@charisk123 A fuse on the primary (AC line) side of the transformer is likely to better protect all of the charger. There isn't a fuse in this unit, but one could easily be added. I didn't think it was terribly necessary.
This is a decent video that explains how to fix an old battery charger by replacing the bad wires. Anyone who does not know much about fixing stuff can learn from others, I learned that in college and I am now a master technician.
All you people who try to degrade the information in this video need to try and make your own video. We will then see that you made mistakes of your own and it is easy to sit back and be a critic judging others.
It is easier to do stuff than to try to teach someone
Just a suggestion for future mods. The ground pin should be mandatory for any appliance with a metal chassis. The whole purpose is to prevent the user from being shocked in the event of a fault condition. Say one of the connections that you repair inside the unit (or one of the connections you don't repair) comes loose and makes contact with the chassis and you un-knowingly touch the unit. Otherwise very good video.
@TheSliekaStyle I think there are lots of people who could do this safely if they knew what was required, what to ask for in a store and what the various internal components do. I enjoyed making it, so that's what is really important.
I have o say once again, i just enjoy the shit outta watchin' your vids Will, i think you have one of those instructional video voices that just gets your attention from the get go, you should consider making instructional vids and selling them, i would buy them for my students, anyway, from an Electronics Engineer to a SELF TAUGHT Computer GURU, my utmost respect my friend, i am ALWAYS looking forward to your vids, keep them comin'! Saludos desde Tijuana, B.C.N.
good simple and straight to the point ! ,I prefer to use heat shrink tubing instead of tape there is a waterproof type which keeps out water
& prevents the connection from going bad as well soldering the ends of the battery clips and using liquid electrical tape is also something I would do. I would like to see that charger that put out seven billion zillion amps HA Ha I ether have one thats around 80 & an old wielder 265 that can recharge battery's or at lest it says so ?
I don't want to sound harsh or anything like that, but I'm not sure I want to do anything on Expert Village. Part of that is because I don't claim to be an expert. :-)
However, I've also received what appears to be spam from them, or at least user accounts on Youtube that are very likely under their control.
Most battery chargers are simple beasts, built around a simple transformer that steps down the AC line voltage to lower voltage AC. This lowered voltage goes to a diode bridge, which rectifies it to DC and ensures that the battery won't backfeed through the charger.
That said, it's not the only way to do it. I have a newer, fancy one that uses a switchmode power supply. It's the same basic concept as a PC power supply, but here it only outputs one voltage. It's also computer controlled, with an STMicroelectronics 50-instruction microcontroller keeping an eye on what the battery is doing and driving a small LED display showing % of charge and voltage.
Would a car amplifier damage it if the the amp it's self consumes 60 amperes? I really wanted to try duplicate this type of power supply but maybe increase the amperage a tad bit. I've been having the amplifer on it for some time and saw no problems, Just very minor heat. Plus i don't listen to it very loudly.
The biggest car battery chargers I've seen can only output around 30 amps at 12 volts DC...and they get plenty hot if you ask them to do it for any length of time.
For your amp, I'd recommend a suitably large bench power supply or even a car battery on a smart charger (one that can kick up its charging rate when needed and then back off to float charging). A bench power supply will be well regulated and ones big enough should be available. They are expensive, though.
The battery-and-float charger idea, however, would be at least somewhat cheaper to implement. And it provides a nice buffer between amp and power.
You might see some battery chargers marketed with high amperage output "jump start" features. These would not be a good substitute--they can't sustain that output, and the voltage drops (usually to 7.2 volts instead of 12).
Your amp is only going to pull those 60 amps at peak output, which you won't hit too often even if you play it fairly loudly.
what fuse will it required in this kind of charger? 12v or 120/240v fuse ?
charisk123 1 year ago
@charisk123 A fuse on the primary (AC line) side of the transformer is likely to better protect all of the charger. There isn't a fuse in this unit, but one could easily be added. I didn't think it was terribly necessary.
uxwbill 1 year ago
@uxwbill 8,7 volts,pretty low
shouldn't it be 12volts or more?
meade9166 2 months ago
@meade9166 This is a charger that can work with six or twelve volt batteries. The lower voltage is used for six volt batteries.
Old cars and tractors use six volt electrical systems, and six volt batteries remain on the market today.
uxwbill 2 months ago
This is a decent video that explains how to fix an old battery charger by replacing the bad wires. Anyone who does not know much about fixing stuff can learn from others, I learned that in college and I am now a master technician.
All you people who try to degrade the information in this video need to try and make your own video. We will then see that you made mistakes of your own and it is easy to sit back and be a critic judging others.
It is easier to do stuff than to try to teach someone
dollman0 1 year ago
@dollman0 That's very well said. Thank you for watching, commenting and +1. :-)
uxwbill 1 year ago
Just a suggestion for future mods. The ground pin should be mandatory for any appliance with a metal chassis. The whole purpose is to prevent the user from being shocked in the event of a fault condition. Say one of the connections that you repair inside the unit (or one of the connections you don't repair) comes loose and makes contact with the chassis and you un-knowingly touch the unit. Otherwise very good video.
0Fluxor0 1 year ago
It wasn't meant as an insult.
MrLeonard55 1 year ago
Your a little long winded.
MrLeonard55 1 year ago
@MrLeonard55 I've been accused of worse. You'll have to try harder. :-)
uxwbill 1 year ago
6min and you just change wires! If some one need this video to do this, better don't even touch electric devices!
TheSliekaStyle 1 year ago
@TheSliekaStyle I think there are lots of people who could do this safely if they knew what was required, what to ask for in a store and what the various internal components do. I enjoyed making it, so that's what is really important.
uxwbill 1 year ago
I have o say once again, i just enjoy the shit outta watchin' your vids Will, i think you have one of those instructional video voices that just gets your attention from the get go, you should consider making instructional vids and selling them, i would buy them for my students, anyway, from an Electronics Engineer to a SELF TAUGHT Computer GURU, my utmost respect my friend, i am ALWAYS looking forward to your vids, keep them comin'! Saludos desde Tijuana, B.C.N.
lenny7494 2 years ago
Hey my battery charger puts out 4,000,000,000 amps.
Redneckbakkie 2 years ago
comment me back
anyone want to chat hu
Alenoid2k8 3 years ago
Thanks for shairing. I really liked it.
RHEAD100 3 years ago
good simple and straight to the point ! ,I prefer to use heat shrink tubing instead of tape there is a waterproof type which keeps out water
& prevents the connection from going bad as well soldering the ends of the battery clips and using liquid electrical tape is also something I would do. I would like to see that charger that put out seven billion zillion amps HA Ha I ether have one thats around 80 & an old wielder 265 that can recharge battery's or at lest it says so ?
panstar1 3 years ago
great tutorial with a touch of humor...you should be on expert village
5 amps
Aslanspal 3 years ago
I don't want to sound harsh or anything like that, but I'm not sure I want to do anything on Expert Village. Part of that is because I don't claim to be an expert. :-)
However, I've also received what appears to be spam from them, or at least user accounts on Youtube that are very likely under their control.
uxwbill 3 years ago
How are battery chargers made?
kskate91 2 years ago
Most battery chargers are simple beasts, built around a simple transformer that steps down the AC line voltage to lower voltage AC. This lowered voltage goes to a diode bridge, which rectifies it to DC and ensures that the battery won't backfeed through the charger.
uxwbill 2 years ago
That said, it's not the only way to do it. I have a newer, fancy one that uses a switchmode power supply. It's the same basic concept as a PC power supply, but here it only outputs one voltage. It's also computer controlled, with an STMicroelectronics 50-instruction microcontroller keeping an eye on what the battery is doing and driving a small LED display showing % of charge and voltage.
uxwbill 2 years ago
Would a car amplifier damage it if the the amp it's self consumes 60 amperes? I really wanted to try duplicate this type of power supply but maybe increase the amperage a tad bit. I've been having the amplifer on it for some time and saw no problems, Just very minor heat. Plus i don't listen to it very loudly.
kskate91 2 years ago
The biggest car battery chargers I've seen can only output around 30 amps at 12 volts DC...and they get plenty hot if you ask them to do it for any length of time.
For your amp, I'd recommend a suitably large bench power supply or even a car battery on a smart charger (one that can kick up its charging rate when needed and then back off to float charging). A bench power supply will be well regulated and ones big enough should be available. They are expensive, though.
uxwbill 2 years ago
The battery-and-float charger idea, however, would be at least somewhat cheaper to implement. And it provides a nice buffer between amp and power.
You might see some battery chargers marketed with high amperage output "jump start" features. These would not be a good substitute--they can't sustain that output, and the voltage drops (usually to 7.2 volts instead of 12).
Your amp is only going to pull those 60 amps at peak output, which you won't hit too often even if you play it fairly loudly.
uxwbill 2 years ago
Ours is 40 amperes for charging and 200 for jumpstarting. Something like that. And yeah i figured those things would cost that much.
kskate91 2 years ago
Great video, nice tutorial. I wished you had let me use the embeding tag for my HTML site about batteries. Thiers some good information here.
chadapilla 3 years ago