I really have to disagree with this insulation method and for a moisture prone area, why not use pressure treated subfloor? If groundwater penetrates the floor or walls, you'll end up ripping ALL of it out in 10 years. Pipe bursts in the basement?...adios floor down the the concrete and 1 foot above water line on walls. Water heater goes?...same issue. Your $10,000 insulation job just wiped out square footage and headroom too. To each his own I guess.
@djricenitrotank -- I don't think pressure treated is appropriate for indoor use... there's toxic chemicals in that stuff! Maybe that 'blue wood' would be OK, but I don't believe that's rot resistant, only for mold prevention?
just because he is confident doesn't make him right. 18-23 bucks for each 2x8 piece holms is a nut.... i don't even agree with this method anyways we will see if it proves it self or not... to many variables to say this is what you should do in your basement.
this is retarded. You will get loads of moisture trapped between the foam and concrete. Holmes got retarded here. You should use drycore subflooring (5/8 OSB or plywood if you preffer with plastic spacing sheet glued on one side to raise the wood at least 3/8 off the concrete) Also when framing the walls there should be a 1'' air gap between the concrete and wood framing and insulation so that if water seeps in there is ventilation for drying. Tack tar paper onto the walls prior to framing.
The largest benefit of spray foam is as an air sealer. Batt insulation will not perform well if it is being wind washed due to inadequate air sealing.
Typical sheathing is 1 perm.. Dow blue foam is 1.5 perms (I assume the pink is comparable). The foam is less of a vapor barrier than the plywood.
The problem with most of these jobs is the basement was not designed to be finished and the appropriate barriers were not installed. You can't make chicken soup out of chicken shit.
Let me start with just one reason holmes is a moron hack for other DIY moron hacks to follow. Doing what he just did cost about 50sqft of living space, a house that is fancy that is worth 200$/sqft, just lost 10,000$ worth of home. DO YOU IDIOTS GET IT YET? That is just the tip of the iceberg, they spent thousands to lose tens of thousands in living space, and for those of us whose chins go over holmes pussy ass head, that ceiling height wont work.
Why not surround it with gold film radiant barrier, than 10" of foam, then batting, than quiet rock, than some radiation control paint? Overkill much? Who would put this kind of hack on tv? Same businesses that could benifit from his rediculous overkill style? hmmmmmmm? If you think that diy education or entertainment is why he is on the air, than you deserve to spend too much renovating your house.
Loving your videos, I teach Contractors how to Buy & Sell houses, I am looking to promote my video's. Please review my Video's, any help would be greatly appreciated.
google "building science" and on its website type "basement insulation" in the search field. you will get all the layman and technical information for insulating and finishing a basement.
@1asadoc1 You will get "building science Corporations" opinion of finishing a basement. There is no "building science" that everybody agrees on, party because the people at building science Corporation are idiots and nobody uses their techniques except lost fools on the internet!
@drsmith33 Maybe if you get some experience in the field you will learn the right answer. Spray foam is the least used, worst choice of insulation on the market.......even rigid foam isn't justified, holmes could show a cost, and return spreadsheet from many different sources that will show that they are spending more than they will ever save. Holmes won't do that, he is a hack and probably doesn't even know the software exists.
@HomeEnergyNow Look, there are many ways to skin a cat. As 1asadoc1 commented below, google "building science" and on its website type "basement insulation" in the search field. you will get all the layman and technical information for insulating and finishing a basement.
The use of the rigid foam behind the studs, or leaving a 1 inch gap and spraying foam behind them, also helps with radiant temperature transfer.
@HomeEnergyNow I have attic bedrooms with 9" insulation between the rafters. I tore the drywall off one room and added 1" rigid insulation board over the studs, leaving the other insulation alone, and re-drywalled it. Using a thermal temperature gun, I literally get a 10 - 15 degree temperature readiing on the drywall surface from one room with the rigid board to the next without. This is in the summer time, of course, when attic heat is the issue. It is called radiant transfer!!!!!!!!!!
@drsmith33 Radiant transfer is blocked by radiant barriers, not typical insulations like foam. That is called conductive transfer. R value is for resistance, E value is for emissivity. Certain projects could justify rigid foam board, but it is rare since the DOE recommends AGAINST vapor barriers, which is what rigid foam is. If you put that foam board in your attic room ceiling, or walls, just expect mold or dry rot issues, not if, when. People need to stop it with DIY ignorance, like holmes.
@HomeEnergyNow No, I will not have a mold or dry rot issue. I already had an issue with the insulation bats being right up against the roof sheeting. Put in rafter baffles to cure this, so they could breathe. The DOE does not recommend against the use of a vapor barrier here. I had a severe heat issue on the second floor until I implemented several measures, including better attic ventilation. Another thing, stop being so condescending to people on here. It is uncalled for.
@GPE001 Yeah, I forget there are many permeables, I just think his method is retarded. They are best suited, for outside of the basement walls where they don't eat up living space that can cost hundreds/sqft.
@drsmith33 10-15 degrees sounds right, that is about what a thin layer of radiant barrier foil would have done also. But when approaching home energy, projects are typically calculated first to make sure you dont spend more than you save. In the summer the amount of heat that comes through just your insulated wall that the a/c takes out, is less than 5% of the total heat . Even if you eliminate all heat trasfer through your walls, it would make a very tiny overall difference on your bills.
@drsmith33 that must be why spray foam has a whopping <5% of the insulation market. I am starting to run out of patience for spray foam ignorance. LEARN TO DO A MANUAL J YOU IGNORANT SPRAY FOAM FANS!!!!!!!!!!!!! STOP PRETENDING YOU KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT INSULATION OR HOME ENERGY!!!!!! Oh, I don't need an energy licence, you think I should just google building science! LOL!!!! WTF PEOPLE? Really? What do they say about spending a dollar to save a dime? Different climates?
@HomeEnergyNow Why so much anger? I have never used spray foam. It is too expensive, but I can see the upsides of it in certain situations. And yes, I have done a manual J before when putting in a boiler at my father's house. In my house, I am just trying to solve some issues with some hot zones in the summer, and cold zones in the winter. I am attacking them from different angles - insulation, HVAC, roof ventilation, etc......
BTW - anger just proves that u are losing your argument!!
@drsmith33 There is no argument, I am trying to correct your mistake. I am angry because you offer information yet you are NOT even close to a home energy professional. Please don't add to the number of ignorant DIY's offering information that is wrong. I have to deal with people that watch and read this garbage on you-tube, or holmes on homes, they try to tell me the proper way because people w/out energy licenses like you and holmes think they know more than they do.
@HomeEnergyNow You do it your way, since you're the know it all, and I'll do it my way. I do all of my own work, so I do not have to worry about cost as much. Glad you are a "home energy professional"....yipeee. Must have been a lot of complex math involved in that degree. I have read many "energy professional" articles about insulation. Most have their own ways of doing things. Difference is, they are not arrogant like you!!
@drsmith33 ASHREA, BPI, RESNET, DOE, IRCC, all pretty much agree when it comes to cost payback, there is not "have their own ways", if you use ASHRAE's manual j, you can figure cost payback. REMrate figures cost payback, NEAT from the DOE calculates it, BPI can be used to calculate it. If holmes is going to be on the screen working in home energy, the least he could do is use just one of those and explain that with his costs on an 8%note, they will outweigh savings, 5$/month to bank to save .50$
Well .. if you are really a "home energy professional", you should know that you first have to consider the region where the client is. Mike Holmes is in the Toronto area usually; which means winter, snow, -40C, etc. Therefore, the heatloss in the basement could be around 30% if not well insulated. As an engineer (I'm not the only one), I would recommend this setup if you live in a cold area (i.e. if you've only seen snow on TV, this is not for you).
@f1NoS engineer? please tell me how the fuck that makes any difference here? Typical, give a moron a degree they think they know everything. What kind of engineer? Never seen a home energy engineer, are youthe first.? As a second generation builder turned building performance analyst, I can tell you there are almost infinite choices on how to insulate basement walls.Want me to fill out a REMrate sheet to prove it to you? Cost......Savings.. Is there a method lower cost, higher savings? YES.
@f1NoS You are exactly who I am talking about. An engineer talking about home const. or home energy, is EXACTLY an ignorant DIY. Just more arrogant than the rest because you bent over and really earned yourself a peice of paper! yay
@drsmith33 How exactly is spray foam the best way to go? Loosefill goes to R-60, spray foam barely gets past half of that. Loosefills have been around for over half a century and have been proven, the old spray foams have deteriorated or fallen off, so the foam companies "claim to have solved these problems". Guess we will see huh? Every wall has 2 air barriers so I dont want to hear any more BS about how foam seals and insulates, I have sealed air barriers I just need an insulation foam = WORST
@HomeEnergyNow Damn, are you still ranting about this subject?!! I let you have the last word, yet you still have to reply with BS!! Get a life dude!! BTW, loosefills in walls settle over time. Get an IR camera and look around at some walls filled with loosefill. It DOES NOT go to the top anymore. May be good for open attic where you can pile it high. Spray foam has more R Value per inch. Cellulose loose is 3.2 - 3.8 per inch. Closed cell spray is 6 - 7.
Adding rigid insulation to the wall and sealing it as shown will prevent moisture from interior condensation but WILL NOT eliminate water leaks through the wall. If your basement isn't already absolutely leak free, you must deal with that issue before insulating. The extruded polystyrene that they're using is the least "green" rigid insulation. A greener solution is expanded polystyrene (white beadboard) or polyisocyanurate (usually foil faced). Polyiso has the highest R-value at R-6 per inch.
@markhinr You are suppose to use the extruded polystyrene because it does breathe enough to allow minor moisture movement to dry off wicking of water. I am not talking about water problems, but all basements wick some water through the walls. You should not use the kind with the thin plastic on it.
Just for the record, this is considered the best way to insulate basement walls. I am using a 1.5 inch unfaced board with studding and unfaced batts. Walls will breathe a little, yet resist mold.
Another great thing about this method is that you don't have to install a thin polyethylene sheet in front of your insulation as the extruded polystyrene works as both a moisture barrier (prevents moisture / water from affecting the insulation) and as a vapour barrier (provided it is class 4) so that when the warm, humid air in the basement meets the dew point, it will not condence into water droplets.
You can then frame your wall in front of the XPS, and not worry about piercing your VB.
The awesome thing about this method is that you control for both moisture issues AND vapour issues (not the same thing - remember that) *IN ADDITION* to being able to add more insulation in your stud cavity.
Using 2 inch XPS against the wall (as Holmes shows) prevents a thermal bridge from being formed by your wall studs. You can then fill the studs in (either 24 inch or 16 inch on centre) with fire-retardant batting such as slag wool.
I was thinking that too - he said that a pinhole can let a cup of moisture through a season so better make sure it's sealed, and then they tapconned the plywood through the foam barrier to the concrete, without sealing the holes apperently. I think I'd want to put sealant in there before driving the tapcons in. Just my amateur guess :)...
what about the area where the floor joists are? Do you just need bat insulation in there? Can moisture get through there? Or are they more concerned about the possible moisture getting to the basement walls because they are below ground?
@Myfaceisonfirenow vapor barriers are NEVER recommended, let alone required. Mabye you meant vapor retarder? The guy in the video is a complete moron. The water seal around the basement HAS to work, otherwise you are going to have problems, that foam boad method he is using IS COMPLETE NONSENSE. Find a PROFESSIONAL. Not some fag in front of a camera.
If that foam catches fire it's very toxic and can kill you faster than a regular structure fire. In other episodes it shows them spraying that foam with a fire retardant so that it doesn't burn.
Holmes is excellent...but he goes well above and beyond x 100. He also has a budget that know one else has. It's quite interesting, my neighbours do everything he says!
Another note, my bro in law just finished his basement and did the exact same sub floor in this video, which works out to about $3.20 sqf. He then covered his pricey sub floor with a cheap $1.24 sqf laminate. $4.50 sqf floor, vs mid range carpet, high end under pad directly on concrete for $2.40 sqf installed....
@xunatz Your neighbors are MOOOOOOOOOORONS. Anybody getting const tips from some deusche on tv spend double, and wind up with a worse product, that will have to be fixed by the next homeowner, who will watch some deusche on tv, spend double, and wind up fucking it up again, this is what tv construction is ALL ABOUT, created funded produced, by your local home depot or lowes.
"Best Way"??? BULLSHIT!!! Mr Holmes could hav just fucked that foundation wall!!! This has 2be a home in a cold climate so now next to no heat gets to that wall of footing to keep it from cracking and or heaving. The better alternative would be to put rigid foam board on the Outside of the wall. Foam on the floor is ok if dry basement.Foam under slab is better.
Slabs and footings don't heave if they are 6 ft in the ground. .To put rigid insulation on the outside would require him to dig around the whole foundation and reseal it. Even HE would say that is too much.
The whole point of vapour barrier and insulation is that the hot and cold air DONT mix. Therefore reducing or eliminating the chance of condensation. If you had heat escaping to your foundation and keeping it warm as you suggest I'd say you have a problem
sorry, not sure exactly which episode this was. I was re-doing our basement, and this particular segment was very important to me so I copied from our PVR to youtube so that I could always refer to it if need be.
my concern is also the floor where moisture is often likely. would the foam prevent prevent the likely formation on the underside from bleeding through?
Polystrene has been designated as a class 1 or A flammability rating!
Therefore it is the fire block!
It looks even better with a
Architectural Fabric Laminated ,to a Acoustical Ridged panel. Not to mention the 85% noise reduction coefficient rating it would add. Drywall does not have a very good acoustical rating. Your new basement needs to be as sound proof as possibile
Reader's Digest has a huge article on this, and they say that putting up the extruded polystyrene foam insulation "eliminates the need for a plastic moisture barrier later".
@cabber24 absolutely not, if your looking at bare concrete then you already have your vap barrier outside, to put up a second one on the inside would trap any moisture that happened to leak through first membrane and cause all kinds of problems for you. The idea is to insulate with a little air infiltration to allow evap of any small amount of water vapor that may leach through to evaporate on it's own, a second vap barrier would trap the water inside the concrete and eventually cause cracking.
@cabber24 absolutely not, if your looking at bare concrete then you already have your vap barrier outside, to put up a second one on the inside would trap any moisture that happened to leak through first membrane and cause all kinds of problems for you. The idea is to insulate with a little air infiltration to allow evap of any small amount of water vapor that may leach through to evaporate on it's own, a second vap barrier would trap the water inside the concrete and eventually cause cracking
just have a shit load of towel raidiators around the room
MrBurnTec 4 weeks ago
what if you have drains in the floor?
dkpai05 1 month ago
I really have to disagree with this insulation method and for a moisture prone area, why not use pressure treated subfloor? If groundwater penetrates the floor or walls, you'll end up ripping ALL of it out in 10 years. Pipe bursts in the basement?...adios floor down the the concrete and 1 foot above water line on walls. Water heater goes?...same issue. Your $10,000 insulation job just wiped out square footage and headroom too. To each his own I guess.
djricenitrotank 1 month ago
@djricenitrotank -- I don't think pressure treated is appropriate for indoor use... there's toxic chemicals in that stuff! Maybe that 'blue wood' would be OK, but I don't believe that's rot resistant, only for mold prevention?
jeffpicks 6 days ago
i was thinking that way also but seeing those spray foam right on the concrete then maybe he's right.
taybe1230 2 months ago
Best insulation is always done on the outside of the wall.
electrodacus 2 months ago
cool video this is really help a lot for those search a tips for basement insulation..!!!
tan96993 4 months ago
just because he is confident doesn't make him right. 18-23 bucks for each 2x8 piece holms is a nut.... i don't even agree with this method anyways we will see if it proves it self or not... to many variables to say this is what you should do in your basement.
gunnersplace 8 months ago
this is retarded. You will get loads of moisture trapped between the foam and concrete. Holmes got retarded here. You should use drycore subflooring (5/8 OSB or plywood if you preffer with plastic spacing sheet glued on one side to raise the wood at least 3/8 off the concrete) Also when framing the walls there should be a 1'' air gap between the concrete and wood framing and insulation so that if water seeps in there is ventilation for drying. Tack tar paper onto the walls prior to framing.
bodolax 10 months ago
The largest benefit of spray foam is as an air sealer. Batt insulation will not perform well if it is being wind washed due to inadequate air sealing.
Typical sheathing is 1 perm.. Dow blue foam is 1.5 perms (I assume the pink is comparable). The foam is less of a vapor barrier than the plywood.
The problem with most of these jobs is the basement was not designed to be finished and the appropriate barriers were not installed. You can't make chicken soup out of chicken shit.
tbwjs 10 months ago
LOL fight fight fight!
MoneRandall 11 months ago
Let me start with just one reason holmes is a moron hack for other DIY moron hacks to follow. Doing what he just did cost about 50sqft of living space, a house that is fancy that is worth 200$/sqft, just lost 10,000$ worth of home. DO YOU IDIOTS GET IT YET? That is just the tip of the iceberg, they spent thousands to lose tens of thousands in living space, and for those of us whose chins go over holmes pussy ass head, that ceiling height wont work.
HomeEnergyNow 11 months ago
Why not surround it with gold film radiant barrier, than 10" of foam, then batting, than quiet rock, than some radiation control paint? Overkill much? Who would put this kind of hack on tv? Same businesses that could benifit from his rediculous overkill style? hmmmmmmm? If you think that diy education or entertainment is why he is on the air, than you deserve to spend too much renovating your house.
HomeEnergyNow 11 months ago
Loving your videos, I teach Contractors how to Buy & Sell houses, I am looking to promote my video's. Please review my Video's, any help would be greatly appreciated.
renobible 1 year ago
How do you frame the walls over the foam?
linoleum1979 1 year ago
@linoleum1979
google "building science" and on its website type "basement insulation" in the search field. you will get all the layman and technical information for insulating and finishing a basement.
1asadoc1 1 year ago
@1asadoc1 You will get "building science Corporations" opinion of finishing a basement. There is no "building science" that everybody agrees on, party because the people at building science Corporation are idiots and nobody uses their techniques except lost fools on the internet!
HomeEnergyNow 3 weeks ago
This has been flagged as spam show
so this insulation is waterproof?
no worries from flooding outside?
BrockRockwell00 1 year ago
so this insulation is waterproof?
no worries from flooding outside?
BrockRockwell00 1 year ago
@EllisEndye Yes, spray foam is the best way to go, but it is extremely expensive. Short of spray foam, this is the way to go.
drsmith33 1 year ago
@drsmith33 Maybe if you get some experience in the field you will learn the right answer. Spray foam is the least used, worst choice of insulation on the market.......even rigid foam isn't justified, holmes could show a cost, and return spreadsheet from many different sources that will show that they are spending more than they will ever save. Holmes won't do that, he is a hack and probably doesn't even know the software exists.
HomeEnergyNow 11 months ago
@HomeEnergyNow Look, there are many ways to skin a cat. As 1asadoc1 commented below, google "building science" and on its website type "basement insulation" in the search field. you will get all the layman and technical information for insulating and finishing a basement.
The use of the rigid foam behind the studs, or leaving a 1 inch gap and spraying foam behind them, also helps with radiant temperature transfer.
drsmith33 11 months ago
@HomeEnergyNow I have attic bedrooms with 9" insulation between the rafters. I tore the drywall off one room and added 1" rigid insulation board over the studs, leaving the other insulation alone, and re-drywalled it. Using a thermal temperature gun, I literally get a 10 - 15 degree temperature readiing on the drywall surface from one room with the rigid board to the next without. This is in the summer time, of course, when attic heat is the issue. It is called radiant transfer!!!!!!!!!!
drsmith33 11 months ago
@drsmith33 Radiant transfer is blocked by radiant barriers, not typical insulations like foam. That is called conductive transfer. R value is for resistance, E value is for emissivity. Certain projects could justify rigid foam board, but it is rare since the DOE recommends AGAINST vapor barriers, which is what rigid foam is. If you put that foam board in your attic room ceiling, or walls, just expect mold or dry rot issues, not if, when. People need to stop it with DIY ignorance, like holmes.
HomeEnergyNow 11 months ago
@HomeEnergyNow No, I will not have a mold or dry rot issue. I already had an issue with the insulation bats being right up against the roof sheeting. Put in rafter baffles to cure this, so they could breathe. The DOE does not recommend against the use of a vapor barrier here. I had a severe heat issue on the second floor until I implemented several measures, including better attic ventilation. Another thing, stop being so condescending to people on here. It is uncalled for.
drsmith33 11 months ago
@HomeEnergyNow
DOE does NOT call XPS a vapor barrier - they call Polyethylene a vapor barrier.
Based on current technology, the DOE currently considers EPS & XPS to be the semi-permeables that are best suited for insulating basement walls.
Look for acrobat file 35017 on the DOE website (youtube won't let me post a link.
GPE001 9 months ago
@GPE001 Yeah, I forget there are many permeables, I just think his method is retarded. They are best suited, for outside of the basement walls where they don't eat up living space that can cost hundreds/sqft.
HomeEnergyNow 9 months ago
@drsmith33 10-15 degrees sounds right, that is about what a thin layer of radiant barrier foil would have done also. But when approaching home energy, projects are typically calculated first to make sure you dont spend more than you save. In the summer the amount of heat that comes through just your insulated wall that the a/c takes out, is less than 5% of the total heat . Even if you eliminate all heat trasfer through your walls, it would make a very tiny overall difference on your bills.
HomeEnergyNow 11 months ago
For natural insulation solutions home owners will find WEKA wool panels more interesting
Onach17 9 months ago
@drsmith33 that must be why spray foam has a whopping <5% of the insulation market. I am starting to run out of patience for spray foam ignorance. LEARN TO DO A MANUAL J YOU IGNORANT SPRAY FOAM FANS!!!!!!!!!!!!! STOP PRETENDING YOU KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT INSULATION OR HOME ENERGY!!!!!! Oh, I don't need an energy licence, you think I should just google building science! LOL!!!! WTF PEOPLE? Really? What do they say about spending a dollar to save a dime? Different climates?
HomeEnergyNow 11 months ago
@HomeEnergyNow Why so much anger? I have never used spray foam. It is too expensive, but I can see the upsides of it in certain situations. And yes, I have done a manual J before when putting in a boiler at my father's house. In my house, I am just trying to solve some issues with some hot zones in the summer, and cold zones in the winter. I am attacking them from different angles - insulation, HVAC, roof ventilation, etc......
BTW - anger just proves that u are losing your argument!!
drsmith33 11 months ago
@drsmith33 There is no argument, I am trying to correct your mistake. I am angry because you offer information yet you are NOT even close to a home energy professional. Please don't add to the number of ignorant DIY's offering information that is wrong. I have to deal with people that watch and read this garbage on you-tube, or holmes on homes, they try to tell me the proper way because people w/out energy licenses like you and holmes think they know more than they do.
HomeEnergyNow 11 months ago
@HomeEnergyNow You do it your way, since you're the know it all, and I'll do it my way. I do all of my own work, so I do not have to worry about cost as much. Glad you are a "home energy professional"....yipeee. Must have been a lot of complex math involved in that degree. I have read many "energy professional" articles about insulation. Most have their own ways of doing things. Difference is, they are not arrogant like you!!
drsmith33 11 months ago
@drsmith33 ASHREA, BPI, RESNET, DOE, IRCC, all pretty much agree when it comes to cost payback, there is not "have their own ways", if you use ASHRAE's manual j, you can figure cost payback. REMrate figures cost payback, NEAT from the DOE calculates it, BPI can be used to calculate it. If holmes is going to be on the screen working in home energy, the least he could do is use just one of those and explain that with his costs on an 8%note, they will outweigh savings, 5$/month to bank to save .50$
HomeEnergyNow 11 months ago
@HomeEnergyNow
Well .. if you are really a "home energy professional", you should know that you first have to consider the region where the client is. Mike Holmes is in the Toronto area usually; which means winter, snow, -40C, etc. Therefore, the heatloss in the basement could be around 30% if not well insulated. As an engineer (I'm not the only one), I would recommend this setup if you live in a cold area (i.e. if you've only seen snow on TV, this is not for you).
f1NoS 8 months ago
@f1NoS engineer? please tell me how the fuck that makes any difference here? Typical, give a moron a degree they think they know everything. What kind of engineer? Never seen a home energy engineer, are youthe first.? As a second generation builder turned building performance analyst, I can tell you there are almost infinite choices on how to insulate basement walls.Want me to fill out a REMrate sheet to prove it to you? Cost......Savings.. Is there a method lower cost, higher savings? YES.
HomeEnergyNow 8 months ago
@HomeEnergyNow oh my, what a big brain you have there.
humanity6fl9 1 month ago
@HomeEnergyNow spoken like a typical know-it-all american asshole
theoriginalshankster 3 weeks ago
@f1NoS You are exactly who I am talking about. An engineer talking about home const. or home energy, is EXACTLY an ignorant DIY. Just more arrogant than the rest because you bent over and really earned yourself a peice of paper! yay
HomeEnergyNow 8 months ago
@drsmith33 How exactly is spray foam the best way to go? Loosefill goes to R-60, spray foam barely gets past half of that. Loosefills have been around for over half a century and have been proven, the old spray foams have deteriorated or fallen off, so the foam companies "claim to have solved these problems". Guess we will see huh? Every wall has 2 air barriers so I dont want to hear any more BS about how foam seals and insulates, I have sealed air barriers I just need an insulation foam = WORST
HomeEnergyNow 3 weeks ago
@HomeEnergyNow Damn, are you still ranting about this subject?!! I let you have the last word, yet you still have to reply with BS!! Get a life dude!! BTW, loosefills in walls settle over time. Get an IR camera and look around at some walls filled with loosefill. It DOES NOT go to the top anymore. May be good for open attic where you can pile it high. Spray foam has more R Value per inch. Cellulose loose is 3.2 - 3.8 per inch. Closed cell spray is 6 - 7.
drsmith33 3 weeks ago
Adding rigid insulation to the wall and sealing it as shown will prevent moisture from interior condensation but WILL NOT eliminate water leaks through the wall. If your basement isn't already absolutely leak free, you must deal with that issue before insulating. The extruded polystyrene that they're using is the least "green" rigid insulation. A greener solution is expanded polystyrene (white beadboard) or polyisocyanurate (usually foil faced). Polyiso has the highest R-value at R-6 per inch.
markhinr 1 year ago
@markhinr You are suppose to use the extruded polystyrene because it does breathe enough to allow minor moisture movement to dry off wicking of water. I am not talking about water problems, but all basements wick some water through the walls. You should not use the kind with the thin plastic on it.
drsmith33 1 year ago
Just for the record, this is considered the best way to insulate basement walls. I am using a 1.5 inch unfaced board with studding and unfaced batts. Walls will breathe a little, yet resist mold.
drsmith33 1 year ago
Another great thing about this method is that you don't have to install a thin polyethylene sheet in front of your insulation as the extruded polystyrene works as both a moisture barrier (prevents moisture / water from affecting the insulation) and as a vapour barrier (provided it is class 4) so that when the warm, humid air in the basement meets the dew point, it will not condence into water droplets.
You can then frame your wall in front of the XPS, and not worry about piercing your VB.
menorche 1 year ago
The awesome thing about this method is that you control for both moisture issues AND vapour issues (not the same thing - remember that) *IN ADDITION* to being able to add more insulation in your stud cavity.
Using 2 inch XPS against the wall (as Holmes shows) prevents a thermal bridge from being formed by your wall studs. You can then fill the studs in (either 24 inch or 16 inch on centre) with fire-retardant batting such as slag wool.
It doesn't meet code - it exceeds it.
menorche 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
do you know what kind of caulking and tape they used here?
bransta81 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
do you know what kind of caulking and tape they used here?
bransta81 1 year ago
do you know what kind of caulking and tape they used here?
bransta81 1 year ago
It seems the drill holes will let moisture through? Please help?
WordofMobile 1 year ago
I was thinking that too - he said that a pinhole can let a cup of moisture through a season so better make sure it's sealed, and then they tapconned the plywood through the foam barrier to the concrete, without sealing the holes apperently. I think I'd want to put sealant in there before driving the tapcons in. Just my amateur guess :)...
spooner534 1 year ago
what about the area where the floor joists are? Do you just need bat insulation in there? Can moisture get through there? Or are they more concerned about the possible moisture getting to the basement walls because they are below ground?
crazboy 1 year ago
@crazboy It is required by code that joist ends have insulation and vapour barrier as well, along with acoustic sealant .
Myfaceisonfirenow 1 year ago
@Myfaceisonfirenow vapor barriers are NEVER recommended, let alone required. Mabye you meant vapor retarder? The guy in the video is a complete moron. The water seal around the basement HAS to work, otherwise you are going to have problems, that foam boad method he is using IS COMPLETE NONSENSE. Find a PROFESSIONAL. Not some fag in front of a camera.
d1incharge 1 year ago
If that foam catches fire it's very toxic and can kill you faster than a regular structure fire. In other episodes it shows them spraying that foam with a fire retardant so that it doesn't burn.
Myfaceisonfirenow 1 year ago
Holmes is excellent...but he goes well above and beyond x 100. He also has a budget that know one else has. It's quite interesting, my neighbours do everything he says!
Another note, my bro in law just finished his basement and did the exact same sub floor in this video, which works out to about $3.20 sqf. He then covered his pricey sub floor with a cheap $1.24 sqf laminate. $4.50 sqf floor, vs mid range carpet, high end under pad directly on concrete for $2.40 sqf installed....
xunatz 1 year ago
@xunatz Your neighbors are MOOOOOOOOOORONS. Anybody getting const tips from some deusche on tv spend double, and wind up with a worse product, that will have to be fixed by the next homeowner, who will watch some deusche on tv, spend double, and wind up fucking it up again, this is what tv construction is ALL ABOUT, created funded produced, by your local home depot or lowes.
d1incharge 1 year ago
overkill? maybe.. but why not invest the money and do it right
frale777 2 years ago
@frale777 ...because it's called overkill and you don't need to do it. The last time I checked, houses aren't space shuttles.
xunatz 1 year ago
overkill
EnjoyThis2224U 2 years ago
He's in Toronto, Ontario (Canada).
natlgeo 2 years ago
would it be wise to put up the foam board THEN put studs up, then fiberglass? Or is that overkill?
ijp66 2 years ago
"Best Way"??? BULLSHIT!!! Mr Holmes could hav just fucked that foundation wall!!! This has 2be a home in a cold climate so now next to no heat gets to that wall of footing to keep it from cracking and or heaving. The better alternative would be to put rigid foam board on the Outside of the wall. Foam on the floor is ok if dry basement.Foam under slab is better.
01mustang05 2 years ago
Slabs and footings don't heave if they are 6 ft in the ground. .To put rigid insulation on the outside would require him to dig around the whole foundation and reseal it. Even HE would say that is too much.
The whole point of vapour barrier and insulation is that the hot and cold air DONT mix. Therefore reducing or eliminating the chance of condensation. If you had heat escaping to your foundation and keeping it warm as you suggest I'd say you have a problem
I sure hope you arent a contractor
Myfaceisonfirenow 1 year ago
Comment removed
LIPowerAuthority 2 years ago
somebody should show this video to the spray foam goons.
d1incharge 2 years ago
wow, you just dont give up, tell me did your wife get the house in the divorce and your still paying for the foam? LOL
datzfast 1 year ago
damn i wish i saw this before i did my basement up
dsouzand 2 years ago
What episode is this?? Did they do the full basement?
alibahry 2 years ago 3
sorry, not sure exactly which episode this was. I was re-doing our basement, and this particular segment was very important to me so I copied from our PVR to youtube so that I could always refer to it if need be.
xhumeka 2 years ago
@alibahry Season 5 Episode 5 "Bargain Basement". Yes, they redid the whole basement.
itsmeoc11 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@alibahry Season 5 Episode 5 "Bargain Basement". Yes, they redid the whole basement.
itsmeoc11 1 year ago
@alibahry Its Episode 5 of season 5. Theres the whole episode on youtube (4 parts). Look for DrDRutherford's Channel... hes got it up there.
4x12 2 months ago
@alibahry Season 5 - Episode EP5057: Bargain Basement
theoriginalshankster 3 weeks ago
my concern is also the floor where moisture is often likely. would the foam prevent prevent the likely formation on the underside from bleeding through?
jimlupi 2 years ago
what if there is moisture/ water seepage wont this trap it and cause mold?
jimlupi 2 years ago
see , I would have painted all the concrete walls and floor first with dry-loc or similar product
smethious 2 years ago
im def after watching this video.
InShatteredMolds 2 years ago
They don't show it in this video, but a 1/2" drywall layer is recommended over polystyrene as a fire barrier. It also looks better!
mortier9 2 years ago
Polystrene has been designated as a class 1 or A flammability rating!
Therefore it is the fire block!
It looks even better with a
Architectural Fabric Laminated ,to a Acoustical Ridged panel. Not to mention the 85% noise reduction coefficient rating it would add. Drywall does not have a very good acoustical rating. Your new basement needs to be as sound proof as possibile
johndoglifting 2 years ago
Reader's Digest has a huge article on this, and they say that putting up the extruded polystyrene foam insulation "eliminates the need for a plastic moisture barrier later".
Google that quote to find the article.
anti0918 3 years ago
Would you then put a vapour barrier on top of the foam? ie. 6mm plastic?
cabber24 3 years ago
Fuck i hate that show.
DGrant1010 2 years ago
wtf its a great show!
smethious 2 years ago
@cabber24 absolutely not, if your looking at bare concrete then you already have your vap barrier outside, to put up a second one on the inside would trap any moisture that happened to leak through first membrane and cause all kinds of problems for you. The idea is to insulate with a little air infiltration to allow evap of any small amount of water vapor that may leach through to evaporate on it's own, a second vap barrier would trap the water inside the concrete and eventually cause cracking.
JRNYrocks 1 year ago
@JRNYrocks Thank you god somebody out there understands. Well put.
d1incharge 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@cabber24 absolutely not, if your looking at bare concrete then you already have your vap barrier outside, to put up a second one on the inside would trap any moisture that happened to leak through first membrane and cause all kinds of problems for you. The idea is to insulate with a little air infiltration to allow evap of any small amount of water vapor that may leach through to evaporate on it's own, a second vap barrier would trap the water inside the concrete and eventually cause cracking
JRNYrocks 1 year ago
How do you install electrical in that!?
reichec 3 years ago
You build walls after and install it the way you normaly would.
Trigger51506 3 years ago