@mike711750 well, first, buy a new car. a van will never be as fast as a car. however, there are things you can do to make it a bit better. higher flow intake and exhaust are the easiest ways
Torco only builds High Performance and Racing oils. All of our oils are over built with large additive systems that would frighten most other oil companies. We do not build oils based on API guidelines. We build oils based on our extensive back ground in solving lubrication issues or improving performance in a racing application. Therefore all of our formulas have an abudance of Zinc and many other components that address Anti- wear, Anti-friction and detergency.
Yes, Torco makes a few Assembly Lubes that contain Molybdenum. In saying that, there are several different types of Moly. Torco uses what we call a Molybdenum Dithiophosphate. This is a liquid form of moly which less abrasive than a Moly Disulfide which is a solid particulate form. FYI, Torco is the pioneer of Engine Assembly Lubes. We were building assembly lubes before they were even considered or recomended in the engine building industry. All Torco engine oils contain an abundance of Zinc.
@TorcoOil Do you guys at Torco make a moly lube or equivalent intended for flat tappet cam break-in?
What about the fact that all major oil brands have removed the zinc content from their oils? This is causing major problems with people that still like to run flat tappet camshafts and lifters (high percentage of classic car restorations and hot rodders..)
@BoxWrench hey! im having trouble getting my old cam bearings out. is there some sort of special tool or something? they seem to be really in there. the engine is a ford 400
@dnl5649 yes, you need a 'camshaft bearing installation/removal' tool.
The removal and installation process is covered in our complete 'Basic Engine Building' DVD. If you take your block to a machine shop, they'll do it for you, or if you want to do it yourself, you'll need the cam bearing tool and our DVD can show you the whole process.
@BoxWrench thanks for the quick reply! yea thats what i thought. where can i get one of these tools? i know how to use the remover, ive seen one before and have used one for crankshaft bushings (the kind that has the metal ring and the rubber seal part in the middle) on a motorcycle engine but it was much smaller. i dont need to see someone do it, putting the engine together is easy. its just little thinks like this and freeze plugs i have trouble with.
@ajhnson true, this one short clip does deal with an in-block camshaft for a V8 pushrod engine...but, this is only a piece of a 3 1/2 hours DVD.
Almost every other section of the DVD has information and engine building tools instructions that you can use for any kind of engine.
You have pistons don't you?
There is extensive footage dealing with piston removal, machining and installation. Also, all the gasket sealing techniques that are universal to all types of engine building.
would bad cam bearings casue low oil pressure when ideling?, my turck goes down to 20psi when ideling and up to 40psi when moveing, would that cam bearings cause that? had my crank checked and he said it was all good said the bottem half of the engine looked great what chould be goin on up top?
Cam bearings would not be a likely cause of oil pressure dropping as you describe...
The most likely issue would be that over time, the rod side clearance has been increasing as the connecting rods rub against each other. Oil pressure would begin to decrease as more oil seeps out between the rods. This can also be multiplied by increased clearances in the gears of the oil pump as it gets older.
You may see a an increase in pressure if you use a thicker oil such as SAE 30 weight
@BoxWrench how chould the rods be checked? has a brand new oil pump in it now,and how much would it be to fix something like that? or is the engine junk?
@youdragon Rod side clearance is checked by pulling the oil pan and putting a feeler gauge between two adjacent rods. If your clearance is .025" or higher, you'll likely see a lowering of oil pressure. The bigger issue is whether your rod bearings are wearing out. Only way to check them is pull the oil pan, pull rod caps, push pistons up to get to rod bearings.
Just try a 30 weight oil first.
Then verify that your oil gauge is correct. Install a separate oil gauge directly into the block...
hey this is pretty good info. My suggestion for an engine with fuel inj, and dohc would have to be a nissan VG30dett. In large part because 90% of people running this engine are DIY'ers and are always doin complete rebuilds. Thanks again!
I have a 2002 ford rangr 2.3l and am thinking about putting an edelbrock cam in it. Are there any other nessecary parts that are usually ordered with cams or is it a simple plug and play installation??
Completely depends on the "book time" in hours to remove the parts needed to get to the camshaft. Most cases the book time includes the reinstall time, if not ask about that when getting quotes.
Call around and get several quotes before making a commitment.
Nissan tends to be twin cam, and i think some of the new ones have variable timing. its going to be a pain in the ass changing the cam. but price wise i've seen anywhere from $200 (single stage one cam, bad brand name) to over $900 (twin cams, stage II or III, good name) if you don't know that, i would suggest not trying to change your cam or doing a hell of a lot more research.
Overhead camshaft design is very different from what is seen here.
This video directly applies to V-types blocks such as V8 and V6 as well as any in-block camshaft design with Overhead valves and pushrods such as a line6 or inline 8 engine.
no. B16A that brings back bad memories of my Honda days, ok, there really is no good reason to change the cam on a v-tec engine, just get a new head (B18 type R if you can), you'll see more hp gain at a lower cost and your car will still idle well. or you can get your head ported at a local machine shop for even less.
I was wondering would be be possible to install a camshaft without removing and gutting a motor? Particularly on a 4.7L V8 Magnum? Get back to me please
Well you'll probably have to pull the intake manifold off, water pump, timing cover, grill and radiator and what ever else is in the way of getting the cam and such out.
But yes you can swap a cam without pulling it out of the vehicle.
Don't use anything but a Molybdendum (Moly) lube, or another engine bearing or break-in lube that is specifically designed for flat tappet camshaft lobes and lifters.
Lithium grease will not cut it. Also, modern oils do not have a sufficient amount of zinc and other lubricants in them. Any engine with flat tappet lifters must use special oil that has sufficient zinc. There are oils on the market that display the zinc additive is actually inside the oil bottle...
depends on the engine. You need enough space in front of a pushrod engine to remove the camshaft from the front as well as access to the tappets (you need to pull out the tappets and pushrods). On an OHC or DOHC engine, you can get at them by just removing the valve cover and removing the timing chain.
Any chance you are planning on doing a DVD featuring a modern, overhead cam engine? All of the videos on the market seem to be for older, pushrod style engines. I know many of the same principals apply, but some things are different. It'd be nice to see something other than the typical "This is how to build a V8" video.
I will say though, out of all the videos I've seen, yours are the best!
In most of our research so far, there just aren't as many people that are willing to do complete engine rebuilds on overhead cam engines and smaller 4-cylinder models.
There is a vibrant community of hot-rodders and engine builders that completely remove and restore/refresh V8's on a regular basis.
We'd love to see more of a response from people with 4 cylinder engines and fuel injected applications. We we see the demand, we'll consider making videos for that market.
I drive a DOHC 4 Cylinder Eclipse RS (Second Generation DSM - 1995-99) and I'll be buying another soon as a project to completely rebuild and restore it for more horsepower. I'm watching your videos to learn the basics ... Kinda new to mechanics but I would love to see some overhead cam videos on these 4 Cylinders...there are whole communities out there dedicated to these kinds of cars.
Yes, it's true that working on an engine on a stand is easier, but shooting instructional videos under the hood of a car in a dark garage isn't very helpful.
Doing a camshaft swap as shown here isn't very difficult once you get the radiator and any obstructing brackets out of the way. There is also quite a bit of under-hood work in our full length DVDs as well.
Should get any skill level of mechanic up to speed pretty quickly...
If you're not pulling the block out, you don't have much choice. You wouldn't be able to replace the cam bearings.
However, the cam only spins at half the rotation speed of the crank and doesn't require as much oil feed lubrication. Honestly, cam bearings don't get the same abuse that the rod and journal bearings of the crank do.
You'll likely be just fine pulling the cam and leaving the old bearings in place. Just be sure the new cam rotates freely by hand prior to stalling the timing set.
what do you think about moly lube on hydraulic roller cam? will it cause any issues? would it keep the roller lifters from actually rolling on the lobes?
If your engine is still in the vehicle you can swap out the camshaft. You would have to remove the radiator and the water pump and timing cover as well. Most likely, depending on your engine type, you'll have to get the harmonic balancer off before the timing cover can be removed.
it would be in an LS1 not installed yet. its goin into a 65 burb and i havent bolted the whole front clip up yet so its REALLY easy to get to the camshaft timing etc etc.
For the lobes of the camshaft it's best to use "Moly" Lube (Molybdenum Grease) which is usually supplied with a new camshaft but is available separately if needed. The reason is it's lubricating ability is higher than oil alone and is needed for new flat tappet camshaft lobes (not roller cams) when they are first run during the critical break-in period of a freshly rebuilt engine. If you don't use Moly Lube, you run the risk of having a cam lobe "wipe" itself out and going flat
pushrods should outlast your engine. You only change those if you've shaved enough off the block and or head to make it necessary to go with shorter pushrods. Stock rocker arms are best for break in because they put less pressure on the cam and tappets, but after around 500 miles you may want to switch to a higher ratio. Valve springs can likewise remain stock, but when you have a high lift requirement, you need stronger springs to prevent valve float. A new oil pump may be necessary.
The camshaft absolutely has to have a liberal amount of moly lube applied to the lobes in order to allow for proper cam break-in.
The pistons will not be greatly affected by excess cam lube that makes it's way to the oil sump as the piston skirts are mostly oiled by splash the is slung from the rods after traveling through the oil pump, the oil galley and then to the exit points of the crank at the rod journals or squirt holes.
most of the grease you put on the lobes gets wiped off after one rotation of the camshaft, say while you are timing the cam for example. The cam lobes are usually lubed by splash lubrication also, and probibly not long after startup the cam break in lube will wash off the cam lobes and dissolve in the oil.
very good video, thanks for uploading, greetings from Venezuela
filipoche 2 months ago
helped me install my E303 CAM on my mustang. Thanks!
FordSVT1313 3 months ago
can someone tell me how to get more hp out of my 4.3,its in a 1992 van?
mike711750 8 months ago
@mike711750 well, first, buy a new car. a van will never be as fast as a car. however, there are things you can do to make it a bit better. higher flow intake and exhaust are the easiest ways
pepene93 7 months ago
Very nice video series, It may be basic information but it still is nice when someone walks you through it.
ap1fanatik 8 months ago
this video sounds hella gay
Chroncshtpuff 9 months ago
@muszyngr hahaha I totally agree!
cattyistooawesome 9 months ago
my how insightful - NOT ... learned absolutely nothing!
muszyngr 9 months ago
I wish we all could afford a 500 dollar crane cam ahah
musclekid13 9 months ago
Just lube it up n slide it in lol
SmokeRollin2010 10 months ago
can u use the assembly lube on the cam lobes instead of moly lube?
ericg83z 1 year ago
HAHAHA LUBE
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DesgWarrtw 1 year ago
Do u need any special tools for this application
DunkMast2 1 year ago
are there any videos showing how to change cams on a DOHC engine ?
mellowdalyricist 1 year ago
are there hot rod cams for v6 mustangs
wonderbreadkw 1 year ago
Torco only builds High Performance and Racing oils. All of our oils are over built with large additive systems that would frighten most other oil companies. We do not build oils based on API guidelines. We build oils based on our extensive back ground in solving lubrication issues or improving performance in a racing application. Therefore all of our formulas have an abudance of Zinc and many other components that address Anti- wear, Anti-friction and detergency.
TorcoOil 1 year ago
Yes, Torco makes a few Assembly Lubes that contain Molybdenum. In saying that, there are several different types of Moly. Torco uses what we call a Molybdenum Dithiophosphate. This is a liquid form of moly which less abrasive than a Moly Disulfide which is a solid particulate form. FYI, Torco is the pioneer of Engine Assembly Lubes. We were building assembly lubes before they were even considered or recomended in the engine building industry. All Torco engine oils contain an abundance of Zinc.
TorcoOil 1 year ago
Awesome video, we at Torco highly recommend Assembly Lube!
TorcoOil 1 year ago
@TorcoOil Do you guys at Torco make a moly lube or equivalent intended for flat tappet cam break-in?
What about the fact that all major oil brands have removed the zinc content from their oils? This is causing major problems with people that still like to run flat tappet camshafts and lifters (high percentage of classic car restorations and hot rodders..)
Does Torco offer any oils with added ZDDP?
BoxWrench 1 year ago
@BoxWrench hey! im having trouble getting my old cam bearings out. is there some sort of special tool or something? they seem to be really in there. the engine is a ford 400
dnl5649 1 year ago
@dnl5649 yes, you need a 'camshaft bearing installation/removal' tool.
The removal and installation process is covered in our complete 'Basic Engine Building' DVD. If you take your block to a machine shop, they'll do it for you, or if you want to do it yourself, you'll need the cam bearing tool and our DVD can show you the whole process.
BoxWrench 1 year ago
@BoxWrench thanks for the quick reply! yea thats what i thought. where can i get one of these tools? i know how to use the remover, ive seen one before and have used one for crankshaft bushings (the kind that has the metal ring and the rubber seal part in the middle) on a motorcycle engine but it was much smaller. i dont need to see someone do it, putting the engine together is easy. its just little thinks like this and freeze plugs i have trouble with.
thanks!
dnl5649 1 year ago
this engine block looks heavy !
abunaiN1 1 year ago
Great video. 5 stars.
snaponjohn100 1 year ago
Well this doesn't help us 4.6 crowd! :(
ajhnson 1 year ago
@ajhnson true, this one short clip does deal with an in-block camshaft for a V8 pushrod engine...but, this is only a piece of a 3 1/2 hours DVD.
Almost every other section of the DVD has information and engine building tools instructions that you can use for any kind of engine.
You have pistons don't you?
There is extensive footage dealing with piston removal, machining and installation. Also, all the gasket sealing techniques that are universal to all types of engine building.
BoxWrench 1 year ago
I want to download video in Youtube but i don't know. What dou i do? Can you help me? Thanks.
I have been account at Youtube.
saloncarvn 1 year ago
would bad cam bearings casue low oil pressure when ideling?, my turck goes down to 20psi when ideling and up to 40psi when moveing, would that cam bearings cause that? had my crank checked and he said it was all good said the bottem half of the engine looked great what chould be goin on up top?
youdragon 1 year ago
@youdragon
Cam bearings would not be a likely cause of oil pressure dropping as you describe...
The most likely issue would be that over time, the rod side clearance has been increasing as the connecting rods rub against each other. Oil pressure would begin to decrease as more oil seeps out between the rods. This can also be multiplied by increased clearances in the gears of the oil pump as it gets older.
You may see a an increase in pressure if you use a thicker oil such as SAE 30 weight
BoxWrench 1 year ago
@BoxWrench how chould the rods be checked? has a brand new oil pump in it now,and how much would it be to fix something like that? or is the engine junk?
youdragon 1 year ago
@youdragon Rod side clearance is checked by pulling the oil pan and putting a feeler gauge between two adjacent rods. If your clearance is .025" or higher, you'll likely see a lowering of oil pressure. The bigger issue is whether your rod bearings are wearing out. Only way to check them is pull the oil pan, pull rod caps, push pistons up to get to rod bearings.
Just try a 30 weight oil first.
Then verify that your oil gauge is correct. Install a separate oil gauge directly into the block...
BoxWrench 1 year ago
@BoxWrench so pretty much if its my rod bearing my engine is fucked lol
youdragon 1 year ago
hey this is pretty good info. My suggestion for an engine with fuel inj, and dohc would have to be a nissan VG30dett. In large part because 90% of people running this engine are DIY'ers and are always doin complete rebuilds. Thanks again!
TEUFELHuNDEN420 1 year ago
I have a 2002 ford rangr 2.3l and am thinking about putting an edelbrock cam in it. Are there any other nessecary parts that are usually ordered with cams or is it a simple plug and play installation??
fastjoon92 1 year ago
Thanks for info!
TraumaER 2 years ago
How much would the labor cost? Not counting the price for a cam shaft
JeffyOwns 2 years ago
Completely depends on the "book time" in hours to remove the parts needed to get to the camshaft. Most cases the book time includes the reinstall time, if not ask about that when getting quotes.
Call around and get several quotes before making a commitment.
tech951 2 years ago
how much does regualr camshsft cost i know im not being specific but for like a small car like a nissan not to new?
burnerj2000 2 years ago
Nissan tends to be twin cam, and i think some of the new ones have variable timing. its going to be a pain in the ass changing the cam. but price wise i've seen anywhere from $200 (single stage one cam, bad brand name) to over $900 (twin cams, stage II or III, good name) if you don't know that, i would suggest not trying to change your cam or doing a hell of a lot more research.
halotarget360 2 years ago
@halotarget360 Ive seen cams as much as $1400
alexjalaff 2 years ago
i have a 98gsr can any1 tell me how to change camshaft seal or tell me where to find a vid
punx216 2 years ago
Same shit for eveery cam, sohc and dohc
CFTuRbOtC 2 years ago
what is all that gray sticky stuff? it seems like it is not good for the engine?
TraumaER 2 years ago
HAHHAHAHHA USE THE LUBE!
INTERNETPIMPIN1 2 years ago
Will it be the same procedure on a B16A Honda 4banger?
LexusFman 2 years ago
Overhead camshaft design is very different from what is seen here.
This video directly applies to V-types blocks such as V8 and V6 as well as any in-block camshaft design with Overhead valves and pushrods such as a line6 or inline 8 engine.
BoxWrench 2 years ago
HOW BOUT A C5 CORVETTE
THACHACHA 2 years ago
no. because the b16 is a over head cam. to cam that car is very easy. remove the valve cover, and the cam or cams are rite there.
KennyRulz555 2 years ago
no. B16A that brings back bad memories of my Honda days, ok, there really is no good reason to change the cam on a v-tec engine, just get a new head (B18 type R if you can), you'll see more hp gain at a lower cost and your car will still idle well. or you can get your head ported at a local machine shop for even less.
halotarget360 2 years ago
I was wondering would be be possible to install a camshaft without removing and gutting a motor? Particularly on a 4.7L V8 Magnum? Get back to me please
ahhGroovymangroovy 2 years ago
Well you'll probably have to pull the intake manifold off, water pump, timing cover, grill and radiator and what ever else is in the way of getting the cam and such out.
But yes you can swap a cam without pulling it out of the vehicle.
meaningintragedy01 2 years ago
molylube huh? what if all you can find is lithium bearing grease?
joness105639 2 years ago
Don't use anything but a Molybdendum (Moly) lube, or another engine bearing or break-in lube that is specifically designed for flat tappet camshaft lobes and lifters.
Lithium grease will not cut it. Also, modern oils do not have a sufficient amount of zinc and other lubricants in them. Any engine with flat tappet lifters must use special oil that has sufficient zinc. There are oils on the market that display the zinc additive is actually inside the oil bottle...
BoxWrench 2 years ago
oh i know about the zinc. thats not that big an issue. use any oil you like and buy the zddp additive bottle from moss motors
joness105639 2 years ago
great video , can you put in a cam and bearings without talking out the motor or pistons?
tomahawktree 2 years ago
depends on the engine. You need enough space in front of a pushrod engine to remove the camshaft from the front as well as access to the tappets (you need to pull out the tappets and pushrods). On an OHC or DOHC engine, you can get at them by just removing the valve cover and removing the timing chain.
joness105639 2 years ago
Any chance you are planning on doing a DVD featuring a modern, overhead cam engine? All of the videos on the market seem to be for older, pushrod style engines. I know many of the same principals apply, but some things are different. It'd be nice to see something other than the typical "This is how to build a V8" video.
I will say though, out of all the videos I've seen, yours are the best!
Mikecom32 2 years ago
In most of our research so far, there just aren't as many people that are willing to do complete engine rebuilds on overhead cam engines and smaller 4-cylinder models.
There is a vibrant community of hot-rodders and engine builders that completely remove and restore/refresh V8's on a regular basis.
We'd love to see more of a response from people with 4 cylinder engines and fuel injected applications. We we see the demand, we'll consider making videos for that market.
BoxWrench 2 years ago
I drive a DOHC 4 Cylinder Eclipse RS (Second Generation DSM - 1995-99) and I'll be buying another soon as a project to completely rebuild and restore it for more horsepower. I'm watching your videos to learn the basics ... Kinda new to mechanics but I would love to see some overhead cam videos on these 4 Cylinders...there are whole communities out there dedicated to these kinds of cars.
solidhadriel 2 years ago
good video
Maine414 2 years ago
aNy engine work is extremely easy if you have it on a engine Hoist! lol
deving68 2 years ago
Yes, it's true that working on an engine on a stand is easier, but shooting instructional videos under the hood of a car in a dark garage isn't very helpful.
Doing a camshaft swap as shown here isn't very difficult once you get the radiator and any obstructing brackets out of the way. There is also quite a bit of under-hood work in our full length DVDs as well.
Should get any skill level of mechanic up to speed pretty quickly...
BoxWrench 2 years ago
looks easy
MoFo92 2 years ago
hey bro cool vid i miss my 305 i use to have, heck i am subing come check out my channel tell me what you think
mazdaman1982 3 years ago
Did you get that harmonic balancer of? You'll need a balancer puller for that. you'll break it if you hit it.
banger0250 3 years ago 2
Hello, I have an engine Sblock 302, videoes exist with regard to the armed one and adjustment of the above mentioned engine? Thank you.
leablender 3 years ago
Hey, just wondering, if you replace a cam, do you HAVE to replace the bearings as well? I'd be doing an in-vehicle swap on a 33 year old engine.
crezzyman 3 years ago
If you're not pulling the block out, you don't have much choice. You wouldn't be able to replace the cam bearings.
However, the cam only spins at half the rotation speed of the crank and doesn't require as much oil feed lubrication. Honestly, cam bearings don't get the same abuse that the rod and journal bearings of the crank do.
You'll likely be just fine pulling the cam and leaving the old bearings in place. Just be sure the new cam rotates freely by hand prior to stalling the timing set.
BoxWrench 3 years ago
Cool. Thanks for the help.
crezzyman 3 years ago
what do you think about moly lube on hydraulic roller cam? will it cause any issues? would it keep the roller lifters from actually rolling on the lobes?
goozgoozgooz 3 years ago
I've always used regular engine oil on all my roller cams with no issue.
ILiveInMomsBasement 3 years ago
so musch easier not taking the motor out and with a SOHC or DOHC because if you cam is hard to reach u might as well pull the motor
built04gt 3 years ago
cam you install a camshafter with out ripping apart the motor to bare block?
HoffmanSS 3 years ago
If your engine is still in the vehicle you can swap out the camshaft. You would have to remove the radiator and the water pump and timing cover as well. Most likely, depending on your engine type, you'll have to get the harmonic balancer off before the timing cover can be removed.
BoxWrench 3 years ago
it would be in an LS1 not installed yet. its goin into a 65 burb and i havent bolted the whole front clip up yet so its REALLY easy to get to the camshaft timing etc etc.
HoffmanSS 3 years ago
Holy shit! My cam was a bit tighter in the bearings when I put it in... is it really supposed to turn THAT easily?!
Thrasher502 3 years ago
For the lobes of the camshaft it's best to use "Moly" Lube (Molybdenum Grease) which is usually supplied with a new camshaft but is available separately if needed. The reason is it's lubricating ability is higher than oil alone and is needed for new flat tappet camshaft lobes (not roller cams) when they are first run during the critical break-in period of a freshly rebuilt engine. If you don't use Moly Lube, you run the risk of having a cam lobe "wipe" itself out and going flat
BoxWrench 3 years ago
when you are installing a new cam..what else do you have to replace without anything messing up? or causing you engine to mess up?
like for Ex: push rods, rocker arms, valve springs, exc.
i know you cant put in a new racing cam while leaving some stuff stock..what else do you have to put in?
ingreat888 3 years ago
pushrods should outlast your engine. You only change those if you've shaved enough off the block and or head to make it necessary to go with shorter pushrods. Stock rocker arms are best for break in because they put less pressure on the cam and tappets, but after around 500 miles you may want to switch to a higher ratio. Valve springs can likewise remain stock, but when you have a high lift requirement, you need stronger springs to prevent valve float. A new oil pump may be necessary.
joness105639 2 years ago
great vid thanks
sgtburks 3 years ago 6
won't haveing to much engine assembly lube effect the rings from running in?
15miniman 3 years ago 2
The camshaft absolutely has to have a liberal amount of moly lube applied to the lobes in order to allow for proper cam break-in.
The pistons will not be greatly affected by excess cam lube that makes it's way to the oil sump as the piston skirts are mostly oiled by splash the is slung from the rods after traveling through the oil pump, the oil galley and then to the exit points of the crank at the rod journals or squirt holes.
BoxWrench 3 years ago
you know so much aboutCar engines, and i love engines and everything about cars. i was wondering where u learned all of this?
4B11T 3 years ago
most of the grease you put on the lobes gets wiped off after one rotation of the camshaft, say while you are timing the cam for example. The cam lobes are usually lubed by splash lubrication also, and probibly not long after startup the cam break in lube will wash off the cam lobes and dissolve in the oil.
joness105639 2 years ago
nice high nickel block
enginemasterbuilder 4 years ago 2