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From: VRigoli
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  • hey guys sorry if i sound like an idiot but im barely getting into all this car stuff and i wanna know if u can drive using a dyno engine because all the videos i've seen the car is always parked. can somebody please explain to me what a dyno engine is?

  • eamh2002 if thinner oil is like water you're going to have a seized engine. N if the oil seems too slippery, that's ok, that's what it's designed for.

  • Motul 300V Forever!!!!!!! Idiots, pay attention when tested Motul fan put more than when other oils were tested, and when tested Nulon fan placed very close! Turbo engine, the better the more cooling power! Loshary)))

  • This independant test and dyno fan proudly brought to you by Nulon oils!!

  • Power can also mean that the oil is too thin to lube at extreme temps, and the cranks etc just move through the oil easier because it's like water, rather than oilish.

    Power isnt always the key, a slippery oil gives more torque and that cannot be misunderstood :p

  • alot of people don't seem to understand how oil works... higher horsepower doesn't mean the oil is thinner and is breaking down faster. putting lighter oil in an engine doesn't mean more horsepower. without the propper retained weight at opperating temperatures, the oil would allow for less smooth operation. TYPICALLY an oil that allows least resistance because of proper lubrication will also support lengthy engine life... and YES some oils are better than others.

  • What we really need is this test done for each oil same car 5000 km and used oil analyzed. The oil that made the most HP might fall apart earlier than the oil that made least. I want HP but I also want my cams to last forever so this debate isn't over yet which of these oils has the most ZDDP I still not convinced

  • I'm willing to bet no one will notice a difference between these in their car. I stuck the edge in my car a couple of days ago. Definitely better than the factory fill though! engine is much quieter with this stuff on startup and it seems to like revving a little more

  • @chrisjeffsmusic Castrol Edge did the exact same for me gm 4.3. Like new again.

  • This test its incomplete... i care more about which oil protects my engine better

  • @BadAssEngineering~ more power is a result of less friction. Less friction means less wear. Dollar for dollar... Nulon is the best.

  • @marek0086 half right: example 0w-40 gives the less friction than 5w-50 but where i live it would be the ultimatum for my engine, since its turbocharged and the outside temp is over 100 degrees you dont need what gives less friction, you need 5w-50 since handles those temps while protecting the engine... it is not as simple as that, there are a lot of factors and to understand them you need to learn from the right people on the subject, he has learned from 24 hour endurance racing wins

  • @BadAssEngineering~ dude!.... its not rocket science!

    And besides, i'v read The Oil Bible by Mike Kauffman, so i know my shit. Also, you're refuting a claim i never made.

    Yes i know it all depends on the operating temp of the engine. The reason they use thick oil for endurance races is because the oil breaks down over time.  So the oil protects better at the start of the race than at the end.

  • @marek0086 There are other factors involved too. Like variances in viscosity, pumpability, ambient temps, humidity and human factors. I'm guessing that the oils which score lower in this particular test stay thicker for longer.

    The best way to test oil is to drive the car for an extended period, drain it and then analyse it with spectroscopy or by using a microscope.

  • @scrfce123~ Actually, you're wrong. An oil analysis is not the best way to go about testing the quality of an oil. The results will depend as much on the ENGINE as they will on the oil itself. The best way to judge an oil is to read the specs of the oil, although on MOST oils its quite hard to obtain those specs in the first place (i know from experience. The oil companies only like to advertise the fields in which the oil did well in... and withhold the ones it performed poorly in!)

  • @its0a0me Say you have a fully broken in engine; If one oil analysis shows up a whole lot more metal than a subsequent analysis with a different oil, then the latter must be better.

  • @scrfce123~ Nah, u cant do it like that. How do u know when your engine is FULLY broken in??

    The only way to PROPERLY test oils is by doing lab tests. And the oil manufacturers have already done them... u just have to know how to read them.

  • @scrfce123~ "pumpability" is directly proportional to VISCOSITY.

    Remember what i said; output-power/torque is the result of a combination of low FLUID-friction (oil viscosity) and low ENGINE-friction (friction between cylinder and piston/rings and valve-train friction). The oils that scored lower in this test may have so because of either higher viscosity OR lower load carrying capabilty (shearing) causing metal-to-metal contact (friction).

  • @its0a0me My apologies, but I haven't really been following all of these comments. The reason that I chose to use the term "pumpability" is because the oil pump runs directly off the crank - You are going to have some net power loss with a more viscous oil - simply because the oil pump will take more effort from the crank. I thought the term reflected this appropriately.

  • 10kw difference at the wheels!! Wow

  • @danoconnell427 - It's invalid. It's no, "wow".

  • @Echeque5 What?

  • @danoconnell427 - Oils shouldn't be compared like this. This, "test", is invalid. It's hokus-pokus marketing hoo-ha.

  • Test castol edge titanium. Thanks.

  • royal purple is the best.

  • Thanks for that video... i was considering between Castrol Edge 5W30 with the much more expensive Mobil 1 5W30. Looks like this about sums it up.

  • can you put viscocity of each one?

  • I just started with Castrol Edge and will stick with it. I can buy it at WalMart, not very expensive. I think it will do me a good job.

  • first of all test 10w-40 or even 10w-60 and compare ...there is also liqui moly and castrol they both make 10w-60 and i think for maximum power and high RPM and for extreme condition its the best oil ever as my experience of daily driving about 350km with high speed and high RPM liqui moly 10w-60 is the best oil,i tried Total 5w-40 and other local brand "Adnoc"5w-40 and both turn to black and thin on 10000km yes sure because 10w-60 is more thick but this is my experience and i wanted to share

  • @mallahTT - Overly thick oils like a 10W-60 increase internal engine drag, which can increase engine wear, increase engine temperatures, reduce power and reduce fuel economy. None of this is desirable.

  • fark, I buy nulon from now. Thanks Vice for your time.

  • From what I know and what Ive been searching mobil 1 and castrol edge are the worst oils for a flat 4 subaru engine...

    motul seems pretty gud as well as nulon.. on my sti Ive been running RP since I rebuilt it.. and its been the best so far to me...

    I also have friends who ve been running castrol edge when they spun a bearing during hi stress moments ...

    people may agree or disagree, but that my experience with it...

  • @christophersaa - An oil doesn't care which engine it is installed in, be it a Subaru engine or a Corvette engine. In this regard, oil is oil.

  • @Echeque5 m.. you are right there, but I have to disagree with your statement mate.. Ive done a lot of research around many subaru forums and the oils I mention have shown to be less efficient...

    Not saying that you are wrong tho.. but from my experience in these engine, from what Ive seen and what Ive searched those oils I mention.. dont perform as good as others... on subaru engines.

    altho, viscosity plays a very important role, but thats another topic.

  • yeah, they put the fan closer when test the nulon!!

    i bet nulon is the 'shitty' engine oil, who wants earn more money.

    peace

  • @JohnGodfather Your right the fan is closer. Good eye

  • he seems like a nice legit guy.

  • Mobile one has better engine protection!! That's what I use and i have 340 miles on my car and never had any engine problems and I drive my Honda civic hard. I change my oil every 7-10 miles I use mobile 1 high performance. Great oil if you want more power you get oil that's gonna protect you engine and then you add performance parts. Obviously no one wants to lose there investment. Mobile1 all the way

  • @melmelcorvette - You change your engines oil every 7-10 miles? Isn't that just a little premature? You must be spending thousands of dollars on oil.

  • Ive been using royal purple for years now, i live & die by it, the thing with royal purple is the oil takes time to work in the long run, eg, servicing your car with the same oil over & over agin, when i service my car myself it runs crap for the first 1000 - 2000 kms, after that its like it gets more performance & goes harder, from what i know & seen, you have to let time for the oil to work, like letting it bed in & letting the additives work thats in the oil, 2 runs 1ce off dont mean sht.

  • Great video. By far the best on YouTube. Thanks

  • All that draining and flushing by the time the last oil on test takes place all the crud is out of the oil well etc so therefore more efficent also the engine will be at it optimum running temp.

    Although i will look into Nulon next oil service.

  • The neck of this guy is kinda crooked. oO

  • btw, castrol edge is group 3 hydrocracked mineral oil not synthetic

  • I second this... just because the car is making more power that only means the viscosity of the oil is giving way to let the internals move faster. Lower viscosity, less protection!

  • Motul is the best.

  • @luisgo88  i have motul and i thing i go buy Royal P...

  • they put the fan closer in the last run thats why nulon got more power!!!!!!

  • @jemboy7777 Good eye! Bullshit test

  • @jemboy7777

    With understanding difference of 6 kw gain between different runs with the same oil is huge. That's why we needed to put the fan closer cause nulon paid us the big bucks.

  • @jemboy7777 The fan has barely moved forward from the castrol one maybe 10cms more. Personally I think that the Car is completely warmed up, running at its optimum temp. its no doubt that the performance goes up each oil change.

  • @jemboy7777 ya i saw that, not a accurate test at all

  • @jemboy7777 the fan is blowing into the RADIATOR to keep it from overheating, don't be ignorant prick

  • @Killerclown360

    WELL OBVIOUSLY THE FAN IS THERE TO STOP THE ENGINE FROM OVERHEATING BUT IF YOU OPEN YOU EYES YOU MAY SEE THAT THE FAN IS CLOSER IN THE LAST RUN AND IF YOU STILL CANT UNDERSTAND WHAT IM SAYING THEN YOUR SIMPLY RETARDED OR KNOW FECK ALL ABOUT CARS!!!

  • @MsFifimaria LMAO you dumbass it has nothing to do with knowing about cars. A fan blowing 0.1psi air into an already 30psi turbocharged engine isin't going to do shit. It's not volume of air into the engine it is boost pressure that gives power and that fan is definitely NOT going to increase boost pressure FROM OUTSIDE THE FUCKING CAR YOU SHITSTAIN

  • @Killerclown360

    THE FAN IS THERE TO KEEP A COOL AIR FLOW AND THE COOLER THE AIR THE MORE POWER,

    SIMPLES!!!

  • @Killerclown360

    IF YOU MOVED THE FAN BACK A COUPLE OF FEET THEN I WOULD PUT MONEY ON IT THAT THE POWER WOULD BE LOWER.

  • @Killerclown360~ What u said is wrong. It is air VOLUME (mass).... NOT boost PRESSURE, that gives u power.

  • @marek0086 then why is it that when you buy a turbo it tells you the PSI BOOST rating and not CUBIC FEET PER MINUTE of air it provides hmmmm?

  • @Killerclown360~ It tells you BOTH, u noob.

    Its called a compressor map.

    U need to learn the basics of thermo-fluid dynamics.

  • Nulon i dont trust them with my ride

  • REDLINE OIL FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!­!!1

  • I would realy like to know were i could buy Nulon oils in the province of Quebec in Canada.

  • i'm no oil guru... but its common sense that a thinner oil will give the engine more hp... so lets say the Nulon is the thinnest oil in the 5w/30 range, so the EVO6 gets most power out of it...

    but how long will the different oils last after 5000km is a whole different story....

  • @N16Ken~ They're ALL 5W-30!

  • Great test, but a little more detail, please.

    Which Nulon/Royal Purple/Castrol products were used? What is the viscosity rating? At what point in time was this video shot? 2009,2010? Are these products still current in 2010/2011? There are now so many different Mobil 1 products with different viscosities out there now my head spins!!

  • @precopster1~ I'll tell u now, DONT waste your money on Mobil 1 shit. Its good, buts its over priced for what it is. Im actually not all that surprised that Nulon made the most power, Nulon is the best non-Ester based synthetic u can get. And its 100% Aussie.... which makes me like it even more (keep money in Oz :D )

  • This is a good video, and I appreciate the work they did for the testing.

    With that said, yes, there could be some small variables here and there, but the most important thing to look at, is the temp displays on the Dyno graphs. If those are consistent, I'd say it's a good test. I'm not going to say too much about the oils, other than it's rather common knowledge that Mobil 1 isn't as good as it used to be, and Royal Purple is insanely overpriced, and has been subject of lawsuits involving bog

  • Buy Motul. The rest arent in the same league

  • @guri131~ Thats true. Motul 300V is 100% Ester based synthetic. All the others are PAO oils.

    Motul 300V is definitely the STRONGEST oil out of the bunch.

  • @marek0086 What is PAO?

  • @klstrucker930419~ Poly-alpha-Olefin (PAO). Its the most common synthetic motor oil base-stock on the market. The other one is Poly-ol-Ester, which is like double the price of PAO, but is stronger and provides better protection.

  • Motul FTW

  • dont buy mobil1 it suks i used it and lost 2 quarts it just evaporate no leaks on car at all i put royal purple in after wards it defently gets mor power

  • the point isnt only hp....what about protection and lasting?

  • Motul 300w will beat them all in a real test and your car will stay protected. What's Nulon???Another unfamiliar brand :)

  • @nikolaychu~DUDE!... Nulon is like the BEST non-Ester synthetic on the Aussie market!

    Mobil 1 is over priced bullshit!

  • Mobil 1 is just too thick and viscous for small displacement engines if you want performance. Castrol Syntec rules for these small motors!

  • Great Video Vince. Is the evo completely stock when you did the oil test? Thanks.

  • From my experience running an engine dyno the biggest changes in power came from differences in oil temperature. Being on a chassi dyno trans fluid, differential fluids, etc. Would have to be recorded and kept at a constant in order really make a accurate comparison. We always made 7 dyno pulls, threw out the highest and lowest measurements then averaged the remaining 5. That keep the dyno's error from effecting your outcomes. Coolant temperature didn't seem to effect the results much if at all.

  • You guys do know that 5W-30 has a certain Viscosity. All the oils are 5W-30 so uh there wont be much difference. You can try thiner oil but then you might get less protection. to get probably less then 3hp.

  • Intresting test.

  • I think all you guys going on about the intake temps and the position of the fan need to have a close look at the AT (atmospheric temp) and IT (intake temp) readings on the individual screens for each dyno run. Despite the fan position changing, the AT and IT both stayed quite constant across all the runs with only a degree or two variance. The Nulon oil actually ran on one of the higher temps. I have no doubt that if the fan was turned off the IT on that run would have been through the roof.

  • Test car sounds like ass.

  • Im thinking on Nulon for my next oil change. I was highly suprised that castrol edge beat 300v Motul. The price difference is ridiculous.

  • I've been using Royal Purple all this time. It done me good, but it is expensive though.

    After watching this video; I'm think about Nulon Oil.

  • LMAO @ CHANGING THE POSITION OF THE FAN FOR EACH RUN!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • turbo civic

    

  • Too many variables in that for it to be considered as even slightly meaningful. They should have done 5 dynos back to back for each oil to account for any spread, they should have waited for each car to cool down AND they should have used a control car with no oil changes.

    I bet there was less than 2kw difference between them all and a dyno is not accurate enough to measure a difference like that.

    If this test was submitted to a scientific journal it would be rejected on this basis.

  • the engine runs better with the Nulon because it is becoming water, and doesn't protect anymore haha

  • @BRYAWN  whaat??

  • @chr1s88blue

    if the oil is overloaded (overheat for exemple), it "burns": it becomes very fluid (like water). you must replace it because it doesn't lub anymore.

    low quality is more subjet to burn

    ps: I am not against Nulon, it was a joke

  • It's all the same shit.

  • Is it just me or is the fan the closest with the nulon oil?

  • I call BS

  • Oil is oil. If you want your car to go faster get a larger turbo. I am a rocket scientist.

  • you see? the very dark tint of the newly filled mobil1 when he drain it out.

    It's mean they just flush the engine by using the first oil...the mobil1.

  • Then there’s the differences in base stocks. Mobil 1, RP and Motul are PAO and ester blends. Nulon and Castrol are Group 3 synthetic products (severely hydroprocessed). The price tags reflect this.

    Quite clearly this test is not comparing apples with apples, therefore you should not pay too much attention to it. Now a more interesting oil test would be to run the engine with an empty cooling system, at full noise for ten minutes, then disassemble the block and inspect for wear…

  • Nulon 5W30 is an API SM, ACEA C3 product. Mobil 1 is an API SM, ILSAC GF-4 product. Bear in mind, ILSAC grades only apply to SAE 0W20, 0W30, 5W20, 5W30, and 10W30.

    Royal Purple and the Motul only meet API SL, a specification that was made obsolete in 2004, replaced by API SM (soon to be superseded by SN in Dec 2010). The upgrade from SL to SM saw more stringent tests for wear, sludge and piston deposits. Therefore SM will outperform an SL product over a period of time. Not in 5 minutes.

  • Unfortunately phosphorus and ZDDP go hand in hand and if you remove one, you remove the other, therefore reducing the anti-wear properties of the oil. A full bodied ZDDP oil will contain +0.11% phosphorus. ACEA C3 products can also meet API SM, and some oil companies market their product as a one-size-fits-all solution. Good for them. Not so good for you.

  • Some industry specifications limit the amount of phosphorus that can be added to engine oil. ACEA C3 (a specification that was derived to meet the operating requirements of diesel particulate filters) and ILSAC GF-4 (ILSAC is the fuel economy version of the API specification) stipulate a maximum of 0.08% phosphorus.

  • Comment removed

  • The number one thing everyone has overlooked is the different performance specifications of each product, which means each product is blended with vastly different additive packages and base stocks. This will affect the performance of each product on an ongoing basis – a criteria oils are tested for. Horsepower is not one of them.

  • Everyone should get NULON...its is THE BEST!!!!...yay!!!.....shit

  • Vince - The tiny differences in this test fall well within the +/- margin of error for a dynamometer. This is clearly demonstrated in the different power levels noted between runs # 1 and # 2, which if there was no margin of error in the dynamometer, then the test results should have been exactly the same between runs # 1 and # 2. They weren't the same. This is why oil companies don't and cant use dynamometer testing. An oil's job is to protect against engine wear, not increase power.

  • @Echeque5 especially since there were other variables such as the engine heat, being that the more an engine makes a pull, the less power it makes each time. completely inaccurate.

  • @Echeque5~ NO... listen, oil campanies dont bother with dyno's (for official claims) because they would all have to use the SAME dyno machine on the same day!

    The reason runs 1 and 2 were different is because the parameters of the car CHANGED (driveline oil, engine temp) between runs 1 and 2!

    Increased power is a BY-PRODUCT of reduced friction (wear)!

  • @Echeque5

    Runs 1 and 2 differ because the inter cooler and motor heat soaks slightly from the first run and thus makes slightly less power. there is a + or - margin, but not that large.

  • @Echeque5 the oils job is to decrease internal friction. More power means less friction, and so the 1 with the most power will give the best lubrication because you got the least amount of friction.

    And the difference between run 1 and 2 can be from difference in engine temperature and air inlet temp so you will never get 2 runs with the same results.

  • @Echeque5 but the lest friction there is the more power you can make so the more power made the less friction and were and tair

  • @r32foaley - Water will provide the least friction of all, but the engine wont last very long using water as a lubricant.

  • @Echeque5~ man u got no idea!.... BOTH your comments are wrong.

    A thicker oil will protect BETTER, but u will lose some power because of the OIL drag.

    And u think WATER will provide the least amount of friction? Thats just idiotic!

    Increased power is a result of LESS engine friction. Engine-friction and fluid-friction are 2 different things.

    Water has low fluid-friction, but engine friction will be huge!

  • why do u keep moving the fan ???

  • @ceelm - Interesting question you have. Further, why is there any fan at all if this test is not biased? Something smells really bad in this video!

  • Before he tested the oils i thought the castrol would come out on top which to be honest it did because that last test wasn't fair and the evo its self sounds like a right dog

  • Comment removed

  • Vince, you suck Nulon Cock you sell out!!!!

  • what bullshit.

  • video it self proves that this is bs. fan is off the whole time except for nulon.

  • I think you could see a variance like that, but i ask myself why. Is it because some oils coat surfaces better causing more drag? Is it the viscountcy's are incorrect on some of them? I'm more interested in engine protection than a couple HP.

    I played this game and bought Eneos, i was not pleased with what the rod and mains looked like afterwords. I would like to see some cavitation tests and viscosity tests. I'll stick with dino oil until that happens, because 50 bucks for oil is to much.

  • What a pile of wank - leave the fan alone ya fat fanny!

  • oil will NEVER make that big of a difference...your test is shit

  • You got to try out AMSOIL or ENEOS motor oil I hear there the best!!!

  • Don't move the fan next time for the Nulon oil.

  • Hey, next time, how about not moving the fucking fan for the Nulon?

    What a bunch of bullshit.

  • after that test that company should be giving you guys free oil. To bad your in Ausiland id have you build me bad arse e30 325i shootn for 400hp.

  • I would like to see the same oils tested with 3000 miles of stop and go traffic. compare mileage, oil analyzing engine temps. oil filter inspection. Theres bound to be uncontrollable variables but test results would be more interesting.

  • I'm not sure it makes sense to judge an oil based on power. Fill the sump with WD-40 will provide great power gains at least once. Wear testing, heat cycles, foam accumulation, viscosity degradation, etc. are much better ways to determine what oil to use on your expensive piece of equipment.

  • I can almost guarantee you that if they would have run the Mobil 1 again at the end, they would have gotten a considerably higher figure than first time around. The testing parameters were not very controlled/constant. ie....dyno heat!

  • look how dark Royal Purple was coming out of the bottle!!.... i wouldnt trust an oil with that much dye in it!

    The Motul 300V is clearly the strongest oil out of all these. The 300V is the only TRUE Synthetic out of all these.

  • Remeber people. This test only tests ONE aspect of the oils performance....and that is.... its lubricity when NEW. The oil that rates the lowest (in this test) could very well rate the HIGHEST out of all after, say, 4000km's.

    Thats why oils have Technical Specifications. Forget about all the marketing and lip service and meaningless claims made by the oil manufacturers. Compare the SCIENTIFIC RESULTS!!

  • I only would only put Amsoil or preferably motul in my car if I really cared about it or it was a track whore. The motul300v 20w60 is probably the best oil available for a track car. For a street car it would be fine to use one of their slightly lower weights. 15w50 or 10w40 for example(wouldn't go lower than that). Don't use the "energy/fuel conserving" oils as they are required to have lower levels of zinc and phosphorus which protect your valvetrain ie cams, valvesprings etc.

  • ok, but why did they keep moving the fan? it was farthest for motul and closest for nulon

  • This test worth shit, because to really test the oil you have to do some millages on the car when oil reaches it's working stage. It doesn't matter that they drained the engine two times and changed filter every time. Other thing is the fan, as it was mentioned. So not really god job guys =/

  • @audiprodriver oil-to-oil will typically not really increase/decrease horsepower drastically either.

    Wear metal measurements anyone???

  • Have a look at where the Fan is positioned on the Nulon Dyno. Its further forward than the others. The Motul one its 4 feet away.

    The fan being so close in the final run will definitely increase horsepower. Its the same as driving through the hills on a cold night compared to driving through the city on a 40 degree day.

  • 4 feet?

    it barely moved 5 center-meters!

  • @icebergstu LOL you right=)

  • @icebergstu Yeah, they probably had the fan going on a slower setting for the other oils too.

  • The guy below would probably rave about nulon if it was the most exspinsive oil lol castrol = FAIL ROYAL PURPLE FTW

  • The Castrol Synthetic-series oils are probably the best quality oils in their price range. The 5W-30 is one of the best performing oils in its class!

  • Hmm I have an idea... Y not use Mobil 1 Gold 0W 40 Instead of Mobil 1 Silver 5W 50... Even GT-R R35 recommended Mobil 1 Gold on the Engine Oil Filler cap...

  • this test is wasting my time, i would never use NULON in my porsche turbo

    the best oil for high proformance european cars is castrol 10w-60

    nothing can touch CASTROL 10W-60

    MOBIL ONE 5W-50 CRAP

    CASTROL 10W-60 WORLDS BEST PROFORMANCE OIL

  • That's what I said why not TRY "Mobil 1 Gold 0W 40" Instead of "Mobil 1 Silver 5W 50" get my point...

  • i tried mobil one 5w-50 no difference to normal porshe oil

    i tried castrol edge bwm M-power 10w-60 big improvment in my proformance

    CASTROL EDGE SPORT 10W-60 - CRAP

    CASTROL EDGE 10W-60 BMW M-POWER APPROVED - FANTASTIC

  • @TheWonderPlace The Castrol Edge tested here is "Edge Sport" :)

  • hey dumbass! Like most people.... you understand very little about oil!

    U should be using a 0W-40, 5W-40 or 10W-40 top quality synthetic for your car. You'll be losing power with a -60 weight oil.

  • Mmmm only a little. 0w40 is only 20 lighter than 20w60 when hot. Soooo it's not really that different The 0w40 is just easier to start cold if you live in cold climate.

    If the car is ever tracked or driven hard on canyon/mountain drives 60 weight provides much higher protection. All the drivers I race with swear by the 300v lemans oil from motul. A few use Amsoil but never lower than 15W50. Vehicles are VW's, Subaru's, Mitsubishi's and BMW's with 400-600 wheel horsepower.

  • Listen.... it depends on 3 things.

    1. Surface-area of crank and rod bearings.

    2. Power to Displacement ratio

    3. Cooling system

    A -60 weight oil is absolute over-kill unless u are racing Endurance (hence why they called it "le mans")

    u want a -40 MAX for the street.... and a -50 MAX for a track car.

  • If people are on here and really care that much to watch a video about what is the best oil for performance they probably drive their cars hard and maybe even track them. In that case an engine takes a heavy beating under track conditions therefore requiring more protection. The thing is that Motul and Amsoil are real 100% synthetics therefore far superior in protection quality and ability to stand the test of time. Power difference in minimal. Protection is greatly increased.

  • Also Amsoil and Motul are allowed to have more Zinc and Phosphorous which protect the valvetrain and engine components. These materials have been reduced in normal and high efficiency motor oils because they increase catalytic converter failure and increase emissions.

    Also, Motul contains teflon which builds over time one cylinder walls and is able to stay lubricated better at high rpm's when oil starvation becomes a problem.

  • Nope. Amsoil is Poly-Alpha-Olefin.

    Motul is Poly-ol-Ester..... which is superior!

    PAO and POE are BOTH 100% synthetic.

    Like i said.... oil-viscosity-requirements are dependant on 3 things.

  • @marek0086 - Ester based oils are not superior to PAO based oils, just different. Pure Ester based oils tend to have seal compatibility/leak issues, whereas PAO based oils don't. AMSOIL is a blend of both basestocks, (not just PAO's),for the best overall performance/protection.

  • @Echeque5~ bullshit... its the other way around!.... PAO oils have more of an effect on seals.

    POE is superior to PAO for many reasons.

  • @marek0086 - With over 25 years in the synthetic oil industry, that hasn't been my understanding at all. I could be wrong of course, but after 25 years, that's not likely. :)

  • I've always been a castrol fan so thats what ill continue to use.

  • GTX-3 is the best performing MINERAL oil in its class.

  • In every single test it's located in the exact same spot, only laying motionless for all tests except for the Nulon oil. I'm only stating facts. Throw the video up onto a 46" HD and you'll clearly see what the rest of us can.

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  • higher kW doesnt mean everything? Wear protection? Clean? Reliability? Most ppl drive a normal car (not that FI EVO), so who care about the kW gain ...

  • During the last test with the Nulon oil there was a small black object moving back and forth rapidly near the front wheel rollers. It looks like it's fluttering from the fan blowing on it. Take note that it only does this during the Nulon test. Who cares where the fan is located at when it's not even freaking on!!! Testing standards = real results.

  • @Veehawk thats the strap you use to strap your car to the dyno,,it will lay in different ways when you strap in a new car,,its not laying in a way to be blown around on the other cars,,lol

  • I think you guys should do your math. For royal purple your first test resulted in 174 and second in 173.8. Can you tell me how the average is lower than both test results? just because of the carelessness I wouldn't even consider your work viable.

  • Thanks for doing this test...

    But like any comparison test, the testing environment should be replicated to the same specs each time... Pity the fan was not measured from the car each time, this could have influenced the results quite considerably... If you would want to shut everyone up and stick by your results, you will re-run the test but with everything much more regulated. Its a good attempt at comparison, but just that minor detail can but doubt into your results....

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