Climbing Tools: Crevasse Rescue Exercise

[rannix18]

i kind of want to push my friend into a crevasse to try this

[sjones5731]

is there any good reason to use a backed up munter for the prussik or would a clove work?

[Mateyhv1]

Hi Joe, awesome vid! I have a doubt though: for raising the victim with a Z-pulley with basic equipment what would you use as a ratchet on the main anchor?

a) prussic and rope through a binner (not redundan if prussic fails or passes the binner)

b) prussic and garda hitch on two binners (redundant but garda may be unstable and adds some extra friction)

c) other suggestions

I suppose victims weight would prevent prussic passing the binner...

Thanks

[MsBigcanoe]

u r and idoit who is making fun of joe simpson and simon yates. u r just a wannobe. i bet u dont even climb

[mikebarter387]

@MsBigcanoe And your point is?

[tylerars24]

Your videos are awesome! I like the touching the void reference.

[ringenbach0701]

Joe,

After creating the raise, how would pass the knot through the autoblock (or ratchet) when working against gravity raising victim. When transfering the victim on a lower, you are able to slip the prusik knot using the munterr hitch. This is not possible on a raise unless you have a mechanical advantage or are very strong.

[Lummers70]

Hi Joe,

Been following your vids - great stuff and has been very helpful.

One thing I could use some help on (hope you can help). In the scenario where you are tied in to the end of a rope and the first falls into a crevasse, how would you go about transfering the load onto an anchor? Any advice or a vid would be appreciated!!!

Keep up the videos please

[mikebarter387]

@thegibsonfromhell  you sure?

[thegibsonfromhell]

@mikebarter387 Haha, yeah, I'm sure I'm wrong. Now I see it. Sorry about that! =)

[pitot1988]

"The of of the world use centimeter..." Classic

[OlliHolliCa]

That's a big call your making about simon yates and joe simpson. problem was simon was lowering joe off a bucket seat in the snow not a bomber anchor in rock. seems like you either have a lot of jealousy about there success withe the book and film ( it did almost kill them remember). Also even if it is possible to do this from a bucket seat with direct body belay how do you know that they had another rope to use ! you need to get off your high horse mate.

[mikebarter387]

@OlliHolliCa fanboy, maybe you should read the book. What exactly was the crux of their problem?

[Lazloclimbz]

@mikebarter387 "Fanboy" is right; you're wrong.

[50cliber]

@mikebarter387 i love you your just like YO FANBOY

[MrGlacierNova]

@mikebarter387 doing this off a body belay would be pretty easy, of course, but remember that joe's hands were so bad he couldn't manage to tie prussiks to get back up the rope and simon's hands likely weren't much better. As you know, thin cord is hard to handle with frostbitten hands.

[J3VVZ]

@OlliHolliCa, Simon got in trouble when the knot joining the two ropes ran into his stitch plate. Mike is showing you how to transfer the load so you can pass the knot and continue to lower. Had Simon passed the knot he wouldn't have had to cut Joe of the the stuck rope.

[hrmnnhss2]

@OlliHolliCa: Bullshit. There's no reason why Simon couldn't have used this technique just because the belay point was his harness. And you don't need "another rope". They had loops to climb up the rope with Prussik knots (one of them escapes from Joe's frozen hands when he's hanging over the crevasse). For this manouver, Simon could have even used the end of the same rope he was using to lower Joe!

[atomminder]

@hrmnnhss2  You obviously dont know what you are talking about so be quiet.

[hrmnnhss2]

There's no reason why Simon couldn't have used this technique just because he was using his harness as the belay point. And you don't need "another rope". You can use your end of the main rope.

[hrmnnhss2]

@OlliHolliCa Even if his belay point was at his harness, there's no reason why Simon couldn't have used the technique shown here to let the knot pass through the belay device. And you don't need "another rope". You can do it with your end of the main rope.

The Marchand knot would have been better in their case than the Prussik. You can tie it single-handed (they were also both frostbitten), and without detaching the loop from your harness, so you don't risk losing the loop at the worst moment.

[hrmnnhss2]

@OlliHolliCa

[knuckleupjonez]

Joe..or Mike..

Im a beginner. Big time beginner. Have good climbs in Las Cruces..coralitos ranch..the tanks in elpaso.

Can you recommend anywhere in particular?

Also...any recommendations on shoes?

[TheRopeTV]

LOL avoiding the void.... I only laugh because they lived to talk about it, but even they say they shouldnt have been up there.

[oceandojo]

I missed the switch where after the transfer where you slip the prussik

The video instruction is clear, but the visual on the hand operation is block often.

Thank you for posting this and great instruction on prerequisite knots.

[bindingropes]

Great video, I did this rescue in a training course and they called it a load release hitch, but it all works the same. I like the way you used a reverso to ratchet, I was wondering if you have tried it with a grigri and if you found it easier or just more of a pain.

[mikebarter387]

A grigri would work fine but it is seldom carried outside of a sport climbing/gym scenario. Thought a basic tool like a reverso was more likely what folks had on hand.

[rdhatch]

Mike - You are my hero.

Except - 6:59 freaks me out! The carabiner is loaded at the very edge of the gate.

[mikebarter387]

I am with you there. Wire gate may not be the best choice.

[usardave]

Nice Job Mike !

 Enjoyed watching your series grow and evolve.

[thecookiecutter18]

I have been doing this by substituting the tied off munter/prussic with a mariners hitch on the prussic. I think I like your method more. I'd much rather have my buddy on a tied off munter vs a mariner. Good Vids.

[panzergrenadier90]

what do you use as belay loop on BD Alpine bod?

[mikebarter387]

They are kind of awkward are they not?

I take a locker clip the re-enforced center between the leg loops and also include the waist band. If you didn't include the waist band likely you would flip upside down when hit with a big force or carrying a heavy pack.

[chelemena182]

your videos just get better and better every time.

thanks and keep up the good job.

[dhartin]

I'm just a simple sport climber thats read "into the void" and just accepted that it was a bad situation, but after seeing this I realize its just too easy to learn this stuff and there really is no reason to cut the rope if your actually prepared for what may happen. awesome vid

[darkgift06]

Great video! a little confusing watching the first time thru but on a second watch it all clicks

[ZORRO666]

Well my friend, as always is very intersting learn from you.

thanks for the vids.