i cant believe how smoothe your bandsaw is. Mine's 24" pm and i think i need to replace the tires (which i have) but holly cow theyre not easy to change!
Great video as usual, Marc! This is going to save me some money- I am about to remodel my kitchen using hardwood flooring, and doing this should save quite a bit of loot over buying veneer floor slats. Just make it a little thicker and cut a tongue and groove and it should work out nice. Thanks again!
I wouldn't mention this, but I noticed you used titebond II on the cutting board - titebond III would have been a better choice due to it's higher ANSI rating.
Here, you used Titebond III for the fence, when Titebond I would have sufficed at about 1/2 -1/3 the cost.
What gives?
Anyway, love your videos. I see a few "mistakes" here and there, but I also learn something in every video. How'd a young guy like you get so much expertise (i.e. who trained you)?
@dchamberss Usually I just use what I have on hand. I don't consider the strength differences between I, II, and III to be dramatic enough to justify stocking them all and using them selectively based on strength. So I base my decisions on what I have on hand at the time and how much water the piece will see.
As for my training, I worked with David Marks for a short time, and I spent about a year working in a refinishing shop. The rest (most) is self-training and studying.
Can you do the same thing with 2X6 and 2X4 since my idea is to buy slab doors and veneer them with natural wood designs. I don't have a band saw but my friend does. Any tips on this? Also thanks for your answer on my previous question.
@papadonto8 You can do it with any wood, really. That's what makes veneering so great. You can take any wood you want and make it last a long time. Or make an entire table top from one piece of wood. And in your case, re-skin a door. If you do decide to do a bunch of these doors, you may want to look into vacuum press.
Nice presentation. Kind of hard to believe that you get 8 sheets from a 1" board, though. Especially rough cutting to 1/8". I'm good and I'm lucky to get 5-6 on nice straight grain stock. And I wouldn't recommend gluing down a sawn surface. At least clean it up with a scraper. What blade are you using in the resaw?
how thin could you go by this method?, how thin could you go with a thickness planer?. id like to make a skateboard and veneer seems hard to come by around here.
It really depends on how well-tuned your drum sander is. I know guys who have it so well tuned that they pretty much make paper thin sheets of veneer just for fun. So You can pretty much go as thin as you dare.
thanks for the info, the site im getting the info from says the veneer thickness ranges from (.058 / 1.47mm) to (.050 / 1.27mm) for the cross band.i would imagine these are factory produced and machined, probably too thin to do myself. ill keep watching your videos for more tips though.
i dont consider that a veneer. it is rather thick and what do you do with the end grain? (say on a table top) glued to a sub-straight it could be quite unstable and it is not economical givin that with that thickness of veneer. both sides of the sub-straight will be required to be veneered in order to maintain stability. thats my position. Mean whyle commercial veneers can often be quite thin.
Generally anything less than 1/8" is considered veneer. Treating the end grain using home sawn veneer is no different than when you use any other veneer. You still need to cover up the ugly substrate. At around 3/32", these thick veneers are quite stable even over wide surfaces. And I agree that you would want to veneer both sides to maintain equilibrium.
generally when i use veener i vacuume press it with a solids glued on the edge of my substraight that way my veneer covers both the substraight and the solid edging, leaving a clean edge. with 1/8" or 3/16" veneer the endgrain of the veneer is much more noticable. i guess that apeals to some to look good.
I agree that 1/8"-3/16" would give a pretty noticeable border. I suppose some might like it. But the veneer I am talking about in this video is bandsawn at about 1/8" and sanded down to 3/32". Thats starting to get thin enough that the endgrain becomes less and less of an issue.
But ultimately, to each his own. Many folks just trim out the veneered board after the veneering is done, which gives a noticeable border regardless of the veneer thickness. And same thing when making panels.
yes that would work quite well as a floating panel. i dont want to arguee. its just interesting to see how every woodworker dose thing slightly different then the next. I studyed with Mark Paddison threw Humber College in Toronto. keep up the videos, i do like your design taste, how many people work in that shop?
really its only you? I share a shop with a friend only a few hundred square feet. You are very fortunite to be able to work alone. your shop looks huge and from what i see in the videos you got really awesome tools. seams like a cool and creative place to work.
Yup just me. Oddly enough, I might be moving very soon and I will have to downsize the shop a bit. But I used to work in a small garage so I am no stranger to tight quarters, despite being spoiled for the past 4 years. :)
tight quarters are always associated to woodworking shops for some reason. haha. its all about making things work. i have a electric hoist that my 4'x8' veneer press is hung on and it hangs in the cieling above the table saw. iv seen some small shops that are just are amazingly orginized.
Using this veneering tech you could make two of any project out of the same amount of solid wood. That's the point. Veneers in days really gone by were much thicker than the 'toilet-tissue' we get these days, so this is a way of making your timber go further, plus you can clean up with a plane afterwards. Try that with modern veneers.
can you make one on a video if you can please and if your nice u can send it to me?
FSSCHANGE 2 months ago
can you make a fingerboard with the home cut veneer ?
FSSCHANGE 2 months ago
@FSSCHANGE I guess if you can find a way to bend the ends without splitting it, you probably can.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 months ago
i cant believe how smoothe your bandsaw is. Mine's 24" pm and i think i need to replace the tires (which i have) but holly cow theyre not easy to change!
missionron 1 year ago
@missionron yeah replacing tires is a real pain in the butt!
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
pretty much like prepping veneers for building musical instruments!!
weerpool14 1 year ago
Whats the brand of the black/green cordless drill ?
mqmqmwmw 1 year ago
@mqmqmwmw The brand is Festool.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
Great show. I made a cutting board for valentines day and it made my girlfriends day! Thanks again.
littlemini1 1 year ago
i love how over built your fence is, screws nails and glue and it coulda used half the supports!
totally the same thing i would have done! keep on with the great videos
bloodseedrums 1 year ago
Hi, what size brad nails do you use for this project? Cool Video Thx!
Yaridnac 1 year ago
@Yaridnac If I recall correctly they were probably just 18ga.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
Thanks! Very well done!
totallystupid001 1 year ago
Great video as usual, Marc! This is going to save me some money- I am about to remodel my kitchen using hardwood flooring, and doing this should save quite a bit of loot over buying veneer floor slats. Just make it a little thicker and cut a tongue and groove and it should work out nice. Thanks again!
CragarShinoda 1 year ago
do you set your fence for drift before re sawing?
samson1520022000 1 year ago
@samson1520022000 Absolutely!
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
I wouldn't mention this, but I noticed you used titebond II on the cutting board - titebond III would have been a better choice due to it's higher ANSI rating.
Here, you used Titebond III for the fence, when Titebond I would have sufficed at about 1/2 -1/3 the cost.
What gives?
Anyway, love your videos. I see a few "mistakes" here and there, but I also learn something in every video. How'd a young guy like you get so much expertise (i.e. who trained you)?
Thanks.
dchamberss 1 year ago
@dchamberss Usually I just use what I have on hand. I don't consider the strength differences between I, II, and III to be dramatic enough to justify stocking them all and using them selectively based on strength. So I base my decisions on what I have on hand at the time and how much water the piece will see.
As for my training, I worked with David Marks for a short time, and I spent about a year working in a refinishing shop. The rest (most) is self-training and studying.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
good vid. now only thing you need are nude chicks in the background farting
c0kar7 1 year ago
@c0kar7 Well, you supply the nude chicks and I'll feed 'em the beans.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago 4
Can you do the same thing with 2X6 and 2X4 since my idea is to buy slab doors and veneer them with natural wood designs. I don't have a band saw but my friend does. Any tips on this? Also thanks for your answer on my previous question.
papadonto8 1 year ago
@papadonto8 You can do it with any wood, really. That's what makes veneering so great. You can take any wood you want and make it last a long time. Or make an entire table top from one piece of wood. And in your case, re-skin a door. If you do decide to do a bunch of these doors, you may want to look into vacuum press.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
where do u buy veneer
DuctTaper98 1 year ago
@DuctTaper98 There are many places on line that sell veneer. One that I really like is Veneer Supplies.
TheWoodWhisperer 1 year ago
Nice presentation. Kind of hard to believe that you get 8 sheets from a 1" board, though. Especially rough cutting to 1/8". I'm good and I'm lucky to get 5-6 on nice straight grain stock. And I wouldn't recommend gluing down a sawn surface. At least clean it up with a scraper. What blade are you using in the resaw?
wcswood 2 years ago
how thin could you go by this method?, how thin could you go with a thickness planer?. id like to make a skateboard and veneer seems hard to come by around here.
rpto 2 years ago
It really depends on how well-tuned your drum sander is. I know guys who have it so well tuned that they pretty much make paper thin sheets of veneer just for fun. So You can pretty much go as thin as you dare.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
thanks for the info, the site im getting the info from says the veneer thickness ranges from (.058 / 1.47mm) to (.050 / 1.27mm) for the cross band.i would imagine these are factory produced and machined, probably too thin to do myself. ill keep watching your videos for more tips though.
rpto 2 years ago
i dont consider that a veneer. it is rather thick and what do you do with the end grain? (say on a table top) glued to a sub-straight it could be quite unstable and it is not economical givin that with that thickness of veneer. both sides of the sub-straight will be required to be veneered in order to maintain stability. thats my position. Mean whyle commercial veneers can often be quite thin.
joe65968 2 years ago
Generally anything less than 1/8" is considered veneer. Treating the end grain using home sawn veneer is no different than when you use any other veneer. You still need to cover up the ugly substrate. At around 3/32", these thick veneers are quite stable even over wide surfaces. And I agree that you would want to veneer both sides to maintain equilibrium.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
generally when i use veener i vacuume press it with a solids glued on the edge of my substraight that way my veneer covers both the substraight and the solid edging, leaving a clean edge. with 1/8" or 3/16" veneer the endgrain of the veneer is much more noticable. i guess that apeals to some to look good.
joe65968 2 years ago
I agree that 1/8"-3/16" would give a pretty noticeable border. I suppose some might like it. But the veneer I am talking about in this video is bandsawn at about 1/8" and sanded down to 3/32". Thats starting to get thin enough that the endgrain becomes less and less of an issue.
But ultimately, to each his own. Many folks just trim out the veneered board after the veneering is done, which gives a noticeable border regardless of the veneer thickness. And same thing when making panels.
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
yes that would work quite well as a floating panel. i dont want to arguee. its just interesting to see how every woodworker dose thing slightly different then the next. I studyed with Mark Paddison threw Humber College in Toronto. keep up the videos, i do like your design taste, how many people work in that shop?
joe65968 2 years ago
No argument here. Just different ways of accomplishing a task. And I actually have a one-man shop. Its all me. :)
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
really its only you? I share a shop with a friend only a few hundred square feet. You are very fortunite to be able to work alone. your shop looks huge and from what i see in the videos you got really awesome tools. seams like a cool and creative place to work.
joe65968 2 years ago
Yup just me. Oddly enough, I might be moving very soon and I will have to downsize the shop a bit. But I used to work in a small garage so I am no stranger to tight quarters, despite being spoiled for the past 4 years. :)
TheWoodWhisperer 2 years ago
tight quarters are always associated to woodworking shops for some reason. haha. its all about making things work. i have a electric hoist that my 4'x8' veneer press is hung on and it hangs in the cieling above the table saw. iv seen some small shops that are just are amazingly orginized.
joe65968 2 years ago
Heck, with the time you spent doing that, you might as well use solid wood.
handmetheclip 3 years ago
Using this veneering tech you could make two of any project out of the same amount of solid wood. That's the point. Veneers in days really gone by were much thicker than the 'toilet-tissue' we get these days, so this is a way of making your timber go further, plus you can clean up with a plane afterwards. Try that with modern veneers.
Jazzwayze 3 years ago
Haha, not in my world they aren't. :)
TheWoodWhisperer 3 years ago
Nice clear instructions...Thanks....also nice Bandsaw!!!
dct1960 3 years ago
the only thing that paper thin veneer is good for is making fingerboards
MatthewRobinsonfb 3 years ago
Great Series !
hankcampbell 4 years ago
good job
Katantika 4 years ago
Thanks for posting this video...it really helped in my graduate study project
praneshram 4 years ago