Added: 4 years ago
From: ClayThrower
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  • Any update on how the silicone fared?

  • @thirteenfingers

    Some came off over time, but most of it has lasted quite well and I like the way it functions. It is a bit of a time consuming extra step, but for some pots it is a nice touch.

  • @ClayThrower Thanks. The only thing I've ever used silicone for is around the bath tub, and that never lasts well, so I did wonder how it'd hold up on a mug.

    I might have to try it some time.

  • where do you get all of these ingredients?

  • @ironlionkalo

    M&M pottery supply in Cory Pa. Any ceramic supplier should have this stuff.

    

  • Do you know how to glaze beads so that the glaze doesn't go into the hole of the rod that holds the bead

  • I've not done this, but I've heard you can use dry spaghetti pasta and form the clay beads around it. Maybe single fire it with glaze on it? The pasta burns out, leaving a clean hole...though in a glaze fire I'm not sure how you'd then suspend the bead so you could glaze the whole thing...hmm...

    If you have a rod or wire to hold the glazed beads, maybe just using a toothpick or some other plug to keep the glaze from entering the hole, then clean it up after dipping.

    good luck solving it.

  • Thanks for the advice.

  • @akatim456 They sell ceramic "trees" that have small heat-resistant wires and you can put your beads on the tree and fire.

  • What was the temperature you used? And how long you fired?

  • I fired those mugs to cone 10 reduction. It took about 8 hours or so. The test tile and the end result were quite different, making me question my methods. Anyway...

  • Would distilled water make any difference in the outcome?

  • Perhaps, but probably not too much. I've always just used tap water.

  • nope. I don't have any volcanic ash.

  • Sorry, I should have said this in my last comment.

    (Cone 8-10, reduction)

  • Sorry, I should have said this in my last comment.

    (Cone 8-10, reduction)

  • Have you ever tried Volcanic Ash Matt Glaze?The ingredients are ....

    Volcanic Ash - 26.9%

    Colemanite - 7.5%

    Magnesium Carbonate - 7.5%

    Nepheline Syenite - 19.4%

    Whiting - 16.1%

    Kaolin - 17.2%

    Flint - 5.4%

    *applied thinly, this glaze is a buff red color; applied thickly, it is yellow-green*

  • An important note to anyone mixing glazes is to wear a proper respirator when working with raw materials. Generally a quart of water will be just right for 1000 gram batch however materials vary in absorption. Play safe.

  • How does the relative density of the glaze affect its properties?

    I've bought a bunch of books about chemistry to go through this winter. Any books specifically on pottery chemistry/glazes that you would suggest would be most welcome!

    What about glazes running? Good rubbing tip, I'll try that! How do you stop running? And how do you remove kiln wash if you want to renew it?

  • thicker glaze = thicker glaze coat.

    thinner glaze = thinner glaze coat.

    A thick glaze is more apt to run, crawl, craze, and misbehave, but it can also look very nice. A very thin glaze can be rough and unattractive. I mix until it looks about like Heavy Cream.

  • All are good books:

    The Complete Guide to High-fire Glazes - by John Britt

    Clay and Glazes for the Potter - by. D. Rhodes

    The Ceramic Spectrum - by R. Hopper

  • Will check those out! Which one is best for a chemistry idiot? ;-)

  • Running can be caused by over firing a glaze, (firing it too hot); not enough alumina or too much flux (kinda the same thing); too thick of a coat of glaze.

    A good drip edge on the bottom will help stop drips, proper glaze thickness is also important. If you know it will run, but want to use it anyway, set it on a soft brick pad and chip and grind it later.

  • How about bubbling? I mean bubbles that end up like little craters in to the clay. Driving me crazy with a couple of claze combinations I love, but can't get smoothe!

  • Use runny glazes on the top of a pot, and other less runny ones lower. A high foot can help, or again, a well defined drip edge.

    As for kiln wash, I'm still working on that. Most I have used does not come off the shelf once it's been fired.  One just re-coats a new layer of wash over the old layer as needed.

  • My problem is that the kiln-wash has crazed and thus the bowl that ran uncontrolably attached the wash to the shelf. Gonna try simply removing it with sandpaper, though.

  • ya, when that happens, you need to grind out all the glaze. I use a disk grinder and find it works well.

  • Thank you. I much enjoy your pottery videos.

    They really make me want to someday experiment with my own glazes.

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