't separate trub. Second of all, with good city water temperatures for the winter, you can knock down wort in 10 to 15 minutes no problem. Third, you don't need to sterilize an immersion chiller. Initial shock does the job just fine.
I just use my homemade immersion chiller and a large plastic brew spoon to stir. In the winter I get it to 70-75 in ten minutes with cold city water.
JohnAP2 4 months ago
how big of a batch are you cooling
5 or 10
hunt0707 3 years ago
The "experiment" in my previous post is only meant to make clear how helpful it is to have either the wort or the chiller in motion. Personally, I just swirl the chiller because its simple, and I dont have to buy anything else. However, you must take added attention to sanitation with my method.
Keep in mind, the incredible chill times of 5 minutes are only achieved by using a 2nd pump running ice water through the whirlpool chiller.
IncisalEdges 3 years ago
You can get an idea of how well this works with a simple experiment with an ordinary immersion unit when you chill your next batch:
Let the water from your line out run a few seconds, then hold your hand under it. In a few short moments, it will only be marginally warm. Have someone move the immersion chiller in a circular motion, and the waste water will suddenly become hot again. When your assistant stops moving the chiller, the waste water will quickly return to lukewarm.
IncisalEdges 3 years ago
Have you done any tests to see if there is any actual time difference?
I would imagine that this couldn't do anything BUT improve the effectiveness of the chiller, but I am wondering if it is a worthwhile improvement.
I always assumed that natural convection currents would rule out "hot spots", but is the whirling action decreases chilling time by a good ammount then it would be worth it.
However, that being said, I would think a counter-flow chiller would be the better combination.
OPE08 3 years ago 2
The counter flow chiller may chill faster but you are putting your break material into your fermenter.
bluemystic7501 3 years ago
removal of the trub is important, and is going to happen anyway since most homebrewers rack to a secondary within the first few days, no? ( Or uses a conical...) This whirlpool effect stirs the trub up so much that you'd have to wait for it to settle before racking, which would render useless any time savings. I'm not being negative here, its just that the video doesn't explain anything helpful, the CFC seems to be the choice of every homebrewer who can buy or make one...
OPE08 3 years ago
Not just trub; break material. That material usually doesn't affect flavor but will responsible for chill haze. The whirlpool action is great for cooling quickly as it passes hot wort over the cold coils. After 10 minutes, the wort should be in the 80's at which point the IC can be removed, the lid can be put back on and the trub/break material will settle in the center of the pot. 25 mins later the wort can be drained through the ball value into the fermenter and cooled in the fridge.
bluemystic7501 3 years ago
Counterflows don't separate trub. Second of all, with good city water temperatures for the winter, you can knock down wort in 10 to 15 minutes no problem. Third, you don't need to sterilize an immersion chiller. Initial shock does the job just fine.
BeeRich33 2 years ago