Added: 1 year ago
From: Makermook
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  • I saw ur video once before and just spent hrs trying to find help on getting mine going. I set up the gas 1st then air. I c I was wrong. Something kept telling me to check your post. Thankyou. I think i also need to switch my tip. I wasnt mixing the air and gas before ignition.

  • What size tip and regulator are u using??

  • your Tank of gas will stop putting out with out a regulater it will ice up at the neck

  • You can try two coats of a refractory cement over your fire wool. That should help protect the wool, improve the isolation (allowing a higher heat and great efficiency), and prevent small pieces of the wool from flying around and becoming an inhalation hazard.

  • I couldn't help but notice that anvil stand, made from a sawhorse. How is that working out for you? I have been using a trash can filled with compacted sand. While it has proven to be a stable platform, it is very difficult to move around.

    Also, I am happy to see that the hair dryer will work, since that is what I am using now on my charcoal forge. I am in the process of converting to propane, however, and it is nice to know I can use the same setup.

  • absolutly great man thank you

  • are you in the military?

    

  • @scottaspect20 I was. 

  • @Makermook looks like virginia

  • @Makermook Nice forge and thankyou for your service :)

  • who told u to do this things like this???? it cant work!!!!! i have already buildet a lot of gasforges, but non of my forges does look like so much like sh*t like this. if u want, i can help u to build a real working forge!!!!! send me a privat message, and can give u a lil video of a real working forge! which u can build at home with low budget.

  • @naabtalschmied Did you watch the entire video? It actually does work, though it isn't very pretty. I have also seen very similar homemade forced air/gas forges in operation and they work quite well and even generate enough heat for welding.

  • wow, thats cool!

  • how fuel efficient is this setup tank wise

  • @steveo928 A rough guess is that I get 15-20 hours of run time at regular forging temps. Less if I really crank it up to welding temps.

  • @Makermook ok thanks man, look at my videos on my forge, I used that same design that you did

  • Better luck next time!

  • Hi I really enjoyed your video ?Can I ask where I could find the propane nozzle/orifice and handle set up?What size is the orifice etc? The HOLY SHIT part was hilarious LOL

  • @baanjoguy That is a weed burning torch I bought at Harbor Freight for about $20. They also have it in their online store.

  • DUDE! THAT METAL GIVES OF A POISENIS GAS WHEN BURNED, DO NOT USE THAT IT CAN KILL YOU, IM TELLING U THE TRUTH GO LOOK IT UP, ITS GALVINIZED STEEL

  • @maxey83112 No, that's not galvanized. You are correct that galvanized metal is very dangerous when heated, but I used black iron pipe, definitely not galvanized. Thanks for your concern, though.

  • im talking about you air inlet.

  • @maxey83112 Me too. I know it looks a little silvery on video, but it really is not galvanized.

  • o ok sry i was just wondering, but how much did they charge u for having them weld that? i want to make one out of a air compressor tank

  • @maxey83112 I think it would be pretty cheap to have them weld some feet on it and an air inlet tube -- maybe around $20.

  • how much did they charge u to make the entire thing welding and all?

  • @maxey83112 Way too much -- $140US

  • Great job!! 5stars but if you want to melt your forge and melt rock use a electric leaf blower!!!!

  • @pcblah Haha, I tried that on my Charcoal forge, blew the top off on the test run (thank god it was hot). Let that be a lesson, limit your beer intake when building a forge.

  • @BoyMixer lol try using beer as the fuel... to limit ur intake and put the smell in the air :D

  • I was told to look up this kind of a forage due to me wanting to be able to melt copper to form ingots. Do you know if this kind of a forge would be able to melt copper? and if not do you know of a forge that I could make that would be able to melt copper?

  • @EPhantom125 Copper melts at just below 2000F, and this forge, as I made it, can get well hotter than that...up to 2300F

  • What was the metal drum that you used for your forge?

  • @MuscaVolitans I had it made out of heavy steel pipe, I think it was schedule 40. If I had it to do over again, I would have used an old propane can or a freon can. With the insulating blanket and the satanite coating I've installed, the forge I have is ridiculously over-built, and a thinner metal container would do just fine.

  • I've had some problems with excessive heat, also. I would recommend a lower setting on the air blower, obviously. But I would also angle your furnace to where your air flow is directing up, as opposed to downwards so it doesn't melt your air supply and the passage carrying the air flow.

  • @MuscaVolitans I did make some alterations in later videos. I put a rheostat on the power supply for the blower, which has made an enormous amount of difference in how I can regulate the heat in the forge.

  • Great! Perfect forge, that´s a Jet engine ; ) good luck with this monster of heat : ) All the best, Sepp

  • @Waldhandwerk Thanks! I've even done some improvements. I hope to post a video this weekend.

  • i cant wait to see some of the knifes you make with this bad boy

  • I don't know for sure how long a 20 lb tank of propane lasts. I had a 1/3 full can when I got the forge working, and I guess I've gotten about 8 hours out of that so far. But I'm still fine-tuning the air/gas mixture, so it may end up getting better efficiency. I know for sure that it's more efficient than the weed-burner setup I was using.

  • Real impressive man. So much of doing this work is trying it and the fixing it. half assed is a way of life!

  • @thecustomart11 I doubt it, but I've never worked with a coal forge, so I don't know for sure. From everything I've seen, coal can get hotter easier (hot enough to melt the steel even), but it's messier. I don't have a problem with the mess, but my wife might :)

  • Ncie fix......Excellent work Mook|

  • dude! that was awesome!!

    that anvil looks really cool!

    great job Mook!

  • @captjeff78 Now that I'm more or less set up and ready to go, I need to do some actual smithing. I think I'll start with some small-diameter mild steel and try to make points, curls, etc. Thanks for your comment!

  • @captjeff78

    umm...Jeff?

    Dont you mean it looks really HOT?...lol

    :-P

  • "for all I know it might explode...... but here goes" lol

  • dang lol, that's pretty intense

  • where did u get the metal chamber at mark?

  • It would be great if you could cut the welds and spin it around so your inlet is pointing straight down. There is always a hot spot with forced air, but you can use that to your advantage. Forced air rules over venturi hands down...

  • @ArtistBlade1972 I'm definitely going to do both: spin it so the inlet points straight down and put some Satanite on top of the kaowool. For now, I'm going to spend the weekend making some knives and curlicues and decorative stuff. I need to just practice the basics for awhile. Thanks again for your help.

  • @Makermook That's cool, you should be very happy with it then. looks like a killer little forge. 1 tip for ya, basically all hair dryers have low voltage DC motors that run the fan. They use the heating element as a resistor and a diode to make a half wave rectifier to drive it. If you have a small variable dc power supply you can get some relatively precision air control out of it. Just gut it and hook the power supply straight to the motor leads...

  • 6:40...we have ignition

    6:44...we have main booster start

    6:46...we have main engine start

    6:50...we have launch of the first ever MakerMook Forced-air propane forge.

    WOOO HOOOOO.....

    Go you good thing!!!

    I kinda feel honoured that you included us in this first ever 'Fire-up' of

    your new forge. Thanks Mook.

    Can you get a 'round' fire brick like tube to insert inside?

    Rob.

  • @RDPproject I don't know about a round insert. I'd still have to cut a hole for the flame inlet and I'd have to insulate the back wall. I think I'm going to buy some kiln cement ("Satanite" I think it's called) and line the inside with about a 1/4" coating. That stuff is apparently rated to 3000 F, as opposed to the 2600 F kaowool. If I melt through the Satanite, I think I'll just bag the blacksmithing thing and rent my kiln out as an auxiliary sun.

  • its a little hard to tell from the video but it looks like you need a pressure regulator on the propane. those tanks have around 60 psi in them but with the forced air you can use as little as 7 psi. that might also solve the problem of burning the insulation.

  • holly shit indeed man damn that burn so bright it blined me

  • I worked around industrial kilns for some time and I can tell you that the blanket refractory material won't last any time at all. There are soft materials that can be packed in where the blanket is that will last a lot longer than the blanket. We use to try all kinds of products, but nothing would last like plain old fire brick. only problem is sometimes it is very difficult to get installed. I think the plastic type would be best for you if you can find some.Good luck.

  • Maybe I am not getting this, but why not just put the weed burner down the 3 inch pipe and run it as is?

  • @mem7048 It doesn't draw as much air in as forcing it with the hair dryer does. With the extra air, it burns a lot hotter.

  • @mem7048 And I tried that before I did anything else. I had hoped it would be sufficient, but it wasn't.

  • @mem7048

    It turned out really nice tho.

    Heck! If I had a job...even I could

    have this set-up made.

    *next thing to go on my list*

  • I watched a video where someone lined the forge with Satanite (I believe) and there was a curing process involved. Have you looked into that?

  • @RichL123 I've been thinking about that. I also wonder if I ought to get rid of the fire brick. I also need to fiddle around with the output nozzle and see if seating it further in or out of the 3" tube changes the burn pattern on the inside...my aim would be to eliminate the hot spot that hits the wall and melts that fabric.

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