damn, my friend tried that the other day but got to the ledge they were belaying from and didn't want to continue, but that looked like it would have been really fun to top rope. it looks like great hand jams all the effing way up, which sounds really fun.
I found (after leading it a few times) that there are some great little footholds on the face as you go through the upper layback section that make the crisp edge of the crack feel even crisper... Lower facey crux feels more difficult to me, but then again not as difficult as the 5.9 first section, go figure!
Gabe did enter the route via the most upward entrance. Personally I've always thought the crux was the upper layback through the bulge. Either way, it's an awesome line and it was fun to film.
Not that it really matters, but it looks like you skipped the .11a intro bit... In which case the lieback would be the crux, but it's not .11a it's 5.10. Cruised that section though, nice work.
damn, my friend tried that the other day but got to the ledge they were belaying from and didn't want to continue, but that looked like it would have been really fun to top rope. it looks like great hand jams all the effing way up, which sounds really fun.
drummerforpeace 1 year ago
@drummerforpeace Keep working on it. You'll get it. You can put pro in every inch of that climb so don't freak about falling.
tonkashouse 1 year ago
excellent dude. good job
shackman2387 1 year ago
@shackman2387
tonkashouse 1 year ago
dude. nice line. index. i want me some crack
line1bass 2 years ago
I need it too. It's been nice enough this January to climb.... but my knee is trashed. Get crackin'
tonkashouse 2 years ago
that sucks. i trashed my left ring finger in the gym. Lame...
line1bass 1 year ago
How did you trash it in the gym? The weather has been awesome for Index Crackaholics!
tonkashouse 1 year ago
Ever hear of a Jesus Nut?
jasonnchinchen 2 years ago
Heard of it.... I've SEEN one!
tonkashouse 2 years ago
I found (after leading it a few times) that there are some great little footholds on the face as you go through the upper layback section that make the crisp edge of the crack feel even crisper... Lower facey crux feels more difficult to me, but then again not as difficult as the 5.9 first section, go figure!
PolyVshot 2 years ago
Kinda' the way it goes with some climbs. Different people find different cruxes.
tonkashouse 2 years ago
Gabe did enter the route via the most upward entrance. Personally I've always thought the crux was the upper layback through the bulge. Either way, it's an awesome line and it was fun to film.
tonkashouse 2 years ago
Not that it really matters, but it looks like you skipped the .11a intro bit... In which case the lieback would be the crux, but it's not .11a it's 5.10. Cruised that section though, nice work.
RafMaxwell 2 years ago
Glad you liked it. It's an awesome line. The crux is the lieback section. It's a little overhanging with footholds that angle the wrong way. Sweet.
tonkashouse 2 years ago
What a sweet looking line! Looks like the crux is in the first 30 ft. or so?
rangertommy 2 years ago
Nice video guys. Great line, I'm loosing it here, rock climbing vicariously through others while sitting behind a desk.
HarryJVaughn3 3 years ago
Hopefully you can get out there and pull...
Thanks for the comment.
tonkashouse 3 years ago
thats a sick line!
cheamclimber 3 years ago
TWICE!
tonkashouse 3 years ago
Nice video Doug. I love the part where I almost slip off the rock.
flashclimber 3 years ago