Committed II: Steve McClure climbing Rhapsody E11

[HotAches]

It's on Dumbarton Rock, near Glasgow Scotland... not normally described as 'nice'

[BatmanProject777]

How many other people had the thought come to mind, " Hi, I'm Steve Mc Clure...you may remember me from such rock climbs as......"

[theultimateshoe]

how can a a trad climb have preplaced gear, i'm sorry, it just isn't, at very least you cannot give it the E grade in this style

[chaseybears]

@theultimateshoe Agreed!

[W00TTANG]

@theultimateshoe It's certainly ethically shaky, but preplaced or not it certainly gets spread out. I agree this approach seems weird. Should probably really stick with nails sport routes or fully embrace the ins and outs of trad. But who am I to question? Mclure and Macleod? I know that Steve Mclure certainly has voiced reservations about such a style at any rate and more importantly credit too them for continuing to push things forward!

[theultimateshoe]

@W00TTANG Steve grew up trad climbing so i guess it doesnt really matter, I'm sure there was a reason, filming or whatnot. All i'll say is Johnny Dawes would NOT approve!

[theultimateshoe]

@W00TTANG ...and i just noticed its Sonny Trotter belaying :) so they're all trad officianados

[TheDuff1000000]

Thank for the answer.

Actually, we have a different way to thinking trad. But the way we name it doesn't change the thing in itself. Also, I think that, on youtube and vimeo at least, there's not enough vids about trad climbing (any kind of ;). The English climbers have a strong and beautiful trad cllimbing tradition, so keep doing those movies, this sport is underrepresented.

Fred

[HotAches]

Hi TheDuff1000000, 'Committed' is not just about trad climbing, Committed Vol II features some bouldering, sport and winter climbing. Also I think a route is still considered a Trad route even if the gear is pre-placed. I'm glad you enjoyed the clip. Diff

[TheDuff1000000]

I thought Committed was about trad climbing, but this is not, with all my respect for the climber, proper trad climbing. Trad climbing is when you protect the route while you climb. The way I do it, it's more like sport climbing. Placing the gear bring you to an other difficulty level.

Nevertheless, I loved this movie.

[jacobEhandyside]

that makes Rhapsody eliminate then.

[alfonz1986]

Its unfortunate but Steve didn't actually climb Rhapsody. He unwittingly went off-route on the final move (the one Dave took the massive falls from) making it a far easier climb. Dave MacLeod acknowledged this in his blog.