Also the OEM setup uses a self-locking flanged nut (not a nut and washer) heavily plated in copper to prevent galling. They come off a heck of a lot nicer, thread up easily, and only cost a buck or two a piece. In the event of breaking a part, used ( affordable) manifolds in good condition are abundant in salvage yards as many cars sit in lot because of blown head gaskets.
FYI - the studs are Magnetic Stainless Steel and are inserted into the cast iron manifolds using an interference fit (~175 in-lb running torque). Use penetrating oil all you want, but its a heck of lot easier putting physics to work for you. A torch to heat the cast iron until to boss is just starting to glow, and the studs come out like butter. The stainless expands less than the cast iron. Crank in new studs with the threads lubed with oil.
Also the OEM setup uses a self-locking flanged nut (not a nut and washer) heavily plated in copper to prevent galling. They come off a heck of a lot nicer, thread up easily, and only cost a buck or two a piece. In the event of breaking a part, used ( affordable) manifolds in good condition are abundant in salvage yards as many cars sit in lot because of blown head gaskets.
TerdFurg3zon 1 year ago
FYI - the studs are Magnetic Stainless Steel and are inserted into the cast iron manifolds using an interference fit (~175 in-lb running torque). Use penetrating oil all you want, but its a heck of lot easier putting physics to work for you. A torch to heat the cast iron until to boss is just starting to glow, and the studs come out like butter. The stainless expands less than the cast iron. Crank in new studs with the threads lubed with oil.
TerdFurg3zon 1 year ago
wow i'm surprised the manifold is cast and not like an actual header like on my car...
you can also use a torch the cut the studs off if there is enough room.
MTR427 2 years ago