Richpin, thanks for another very informative video. I had to swap this part out on an 02 SL1 recently. The back bolt was rusted in and not much fun to remove. I replaced it with a new one of course. I also, messed up the threads on the sway bar and had to use a die to clean them up. I ended up using a big c clamp to pinch the sway bar and remove tension to put the new part in. I was also wondering if you had a video on how to fix weak air flow from the heater blower motor/ducts.
@richpin06a Thanks again. I've noticed that the position selector for the heating/cooling vents sticks a bit as well. I wonder when I changed the blower motor if that I put something in the dash back together incorrectly. I basically had to pull the whole dash apart to fix it. I might wait until warmer weather to try and tear it apart again. Let me know if you think of anything else. Awesome informational videos from you by the way!! The Chilton manual I have doesn't do justice.
Whats the metal part called that goes from the rear wheel to the other rear wheel? It's not an axle or sway bar. The rod that goes from the tire to the metal rear frame is rusted where the rod meets the rear frame.
These thing are a pile of shit. Just this Monday I had took take it to the shop for a brake problem, then come to find out the frame is broke in half. There has also been oilni
Wery good ! I will edd , newer use a socket kricket on start if y'r not sure will bolt go easy ! Better use a T handle if y need a big force on start a than cricket for speed ! Plus , use a heawy glowes when y an tightening shasy parts and old fabrick to protect y'r fist cicking on metall if the tool slips ! Use a carbon grease for bolts throw silant blocks steel tubes ! Regards !
Thank you. Getting the control arm off was the easy part. Getting the ball joint back into the steering knuckle was a beast. Not sure why it was such a pain in the rear.
@richpin06a Can u help me Sir, on the road, I have to put a little pressure on the steering to the left, but this results in the car suddenly jerking to the left when it hit bumpy surfaces, is this because of the lower control arm being defective? Coz I've done alignment already but no change
@richpin06a Well , I 've changed the lower control arm, and it is indeed the culprit, my car is back to it's normal condition now, hopefully it'll last for one year
I did this job yesterday and for the most part, it went smoothly. I did get ahead of myself and removed the bolt/nut before I should which caused the bushing end to get twisted in the cradle. My bolt was in perfect condition, no rust. You can use an impact wrench to get the 24mm nut off, but I'd use a torque wrench to put it back on. I set the wrench to be around 103-106 ft/lbs. I used one of those ratcheting tie-downs to place tension on the stabilizer bar.
@richpin06a I'm sure. I guess that's one difference between living here in TN vs. MA. Our winters are milder so we use less salt. Maybe that's where all of the rust comes from. I sprayed some Liquid Wrench on the bolt before I started in on this as a precautionary measure. I got lucky on this job and got to use a garage with a lift so I didn't have to use jack stands this time. Doing this job tightened the steering and got rid of a clunking noise when going over speed bumps and in potholes
You have the car on jack stands. I have jack stands but have never used them on my '99 SC1. Is there a video where you discuss the placement of these stands, because I can't find one on youtube. On a Saturn forum I can see roughly where they might go but you know, it's a drawing and a real picture or video will help.
I found out my control arm was bad when my stabilizer bar got dislocated where it connects to the control arm. I asked a mechanic about the stabilizer bar and I was told that I really don't even need one, most cars don't have them. Any opinions on that? It would be a lot easier to just remove it and put on a new control arm. My problem is the tension is off of the stabilizer bar and I don't have one of those hand winches to add the tension back on it.
took care of both sides this morning...of course the first side I did the bolt that holds the arm to the frame came loose, but would not clear the arm...I had to use alot of WD-40...and work the bolt back and forth 4-5 times before it finally slid out...it was rough, but stay with it and it will eventually get out....Thanks for the video richpin!
How do you know that the control arm needs replacing. Because when i turn left, my passenger side wheel makes a grinding noise, but when im driving straight its fine. Its a 93 saturn sc2.
@campauchicken most likely its the lower control arm , i got mine checked out by my mechanic and it does what ur car does, specially when i go over a bump or rock theres foreplay like crazy
@nobsaroundhere Eh, actually after i just took the wheel off, my brake bad had slipped out of place a bit, so when i turned left it would grind into the rotor. Simple fix. :)
I just had to replace both lower control arms on a 2007 Dodge Caliber along with both outer tie rod ends. I thought I could press the ball joints out of the control arms, but I tried and tried, it would not press out of the arm. They appear to be factory pressed and crimped the the arm permanantly. Had to replace the whole lower arm as an assembly, the bushings were shot anyway. Hardest part was trying to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle, what a bitch, LOL!
Hi Rich I have a 97 Dakota, been having problems with the arm control; noises and the car squeeze when I go over a speed bump or a bumped road, my mechanic tied the bolt it was loose,but he said I should have replace it, is just not safe , that was 2 months ago .
Anyway I got the parts;bolt joints and I'm thinking to replace the shocks to.
I'm planing to do it myself with the help of a friend, I never done it before, any tips or advise? Thank you so much I will watch the video right now.
hey rich, 2001 chevy blazer 4wd, everytime i get in my wifes vehicle when she makes a right, i here like a cluncking sound. is this a bad ball joint? thanks rich also a great video.
Wondering if I have a control arm/ball joint issue. My 1993 SL2 car seems very unsteady from side to side especially when turning left the car almost wants to veer to the right. It fact so much swaying the stabilizer bar broke on the right side and needed to be replaced.
Wondering if I have a control arm/ball joint issue. My 1993 SL2 car seems very unsteady from side to side especially when turning left the car almost wants to veer to the right. It fact so much swaying the stabilizer bar broke on the right side and needed to be replaced.
I hit a curb in my 2001 S Series and bent the control arm AND the stabilizer bar. I will replacing the control arm (hopefully) this weekend, but I cannot find a stabilizer bar on any of the online dealers. Would the car be safe/pass inspection if I just removed the stabilizer bar? Or should I start shopping the bone yards? I really need it back on the road!!
@hondaboy6296 NO do not try and drive without the bar because it is much more than a stabilizer it holds the arm in place.Check your inbox i will send you some info.
@richpin06a Yeah I wasn't sure of the difference between this stabilizer bar and a sway bar. Others had told me they ran their car without a sway bar, but were unsure if this was the same on the Saturn. Thanks...
can i ask would a worn lower control arm give you a hollow knock when driving through a pot hole ???? i am stumped as to know whats wrong with my motor but this seems my last shot!!!!
@drewenoch If the lower ball joint is no good you can use a pickle fork.Just remember when you use this tool it will render the balljoint/control arm unserviceable because it will cut the boot.
Hey Richpin, check out my post on the saturnfan forums;
saturnfans...
/forums/showthread.php?p=1722828#post1722828
I believe that the lower controll arms on my 2000 Saturn LS2 (L-Series) are screwed up because the camber is WAYY off, and listen to the squeek! Link to my youtube video is in the thread. Thanks!
Rich, thanks so much for your video. The ball joint assembly of my car is similar to the one in your video, in that the locking nut is so close to the CV joint that it is impossible to remove the nut until the ball joint is loosened. The proper way is to use a ball joint separator with a very flat head to push the nut downwards but that special tool is too expensive ( etsimated USD 50). Your method has showed me the cheap alternative way using a hammer and a metal rod. Thks so much.
i hit a curb and the right wheel is bacj. i took it to garage and they replaced both LCA as left one too was worn. now its fixed but the right wheel is still further back than the left and when i turn full lokc right the right wheel is hitting scraping the mudflap/rim. should they fix this for free and what is wrong?
@richpin06a ok thanks for reply. now today i noticed that the left wheel is infact further back like the right. this since replacing the part. have they put the wrong part on or have they messed up on the alignment
@richpin06a ok thanks will replace castle nut before bar on the driver's side. Got it done though. We bend an inch pipe trying to get the ball joint back in the knuckle. Took a crowbar with a biggggg pipe wrench on the handle. You're a good man dude
I hit my front tire on the curb. I was told I have to replace the spindle, control arm and tire rod. They want to charge 5 hrs of labour. Does that sound right on a Chevrolet Impala 2004. Total parts + labour being $1000.
thanks for the tips! had a mechanic try to tell me that my cv joint casing was where my balljoint was! The rubber on the cv joint is a little cracked and the mechanic thought it was my ball joint! I like to do my own repair work on my vehicles and thanks to people like you, I can do this all by myself! Thanks once again! And Soupy the ball joint is encased in the control arm on saturn s series
Does the prybar and shocking the knuckle with a hammer always work for seperating ball joint tapers or are some too stubbon for this method? I hit mine much harder than shown in the video but couldn't break the taper free; just made loads of rust and dust fall down I hit it sooooo hard !
@OnTheBall20 Yes i have run into some stubborn ones that just would not budge so i used my trusty pickle fork.If you use that tool just make sure the ball joint needs replacing because it cuts the boot on the joint.
I need to replace the lower control arm (front passanger side) on my saturn vue, the process is similar just the control arm is different; a couple a days a go I hit a curb and the arm bent (too much snow on a traffic circle) everything else looks fine, Do you recommend a wheel aligment? thanks.
@salmtzo You might be able to get away without a alignment if it did not bend anything else under there.But to be on the safe side common wisdom would say do an alignment.
I have an 95 Acura integra making squeaky noise when I turn and when I goes over bumps. Until now my biggest suspicion is that the control arm bushings are gone. Would it be cheaper to just change the bushings instead of the whole control arm? I was greasing them before it got cold here, but I don't have a garage and working outside is inconvenient (specially with an annoying lanlord) and the squeaky noise is becoming unbearable. Thanks
The Chevy dealer says my daughter needs lower control arm bushing for her 2003 Alero. I had a look and it has a different style arm than you have done here. It would be helpfull if you ever do one of those to post it here.
How do i replace the bushing that is where the sway bar connects to the control arm right before it connects to the ball joint? Mine is literally non existent. Are they pressed in? hard to replace?
Thank you....i'm from the uk and would never work on a Saturn but your procedures and tips were very useful for any cars. I will apply them to my work from now on..
Once again, thanks Richpin. I FINALLY had the time to do this little project. Went much quicker than I thought. The hardest part was the damn cotter pins of all things. The old ones were just a bear to get out. What a difference the new arms make in the front end.
Super! But a question: I'm replacing the lower control arm on a '95 SL2. Control arm is torqued up at the cradle and sway bar bolts and I'm ready to put the ball stud back into the steering knuckle, but I can't see how to get them to align. For description purposes, it seems like the control arm needs to be a half inch longer from the sway bar bolt to the ball stud. That would allow the stud to line up with the knuckle hole. Pry or lift something differently than I have?
I just did my drivers side w/o a come-along, or winch. Took the cradle bolt out first, the stabilizer nut off, the ball joint off, I did use a pipe as a pry bar.
New one went on in reverse. Ball joint, stabilizer bar then cradle bolt. I used a pair of pliers wedged into the cradle on top of control arm to keep the control arm down to line-up with bolt hole. I had to push on the wheel to get cradle bolt in, that was the work.
I have an 02 Toyota Echo that needed the clutch replaced. There is no repair manual for the Echo (like the Chilton) I got stuck on how to remove the lower control arm. I get it now. Thank you!!! You saved me several hundred dollars. THANK YOU!!!
Thanks! You saved me over $800--thats the lowest we got quoted from a mechanic, we needed to replace both control arms with the ball joints integraded into them. We bought the parts for our saturn sl2 1990, and we were able to replace them ourselves after watching this! Thank you!
i have 2005 accord and i hit the curb couple of months ago and my right side wheel is like pushed back towards the fender , there is no noise or hard pulling to the right side but it does want to go a little to the right , anyone knows what could be the cause of it , i mean what things should i be looking at to check if there is any bent or anything else. can someone please tell me what should i check ?
I just did the same thing to my acura integra i went in got it looked at and it was the Lower control arm bent, strut was also bent, knuckle had to be replaced, ball bearing, rim, and they said the steering rack was leeking could have been from hitting the curb but i looked and did not see any leeks so i think they were just trying to get some extra money out of me.
Success! But, not typical. I first pried the LCA out of the cradle while it was still attached to the SB. I had to first loosen the SBs mounting bracket bolts (front of frame) nearest medrivers side; gave me sufficient room to clear the cradle. Then, I rocked the LCA off of the SBs bolt. Really tight fit (rubber on metal); thats all it was. Had no troubles removing the 2nd (passenger side) LCA; came right off. Thanks again rich. Best of luck to you.
Whew. Still can't separate the LCA from the SB. Doesn't budge (inward/outward). Hammered on it. Even tried using the winch to pull the LCA off the SB's bolt. You think its welded via rust? I can rotate LCA around the SB's bolt only as much as the LCA cradle (on the frame) allows me to (perhaps 1 centimeter); so, can't understand why rust would be an issue, if it is. Any help is appreciated in advance. Sort of losing hope. Les
Hi. How much tension to put on the stabilizer bar with the ratchet/chain? I can't seem to separate the lower control arm (LCA) from the stabilizer bar (SB). Everything else is detached from the LCA. Yes, the bolt thru the LCA from the SB is a little rusty. I'm using a good lubricant though.
Thank you rich. That's what I thought; but, best to hear it from a pro like you. I'll give it a 2nd try. I really appreciate what you've done here! Best regards! Les.
how can i replace my lower ball joints on a 98 olds bravada. its 4 wheel drive. i did it b4 and it was a bitch. the ball joints are pre-pressed. the first time i managed to finagle the ball joint into the knuckle is there an easier way. or do i have to disconnect the drive axle to put the ball joint in the knuckle, then on to the control arm. the other time i put the joint into the control arm and managed to get the knuckle down far enough to get the ball joint on. is there an easier way thanks
use a moog peice in canada i spent 160.00$ but i work in a parts department so i got a deal the moog peice sells for 220.00 $ with a lifetime warrenty'
a white box no name is junk it well work for a bit then brake again u can buy it fo rhalf price but if u replace it it adds up to a moog peice
Richpin, thanks for another very informative video. I had to swap this part out on an 02 SL1 recently. The back bolt was rusted in and not much fun to remove. I replaced it with a new one of course. I also, messed up the threads on the sway bar and had to use a die to clean them up. I ended up using a big c clamp to pinch the sway bar and remove tension to put the new part in. I was also wondering if you had a video on how to fix weak air flow from the heater blower motor/ducts.
okinawa1990to2001 4 days ago
@okinawa1990to2001 The only one i have that might be of help is "Checking For Debris at Air Conditioner Evaporator Core"
richpin06a 3 days ago
@richpin06a Thanks again. I've noticed that the position selector for the heating/cooling vents sticks a bit as well. I wonder when I changed the blower motor if that I put something in the dash back together incorrectly. I basically had to pull the whole dash apart to fix it. I might wait until warmer weather to try and tear it apart again. Let me know if you think of anything else. Awesome informational videos from you by the way!! The Chilton manual I have doesn't do justice.
okinawa1990to2001 3 days ago
You refitted an old part. Stabliser bush is loose. ie worn
moviejacker 2 weeks ago
Rich, can you use an oxy/acetylene torch to loosen that nut/bolt?
RandallFlaggNY 1 month ago
@RandallFlaggNY You mean that nasty bolt that likes to rust into the control arm and subframe.
richpin06a 1 month ago
@richpin06a Yup.
RandallFlaggNY 1 month ago
@RandallFlaggNY That would be how i would tackle it if my air chisel would not drive it out.I would use heat and penetrating oil.
richpin06a 1 month ago
@richpin06a Thanks.
RandallFlaggNY 1 month ago
Whats the metal part called that goes from the rear wheel to the other rear wheel? It's not an axle or sway bar. The rod that goes from the tire to the metal rear frame is rusted where the rod meets the rear frame.
thepowerfulnews 1 month ago
@thepowerfulnews Sounds like you are talking about the Lateral Links there are four of them.
richpin06a 1 month ago
@richpin06a No not that either. I think it's called the rear sub frame?
thepowerfulnews 1 month ago
Accident,. There has also been oil in the air box, holes burned through the plastic from the exhaust, axle problems, and electronics went out
sbarnett80 1 month ago
These thing are a pile of shit. Just this Monday I had took take it to the shop for a brake problem, then come to find out the frame is broke in half. There has also been oilni
sbarnett80 1 month ago
nice music :D
TheUnknownpersuader 1 month ago
What was the smoke coming from after you hit it with a hammer?
sirreginaldthe4th 2 months ago
@sirreginaldthe4th It would have to be brake dust or there are ghosts in the garage.
richpin06a 2 months ago
what are those ramps called that you drove the car onto? i need to get some my TA is way to low for a conventional floor jack
SatanTrain 2 months ago
@SatanTrain They are old metal ramps.
richpin06a 2 months ago
Wery good ! I will edd , newer use a socket kricket on start if y'r not sure will bolt go easy ! Better use a T handle if y need a big force on start a than cricket for speed ! Plus , use a heawy glowes when y an tightening shasy parts and old fabrick to protect y'r fist cicking on metall if the tool slips ! Use a carbon grease for bolts throw silant blocks steel tubes ! Regards !
crnogor 2 months ago
looks like a one beer job
rednecknber 2 months ago
@rednecknber Better have a six pack just in case.
richpin06a 2 months ago
Thank you. Getting the control arm off was the easy part. Getting the ball joint back into the steering knuckle was a beast. Not sure why it was such a pain in the rear.
theycallmeidnam 2 months ago
Is there any way to do this without using a hand wench to take the tension off the tension strut?
theycallmeidnam 2 months ago
@theycallmeidnam You might be able to use a prybar.
richpin06a 2 months ago
@richpin06a Can u help me Sir, on the road, I have to put a little pressure on the steering to the left, but this results in the car suddenly jerking to the left when it hit bumpy surfaces, is this because of the lower control arm being defective? Coz I've done alignment already but no change
worldpeace32 2 months ago
@worldpeace32 It could be, that front end needs to be thoroughly looked at.
richpin06a 2 months ago
@richpin06a Well , I 've changed the lower control arm, and it is indeed the culprit, my car is back to it's normal condition now, hopefully it'll last for one year
worldpeace32 2 months ago
I did this job yesterday and for the most part, it went smoothly. I did get ahead of myself and removed the bolt/nut before I should which caused the bushing end to get twisted in the cradle. My bolt was in perfect condition, no rust. You can use an impact wrench to get the 24mm nut off, but I'd use a torque wrench to put it back on. I set the wrench to be around 103-106 ft/lbs. I used one of those ratcheting tie-downs to place tension on the stabilizer bar.
samuelbrainsample 3 months ago
@samuelbrainsample When that control arm bolt rusts in that is when the job gets a little tough.
richpin06a 3 months ago
@richpin06a I'm sure. I guess that's one difference between living here in TN vs. MA. Our winters are milder so we use less salt. Maybe that's where all of the rust comes from. I sprayed some Liquid Wrench on the bolt before I started in on this as a precautionary measure. I got lucky on this job and got to use a garage with a lift so I didn't have to use jack stands this time. Doing this job tightened the steering and got rid of a clunking noise when going over speed bumps and in potholes
samuelbrainsample 3 months ago
You have the car on jack stands. I have jack stands but have never used them on my '99 SC1. Is there a video where you discuss the placement of these stands, because I can't find one on youtube. On a Saturn forum I can see roughly where they might go but you know, it's a drawing and a real picture or video will help.
samuelbrainsample 3 months ago
@samuelbrainsample I put it on my list and hope to have it for you for the weekend.
richpin06a 3 months ago
@richpin06a Well, thanks! I owe you a beer or something should I ever be in MA.
samuelbrainsample 3 months ago
any other way i can hold the stabalizer bar?
gripz106 4 months ago
You cant just drill the bolt to the shank diameter until the head pops off to get a stuck one out?
Breathlesssight 4 months ago
A cheap job to replace both and the center piece at any mechanic.
17370tally 5 months ago
I found out my control arm was bad when my stabilizer bar got dislocated where it connects to the control arm. I asked a mechanic about the stabilizer bar and I was told that I really don't even need one, most cars don't have them. Any opinions on that? It would be a lot easier to just remove it and put on a new control arm. My problem is the tension is off of the stabilizer bar and I don't have one of those hand winches to add the tension back on it.
dadoggy03 5 months ago
@dadoggy03 Im sure you figured it out by now, but did you try a decent ratchet strap?
ABSLTVOKA 3 months ago
took care of both sides this morning...of course the first side I did the bolt that holds the arm to the frame came loose, but would not clear the arm...I had to use alot of WD-40...and work the bolt back and forth 4-5 times before it finally slid out...it was rough, but stay with it and it will eventually get out....Thanks for the video richpin!
abbondanza23 5 months ago
@abbondanza23 That bolt is the worse part of the whole job no doubt.
richpin06a 5 months ago
wow, you made this look easy. i'm about to change mine. looks like this video will help me. thank you
Jerm088 6 months ago
How do you know that the control arm needs replacing. Because when i turn left, my passenger side wheel makes a grinding noise, but when im driving straight its fine. Its a 93 saturn sc2.
campauchicken 6 months ago
@campauchicken Jack up the car and move the tire from side to side while looking for play.
richpin06a 6 months ago
@richpin06a I did, theres no play when moving tire up and down, but when i move it side to side there is a little play, not a lot, but a little.
campauchicken 6 months ago
@campauchicken most likely its the lower control arm , i got mine checked out by my mechanic and it does what ur car does, specially when i go over a bump or rock theres foreplay like crazy
nobsaroundhere 6 months ago
@nobsaroundhere Eh, actually after i just took the wheel off, my brake bad had slipped out of place a bit, so when i turned left it would grind into the rotor. Simple fix. :)
campauchicken 5 months ago
I just had to replace both lower control arms on a 2007 Dodge Caliber along with both outer tie rod ends. I thought I could press the ball joints out of the control arms, but I tried and tried, it would not press out of the arm. They appear to be factory pressed and crimped the the arm permanantly. Had to replace the whole lower arm as an assembly, the bushings were shot anyway. Hardest part was trying to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle, what a bitch, LOL!
mrstrictlygm 7 months ago
@mrstrictlygm I feel your pain not much fun i know.
richpin06a 7 months ago
DO you *really* have to drop the gas tank to replace the bushings on the Rear Lower control arm on a Saturn L200 (2001)?
I'm told that I have to do that. Or can I get around it?
thelaughingjack 7 months ago
@thelaughingjack I am not sure about dropping the gas tank because i do not have any first hand knowledge of the L series in this area.
richpin06a 7 months ago
Comment removed
thelaughingjack 7 months ago
Hi Rich I have a 97 Dakota, been having problems with the arm control; noises and the car squeeze when I go over a speed bump or a bumped road, my mechanic tied the bolt it was loose,but he said I should have replace it, is just not safe , that was 2 months ago .
Anyway I got the parts;bolt joints and I'm thinking to replace the shocks to.
I'm planing to do it myself with the help of a friend, I never done it before, any tips or advise? Thank you so much I will watch the video right now.
euro11AG 7 months ago
@euro11AG I believe there is a video somewhere on youtube were they are changing a ball joint on a dodge truck which will be of some help.
richpin06a 7 months ago
Great video Rich. Thanks a bunch!
scaldinghotcoffee 8 months ago
hey rich, 2001 chevy blazer 4wd, everytime i get in my wifes vehicle when she makes a right, i here like a cluncking sound. is this a bad ball joint? thanks rich also a great video.
reddog9401 8 months ago
@reddog9401 A clicking could be a possible CV joint and clunking could be a possible ball joint.
richpin06a 8 months ago
Wondering if I have a control arm/ball joint issue. My 1993 SL2 car seems very unsteady from side to side especially when turning left the car almost wants to veer to the right. It fact so much swaying the stabilizer bar broke on the right side and needed to be replaced.
newbrighton1961 8 months ago
@newbrighton1961 Yes it sounds like a control arm ball joint or tie rod problem.
richpin06a 8 months ago
Wondering if I have a control arm/ball joint issue. My 1993 SL2 car seems very unsteady from side to side especially when turning left the car almost wants to veer to the right. It fact so much swaying the stabilizer bar broke on the right side and needed to be replaced.
newbrighton1961 8 months ago
I hit a curb in my 2001 S Series and bent the control arm AND the stabilizer bar. I will replacing the control arm (hopefully) this weekend, but I cannot find a stabilizer bar on any of the online dealers. Would the car be safe/pass inspection if I just removed the stabilizer bar? Or should I start shopping the bone yards? I really need it back on the road!!
hondaboy6296 8 months ago
@hondaboy6296 NO do not try and drive without the bar because it is much more than a stabilizer it holds the arm in place.Check your inbox i will send you some info.
richpin06a 8 months ago
@richpin06a Yeah I wasn't sure of the difference between this stabilizer bar and a sway bar. Others had told me they ran their car without a sway bar, but were unsure if this was the same on the Saturn. Thanks...
hondaboy6296 8 months ago
can i ask would a worn lower control arm give you a hollow knock when driving through a pot hole ???? i am stumped as to know whats wrong with my motor but this seems my last shot!!!!
harveydog2006 8 months ago
@harveydog2006 Could be sounds like a suspension part is worn under there somewhere.
richpin06a 8 months ago
Thank you for the video, 6 minutes of your time has helped me and my family greatly in this bad economy.
roggom 8 months ago
@roggom That makes me feel good that i could help someone in need.
richpin06a 8 months ago
Thanks for the video. Your video helped me fix my Mercury Topaz and it made more sense than my Haynes Manual. The Come-Along trick worked great.
clockguy2 8 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
This Dude sounds like Peter Griffin, "Stabiliser Baaar" lol
DazTDCi 9 months ago
This Dude sounds like Peter Griffin lol
DazTDCi 9 months ago
@DazTDCi ray ramano maybe?
codyc9jb 8 months ago
I've been told the best and cheapest penetrating oil you can get is a homemade a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
clockguy2 9 months ago
@clockguy2 interesting i have not heard that.
richpin06a 9 months ago
I'm trying to remove the control arm on my Saturn S series, and I can't break it free, even with tons of pressure and shocking the knuckle. Any tips?
drewenoch 9 months ago
@drewenoch If the lower ball joint is no good you can use a pickle fork.Just remember when you use this tool it will render the balljoint/control arm unserviceable because it will cut the boot.
richpin06a 9 months ago
@richpin06a The ball joint is good, it's just stuck. I need to get the axle off to get to the transmission.
drewenoch 9 months ago
@drewenoch then you need a ball joint separator
richpin06a 9 months ago
@richpin06a Thanks a ton. Your videos are very informative. Best there is.
drewenoch 9 months ago
@drewenoch thank you
richpin06a 9 months ago
and there it is..
blackbeauty528 9 months ago
excellent background tunes. thanks for the vid.
oldbrown78 9 months ago
Have you had any experience replacing lower control arm bushings on a Dodge Neon? If so, might you be able to provide steps on the procedure. Thanks.
tractortom51 9 months ago
@tractortom51 Not as of yet
richpin06a 9 months ago
when the hell did Ray Romano start working on cars?
lonechubby 10 months ago 17
@lonechubby When everyone loves raymond got canceled
richpin06a 10 months ago 11
@richpin06a hahahah but thanks for the video i'm gonna try this on a truck this is the closest video i could find
lonechubby 10 months ago
Hey Richpin, check out my post on the saturnfan forums;
saturnfans...
/forums/showthread.php?p=1722828#post1722828
I believe that the lower controll arms on my 2000 Saturn LS2 (L-Series) are screwed up because the camber is WAYY off, and listen to the squeek! Link to my youtube video is in the thread. Thanks!
Jonnyferrari202 10 months ago
Rich, thanks so much for your video. The ball joint assembly of my car is similar to the one in your video, in that the locking nut is so close to the CV joint that it is impossible to remove the nut until the ball joint is loosened. The proper way is to use a ball joint separator with a very flat head to push the nut downwards but that special tool is too expensive ( etsimated USD 50). Your method has showed me the cheap alternative way using a hammer and a metal rod. Thks so much.
opsvideo2008 11 months ago
i hit a curb and the right wheel is bacj. i took it to garage and they replaced both LCA as left one too was worn. now its fixed but the right wheel is still further back than the left and when i turn full lokc right the right wheel is hitting scraping the mudflap/rim. should they fix this for free and what is wrong?
raikkonen85 1 year ago
@raikkonen85 There is a good chance the tension strut bent
richpin06a 1 year ago
@richpin06a ok thanks for reply. now today i noticed that the left wheel is infact further back like the right. this since replacing the part. have they put the wrong part on or have they messed up on the alignment
raikkonen85 1 year ago
@raikkonen85 That's pretty terrible if the garage let you drive away like that. You might wanna find a new garage.
TripleHomicide 11 months ago
Do you take off the tension after you're ready to put the tire back on or before?
Also, I think maybe putting on and tightening the castle nut should come before installing the stabilizer nut and washer. Is this correct?
mjoekingz28 1 year ago
@mjoekingz28 I tighten everything before i put on the tire and i tighten the ball joint nut before the stablizer nut.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@richpin06a ok thanks will replace castle nut before bar on the driver's side. Got it done though. We bend an inch pipe trying to get the ball joint back in the knuckle. Took a crowbar with a biggggg pipe wrench on the handle. You're a good man dude
mjoekingz28 1 year ago
I hit my front tire on the curb. I was told I have to replace the spindle, control arm and tire rod. They want to charge 5 hrs of labour. Does that sound right on a Chevrolet Impala 2004. Total parts + labour being $1000.
saywow2002 1 year ago
@saywow2002 5 hrs seems right
richpin06a 1 year ago
Someone said you need to torque the bolts with the tire installed and on the ground. Is this true RichPin?
mjoekingz28 1 year ago
@mjoekingz28 It would be a little differcult to get at the bolts when the car is on the ground.
richpin06a 1 year ago
i wasnt here for a moment and my whife disliked your video. Sorry bout that.:)
flavius22 1 year ago
thanks for the tips! had a mechanic try to tell me that my cv joint casing was where my balljoint was! The rubber on the cv joint is a little cracked and the mechanic thought it was my ball joint! I like to do my own repair work on my vehicles and thanks to people like you, I can do this all by myself! Thanks once again! And Soupy the ball joint is encased in the control arm on saturn s series
RoxyPyy 1 year ago
can i heat it up also to get it loose
hp11208 1 year ago
@hp11208 What part do you want to heat
richpin06a 1 year ago
Does the prybar and shocking the knuckle with a hammer always work for seperating ball joint tapers or are some too stubbon for this method? I hit mine much harder than shown in the video but couldn't break the taper free; just made loads of rust and dust fall down I hit it sooooo hard !
OnTheBall20 1 year ago
@OnTheBall20 Yes i have run into some stubborn ones that just would not budge so i used my trusty pickle fork.If you use that tool just make sure the ball joint needs replacing because it cuts the boot on the joint.
richpin06a 1 year ago
I need to replace the lower control arm (front passanger side) on my saturn vue, the process is similar just the control arm is different; a couple a days a go I hit a curb and the arm bent (too much snow on a traffic circle) everything else looks fine, Do you recommend a wheel aligment? thanks.
salmtzo 1 year ago
@salmtzo You might be able to get away without a alignment if it did not bend anything else under there.But to be on the safe side common wisdom would say do an alignment.
richpin06a 1 year ago
I have an 95 Acura integra making squeaky noise when I turn and when I goes over bumps. Until now my biggest suspicion is that the control arm bushings are gone. Would it be cheaper to just change the bushings instead of the whole control arm? I was greasing them before it got cold here, but I don't have a garage and working outside is inconvenient (specially with an annoying lanlord) and the squeaky noise is becoming unbearable. Thanks
cuchillo87 1 year ago
@cuchillo87 Most of the time it is cheaper to replace the bushings.For dried rubber bushings brake fluid can quite them for awile.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@cuchillo87 There is almost never a need to replace the whole control arm unless it is cracked or something like that.
s0upy119 1 year ago
Quick question !. My car started shaking badly when i went over 80mph.Ball joint failure ?
ferrari1305 1 year ago
@ferrari1305 It could be a ball joint or tie rod problem.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@ferrari1305 wheel balancing, sway bar links, check those before ball joint
Bryanx89 1 year ago
I just accidentally my ball joint.
TEHSWOLEONE 1 year ago
is it the same process for a 92 acura legend?
WesWes714 1 year ago
@WesWes714 I think the acura is quite a bit different than this one.
richpin06a 1 year ago
@richpin06a it was a shit load different but i did it on the same principal so it turned out ok just need a alingment now but thanks
WesWes714 1 year ago
omg thats bull.. (sigh) he makes it look so easy wen i couldnt even get the damn balljoint off the lca..
sctflasher379 1 year ago
The Chevy dealer says my daughter needs lower control arm bushing for her 2003 Alero. I had a look and it has a different style arm than you have done here. It would be helpfull if you ever do one of those to post it here.
sloepok 1 year ago
that looks alot like a control arm from a ford granada uk version , but clearly this is from a bemmer
brother776 1 year ago
How do i replace the bushing that is where the sway bar connects to the control arm right before it connects to the ball joint? Mine is literally non existent. Are they pressed in? hard to replace?
amorgan93 1 year ago
thank you
scoot4t 1 year ago
can a bent lower control be the purpose for my wheel being bent back??
scoot4t 1 year ago
@scoot4t Yes it can also the spindle
richpin06a 1 year ago
I like the classic music!
jun19020987 1 year ago
why did you use a chain attached to the subframe
Nottotv 1 year ago
@Nottotv To relieve the tension on the control arm.
richpin06a 1 year ago
how about for the people that don't have hand wenches?
holmesnmanning 1 year ago
Thank you....i'm from the uk and would never work on a Saturn but your procedures and tips were very useful for any cars. I will apply them to my work from now on..
Thank you again and good luck.
t2p 1 year ago
if you have to cut the bolt that hold the control arm to the sub frame, where can you go to get a replacement bolt for it.
zachlightsabe 1 year ago
@zachlightsabe In my area i would try NAPA first then the industrial supply store.
richpin06a 1 year ago
how hard is it to do a lower control arm on a dodge neon 2002 rf thanks
wildwind03 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
What a great video! Thank You! I think it's great some of you mechanics take the time to do this for us newbies! Awesome!
grcain 1 year ago
What a great video. I think it's awesome that you mechanics take the time to do this for us newbs! Thanks so much!
grcain 1 year ago
Once again, thanks Richpin. I FINALLY had the time to do this little project. Went much quicker than I thought. The hardest part was the damn cotter pins of all things. The old ones were just a bear to get out. What a difference the new arms make in the front end.
ijetmx 1 year ago
Super! But a question: I'm replacing the lower control arm on a '95 SL2. Control arm is torqued up at the cradle and sway bar bolts and I'm ready to put the ball stud back into the steering knuckle, but I can't see how to get them to align. For description purposes, it seems like the control arm needs to be a half inch longer from the sway bar bolt to the ball stud. That would allow the stud to line up with the knuckle hole. Pry or lift something differently than I have?
johndhupp 1 year ago
@johndhupp You can try removing the tie rod from the knuckle which would give you some extra movement.
richpin06a 1 year ago
Thanks for video, some nice explaining!
kiepieful 1 year ago
LMFAO backyard butcher in action!
HunterCO1 1 year ago
Thank you. Now really understand what are the bushings are!
Almera101 1 year ago
I just did my drivers side w/o a come-along, or winch. Took the cradle bolt out first, the stabilizer nut off, the ball joint off, I did use a pipe as a pry bar.
New one went on in reverse. Ball joint, stabilizer bar then cradle bolt. I used a pair of pliers wedged into the cradle on top of control arm to keep the control arm down to line-up with bolt hole. I had to push on the wheel to get cradle bolt in, that was the work.
Got the control arms on ebay-$78 for both L&R
generatrix999 1 year ago
whoa picasso enuf anti seize
CdnSpecOps 1 year ago
Dust In The Wind!!!
Sr2D 1 year ago
great great video
joelin66 1 year ago
nice vid i may be doing this tomorrow to replace the sway bar to lower control arm bushing.
ps i love the hammer and the ratchet trick.
kylegaser 1 year ago
I have an 02 Toyota Echo that needed the clutch replaced. There is no repair manual for the Echo (like the Chilton) I got stuck on how to remove the lower control arm. I get it now. Thank you!!! You saved me several hundred dollars. THANK YOU!!!
csipek2005 2 years ago
you are cool rich
MrDrumxpert 2 years ago
Well if you had not posted this, we would have been SOL, so we appreciate you doing videos like this =]
Can you do more on the saturn s series so we can fix our car whenever we have problems?
AprilDriesse08 2 years ago
Thanks! You saved me over $800--thats the lowest we got quoted from a mechanic, we needed to replace both control arms with the ball joints integraded into them. We bought the parts for our saturn sl2 1990, and we were able to replace them ourselves after watching this! Thank you!
AprilDriesse08 2 years ago 10
That's What I Like to Hear....good job
richpin06a 2 years ago
Thanks for posting this. Saved over $100 doing this myself. I dont have a hand winch so I used a ratchet strap instead, works fine.
welove80s2 2 years ago
i have 2005 accord and i hit the curb couple of months ago and my right side wheel is like pushed back towards the fender , there is no noise or hard pulling to the right side but it does want to go a little to the right , anyone knows what could be the cause of it , i mean what things should i be looking at to check if there is any bent or anything else. can someone please tell me what should i check ?
mysatellitea40 2 years ago
I just did the same thing to my acura integra i went in got it looked at and it was the Lower control arm bent, strut was also bent, knuckle had to be replaced, ball bearing, rim, and they said the steering rack was leeking could have been from hitting the curb but i looked and did not see any leeks so i think they were just trying to get some extra money out of me.
Match90 2 years ago
you bent something probly the lower controll arm of tie rod
lovemym16 2 years ago
that was not new
rednecknber 2 years ago
Success! But, not typical. I first pried the LCA out of the cradle while it was still attached to the SB. I had to first loosen the SBs mounting bracket bolts (front of frame) nearest medrivers side; gave me sufficient room to clear the cradle. Then, I rocked the LCA off of the SBs bolt. Really tight fit (rubber on metal); thats all it was. Had no troubles removing the 2nd (passenger side) LCA; came right off. Thanks again rich. Best of luck to you.
LesTrafik 2 years ago
Whew. Still can't separate the LCA from the SB. Doesn't budge (inward/outward). Hammered on it. Even tried using the winch to pull the LCA off the SB's bolt. You think its welded via rust? I can rotate LCA around the SB's bolt only as much as the LCA cradle (on the frame) allows me to (perhaps 1 centimeter); so, can't understand why rust would be an issue, if it is. Any help is appreciated in advance. Sort of losing hope. Les
LesTrafik 2 years ago
They can rust on there pretty bad just like rusted brake drums.All you can do is keep pounding and using penetrating oil.
richpin06a 2 years ago
Hi. How much tension to put on the stabilizer bar with the ratchet/chain? I can't seem to separate the lower control arm (LCA) from the stabilizer bar (SB). Everything else is detached from the LCA. Yes, the bolt thru the LCA from the SB is a little rusty. I'm using a good lubricant though.
LesTrafik 2 years ago
It takes very little tension.When you do it look at the bar were it goes through the arm.You want to get the bar to the middle of the bushing.
richpin06a 2 years ago
Thank you rich. That's what I thought; but, best to hear it from a pro like you. I'll give it a 2nd try. I really appreciate what you've done here! Best regards! Les.
LesTrafik 2 years ago
Wow... that accent... X.X
agentfazexx 2 years ago
how can i replace my lower ball joints on a 98 olds bravada. its 4 wheel drive. i did it b4 and it was a bitch. the ball joints are pre-pressed. the first time i managed to finagle the ball joint into the knuckle is there an easier way. or do i have to disconnect the drive axle to put the ball joint in the knuckle, then on to the control arm. the other time i put the joint into the control arm and managed to get the knuckle down far enough to get the ball joint on. is there an easier way thanks
cujo1975 2 years ago
Is it the same for a '97 Jimmy?
ubesta 2 years ago
no need to compress spring?
KFCHambone 2 years ago
none
richpin06a 2 years ago
use a moog peice in canada i spent 160.00$ but i work in a parts department so i got a deal the moog peice sells for 220.00 $ with a lifetime warrenty'
a white box no name is junk it well work for a bit then brake again u can buy it fo rhalf price but if u replace it it adds up to a moog peice
topdogmastermind 2 years ago
What brand did you use when you replaced your lower control arms? is there any brand that you would stay away from?
d9bar 2 years ago
Get moog brand if you can.NAPA is not to bad.
richpin06a 2 years ago
Do you have to replace the control arm with ball joint, or can you just replace the ball joint. For a '98 Saturn SL1. Thanks
Lawnroller 2 years ago
The control arm and ball joint are one part.
richpin06a 2 years ago
how can you tell if you need this replaced?
sourmanofcoal 2 years ago
With the vehicle off the ground move the tire side to side or apply force upward and look for movement at the joint.
richpin06a 2 years ago
Rich,
Do you use anti-seize compound instead of grease?
RandallFlaggNY 2 years ago
grease
richpin06a 2 years ago
holy crap thanks i have a 95 saturn sc2 and i couldnt find a way to put that bitch in . THANKS LOTS
vatoillegal 2 years ago
You are the BEST! With your help, I saved over $400 in repairs doing it myself! Thanks!
cdc82069 3 years ago
Could you use a torch for the seized bolt?
TOMOFONO 3 years ago
Yes as long as you are replacing the control arm.
richpin06a 3 years ago