I use one 40mil gasket in this video. However I recommend the you use 80 or 120mil. I like 80 but 120 seems to be more efficient. Remember to tighten you bolts before and after each run. Good luck with your prodject.
at least you have a go and put results on here for everyone to see. have you read the tero ranta that scarecrow has its worth a read. rubber gromits i am unsure if it will help as it creates less current leakage but also has restricted the flow of gas. i know in industrial vacuum systems flexi joins (house vacuums have 50% of this) it decreases vacuum, i am woundering if this is happening too as there is a lot of hosing. i also know pneumatics and hydraulics need 3x its diameter in a bend..hmmmz
I posted the link to the Tera Ranta PDF at the top of the comments section of video (HHO Dry Cell Testing #2). I like the idea of using rubber grommets in the holes of the plates to reduce the leakage current. I used RTV and glued nylon washers into all 64 holes in my plates and that did make it much more efficient. My MMW went from 3.8 to 4.8. I SOLD the MY dry cell and I'm working on building another one with many modifications. I will be using 1/2 inch tubing on the exhaust side.
I am just n00b to this HHO technology and I can't get enough information fast enough! I have seen alot of cell designs and these seem the most intresting.
Perhaps, someday, I will create a motorcycle that runs soley on HHO.
Small engine, lightweight vehicle, small HHO production requirements....
Where did you get the gasket material from? I picked up a roll of high temp gasket for automotive use ($6). It feels almost like a fabric, but it says its good for oilpumps, waterpumps, exhaust, etc. I haven't tried it yet.
The gasket material I use is gray low density PVC shower pan liner. I got it from Home Depot and is sold in the bath tub section on a role. I don't recommend this material because it may be slightly conductive. Buna-N is a better choose and is available by the role on line.
What keeps the water level below the holes? What about running fluid in 100% of the space in the cell and letting the bubbler allow the hho to raise to the surface?
How come the current doesnt "leak" from the outer edges of the plates themselves? Esp Since the power is connected from the OUTSIDE EDGES of the plates it should travel THROUGH? Does the gasket meterial stop the current on the plates somehow?
I just dont understand how lining the 1/4" holes with tubing (though it seems to work) increase production limiting current leakage, while the ENTIRE outside edges of the cell plates are exposed un sealed and most likely leaking too?
Leakage current flows from the edge of the plate through the water to the other edge resulting in waisted heat and current. With this design the gasket keep the water from getting to the outer edges of the plates. The only edges are around the holes in the plates. The tubing has a strip cut out of it and is inserted through bottom and top row of holes. The tube rest up against the edges of the holes and gives them some insulation resulting in high performance and less heat.
I understand that the gasket holds the water in place and all that. My point is, the current doesnt STOP at the edge of the gasket it should pass right through the entire plate from end/side to side and then leak there as well? Unless im missing something, electricity seeks the apposing edge.
IN other words the power is connected EXTERNALLY on the edge of the plate, the power should flow through the ENTIRE plate to the other opposing OUTER edge of the plate and leak from those edges right?
Thanks I look forward to learing. About how much would it cost and is it possible to increase the efficiency per watt? I hear some say to use round stainless. I am going to check it out. The flip flop circuit isn't much but I want to see how it works. I just bought a 94 chevy beretta specifically for this project. I've got another vehicle (small pickup) that I am thinking about making 100 % HHO. I've seen rubbing alcohol added to the solution.
what is gained by making the holes smaller? I have my own ideas based on theories originating in my head, such as restricted flow-through and longer exposure time thus greater force out..etc...but I would like to hear your's, of course, emanating from experience :)
IMHO, I would also think some water exchange flow-through would help COOL the cell down over longer run periods? Restricting it further might cause MORE heating? Heat does seem to be the enemy for these cells, at least in my case.
The smaller holes have less of an edge for leakage currents. There is a balance between too small and not enough flow and to big and lost efficiency. 1/4in to 1/8in for the bottom and about a 1/4in for the top holes is about right. This is just from my experience. The higher you can get your efficiency the less heat you will have and more gas. Mdbreedi has achieved 8 MMW.How, I'm not sure how. I know that the bigger and more plates you have the easer it is to get a higher efficiency.
Mmm very interesting.. I saw Scarecrow mention "slitting" some tubing and putting it around the holes to "reduce leakage" on the edges. I wonder how much that would actually help?
So maybe putting some kind of high temp rubber grommet/insert into them might not be a bad idea?
Was thinking about the heating issue, I wonder if going with thicker plates might reduce the heating issues most of us have?
I know my cells heat to 150F in about 40 min. @12v/20AMPS which kinda sux.
I asked Sid about his temps a couple months ago, he mentioned "lukewarm" after several HOURS of running? Wow.. Thats pretty incredible considering his output, plate size, and size of his cell?
I have been using .028 316 SS submersed and it really heats up pretty fast, too fast. I guess the trick is to get the thing to plateau at max (20 or so)amps and max output at about 120F would be ideal.
When these cells get hot, they tend to run away with heat amps.
I borrowed this design from a fellow named Tero Ranta. He was the first I am aware of to publish this basic layout back in 2006. I have found the design to be very flexible, easy to build and a strong producer.
Not sure why your production is not better. I can get 4 LPM easily with 75v @ 12a and when I push it, have gotten 6 LPM with 90v @ 17a. Work on sealing current leakage at holes in plates with slit tubing to improve your MMW.
I am quite flattered and hope it serves you well.
my first cell looked just like that but I used 1/4" lexan and the heat killed it. with that plates gap, heat will always be Ur companion. the more volts the least amount of lye you need, and a bigger spacing will help decreasing the heat. that extra bubler is adding more weight to the set up killing efficiencies if you use it in a vehicle. my stupid windows Movie maker crashes my comp. I cant post my vids
Where did you get your stainless steal plates please respond. Thanks.
Hogasofa 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
UPLOAD a video how to made a dry cell what kind of metal to use and the steps of constructing the cell
n00b0nlin3 1 year ago
UPLOAD a video how to made a dry cell what kind of metal to use and the steps of constructing the cell
n00b0nlin3 1 year ago
heat is formed by gap but if you appart them
more it gets less efficiant so how about using
a condensser or a evaporator to make the hho gas run threw there and separate the condensation this will not only clean the gas
but if you use part of it to also cool the
generator you will get a double wami, after
tinkering around for a while my dream is to run the car on only hho three of those dry cells would be perfect a truck alt and battery
would also help an amp cap. a cooler condensser.
mitoponce007 3 years ago
Hi PeteDog444. sorry if i missed it, how far apart were your plates spaced about.
thank you
evolution2015 3 years ago
I use one 40mil gasket in this video. However I recommend the you use 80 or 120mil. I like 80 but 120 seems to be more efficient. Remember to tighten you bolts before and after each run. Good luck with your prodject.
PeteDog444 3 years ago
Hi PeteDog444, thanks for the info.
keep up the good work.
evolution2015 3 years ago
at least you have a go and put results on here for everyone to see. have you read the tero ranta that scarecrow has its worth a read. rubber gromits i am unsure if it will help as it creates less current leakage but also has restricted the flow of gas. i know in industrial vacuum systems flexi joins (house vacuums have 50% of this) it decreases vacuum, i am woundering if this is happening too as there is a lot of hosing. i also know pneumatics and hydraulics need 3x its diameter in a bend..hmmmz
dacoffee2222 3 years ago
I posted the link to the Tera Ranta PDF at the top of the comments section of video (HHO Dry Cell Testing #2). I like the idea of using rubber grommets in the holes of the plates to reduce the leakage current. I used RTV and glued nylon washers into all 64 holes in my plates and that did make it much more efficient. My MMW went from 3.8 to 4.8. I SOLD the MY dry cell and I'm working on building another one with many modifications. I will be using 1/2 inch tubing on the exhaust side.
PeteDog444 3 years ago
nice build. Just to let you know the shower liner is only .040 thick. You should maybe double it up or look for 1/16" - 3/32" neoprene online.
ardentscientist 3 years ago
Good job dude!
I am just n00b to this HHO technology and I can't get enough information fast enough! I have seen alot of cell designs and these seem the most intresting.
Perhaps, someday, I will create a motorcycle that runs soley on HHO.
Small engine, lightweight vehicle, small HHO production requirements....
hydro2wheel 3 years ago
Where did you get the gasket material from? I picked up a roll of high temp gasket for automotive use ($6). It feels almost like a fabric, but it says its good for oilpumps, waterpumps, exhaust, etc. I haven't tried it yet.
crazychickenhead 3 years ago
The gasket material I use is gray low density PVC shower pan liner. I got it from Home Depot and is sold in the bath tub section on a role. I don't recommend this material because it may be slightly conductive. Buna-N is a better choose and is available by the role on line.
PeteDog444 3 years ago
What keeps the water level below the holes? What about running fluid in 100% of the space in the cell and letting the bubbler allow the hho to raise to the surface?
crazychickenhead 3 years ago
Question:
How come the current doesnt "leak" from the outer edges of the plates themselves? Esp Since the power is connected from the OUTSIDE EDGES of the plates it should travel THROUGH? Does the gasket meterial stop the current on the plates somehow?
I just dont understand how lining the 1/4" holes with tubing (though it seems to work) increase production limiting current leakage, while the ENTIRE outside edges of the cell plates are exposed un sealed and most likely leaking too?
moreoverunity 3 years ago
Leakage current flows from the edge of the plate through the water to the other edge resulting in waisted heat and current. With this design the gasket keep the water from getting to the outer edges of the plates. The only edges are around the holes in the plates. The tubing has a strip cut out of it and is inserted through bottom and top row of holes. The tube rest up against the edges of the holes and gives them some insulation resulting in high performance and less heat.
PeteDog444 3 years ago
I understand that the gasket holds the water in place and all that. My point is, the current doesnt STOP at the edge of the gasket it should pass right through the entire plate from end/side to side and then leak there as well? Unless im missing something, electricity seeks the apposing edge.
IN other words the power is connected EXTERNALLY on the edge of the plate, the power should flow through the ENTIRE plate to the other opposing OUTER edge of the plate and leak from those edges right?
moreoverunity 3 years ago
This is great. I am going to do some more research here on the internet then start making my own.
ick5521 3 years ago
If you do build one keep the holes in the plates small, like 1/4in. Also Be prepared for a lot of time money and labor to build this type of cell.
PeteDog444 3 years ago
Thanks I look forward to learing. About how much would it cost and is it possible to increase the efficiency per watt? I hear some say to use round stainless. I am going to check it out. The flip flop circuit isn't much but I want to see how it works. I just bought a 94 chevy beretta specifically for this project. I've got another vehicle (small pickup) that I am thinking about making 100 % HHO. I've seen rubbing alcohol added to the solution.
ick5521 3 years ago
what is gained by making the holes smaller? I have my own ideas based on theories originating in my head, such as restricted flow-through and longer exposure time thus greater force out..etc...but I would like to hear your's, of course, emanating from experience :)
IMHO, I would also think some water exchange flow-through would help COOL the cell down over longer run periods? Restricting it further might cause MORE heating? Heat does seem to be the enemy for these cells, at least in my case.
moreoverunity 3 years ago
The smaller holes have less of an edge for leakage currents. There is a balance between too small and not enough flow and to big and lost efficiency. 1/4in to 1/8in for the bottom and about a 1/4in for the top holes is about right. This is just from my experience. The higher you can get your efficiency the less heat you will have and more gas. Mdbreedi has achieved 8 MMW.How, I'm not sure how. I know that the bigger and more plates you have the easer it is to get a higher efficiency.
PeteDog444 3 years ago
Mmm very interesting.. I saw Scarecrow mention "slitting" some tubing and putting it around the holes to "reduce leakage" on the edges. I wonder how much that would actually help?
So maybe putting some kind of high temp rubber grommet/insert into them might not be a bad idea?
Was thinking about the heating issue, I wonder if going with thicker plates might reduce the heating issues most of us have?
I know my cells heat to 150F in about 40 min. @12v/20AMPS which kinda sux.
moreoverunity 3 years ago
I asked Sid about his temps a couple months ago, he mentioned "lukewarm" after several HOURS of running? Wow.. Thats pretty incredible considering his output, plate size, and size of his cell?
I have been using .028 316 SS submersed and it really heats up pretty fast, too fast. I guess the trick is to get the thing to plateau at max (20 or so)amps and max output at about 120F would be ideal.
When these cells get hot, they tend to run away with heat amps.
moreoverunity 3 years ago
I borrowed this design from a fellow named Tero Ranta. He was the first I am aware of to publish this basic layout back in 2006. I have found the design to be very flexible, easy to build and a strong producer.
Not sure why your production is not better. I can get 4 LPM easily with 75v @ 12a and when I push it, have gotten 6 LPM with 90v @ 17a. Work on sealing current leakage at holes in plates with slit tubing to improve your MMW.
I am quite flattered and hope it serves you well.
SmartScarecrow 3 years ago 2
very good job like said crow should approve
peticopower 3 years ago
my first cell looked just like that but I used 1/4" lexan and the heat killed it. with that plates gap, heat will always be Ur companion. the more volts the least amount of lye you need, and a bigger spacing will help decreasing the heat. that extra bubler is adding more weight to the set up killing efficiencies if you use it in a vehicle. my stupid windows Movie maker crashes my comp. I cant post my vids
coquivagabundo 3 years ago
very nice cell. Scarcrow will be honored:)
rc9340 3 years ago
good job
pat1huey 3 years ago
Thank you for your comment. I look forward to reading any all comments.
PeteDog444 3 years ago