Added: 10 months ago
From: zerozedzed
Views: 4,788
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  • Excellent tutorial. If you want to make a batch of these, you can take a male connector and give it some wraps of masking tape to center them precisely in the hole. Then screw it on the female to center it in the big hole when and pilot drill the holes for mounting screws. I just drill them from the outside.

  • Anyone know where these pipe caps and plugs can be sourced in the UK ? Had a look in the normal places,B&Q etc;but nothing like this in store !!!!!!

  • Excellent tutorial thoroughly enjoyed it !!!!!

  • Thanks Dave for a quick reply

  • Zerozedzed HI DAVE WHAT SIZE I AND TYPE IS YOUR STEP BIT ? Thanks john

  • @Jackupnow The step bit is 1/4" to 3/4".

  • Hi Dave I had a look will get one many thanks

  • Thanks mate what is the model and how is it powered ?

  • @Jackupnow Mine is cordless Dremel model 800. Visit amazon.com and type in "dremel" in the search box. There's lots to choose from. :)

  • Hi Dave just to let you know I'm 70 percent done on the 4 element 2m beam and now I want to try the feed. Point connector what type of hand grinder is that you make the projects simple thanks John vk3fela

  • @Jackupnow That's a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel. It's a very handy tool to have when making or building something. :)

  • Hi dav

  • OK, I am absolutely flummoxed and stumped.

    I just cannot get my dry-fit PVC to come un-done. Once I've got it together, it stays together, period. How on earth do you separate the two pieces after you drill them? The only thing I've produced so far is a lot of sweat and a lot of shredded PVC!! :)

  • @twylo Place a small thin pocket knife blade between the two parts and begin working it loose. Once wide enough use the tip of a very small screwdriver. As you work it apart then use a larger screwdriver. I use my vice to hold it so that I can pull on it. Hopefully you drilled the big hole for the SO-239 first so there is not any air pressure. Hope this helps. :)

  • @zerozedzed Thanks for the reply! Yes, I made sure to drill the SO-239 hole first, so air pressure isn't an issue. I think I'm going to dry to find a different supply of PVC fittings, the ones I have are so tight that a knife doesn't budge them, it just chews up the PVC. Maybe a different brand or manufacturer will be easier to work with.

  • @twylo You may have a small piece of PVC caught where the holes are drilled. You could try running your drill bit through there again. The square end of a file blade might be something too that you can try to ream out the holes with.

  • @zerozedzed My second attempt went much better. I bought a different brand of PVC cap and plug, and it just went together super easily. It's amazing what a difference it made! Thanks for your great videos and your helpful responses!

  • @twylo

    Be sure too de-burr the PVC with a small tiny file or a pocket knife as well.

    That will probably help you with the extra tight friction fit.

    73

  • Comment removed

  • Great video. a lot of effort you put in to this project. May be time to sell these on ebay for us lazy hams.

  • This is a great instruction video. I appreciate you taking the time to show me how to assemble the feed point and hope to contact you sometime down the line. KI4AIE Neil

  • @trousertrout100 Glad you enjoyed the video, Neil. 73 and good DX! :)

  • I think the concept of a wider and longer pipe would allow the balun to fit inside. It is only 3 x 2 x 1.5 inches. Having the leads from the antenna wires to a piece of jumper would allow the balun (239 on each end) to be placed inside and weather-proofed as well as stress-proofed. It is a great balun, but designed for QRP portable, so it isn't as strong as NEMA cases or tubular pvc. Would it be o.k. to hang it by the 14 ga. wire to the side eyebolts? It would be difficult to run a rope.

  • @steveinkentucky If the balun is a small box with a female UHF connector on each end then just use a double male connector to attach the balun to a feed-point connector, like the one in this video. You then only need to worry about the weight of your coax cable -- and so you might consider RG-8X (mini 8) if the balun case is a bit flimsy. It's up to you if you want to enclose it. The antenna will need to be supported at the center. My next video will have more information about mounting.

  • Excellent video. I'm building a fan dipole next week and will be using a 1:1 QRP (200 watts) BalunDesigns balun. It's not tough enough for permanent weight-bearing or the elements. This is ideal to put it inside. I haven't watched all your video, but keep up the great work. Practical examples like this help hams tremendously with practical projects. Steve

  • @steveinkentucky Glad you enjoyed the video, Steve. I'm not sure that a balun would still fit inside. If the balun doesn't fit then you might try a short piece of schedule 40 PVC pipe and use two caps. Thank you for the nice comment and I will keep "practical" in mind when doing future videos. Good luck with your antenna project and have fun! :)

  • Very Nice. Just as good and a heck of a lot cheaper than store bought! COMMENT: I am wondering if it might help alignment of the SO-239 conn if you held it in place by screwing a SO-239 lug on the other end before drilling. Just a thought. It fits so tight in there this may not be necessary though. Thanks for the videos! George, N0JRJ

  • @GeoN0JRJ Thanks, George! :) The SO-239 doesn't really move any from side to side inside the bottom of the plug. A 1/8" drill bit will clear the SO-239 mounting holes so the drill bit shouldn't hang and catch the inside edge of the mounting hole. After I have a screw in it to hold it in place I'll then use the 9/64" drill bit to enlarge the SO-239 mounting hole on the opposite corner and drill through the plastic. Then you can move the screw to the other side and enlarge the first mounting hole.

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