Check your cars service manual. Procedure do vary for adjusting/seating bearings. The last thing you want to do is repeat the job again do improper procedures. Sometimes they call for a torque specification to be applied.
"there is no torque specification for this" last i check there was, some use a inital torque specc to set the bearings then loosen and snug it back hand tight. Some have a outright torque specc for its final lock down.
i do not no who taught him how to do wheel bearings but u need to put a slight preload on the bearing,#2 u don't need to put grease in the bearing cap just wasts it,#3 a good mechanic does not use a carpenters hammer to do mechanical work use a ball pein hammer,this man needs to be taught how to be a mechanic,i have been a mechanic for 60 odd yrs. just my nickles worth.
your the best man you show the steps and make it so anyone can understand and do these things at home thanks for saving me money on the little jobs so when the big jobs come down the road i can afford to have them done
There is too a torque spec. Older chryslers for example with front drums require 90 in/lb torque when spinning the wheel forward. When the wheel stops, back off the castle nut one castleation, install the cotter pin, then you're done.
He put more grease in the cap than he did on the wheel bearings!!!! I don't like seeing mechanics use channel locks either!! Use an adjustable wrench or proper sized open end so you don't hack up the hardware with gouge marks.
I can not believe that you are using chassis grease to do this. THIS IS WRONG!! Please people, use ONLY wheel bearing grease which usually comes in a small tub. Put the wheel bearing in the palm of your hand overfill the center and press until it comes through the outside roller cage, then spin and work it through. DO NOT skimp on grease. Put plenty in the rotor cavity between the inner and outer bearing too.
Once a year is good, but probably a little overkill. Spin the rotors when you replace disc pads. If there is no play or rough resistance in the hub, throw a small glob of fresh grease in the dust cap and let it go.Remember, no torque on the spindle nut, just snug contact, and put in the cotter pin. This has always been a good guideline for me.
Check your cars service manual. Procedure do vary for adjusting/seating bearings. The last thing you want to do is repeat the job again do improper procedures. Sometimes they call for a torque specification to be applied.
pureluck30 10 months ago
For Ford trucks the final factory torque on the final setting is 17 inch pounds
midlantic1 10 months ago
Good enough for us shade tree mechanics. They wanted 500 bucks to change my rotors.
1001erickp 10 months ago
"there is no torque specification for this" last i check there was, some use a inital torque specc to set the bearings then loosen and snug it back hand tight. Some have a outright torque specc for its final lock down.
Lokivoid 11 months ago
i do not no who taught him how to do wheel bearings but u need to put a slight preload on the bearing,#2 u don't need to put grease in the bearing cap just wasts it,#3 a good mechanic does not use a carpenters hammer to do mechanical work use a ball pein hammer,this man needs to be taught how to be a mechanic,i have been a mechanic for 60 odd yrs. just my nickles worth.
mrfixitok 1 year ago
your the best man you show the steps and make it so anyone can understand and do these things at home thanks for saving me money on the little jobs so when the big jobs come down the road i can afford to have them done
427stephen 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
johnnydo333 1 year ago
Comment removed
johnnydo333 1 year ago
I always use a spanner wich is the right size,instead of a PLUMBERS tool called plier
Hanzey666 1 year ago
I mean damn.....it would be nice if these videos were numbered. Where is the second part?
twocornell 1 year ago 5
This idiots test will not work with sandwich rotors. take your rotor off and try to wiggle the hub.
o7powerwagon 2 years ago
Dont you think you should tell people to clean the gress off the rotter?
l0l0lol0l 2 years ago
@l0l0lol0l
thats in the next video
tomi1988 2 years ago
where is my coffee!
maxestuardo 2 years ago
overtighten the wheel bearing to set the bearing, then back off till you have the correct tightness.
Tank Mechanic
PPDMOSTWANTED 2 years ago
There is too a torque spec. Older chryslers for example with front drums require 90 in/lb torque when spinning the wheel forward. When the wheel stops, back off the castle nut one castleation, install the cotter pin, then you're done.
drh4683 2 years ago
He put more grease in the cap than he did on the wheel bearings!!!! I don't like seeing mechanics use channel locks either!! Use an adjustable wrench or proper sized open end so you don't hack up the hardware with gouge marks.
drh4683 2 years ago
I can not believe that you are using chassis grease to do this. THIS IS WRONG!! Please people, use ONLY wheel bearing grease which usually comes in a small tub. Put the wheel bearing in the palm of your hand overfill the center and press until it comes through the outside roller cage, then spin and work it through. DO NOT skimp on grease. Put plenty in the rotor cavity between the inner and outer bearing too.
hiwayman0 2 years ago
how often do you have to do this to your vehicle?
ihatedemocrats11 2 years ago
Once a year is good, but probably a little overkill. Spin the rotors when you replace disc pads. If there is no play or rough resistance in the hub, throw a small glob of fresh grease in the dust cap and let it go.Remember, no torque on the spindle nut, just snug contact, and put in the cotter pin. This has always been a good guideline for me.
hiwayman0 2 years ago
@hiwayman0 fuck you prick
TheAnth132 10 months ago
ughhh learn to spell and i can see the video just fine..no *lighting* problem
scott21992 3 years ago
if u r doing such kinda vdos u better provide us with proper lightening conditions(its a equest)
kamikim1 3 years ago
Use a rubber mallet to tap dust caps into place!
99minerkc 3 years ago