Poor installation of insulation and I am not exactly thrilled with the quality of the installation of the NM-B wiring. "Workmanlike manner" is what the NEC calls for, not "Every which way you can". Even if that area was unfaced and hidden behind a fireplace the wiring should have been run in the stud space for protection. Please tell me this was an owner-build and not done by professionals!
@Bigrignohio Sorry to say this was built by a very well respected "custom" builder here in Austin prior to my remodeling it. I think it's nearly impossible to get a very good batt insulation install. -Matt Risinger
Also depends what type of barrier you're using. Lining it with a none breathable sheet of PE on the inside is basically tanking the entire timber frame. With the 'open' side on the wet side. Which = timber mush
I've seen people doing this in the UK as well, with rigid PU, it's hard to cut dead on and they'll leave gigantic gaps round the sides. I could take a down light out in the kitchen and see fluff moving around the cut out from the draft going through. One option is to cut the rigid board slightly to small all round, then use foam to fill the gap for a tight seal. Vapour barriers are on the outside in the UK with a 1" gap between it and the insulation to avoid timber rot.
I don't think that should have passed inspections. Fiberglass batting requires an air barrier touching each side to reach it's rated r-value. Bad builder for not using 5 1/2" batt, bad inspector for allowing it......they also allow it a lot when walls face attic space. Maybe I am wrong but I am pretty sure wall batt manufacurers require an air barrier in contact with insulation on both sides.
I think you are placing too much of a value on wall insulation. I see Austin wants r-15 batts or B.I.B.S, but do they mention an overal r-value? 15 R-value in the walls doesn't make sense to me for Austin climate, seems like the extra cost would outway the savings, r-13 is just too dang cheap in comparison and wall insulation really only accounts for 10-15% of the envelope on avg. because of wall framing, windows, and doors. Compressed fiberglass may lose overall r-value, but it gains R/inch.
Hi, I think your video focus' more on how NOT to install batt insulation and is a little biased. When used correctly, it can be very effective. The same could be said of spray insulation if not applied properly. The blown in can be done VERY poorly if the installer doesn't ensure it has reached every cavity in the wall. I've seen several renos where the insulation has been blown in and it hasn't reached the bottom of the cavity or it has settled because of insufficient material.
Yes your right I'm not saying that you yourself are an idiot just the way video was described. Maybe the builders in your area need some proper insulators to come there and set new standards! And although I know batt will be a thing of the past I do agree with sprayfoam which we also do, but if it's not right it could be worse than better! Again instilation!
Your an idiot! Everything you just showed had nothing to do with batt insulation it was all the installers fault!! I do this everyday in northern Canada where we have all climates and if it's done properly there's no issue we need people who care about their work!!
@oneDarkday Thanks for your comments, though I'd disagree on the idiot part. One of my main issues with batt insulation is just what you're describing. The installers are paid by the job (piecework) and it's nearly impossible to get a good install. Spray foam or Blown-in cellulose/fiberglass are much easier to get a flawless install that will perform well even if the installer isn't perfect. I'm not abdicating the job of proper builder supervision. Batts aren't ideal. Matt Risinger
Why are you against the use of a warm side poly VB in a humid climate? In our Pacific North West climate which is very high humidity (Boreal rainforest) requires an internal poly as standard practice. Of course we get snow and cold climate conditions which amplifies our moisture fluxuations. I can't imagine not using one in a standard residential application. I do agree about the spray foam, although not perfect it sure is nice getting full R-value and VB in one shot.
@ironflyer In a hot/humid climates, building assemblies need to be protected from getting wet from the exterior and allowed to dry towards the interior. Accordingly, air barriers and vapor retarders are installed on the exterior of building assemblies, and allowed to dry towards the interior by using permeable wall finishes, installing cavity insulations without vapor retarders (unfaced fiberglass batts, spray foam, etc.) and avoiding interior "non-breathable" wall coverings (vinyl wallpaper)
Poor installation of insulation and I am not exactly thrilled with the quality of the installation of the NM-B wiring. "Workmanlike manner" is what the NEC calls for, not "Every which way you can". Even if that area was unfaced and hidden behind a fireplace the wiring should have been run in the stud space for protection. Please tell me this was an owner-build and not done by professionals!
Bigrignohio 5 months ago
@Bigrignohio Sorry to say this was built by a very well respected "custom" builder here in Austin prior to my remodeling it. I think it's nearly impossible to get a very good batt insulation install. -Matt Risinger
MattRisinger 5 months ago
Also depends what type of barrier you're using. Lining it with a none breathable sheet of PE on the inside is basically tanking the entire timber frame. With the 'open' side on the wet side. Which = timber mush
lexichronicle2 10 months ago
I've seen people doing this in the UK as well, with rigid PU, it's hard to cut dead on and they'll leave gigantic gaps round the sides. I could take a down light out in the kitchen and see fluff moving around the cut out from the draft going through. One option is to cut the rigid board slightly to small all round, then use foam to fill the gap for a tight seal. Vapour barriers are on the outside in the UK with a 1" gap between it and the insulation to avoid timber rot.
lexichronicle2 10 months ago
I don't think that should have passed inspections. Fiberglass batting requires an air barrier touching each side to reach it's rated r-value. Bad builder for not using 5 1/2" batt, bad inspector for allowing it......they also allow it a lot when walls face attic space. Maybe I am wrong but I am pretty sure wall batt manufacurers require an air barrier in contact with insulation on both sides.
HomeEnergyNow 10 months ago
I think you are placing too much of a value on wall insulation. I see Austin wants r-15 batts or B.I.B.S, but do they mention an overal r-value? 15 R-value in the walls doesn't make sense to me for Austin climate, seems like the extra cost would outway the savings, r-13 is just too dang cheap in comparison and wall insulation really only accounts for 10-15% of the envelope on avg. because of wall framing, windows, and doors. Compressed fiberglass may lose overall r-value, but it gains R/inch.
HomeEnergyNow 10 months ago
Hi, I think your video focus' more on how NOT to install batt insulation and is a little biased. When used correctly, it can be very effective. The same could be said of spray insulation if not applied properly. The blown in can be done VERY poorly if the installer doesn't ensure it has reached every cavity in the wall. I've seen several renos where the insulation has been blown in and it hasn't reached the bottom of the cavity or it has settled because of insufficient material.
bushwacker911 1 year ago
Yes your right I'm not saying that you yourself are an idiot just the way video was described. Maybe the builders in your area need some proper insulators to come there and set new standards! And although I know batt will be a thing of the past I do agree with sprayfoam which we also do, but if it's not right it could be worse than better! Again instilation!
oneDarkday 1 year ago
Your an idiot! Everything you just showed had nothing to do with batt insulation it was all the installers fault!! I do this everyday in northern Canada where we have all climates and if it's done properly there's no issue we need people who care about their work!!
oneDarkday 1 year ago
@oneDarkday Thanks for your comments, though I'd disagree on the idiot part. One of my main issues with batt insulation is just what you're describing. The installers are paid by the job (piecework) and it's nearly impossible to get a good install. Spray foam or Blown-in cellulose/fiberglass are much easier to get a flawless install that will perform well even if the installer isn't perfect. I'm not abdicating the job of proper builder supervision. Batts aren't ideal. Matt Risinger
MattRisinger 1 year ago
Why are you against the use of a warm side poly VB in a humid climate? In our Pacific North West climate which is very high humidity (Boreal rainforest) requires an internal poly as standard practice. Of course we get snow and cold climate conditions which amplifies our moisture fluxuations. I can't imagine not using one in a standard residential application. I do agree about the spray foam, although not perfect it sure is nice getting full R-value and VB in one shot.
ironflyer 1 year ago
@ironflyer In a hot/humid climates, building assemblies need to be protected from getting wet from the exterior and allowed to dry towards the interior. Accordingly, air barriers and vapor retarders are installed on the exterior of building assemblies, and allowed to dry towards the interior by using permeable wall finishes, installing cavity insulations without vapor retarders (unfaced fiberglass batts, spray foam, etc.) and avoiding interior "non-breathable" wall coverings (vinyl wallpaper)
MattRisinger 1 year ago
2017?
bully86 1 year ago