I know this doesn't have anything to do with the air conditioner but what kind of radio is that when you pan over to the computer set up for the "Critter Cam" at 0:54?
I know this dosen;t have anything to do with the air conditioner but what kind of radio is that when you pan over to the computer set up for the "Critter Cam" at 0:54?
Perhaps you should read my website utc-suicide. I have now exhausted all of my legal avenues. The real, true, and cruel message is that a UTC employee cannot fight them in a court of law. When UTC whats to destroy your family its over. And by the way, as fully documented in their FAA type certificates, I was one of the most productive employees at P&WA. Its doesn't matter folks, they will screw your family over in a second no matter how hard and in particular how long you work for UTC.
Perhaps you should check out my You Tube videos to learn about Otis Elevator/Aircraft/United Technologies Corporations heinous illegal activities. UTC is absolutely ruthless as they destroy many families here in CT
@silvertiger333 An air conditioner is just a device. It hasn't got any feelings or thoughts of its own, and I'm not endorsing any company's products in this video.
If you're really that sure of your ground, perhaps you should consider a legal action against them. But I'm not a lawyer, don't play one on TV and don't know.
I also had my sisters old GE carry cool where the fan rumbled/hummed. It got to the point where it would slow, but not screech, then seize with a louder hum. Lubing temporarily helped, but it would still eventully seize up to a loud hum. Pushing it while it hummed felt like there was a conflicting magnetic resistance. When off, it would move freely. :-( I tossed the unit :-(
Hmmm. So then it sounds like it may support my theory about the possibity of the lube working in when the unit was idle for a long time. I have this feeling the fan still won't fail if you reconnect the compressor to the thermostat. LOL (Unless the fan failed when trying again just before the rewiring job.) But leaving well enough alone at this point is understandable.
Did you find that the problem disappeared upon disconnecting the compressor from the thermostat? Or did the fan run properly once you wired the compressor to the main power switch?
The way it's wired is such that all power comes through the fan switch. There is a "constant on" tap for the compressor that goes first to the thermostat. On a whim, I pulled the connector off of that tap and let it run with the fan only. It never failed, so I connected the compressor lead directly to the tap, and it still worked.
Then I built my external programmable thermostat control system, which was the perfect solution. It saves a lot of money.
My compact AC did the same. It was kinda tight getting to the motor. I used a straw and tilted it so oil will seep in the motor. After many difficult months of lubing, it finally ran smooth. The noise stopped. I guess the oil finally got in & hit the right spot(s). So maybe any lubing you did worked it's way in by the time you rewired it. I can't see how power to a compressor can affect the fan. I'm sure you heard this. So I'm showing you my experience with delayed fan lubing success.
Here's the thing...it wasn't a lubrication problem at all. The motor would gradually lose power and stop running. But I could give it a flick and the shaft turned freely even after it had just stopped. Sometimes it would even restart and approach normal operating speed after I'd helped it.
Several years passed (because I had no need for the unit at the time I picked it up) between oiling the fan and finding the problem.
It gave every indication of a winding opening up under heat...strange.
excellent,,,,,,i am glad you got that working, this was a very informative video, thanks for showing us and explaining what all you did to get that thing running, i enjoyed your video,
Nice find... I hate new air conditioners... No design effort whatsoever, they're built cheap, and 99% of them don't have a nice design of a shit load of features. Look at some old Emerson Quiet Kool and 1960's Fedders for an idea
omg some 1 help me my ac unit stoped blowing cool air it is so fucking hot i put my hand in frunt of it and its blowing out nothing and its on high cool ha ha ha high cool my ass HELP !!!!!!!!!!
Anyone's help on this would be amazing. I have an LG LEA120ACL unit that keeps tripping the breakers. I have cleaned the filter, vacuumed the intake at the front and am having no luck. It keeps shutting off after a few mins of use. Its a few years old but I mean it was working great.
I have a question you might know the answer to uxwbill...do central air units run off of R134a? The central A/C unit for my apartment has always been a little on the weak side. I thought about getting a can of refrigerant from O'Reilly and giving it a little boost, but I didn't know if it would work. I just don't want to call the apartment maintenance because those guys are a joke.
New systems could possibly be charged with 134a, but the most recent system I saw installed (in 2002/2003) used R-22.
A few different systems might be in use--you might find a central chiller is used and chilled water is pumped to your cooling coil. This saves costs as compared to running many little air conditioners, and each person can have their own air handler and thermostat.
If you want to try and understand the risks, I'd say looking at the condenser unit for the specs is your best bet.
You might be right about the central chiller with the cooling coil. The heat is central, with a boiler (And free, amazingly) and maintenance disables the A/C units during the winter. They also leave notes on our doors warning us not to try running the A/C in the winter, for it could cause the coils to leak. So I bet you are right.
You can actually buy a central air conditioning unit that is designed for R134A. It will work as well as an R22 unit, and doesn't require as much pressure. The downside is, R134A doesn't cool as well, and the condenser will be noticeably bulkier because of it.
@uxwbill R134a is used in vehicle air conditioning systems. R22 is used in almost every residential and comercial comfort cooling application since at least the early 80's. The new refrigerant used now is 410-A. And for the other cat that posted a year ago...... NO! Do not buy a can of 134 A and put it in your air conditioner to "give it a boost" will not work youll screw it up worse than it is and be out 20 bones for the can of juice. Buy a new one... theyre like $150 at wal mart.
I've seen some residential equipment that was in fact charged with/intended for 134A refrigerant, so I know it's out there.
One should certainly never mix refrigerants in a system, that just leads to a mess at best and serious problems at the worst. As it is, a sealed refrigeration system such as this should never lose its charge barring a serious malfunction or failure. If it does, it's going to need professional attention.
will work good untill you have a day whare the out side temp drops below 65 out and its cool in the room and the inside condencser ices up and kills the compressor:)
why not just take a themostat from a diff ac and wire it up :)
I don't have a lot of A/C units laying around for parts, as I don't want the trouble of getting rid of them.
I won't be using this A/C unit except when it is bitterly hot out. It will be close to the triple digits when it is used. That's why I don't think it will be a problem.
That was one weird issue. I think what I might do to mine is rig up a relay control with a thermostat so the fan and compressor will shut off at the same time. I have a portable unit that blows room air across the condenser. The drawback is it exhausts the cool room air when the fan Is running continuously.
I know this doesn't have anything to do with the air conditioner but what kind of radio is that when you pan over to the computer set up for the "Critter Cam" at 0:54?
TundraWalk3r 10 months ago
I know this dosen;t have anything to do with the air conditioner but what kind of radio is that when you pan over to the computer set up for the "Critter Cam" at 0:54?
TundraWalk3r 10 months ago
@TundraWalk3r Zenith 7C05 - it's a tube-type table radio that was found set out for the trash one day. It worked as found.
uxwbill 10 months ago
Perhaps you should read my website utc-suicide. I have now exhausted all of my legal avenues. The real, true, and cruel message is that a UTC employee cannot fight them in a court of law. When UTC whats to destroy your family its over. And by the way, as fully documented in their FAA type certificates, I was one of the most productive employees at P&WA. Its doesn't matter folks, they will screw your family over in a second no matter how hard and in particular how long you work for UTC.
silvertiger333 10 months ago
Comment removed
silvertiger333 10 months ago
Perhaps you should check out my You Tube videos to learn about Otis Elevator/Aircraft/United Technologies Corporations heinous illegal activities. UTC is absolutely ruthless as they destroy many families here in CT
silvertiger333 11 months ago
@silvertiger333 An air conditioner is just a device. It hasn't got any feelings or thoughts of its own, and I'm not endorsing any company's products in this video.
If you're really that sure of your ground, perhaps you should consider a legal action against them. But I'm not a lawyer, don't play one on TV and don't know.
uxwbill 11 months ago
I also had my sisters old GE carry cool where the fan rumbled/hummed. It got to the point where it would slow, but not screech, then seize with a louder hum. Lubing temporarily helped, but it would still eventully seize up to a loud hum. Pushing it while it hummed felt like there was a conflicting magnetic resistance. When off, it would move freely. :-( I tossed the unit :-(
fxcamera1 1 year ago
Hmmm. So then it sounds like it may support my theory about the possibity of the lube working in when the unit was idle for a long time. I have this feeling the fan still won't fail if you reconnect the compressor to the thermostat. LOL (Unless the fan failed when trying again just before the rewiring job.) But leaving well enough alone at this point is understandable.
fxcamera1 1 year ago
Did you find that the problem disappeared upon disconnecting the compressor from the thermostat? Or did the fan run properly once you wired the compressor to the main power switch?
fxcamera1 1 year ago
The way it's wired is such that all power comes through the fan switch. There is a "constant on" tap for the compressor that goes first to the thermostat. On a whim, I pulled the connector off of that tap and let it run with the fan only. It never failed, so I connected the compressor lead directly to the tap, and it still worked.
Then I built my external programmable thermostat control system, which was the perfect solution. It saves a lot of money.
uxwbill 1 year ago
My compact AC did the same. It was kinda tight getting to the motor. I used a straw and tilted it so oil will seep in the motor. After many difficult months of lubing, it finally ran smooth. The noise stopped. I guess the oil finally got in & hit the right spot(s). So maybe any lubing you did worked it's way in by the time you rewired it. I can't see how power to a compressor can affect the fan. I'm sure you heard this. So I'm showing you my experience with delayed fan lubing success.
fxcamera1 1 year ago
Here's the thing...it wasn't a lubrication problem at all. The motor would gradually lose power and stop running. But I could give it a flick and the shaft turned freely even after it had just stopped. Sometimes it would even restart and approach normal operating speed after I'd helped it.
Several years passed (because I had no need for the unit at the time I picked it up) between oiling the fan and finding the problem.
It gave every indication of a winding opening up under heat...strange.
uxwbill 1 year ago
Question; Did you attempt to lube the fan motor before you rewired the compressor?
fxcamera1 1 year ago
Yes. The original video talks about some of the things I tried.
uxwbill 1 year ago
excellent,,,,,,i am glad you got that working, this was a very informative video, thanks for showing us and explaining what all you did to get that thing running, i enjoyed your video,
letseeitplease 1 year ago 2
Nice find... I hate new air conditioners... No design effort whatsoever, they're built cheap, and 99% of them don't have a nice design of a shit load of features. Look at some old Emerson Quiet Kool and 1960's Fedders for an idea
eyg2181 2 years ago
omg some 1 help me my ac unit stoped blowing cool air it is so fucking hot i put my hand in frunt of it and its blowing out nothing and its on high cool ha ha ha high cool my ass HELP !!!!!!!!!!
xXBRETT972558Xx972 2 years ago
Anyone's help on this would be amazing. I have an LG LEA120ACL unit that keeps tripping the breakers. I have cleaned the filter, vacuumed the intake at the front and am having no luck. It keeps shutting off after a few mins of use. Its a few years old but I mean it was working great.
structuremonkey 2 years ago
probably a bad fan motor, or compressor motor. Best to get it checked by an electrician
prolodyne 2 years ago
@structuremonkey Maybe it's the condenser coil that is dirty.
acnfanmanin 1 year ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
Dood Get All New Air Conditioners
OoBitEeAaBitEe 2 years ago
I don't think there is any need to do that.
uxwbill 2 years ago
Comment removed
OoBitEeAaBitEe 2 years ago
I have a question you might know the answer to uxwbill...do central air units run off of R134a? The central A/C unit for my apartment has always been a little on the weak side. I thought about getting a can of refrigerant from O'Reilly and giving it a little boost, but I didn't know if it would work. I just don't want to call the apartment maintenance because those guys are a joke.
mgospeed31 2 years ago
New systems could possibly be charged with 134a, but the most recent system I saw installed (in 2002/2003) used R-22.
A few different systems might be in use--you might find a central chiller is used and chilled water is pumped to your cooling coil. This saves costs as compared to running many little air conditioners, and each person can have their own air handler and thermostat.
If you want to try and understand the risks, I'd say looking at the condenser unit for the specs is your best bet.
uxwbill 2 years ago
You might be right about the central chiller with the cooling coil. The heat is central, with a boiler (And free, amazingly) and maintenance disables the A/C units during the winter. They also leave notes on our doors warning us not to try running the A/C in the winter, for it could cause the coils to leak. So I bet you are right.
mgospeed31 2 years ago
@uxwbill
You can actually buy a central air conditioning unit that is designed for R134A. It will work as well as an R22 unit, and doesn't require as much pressure. The downside is, R134A doesn't cool as well, and the condenser will be noticeably bulkier because of it.
Jerkwad152 1 year ago
That's definitely true. I'm not sure how long they have been available, but I am sure that it has been more than a few years now.
uxwbill 1 year ago
@uxwbill R134a is used in vehicle air conditioning systems. R22 is used in almost every residential and comercial comfort cooling application since at least the early 80's. The new refrigerant used now is 410-A. And for the other cat that posted a year ago...... NO! Do not buy a can of 134 A and put it in your air conditioner to "give it a boost" will not work youll screw it up worse than it is and be out 20 bones for the can of juice. Buy a new one... theyre like $150 at wal mart.
jcfish0314 1 year ago
I've seen some residential equipment that was in fact charged with/intended for 134A refrigerant, so I know it's out there.
One should certainly never mix refrigerants in a system, that just leads to a mess at best and serious problems at the worst. As it is, a sealed refrigeration system such as this should never lose its charge barring a serious malfunction or failure. If it does, it's going to need professional attention.
uxwbill 1 year ago
they run on R-22 but dec. 31, 2009 is the last day r-22 units will be produced. then it will switch to r-410a....gov't mandated.
sideburns2009 2 years ago
will work good untill you have a day whare the out side temp drops below 65 out and its cool in the room and the inside condencser ices up and kills the compressor:)
why not just take a themostat from a diff ac and wire it up :)
itscool1968 2 years ago
I don't have a lot of A/C units laying around for parts, as I don't want the trouble of getting rid of them.
I won't be using this A/C unit except when it is bitterly hot out. It will be close to the triple digits when it is used. That's why I don't think it will be a problem.
uxwbill 2 years ago
That was one weird issue. I think what I might do to mine is rig up a relay control with a thermostat so the fan and compressor will shut off at the same time. I have a portable unit that blows room air across the condenser. The drawback is it exhausts the cool room air when the fan Is running continuously.
jefferyb304 2 years ago
nice man good work! 5/5
37474748 2 years ago
Comment removed
neospeardude 2 years ago
Cool.
gusherb94 2 years ago