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From: mss829
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  • Just bought an 01 stratus r/t with Mitsubishi 3.0L, code P0135. Got both 02 sensors replaced and check engine light came on after about 5 minutes of driving. Please help. I dove the car aprox. 40 miles and S.E.S. light is still on. I read somewhere that it will go off after 20-30 full start-ups, or If I disconnect the battery. Thank you in advance for any advice, it is greatly appreciated.

  • @timboscoops this code is describing the first sensor on the exhaust manifold near the firewall,(harder to reach). I read that you replaced both sensors, but failed to mention if anything was checked as far as getting proper power and ground to that sensor. The heater is usually identified on most sensor as 2 identically colored wires. One should have 12 volts and the other so have good ground connection. You might check the heater for continuity on your newly replaced sensor just in case.

  • @mss829 ty ill take a look tomorrow if the rain stops i appreciate the quick response

  • @timboscoops my pleasure, keep me in touch with your progress! I would like to know what you find out!

  • sounds good! Are you able to get your hands on another sensor from the same place you got this one and compare the two sensor circuits? If another one shows continuity and your's does not, well, then you have good evidence to replace the sensor.

    Also, you need good power going to one wire and ground for the other,

    I hope this get you a little further,

    thanks for the comment

  • question ... like i have 2 black and one blue and one white... i test the 2 black wire with a ohm meter and it have no reading .. that mean is bad sensor... even your just bought them.. an week ago...

  • Excellent video, thank you for the information.

  • My distributor recently died (no sparks to the engine) and I replaced it with a new distributor. I drove the next day and got Check Engine Light flagging the O2 sensor. I turn the engine off and CEL was gone. Could this be misfiring due to new distributor? I've seen CEL twice for O2 sensor. I'll check the electrical continuity. Thanks for the instruction.

  • thanks for the comment

    what kind a problem did you have?

  • Thanks This Was Some Great info!!!

  • got a question ive got a sunpro afr gauge and after installing it it stayed at lean didnt sway then i put 2 new O2 sensors in and now instead of 1 main led lit it goes up to 2 ive had it in the orange range barely lit never reaches ideal mixture nor does it sway when throttle is peaked any suggestions as to why it stays to lean? i have a ford zx2

  • @krazy8tattoos there are a few questions you may want to address with this issue.

    is the engine actually running lean, or is the gauge just showing a lean mixture?

    is your check engine light on? I would expect it to be on if there is a lean running condition.

    is the gauge wired properly? You may just review it.

    I'm not implying that you do have a wiring problem, I am only bringing it to your attention while checking other areas as well.

    Hope this helps.

    Have fun!

  • @mss829 nope no check engine i service my engine every so many miles on the mark the wireing is correct so i dont know what it could be

  • @mss829 thanx for the advice and suggestions much appreciated

  • HI.

    I bought a universal type: w-w-b-g and connected the civic honda 2004 b-b-g-w:

    w-b

    w-b

    g-g

    b-w

    That was the instruction they sent me when I bought it. But when I checked it trough the diagnostic tool at autozone, the number one sensor will give a code of negative charge. How do I fix it? Do ya know?

  • Hey Mss this is a great video,

    I have Honda and has a green wire in it, so i don’t know how to test the heater or the voltage from the sensor when the temperature rise?. My code is P0135 and the complete colors are 2 back one white and the green. I will appreciate your help a lot since the sensor cost $275 dollars and I want to make sure is that the cause of the check engine light. Thanks again.

  • @ninobebemebarak Do you mean, 2 black, 1 white, 1 green?

    The 2 black should be the heater. You might even compare the reading to a new sensor at a parts store. I would still check for a power and good ground going to the black wires.

    Hope this helps.

  • @mss829 i will check it. so the white wire should be the O2 with the ground of the car? or using the green. Thanks a lot

  • @ninobebemebarak the two wires with the same color should be heater power and ground. If you could send me a picture of it, I could probably better assist you. Take care.

  • @ninobebemebarak what year and model is your vehicle?? if you can purchase a cheaper o2 sensor like ones from DENSO, then you may save some bucks. if a garage has to send for that part from their vendors, they will almost screw you on cost!! do research, buy what you need at the cheapest available price and have a small cheap garage do the repair at the cheapest possible. $275 sounds just a wee bit too high. good luck :)

  • There is no activity on o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1, either the sensor heater, power and ground supplied to the heater is faulty, which might also be setting other codes.

    The first sensor off of the exhaust manifold starting on the side of cylinder 1 would be my starting point. One of the wires going to the sensor should have 12 volts, and the other should have proper ground. You can check the ground by confirming continuity between a good chassis ground and the sensor harness on the vehicle.

  • @mss829 I changed today the o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1,and the car still having the same problems(shaking on start up and an unstable rpm like if the engine is going to die)and still having the same codes on the sensor i changed(P0151,P0152,P0154)...I feel theres something electrical wrong in car..or may it be the pcm??

  • Thank u 4 ur help..well i checked the car again on a scanner im havin more codes in the same time(p0134 p0151 p0152 p0154 p0174 p0506 p0507!!!!)..Do u think should i begin by changing the HO2 sensors so it might help?i dont want 2 pay more money 4 nothing..Thank u again

  • My 2004 pontiac gto(LS1) is giving me the p0152 and the p0154. Could you tell me what you think the problem may be?thx

  • @SamD242 pay close attention to p0154 since there is no activity and find out why there is no activity. Check you power circuit and ground circuit.

    I hope this helps. I can send you a link for checking the sensor off of the vehicle. Let me know if you have any other questions.

    Thanks

  • could a P0171 code be a oxygen censor?

  • @HeavensWest1 Possibility, and if you were to check the sensor it would need to be an off the vehicle test. The problem with the 171 is it does not specify what 02 sensor is acting weird.

    My suggestion would be to check for vacuum leaks on hoses or anything that would cause a lean condition on your bank 1 or the side of cylinder 1.

    Thanks for the response.

    Mike

  • @mss829 Thanks for the input! I've ordered a new B1S1. But will test S2 heater circuit, power source & ground. Went ahead on S1 due to: 1) it is not oscillating below 200mV nor above 700mV.. consistently... 2) S1 being bad/old can create a code for S2.. I'll replace S1 and re-run Autotap, generate a new graph with the new data.. see what it looks like then - meanwhile I'll test S2 as you've suggested. But.. shouldn't S2 stay steady at ~ 450/500mV? Thanks again!

  • Thanks for posting. Very informative. Do you have any suggestions for DTC PO131 & PO141? I posted a screencast video where you can see both O2 sensors, engine temp & speed graphed realtime.

  • In my opinion, your Bank 1 sensor 2 heater circuit code is more suspicious. (p0141)

    I would check:

    1. heater circuit on the sensor, or

    2. power source wire from vehicle for voltage, or

    3. ground wire circuit for low resistance and clean, secure connection.

    If all are in tact, then there could be a lean fuel trim, that is not necessarily the 02 sensor's fault. There is not much of a sure answer that I feel comfortable with stating, unfortunately.

    Thanks for watching and commenting!

  • @mss829

    My 2001 camaro z28 is giving me the p0131 along with the p0420. Could you tell me what you think the problem may be since both codes deal only with one bank? does this mean it can't be a fuel problem or vaccume leak?

  • mss you're awesome man thanks for answering the Qs.

    I have a P0136 code too. When the RPM is at around 2-3RPM the Check Engine light flashes and the engine becomes powerful like a weedeater.. LOL

    So I guess this is the problem? Oh no, $150...

  • If the heater is in tact, also considerin that the source for the heater is a 12v signal from car and there is a ground circuit for the sensor also, so please keep this in mind. I understand that in some cases, diagnostics can mean taking it to a qualified technician.

    I realize that this video is a very limited approach to 02 sensor analysis and I intend to give it another attempt.

    Thanks for the comment, and it is my pleasure to help with what I can and your car issue.

  • Thanks to all of my viewers. I am going to do another video on oxygen sensors shortly covering more information that I find important with oxygen sensor codes. If you have not visited my youtube channel or website, please do so and I will be glad to answer questions regarding engine diagnostics!

  • Hey.... i have P0141

    heater condition ( Heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2 )

    does that mean the sensor is dead?

  • Possibly, it is still essential check the heater circuit with a meter, 2 black wires or 2 white wires depending on if the sensor is factory or aftermarket! B1 S2 should be after the catalytic converter. You may need to consult a repair manual if the heater is difficult to identify. I intend to make a second video covering ideas that I realize were not mentioned the first time. Thanks for the comment!

    Mike

  • what about P0132 high voltage?

  • Then one of the areas I would check is the fuel delivery at the engine itself because the oxygen sensor is reading a rich fuel condition. This could also be a lack of air on the intake side also, a number of possibilites. I tried to give warning about other sensor codes in the description, but thanks for the comment. I am surprised you did not mention P0420, P0421, or P0431 with this code.

  • You could also check the sensor itself just in case.  Compare the heater circuit resistance of yours to the resistance of a new sensor. If you are going to check the activity of sensor, make sure it is off of the vehicle and find something to heat the tip(Butane torch) sensor readings. From my experience, the heater circuit malfunction usually is present when the heater circuit on the sensor has completely failed, or there is no continuity.

  • Thank you for making this video. For my problem this is the best O2 video I have seen yet. I did not know of the continuity of the 2 white heater wires. But shouldn't there be continuity between pin A and the body of the sensor?

  • Absolutely, the first comment I got for my intro (different video) was hating on me and ericthecarguy, haters are out there. I don't have a good answer about pin A and the body, how did you think out that concept? Heater circuit is common on 02 sensors. Keep in mind factory 02 sensor wires will be 2 black wires, however I forgot to mention it. I have a video on starters and more to come soon. Thanks for the compliment and please post ideas for other repairs

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