full joints will help prevent thermal resistence? what a load of toilet! mortar has no u value what so ever! i have no doubt your a a good trowel but thats rubbish! thin blocks system is the only way forward!
@benny5825 duno wot u call them but i use the term bastard cuts. To keep the bond oviously, the cut is the width of a block 100mm x2 plus 2 10mm perp joints equal 220mm half of a 440mm block
I guess american bricklayers do it different...i like the quality of your bricklaying... its alot more about production than quality on this side of the pond...sad to say
@acidwarp514 Not sure why you would get fired for using half bond, the most common brick/block bond there is, and if you could show me how to use a line while building a corner i would gladly share with you the massive profits I would make with that technique (Usually you need at least two corners to string a line to).
@StevesBricks If you start your corner with a 11-5/8'' cut the bond does work out .It's called "common bond". You are right about using a level. 1st level 2nd plumb 3rd straight edge.
@MrMason345 Just so we don't have any problems here the bond I am using for the blockwork is half bond also known in the UK as stretcher bond. There are only two true bonds in masonry half & quarter bond. Quarter bond has many variations flemish, english etc. In the UK "common bond" is not a recognised bond I am afraid. We also do not use feet and inches in Europe so the piece I am cutting to pick up the bond out of the corner is 100mm.
@StevesBricks you did lay the blocks to a half bond, but why wouldnt you remove the small piece you installed on the corner, and cut that size off of the full block below it?
@StevesBricks you did lay the blocks to a half bond, but why wouldnt you remove the small piece you installed on the corner, and cut that siz off of the full block below it?
I've noticed that you're buttering method is common from English and British bricklayers that I've watched before. Over here in America most bricklayers will butter the block they're about to lay, whether 4 inch block as shown in this video, or 8x16 block. Is that just how its typically taught over there in the West, or is it just a coincidence that I've seen this method?
I would like to learn this method, but I can't seem to let the mortar bond to the block, it always falls off.
i like your your style.quite right it takes a few seconds to level,plum and range.i normally do the rendering too so i make sure the blockwork bang on
Good work Steve . The most important course in blockwork is that first course and that must be plumbed and ideally you would have a guy setting out in front . On the larger jobs i would set out and build the first course and leave it for the gang to crack on the next day . Reason i used to do this was if you introduced a tray DPC you would have a good solid first course to come off , but with a new course from the oversite you always got problems with the wall bellying and bowing.
If you've already plumbed the lower courses, you can use these to "eye in" the upper courses on top of them, it saves time, and time's money, as well you know. Especially as it's a block/block, wall, one side rendered, the other side plastered
Guys don't "eye" in anything this is bad practice and a professional bricklayer should not do it. You build 2 corners, checking gauge and upright, then use corner blocks and line & pins to run in the straight run from corner to corner. There is no need to "eye" in anything. That's rough and not possible no matter how long you have been a bricklayer. It will not make you quicker just give you the nickname "rough".
Guys a professional Bricklayer does not "sight it in" or "eye it" (Whatever that means). The human eye has a curve and the brain has to compensate this. I have had to sack several bricklayers who "eye" things in because the work is rubbish and never plumb or level. That's why professional Bricklayers use a spirit level believe it or not. I have never had a problem with "pace" using the level and know that my work is always right when I finish.
Hey adamcook you need to use a level while plumbing things up but not every coarse most bricklayers can rely on there eyes and site it for 4-5 courses before even leveling it
Wow these are great videos many thanks, I am going to buy my final home and want to do a lot of brickwork myself so I am learning ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Stephanie , a frustrated builder !
dude, not going to comment on your blockwork, tom dick and harry are doing that, but have you considered being a golf narrator on t.v your voice really suits it
the fiber glass stuff is really ichy and come ur not using a line u no build your coners up etc. beautiful work mate i wish i could lay like that i just started learning. any tips from the pro on the speed and spreading moter. plz reply
Parctice is the only way to increase speed. Get the fundamentals right like upright, leveling and gauging over and over again and speed will come naturally I promise. It really is all about practice sounds dull but it's true.
hi mate, aint you supposed to build the inside skin first? the way you are doing it there will be no cavity in effect as the cavity insulation will fill all the cavity up? unless this is specified? i usualy build inside with wall ties and then attach cellotex and build up outside as work proceeds?
finaly a real mason I was thinkin I was the only one left MY UNCLE TAUGHT ME OLD SCHOOL BLOCK LAYING AND I CAN TELL YOU THE MORE MUD THE BETTER EVEN OF YOU FILL SOME CELLS IN THE CORNERS ATLEAST THEY LL NEVER MOVE RIGHT THERS NO SUCH ThING AS WAISTING MUD IN BLOCK work unless it falls on ground or goes back in tray lololol
ive watched alot of masonry vids, you are about the best one ive seen youre a good bricklayer, ive been in the buisness for a long while,and when i saw this i thought to myself,shit there is still real mechanics out there. apprentices will actually learn somethig the correct way. i live in the us and i think you live in australia(not sure) but thats the same exact stuff my grandfather taught me 15 yrs ago,he tells me what to do and i run millions of dollars of work a year
hi could u help me out plz imgoin to build a garage as a project iv done my base and made it 150 mm wider then the garge size all the way round. can u tell me how 2 set out on the base so its all square so when i cut the roof on it just fine. y the way im not a builder im a joiner lol thanks
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
what so with block work that is being rendered u take ur time and make sure that there is not a joint that is not filled m8 this is not face work ur probally an half wit that can only lay 100 blocks by lunch dont come bk and say about the pirps or bends its being RENDERED!!
It looks like you do nice work steve. It just seems like where I live you have to work much harder than other people posting videos. Some guys I work with are fast and neat while others are hacks, same as anywhere I guess. Keep up on the videos!!
a really good video, very informative for apprentices. beginners should note that good brickies shouldnt need to tap the brick/blocks with the trowel too much like this dude,or when starting the corner, the dude shouldve had the ability to sight the first two blocks,the quickly check for plumb without playing with them for ages but nevertheless good video
There is a few comments about my PPE. I am wearing steel topcapped boots. I know I am not wearing a helmet but thats because there was no risk of falling objects and I wear my sunny to protect my head from the sun.
really nice..thanks..im an apprentice brickie from ireland livin in toronto i absolutley love the work but am still half labouring at the mo..bin practicin in my basement a bit..do u make any vids wit a little bit of fireplaces init? wud love to see that
I don't understand why you would have such small cuts in your wall. Also, where is the reinforcement? The joints were not filled or struck. That is bad practice. Also, hammer cutting a block is normal practice, at least with pumice block. If you don't know how to hammer cut something, you need more training.
Not quite sure you understand what you are saying the 100mm cuts are to pick up the bond on the blockwork (Half-bond) and the joints are just kept flush from trowel as the whole job is rendered afterwards. I suggest you pay a little more attention at college ok.
hey steve fair enough..just cant get on with whs..its what ever you learn on i guess..just outa interest what they paying on a thousand brick up your way
try a w rose trowel,theyre the best ive come across,flexable blade so good for spreading the bed and buttering up,and just as hardwearing as a work hard
I have been a bricklayer for 25 years and was an indentured aprentice. I hold the City & Guilds craft and advanced certificate. Check out my website for more information. Amateur is the correct spelling.
My mistake mate I am serving my time as a bricklayer and I'm in my 2nd year. Do you have any advice for doing the skills test at the end of the whole course?
Good advice no worries. My employer doesn't send apprentices back for ACA, I'll just get Svq2 level two. I will REVISE course of course! My teacher says I passed my 2nd year exam with ease! Have you ever heard of a Book called Bricklaying For Apprentices. That's the book I've used for my studies and it's a useful book:)
why not lay a 10 in block grout it solid and be done with it??? I dont understand the 2, 4 in block walls with a cavity, looks like more work to me, it dosn't even look like wall ties or dura-wire are being used to tie this mess in together, And as far as letting the building move a little, if your that worried about "the longevite of the build" throw a couple of control jounts in it.
I understand that in many other coutries the system of build may differ. This is currently the standard in the UK. I agree solid walling would be easier, but less work may not be the best job. The wall ties cross the cavity and you can see them if you look.
I am wondering if the British and Irish actually use some sort of reinforcement. In American we use rebar in the footings and go up vertically to the top and have horizontal rebar usually every 4th or 5th course. We then grout (a type of concrete) the cells and courses that have the rebar. Much stronger that way. It would make me nervous to live in a building built like what was shown in this video and others.
The point of cavity work is that the two skins tied together with cavity ties and give the construction good lateral strength. This type of build also allows for some movement which gives longevity to the build. In industrial construction re-bar is used in joints to give extra strengh if large loads are present in domestic dwellings this would really be classed as overkill.
hey steve im at colage doin brick laying and i look up to peopel like you keep up the good work wot r u buildin an extention or some thing thanks a lot
I have built one or two bulls eyes. My favourite was one with a cut flint centre. That was in a place called Boughton just outside Ashford Kent. A more interesting job is a one or more centred cut elipse arch. Check out your reference material if you are not sure what that is. Much more challenging than a simple circle.
Hi Steve, john here,(frog) my mate back in uk tells me that you dont close the reveal with a .150mm piece any more?They tried it once before with a plastic cavity closer, are they back to that idea again?
Thats right cavitys are now shut with a plastic insert. It's to do with cold spots and thermal quality. Better for brickies I think I used to hate cutting those returns
Very good, but how did you reach 9 courses high?. I can only get about 7....Suppose being a short arse doesnt help? ey?
Luckytrowel12 4 days ago
On a blockwork corner i would go full block to full block then on the next course three quarter to quarter no waste and quicker.
john38261 3 months ago
SOUNDS LIKE SUNDAY GRANDSTAND ....
GW8941 5 months ago
full joints will help prevent thermal resistence? what a load of toilet! mortar has no u value what so ever! i have no doubt your a a good trowel but thats rubbish! thin blocks system is the only way forward!
oxcasual16 9 months ago
@benny5825 duno wot u call them but i use the term bastard cuts. To keep the bond oviously, the cut is the width of a block 100mm x2 plus 2 10mm perp joints equal 220mm half of a 440mm block
leemassey1 10 months ago
Why do you use the small cuts of blockwork in the courses,what are they called, they look the size of a brick?
benny5825 10 months ago
Why do you use the small cuts of blockwork in the courses,what are they called?
benny5825 10 months ago
just got my nvq level 3 in bricklaying steve at leeds college of building
baz178 10 months ago
I am a bricklayer wots muck?
iksouthway 11 months ago
@iksouthway its another saying for mortar.
james47818 11 months ago
I guess american bricklayers do it different...i like the quality of your bricklaying... its alot more about production than quality on this side of the pond...sad to say
acidwarp514 1 year ago
this was useless 2 me
pjgold30 1 year ago
Why not use 8" block ?? I know you can make a lot more money with the 2 4" walls but I'm too impatient ..lol
mikeysback70 1 year ago
no line no level? what kind of bond is that? i would get fired for that bond or for not using a level or line.
acidwarp514 1 year ago
@acidwarp514 Not sure why you would get fired for using half bond, the most common brick/block bond there is, and if you could show me how to use a line while building a corner i would gladly share with you the massive profits I would make with that technique (Usually you need at least two corners to string a line to).
StevesBricks 1 year ago
@StevesBricks If you start your corner with a 11-5/8'' cut the bond does work out .It's called "common bond". You are right about using a level. 1st level 2nd plumb 3rd straight edge.
MrMason345 1 year ago
@MrMason345 Just so we don't have any problems here the bond I am using for the blockwork is half bond also known in the UK as stretcher bond. There are only two true bonds in masonry half & quarter bond. Quarter bond has many variations flemish, english etc. In the UK "common bond" is not a recognised bond I am afraid. We also do not use feet and inches in Europe so the piece I am cutting to pick up the bond out of the corner is 100mm.
StevesBricks 1 year ago
@StevesBricks you did lay the blocks to a half bond, but why wouldnt you remove the small piece you installed on the corner, and cut that size off of the full block below it?
stalg158 1 year ago
@StevesBricks you did lay the blocks to a half bond, but why wouldnt you remove the small piece you installed on the corner, and cut that siz off of the full block below it?
stalg158 1 year ago
@StevesBricks
Couldnt agree more Steve.
Luckytrowel12 4 days ago
@acidwarp514 you dont see the YELLOW level ?
TheWizz82 1 year ago
@acidwarp514
Thats "Half Bond". Lol.
Luckytrowel12 4 days ago
wers ur line?
adamcook01 1 year ago
I've noticed that you're buttering method is common from English and British bricklayers that I've watched before. Over here in America most bricklayers will butter the block they're about to lay, whether 4 inch block as shown in this video, or 8x16 block. Is that just how its typically taught over there in the West, or is it just a coincidence that I've seen this method?
I would like to learn this method, but I can't seem to let the mortar bond to the block, it always falls off.
fenderstrat81991 1 year ago
@fenderstrat81991 Haha correction, I meant over there being East, not West. My apologies
fenderstrat81991 1 year ago
nice and neat
makeminealarge1 1 year ago
i like your your style.quite right it takes a few seconds to level,plum and range.i normally do the rendering too so i make sure the blockwork bang on
stilln68la 1 year ago
this rockwoll between the wals gona be rotten soon
przemiana 1 year ago
Good work Steve . The most important course in blockwork is that first course and that must be plumbed and ideally you would have a guy setting out in front . On the larger jobs i would set out and build the first course and leave it for the gang to crack on the next day . Reason i used to do this was if you introduced a tray DPC you would have a good solid first course to come off , but with a new course from the oversite you always got problems with the wall bellying and bowing.
londoncab100 2 years ago
If you've already plumbed the lower courses, you can use these to "eye in" the upper courses on top of them, it saves time, and time's money, as well you know. Especially as it's a block/block, wall, one side rendered, the other side plastered
planetyouranus22 2 years ago
Guys don't "eye" in anything this is bad practice and a professional bricklayer should not do it. You build 2 corners, checking gauge and upright, then use corner blocks and line & pins to run in the straight run from corner to corner. There is no need to "eye" in anything. That's rough and not possible no matter how long you have been a bricklayer. It will not make you quicker just give you the nickname "rough".
StevesBricks 1 year ago
Guys a professional Bricklayer does not "sight it in" or "eye it" (Whatever that means). The human eye has a curve and the brain has to compensate this. I have had to sack several bricklayers who "eye" things in because the work is rubbish and never plumb or level. That's why professional Bricklayers use a spirit level believe it or not. I have never had a problem with "pace" using the level and know that my work is always right when I finish.
StevesBricks 2 years ago
is he ever checking if he is layin up on an 8
cec19 2 years ago
Hey adamcook you need to use a level while plumbing things up but not every coarse most bricklayers can rely on there eyes and site it for 4-5 courses before even leveling it
tjpvc123 2 years ago
yeah. . mediocre masons do that. . . perfectionists level & plumb every course. . .and are still faster. . . like myself. . .
goooogrrr 2 years ago
get a mortar stand
it'd help
eburshtan0720 2 years ago
hahahahahaha i was thinkin why has he done 2 wals of block
have you forgot the brick ?
then i realised you said he is screeding it
nice video
b191191 2 years ago
Wow these are great videos many thanks, I am going to buy my final home and want to do a lot of brickwork myself so I am learning ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Stephanie , a frustrated builder !
fiown 2 years ago
dude, not going to comment on your blockwork, tom dick and harry are doing that, but have you considered being a golf narrator on t.v your voice really suits it
WolfishNuckajuh 2 years ago
tom dick and harry...... ha its a skill! it takes years of learning and hard work!
gazamc08 2 years ago
how do u get a job on site as a bricklayer whats the 1st thing u do
adamcook01 2 years ago
Most companies will not hire you straight as a layer. You have to be a laborer, then lay and labor, then lay.
NC403Firefighter 2 years ago
do the blocks chip when you tap with the lvl
adamcook0 2 years ago
why are you not using a line or a level for your following blocks are you that good?
adamcook0 2 years ago
Because I am setting out and building the corner first. I did the same at the other end and then used lines and corner blocks to run in the middle.
StevesBricks 2 years ago
ye but u didnt even use a level wow!! i thought u had to use a level when levelling
adamcook0 2 years ago
you should still be levelling and plumming your corner
Chroniclogical420 2 years ago
hi good video im on diploma level 1 ive just started to lay blocks.
adamcook0 2 years ago
the fiber glass stuff is really ichy and come ur not using a line u no build your coners up etc. beautiful work mate i wish i could lay like that i just started learning. any tips from the pro on the speed and spreading moter. plz reply
5N19ERG0D 2 years ago
Parctice is the only way to increase speed. Get the fundamentals right like upright, leveling and gauging over and over again and speed will come naturally I promise. It really is all about practice sounds dull but it's true.
StevesBricks 2 years ago
hi mate, aint you supposed to build the inside skin first? the way you are doing it there will be no cavity in effect as the cavity insulation will fill all the cavity up? unless this is specified? i usualy build inside with wall ties and then attach cellotex and build up outside as work proceeds?
YATES001 3 years ago
finaly a real mason I was thinkin I was the only one left MY UNCLE TAUGHT ME OLD SCHOOL BLOCK LAYING AND I CAN TELL YOU THE MORE MUD THE BETTER EVEN OF YOU FILL SOME CELLS IN THE CORNERS ATLEAST THEY LL NEVER MOVE RIGHT THERS NO SUCH ThING AS WAISTING MUD IN BLOCK work unless it falls on ground or goes back in tray lololol
imnothot159 3 years ago
ive watched alot of masonry vids, you are about the best one ive seen youre a good bricklayer, ive been in the buisness for a long while,and when i saw this i thought to myself,shit there is still real mechanics out there. apprentices will actually learn somethig the correct way. i live in the us and i think you live in australia(not sure) but thats the same exact stuff my grandfather taught me 15 yrs ago,he tells me what to do and i run millions of dollars of work a year
buttcrackfred 3 years ago
Thank you very much for your generous comments and I really do hope I am holding up the traditions of your grandfather.
Thanks
StevesBricks 3 years ago
that looks like the beds are 12 and a half mm thick your sacked
Agent47AKAbauldy 3 years ago
hi could u help me out plz imgoin to build a garage as a project iv done my base and made it 150 mm wider then the garge size all the way round. can u tell me how 2 set out on the base so its all square so when i cut the roof on it just fine. y the way im not a builder im a joiner lol thanks
jay
jaybell69 3 years ago
i cant see anything wrong there steve being a quality bricky myself keep up the good work rkid
vini0120 3 years ago
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you are a penis
clioterus 3 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
what so with block work that is being rendered u take ur time and make sure that there is not a joint that is not filled m8 this is not face work ur probally an half wit that can only lay 100 blocks by lunch dont come bk and say about the pirps or bends its being RENDERED!!
macfad2088 3 years ago
It looks like you do nice work steve. It just seems like where I live you have to work much harder than other people posting videos. Some guys I work with are fast and neat while others are hacks, same as anywhere I guess. Keep up on the videos!!
Jrm4cam 3 years ago
a really good video, very informative for apprentices. beginners should note that good brickies shouldnt need to tap the brick/blocks with the trowel too much like this dude,or when starting the corner, the dude shouldve had the ability to sight the first two blocks,the quickly check for plumb without playing with them for ages but nevertheless good video
WolfishNuckajuh 3 years ago
nice video.. i wasnt even paying attention to what your wearing. good educational value.
spierro 3 years ago
There is a few comments about my PPE. I am wearing steel topcapped boots. I know I am not wearing a helmet but thats because there was no risk of falling objects and I wear my sunny to protect my head from the sun.
StevesBricks 3 years ago
hey nice work steve i am a 3rd year apprentice and i love laying bricks fire places and arches are the best nice laying your work is clean as
smacktart 3 years ago
you should move your mouth away from the mic. man.
jabemer 3 years ago
Dear dear, A more constructive comment please.
StevesBricks 3 years ago
i mean the video is fine very explicit but come on sound like if that guy who is speakink was eating chicharrones
jabemer 3 years ago
I am so sorry but I have no idea what on earth you are talking about in your last comment. What is "speakink" or "chicharrones"?
StevesBricks 3 years ago
Job job but, wheres your PPE ?
NativeOfAfrica 3 years ago
ppe he aint on a site giza
macfad2088 3 years ago
ppe lol where bricklayers not faggots he has boots and a hat on
smacktart 3 years ago
really nice..thanks..im an apprentice brickie from ireland livin in toronto i absolutley love the work but am still half labouring at the mo..bin practicin in my basement a bit..do u make any vids wit a little bit of fireplaces init? wud love to see that
lrigydruh 4 years ago
How many Square meters stonewalls are you laying wiht this Blocks? Just in one day
maxiii6 4 years ago
I'm not sure I understand what you are saying by "stonewalls" do you mean insulation?
StevesBricks 4 years ago
think he means square metre of the semis.
macfad2088 4 years ago
I don't understand why you would have such small cuts in your wall. Also, where is the reinforcement? The joints were not filled or struck. That is bad practice. Also, hammer cutting a block is normal practice, at least with pumice block. If you don't know how to hammer cut something, you need more training.
Jesusisyhwh 4 years ago
Not quite sure you understand what you are saying the 100mm cuts are to pick up the bond on the blockwork (Half-bond) and the joints are just kept flush from trowel as the whole job is rendered afterwards. I suggest you pay a little more attention at college ok.
StevesBricks 4 years ago
ha ha its being plastered boof head the bond isnt overly important .
pidt2 3 years ago
you talked about external rendering on one of your vids have you ever done a tyrolean finish,
geepster66 4 years ago
No. I do know it can be extremly messy and you have to really use a spray machine. I did'nt think anyone used tyrolean anymore.
But there you go
StevesBricks 4 years ago
how come your not tying the skins together?
joshywales1 4 years ago
I am using 275mm stainless steel wall ties but you can not see them very well.
StevesBricks 4 years ago
y are u usin rockwool?
nasty stuff!
i never use that
joshywales1 4 years ago
that trowel sounds like a whs..how can you use that thing.like laying bricks with a hatchet..wheres your marshal town
age68 4 years ago
Yes I'm afraid it is a work hard and starve but I like sheffield steel and the balance marshal always feels like a handbag rather than a trowel
StevesBricks 4 years ago
hey steve fair enough..just cant get on with whs..its what ever you learn on i guess..just outa interest what they paying on a thousand brick up your way
age68 4 years ago
Labour only about between £440 - £400 something in that region.
StevesBricks 4 years ago
try a w rose trowel,theyre the best ive come across,flexable blade so good for spreading the bed and buttering up,and just as hardwearing as a work hard
doddlesock 4 years ago
I agree. I only use Rose trowells.
Jesusisyhwh 4 years ago
yeah w rose good solid trowell ,pretty heavey though in the long run could affect the wrist maybe
pidt2 3 years ago
hitting people with hammers is not advised either!
ribhkum 4 years ago
You can always tell a good brickie! and your 1 of em
YATES001 4 years ago
r u time served or diy ameteur?
georgekane17 4 years ago
I have been a bricklayer for 25 years and was an indentured aprentice. I hold the City & Guilds craft and advanced certificate. Check out my website for more information. Amateur is the correct spelling.
StevesBricks 4 years ago
My mistake mate I am serving my time as a bricklayer and I'm in my 2nd year. Do you have any advice for doing the skills test at the end of the whole course?
Regards
Geo
georgekane17 4 years ago
Sorry for the teachery answer but it's revise revise. My level 3 students are about to take their ACA exam and that's what they are up to. Good luck!
StevesBricks 4 years ago
Good advice no worries. My employer doesn't send apprentices back for ACA, I'll just get Svq2 level two. I will REVISE course of course! My teacher says I passed my 2nd year exam with ease! Have you ever heard of a Book called Bricklaying For Apprentices. That's the book I've used for my studies and it's a useful book:)
georgekane17 4 years ago
why not lay a 10 in block grout it solid and be done with it??? I dont understand the 2, 4 in block walls with a cavity, looks like more work to me, it dosn't even look like wall ties or dura-wire are being used to tie this mess in together, And as far as letting the building move a little, if your that worried about "the longevite of the build" throw a couple of control jounts in it.
brickit26 4 years ago
I understand that in many other coutries the system of build may differ. This is currently the standard in the UK. I agree solid walling would be easier, but less work may not be the best job. The wall ties cross the cavity and you can see them if you look.
StevesBricks 4 years ago
I'm puzzled, brick22 - can you please explain;
a) What a "10 in block grout it solid" is?
b) What "dosn't" means?
c) Why you use the word "your" when you presumably mean "you're"?
d) What "longevite" is? Is it like Marmite, but lasts longer?
e) What a control "jount" is?
Please reply - I'd love to know. :o)))
genyouwin 4 years ago
i'm puzzled with life in general!
ribhkum 4 years ago
I am wondering if the British and Irish actually use some sort of reinforcement. In American we use rebar in the footings and go up vertically to the top and have horizontal rebar usually every 4th or 5th course. We then grout (a type of concrete) the cells and courses that have the rebar. Much stronger that way. It would make me nervous to live in a building built like what was shown in this video and others.
Jesusisyhwh 4 years ago
The point of cavity work is that the two skins tied together with cavity ties and give the construction good lateral strength. This type of build also allows for some movement which gives longevity to the build. In industrial construction re-bar is used in joints to give extra strengh if large loads are present in domestic dwellings this would really be classed as overkill.
StevesBricks 4 years ago
Overkill? Not at all. I would not even think of doing it otherwise for my own home. In fact, I prefer solid grouting.
Jesusisyhwh 4 years ago
Your the best Ive seen on here yet, you even have a level. Nice to see someone that knows what their doing.
brick411 4 years ago
in the usa. we call that 4 inch block.nice work
motohead1993 4 years ago
yes mate we call it 4inch here aswell,and we still call solid 1 brick walls 9inch walls even though our bricks arnt quite 9ins long anymore,
doddlesock 4 years ago
i am a mason from sevierville tn usa. we call that laying 4inch block. it looks good. nice work.
motohead1993 4 years ago
hey steve im at colage doin brick laying and i look up to peopel like you keep up the good work wot r u buildin an extention or some thing thanks a lot
thumpstarryan 4 years ago
nice bricklaying,ha here is a question for you have you ever built a bulls eye,and were did you do it
dharmacraig 4 years ago
I have built one or two bulls eyes. My favourite was one with a cut flint centre. That was in a place called Boughton just outside Ashford Kent. A more interesting job is a one or more centred cut elipse arch. Check out your reference material if you are not sure what that is. Much more challenging than a simple circle.
Thanks for your comment.
StevesBricks 4 years ago
Good job.
KingMiltiadis 4 years ago
cheers for the video steve its good to have these videos, for the younger and less experienced brickies,
YATES001 4 years ago
thnks for the prompt reply, i notice it sunny! ave a good one, j
johnnwhite 4 years ago
Hi Steve, john here,(frog) my mate back in uk tells me that you dont close the reveal with a .150mm piece any more?They tried it once before with a plastic cavity closer, are they back to that idea again?
johnnwhite 4 years ago
Thats right cavitys are now shut with a plastic insert. It's to do with cold spots and thermal quality. Better for brickies I think I used to hate cutting those returns
StevesBricks 4 years ago