94-97 Honda Accord Ignition Switch Replacement Part 1

[tomintroy]

OMG! You look to be my sons age but you make a great production and are so competent! Very nice work!!!

[cangoods100]

A dmm or just in the on position ..and what is a more likley cause timing belt or electronical on these cars sorry if im a newb at this

[Bushougoma]

@cangoods100 You need the circuit loaded during the voltage drop test so yes while cranking.

I'll private message you from here on in since my posts are getting lengthy.

[cangoods100]

If i had a broken timing belt would it have these same symptoms i tried to open the valve cover but couldnt didnt have the right tools so i had a freind crank the motor and i peeked in the oil cap i saw something move but just breifly then it stopped am i damaging anything by doing this and my car was fine the day before i did notice oil on the distributer cap i took it off saw a little corrosin cleaned it and the same happend does the car needd to be cranked while im checking the starter wit

[cangoods100]

I have a 94 honda accord lx i replaced the starter new battery and the coil it slow cranking it sounds like theres restriction my alternator is good what could this be i crank it it makes the cranking noise but dosent fire up i had new spark plugs replaced about 4 months ago could it be a broken timing belt or electrical i drove home from a long drive parked my car smelled a smell from my hot engine the next day i tried to start it and just cranking!!!!please help!!!

[Bushougoma]

@cangoods100 For the slow crank condition you'll need to perform a voltage drop test to verify power and ground at the starter. Set your DMM to volts with one probe on the + battery terminal and the other on the + terminal at the starter. Crank the engine you shouldn't read anything more than 0.7 volts. Do the same for the ground one on the ground terminal the other on the body of the starter no more than 0.25 volts.

If do get a higher reading you have a bad power or ground wire.

[Bushougoma]

@Bushougoma If your powers and grounds are good. Have you verified you have spark when cranking? Use a spark tester to verify. If there is no spark you have to test your ignitor.

Does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when the key is in the on position? If not check your main relay. The solder joints inside like to crack.

Are the injectors firing? Take a screwdriver place it on the injector body and place your ear on the handle of the screwdriver listen for pintle movement.

[Bushougoma]

@Bushougoma Now onto the timing belt. If you suspect the belt snapped pull the valve cover off and turn the crank with a socket on the crank bolt. If the camshaft turns the belt is fine but I'd also check if it jumped a tooth or two while I was in there.

Without removing the cover you'll need to buy a compression tester.

If the belt snapped these are interference engines and the pistons hit the valves when the belt snaps.

Sorry about the wall of text I hope it helps.

[rllucase]

Thanks so much! I started the job without watching your video. I took the plastic off of the steering column, and saw that there were no slots for a screwdriver on the bolts. I searched YouTube and your video walked me through the process. The awe and hammer did the trick with ease. You truly are a life saver. Thanks again and keep up the good work.

[Bushougoma]

@rllucase Glad I could help.

[Tylerwalters76dayton]

I have a 97 accord that turns over great but won't start. I'm replacing the ignition switch lock & cylinder in the morning. Already replaced just the switch & still no start. I'm in desperate need of help please

[Bushougoma]

@Tylerwalters76dayton Do you hear the fuel pump running for 2 seconds when the key is turned to the run position? Also is the check engine light turning on and turning off after two seconds?

If not check the main relay it's in a gray plastic case under the drivers dash clipped to a bracket. The solder joints inside like to crack this relay supplies the ECM, fuel pump, and injection system.

If the relay checks out let me know I can supply additional troubleshooting info.

[jrmym2]

Same test worked for my 90 Accord.

[mikenpuff]

Perfect video on getting this done. Everything clear and accurate. If you have time order the part number given in part 2 of this video. It's less than ordering the parts individually.

[Bushougoma]

@mikenpuff The part number for the 97 Honda in the video is 35130-SY8-305. Other vehicles in the recall have different part numbers so consult the TSB for part number details.

One of the things you learn early on when repairing cars if you need multiple parts check if there's a kit. As you've discovered most of the time buying the items together saves you money.

[mikenpuff]

@Bushougoma This was done on my daughters 96 Accord EX. I'll post later the part numbers for the switch as well as the sheer bolts. The dealer didn't have a kit for everything. Also when calling the dealer for the ignition switch they want to sell you the whole assembly which costs over $220.00. I got out of there for about $70. and with your great video instructions did the job in less than 30 minutes!!! Thanks!!!

[Bushougoma]

@mikenpuff Glad I could help you out.

Thanks For The Comment.

[apowerz420]

thanks for the great tutorial. your way of removing sheer bolts is genius! 

[Bushougoma]

@apowerz420 Glad to help. I can't take credit for it I learned it from a guy awhile back.

[spelunkerd]

These two videos are technically excellent. I've rarely seen shear bolts, but will easily recognize them now after watching this. Obviously they are there as a theft safeguard. Another way to deal with these would be to weld a nut onto the top. A one minute task if you have a welder, and, if done properly, you won't melt adjacent plastic.

[Bushougoma]

@spelunkerd Never thought of that one.

Thanks For The Comment.

[ImportOwner]

Regarding the shear bolts, for those who would like to opt out of the hammer/chisel method, read the following:

If you take a dremel and notch the head of the bolt, you can take a flat head screwdriver and unscrew the bolts much more easily.

Nice work on the tutorial though, no doubt it's helped a lot of people considering how often these ignition switches crap out.

[Bushougoma]

@ImportOwner I did consider that method at first but I was out of cutting wheels for my Dremel plus I wanted a more generic method since everyone doesn't have a rotary tool. Glad to hear that method worked.

My Dremel has saved me more times then I'd care to admit. I've never regretted owning one.

Thanks For The Comment.

[boell4grumpa]

Sorry to be a nuisance. I think you misunderstood what I was asking.

I want to wire a simple switch to disable the ignition. Can I break the Black/white

starter wire with a simple SPST switch.( I would hide the switch somewhere in the passenger compartment and run a switch leg wire to the switch)

The switch would have to be closed in order for the starter(position 3) to crank the engine.

I'm just not sure how many amps the black /white wire circuit carries in order for me to size the switch.

[Bushougoma]

@boell4grumpa Ah ok. Yes you can disable the starter with that wire. It goes to the starter solenoid and doesn't bear the 300+ amps needed to crank the engine.

To measure the current cut the start wire and strip it on both ends. Set your DMM to current mode and place one probe on each end of the wire. Crank the engine and observe the reading that is the rating for your switch.

It shouldn't be that much so you won't need a monster switch. Make sure any leg wires are the same wire gauge.

[boell4grumpa]

I replaced the ignition switch on my son's 97 accord with your help.

Teach me which ignition switch wire(s) to I can break with a hidden dis-abler switch

that runs from the ignition switch harness to the fuse panel.

I am tired of removing the battery from the car every night.

Thanks again for your help..

[k3898]

Good work!

Publish more, will you?

Thanks alot!!

[Bushougoma]

@k3898 I have a few more in the works. Thanks for the comment.