When we were camped at thumb we saw slides coming off willis and curtis all afternoon. All were calv avalanches off liberty cap. The last of the day was huge. It slid down the curtis wall with so much volume, I think the debris actually crossed the bergshrund for the carbon although it was hard to tell. The cloud filled the whole carbon valley to a height of about 600 feet. It's amazing to think people have actually climbed that route.
looks like an epic trip. although, did i spy a an ADT (a.k.a. american death triangle) as one of your anchors around 6:40? seems like a really bad idea...
other than that, seems like a fantastic climb. i sort have climbing envy, seeing as the east coast doesn't have anything nearly as awesome...
Your "american death triangle" at 6:40 causes substantial force multiplication on the protection points and the rope running through a single wiregate biner? The least you could have done was spin the biner so the gate isn't facing the ice and liable to pushed open.
Oh, and never incorporate a tool into an anchor. Craig Luebben's testing showed that tools used in anchor start popping around 400 lbs of force. Ice screws start failing at 3500 lbs.
Great Video. A group of guys that I just climbed Denali with want to climb liberty ridge in March. Do you feel like you need to know a lot of technical knowledge and skill to climb liberty ridge? I am super comfortable with crazy exposure, but my technical skills up to this point are up to 5th class winter mountaineering. ADVICE PLEASE????
@Tillyinnm Liberty Ridge is a climb, not a "technical hike" like most routes on Denali. You definitely need a whole lot more experience. You need to learn about anchor building, self rescue, efficient climbing/frontpointing, rappelling, etc.
The biggest thing is the bad--meaning creating much higher forces than they need to--angles. That's the triangle everydayexplorer is talking about. This topic is much better served by skilled instruction: check out courses by the AMGA, AAI, NOLS or Outward Bound to name a few.
Wow this is a kick ass video. Congratulations to all of you. Now I know why Yannick has such a huge beard-to keep him warm in such extreme conditions. Yannick I promise I will never make fun of you for the beard. Congrats Shelly!
Hoping to do this route this summer. Saw some steep slopes with no ax for self arrest, but still liked the vid.
InspirationPending 2 weeks ago
Avid and experience hiker here but never done anything like this. Awesome. Maybe some day :)
atl1898 5 months ago
Impressive!
RB902050 8 months ago
great video- really, really overbearing music
jwbrown1968 8 months ago
When we were camped at thumb we saw slides coming off willis and curtis all afternoon. All were calv avalanches off liberty cap. The last of the day was huge. It slid down the curtis wall with so much volume, I think the debris actually crossed the bergshrund for the carbon although it was hard to tell. The cloud filled the whole carbon valley to a height of about 600 feet. It's amazing to think people have actually climbed that route.
snakedike 10 months ago
looks like an epic trip. although, did i spy a an ADT (a.k.a. american death triangle) as one of your anchors around 6:40? seems like a really bad idea...
other than that, seems like a fantastic climb. i sort have climbing envy, seeing as the east coast doesn't have anything nearly as awesome...
ragingviolinist 1 year ago
Good climb. Terrible, terrible anchors.
Your "american death triangle" at 6:40 causes substantial force multiplication on the protection points and the rope running through a single wiregate biner? The least you could have done was spin the biner so the gate isn't facing the ice and liable to pushed open.
Oh, and never incorporate a tool into an anchor. Craig Luebben's testing showed that tools used in anchor start popping around 400 lbs of force. Ice screws start failing at 3500 lbs.
brokesomeribs 1 year ago
Anchors looked like ass.. Glad you made it up safely.
elgeezo 2 years ago
Great video man! Nice camera work in some trying conditions
BryanMLong 2 years ago
Great Video. A group of guys that I just climbed Denali with want to climb liberty ridge in March. Do you feel like you need to know a lot of technical knowledge and skill to climb liberty ridge? I am super comfortable with crazy exposure, but my technical skills up to this point are up to 5th class winter mountaineering. ADVICE PLEASE????
Tillyinnm 2 years ago
@Tillyinnm Liberty Ridge is a climb, not a "technical hike" like most routes on Denali. You definitely need a whole lot more experience. You need to learn about anchor building, self rescue, efficient climbing/frontpointing, rappelling, etc.
brokesomeribs 1 year ago
Gnarly anchors man. Good video though, congrats on summiting.
MountainBum7 2 years ago
So cool ! we were there june 15-18 2009 !!
g0686 2 years ago
Watchout for the American Death Triangle on your anchors. Cool video otherwise.
everydayexplorer 2 years ago 2
the ice anchor at 6:40 is a death trap. could have gotten someone killed... you should learn how to do a proper ice anchor before the next climb....
danfurtick 2 years ago
I have climbed Rainier only once so I'm new to mountaineering, could you please tell me what was wrong with the anchor?
Thank you!
Joelwww7 2 years ago
The biggest thing is the bad--meaning creating much higher forces than they need to--angles. That's the triangle everydayexplorer is talking about. This topic is much better served by skilled instruction: check out courses by the AMGA, AAI, NOLS or Outward Bound to name a few.
liambowler 1 year ago
@liambowler Thank you for the comment :-)!
Joelwww7 1 year ago
Kevin looks like a ninja in the snow cave!
jprmovie 2 years ago 2
Wow this is a kick ass video. Congratulations to all of you. Now I know why Yannick has such a huge beard-to keep him warm in such extreme conditions. Yannick I promise I will never make fun of you for the beard. Congrats Shelly!
yasssssde 2 years ago
awesome job climbing and great film! Thank for sharing! It was fun to see the ridge again
neoday2 2 years ago
Thanks J! The mountain was greatful enough to provide us with some good action shot opportunities. The mountain gods were with us on that trip!
bighornmonkey 2 years ago
Damn!!! This video is effing great! Best one yet Yannick. Great job - very inspiring! Congratulations to the team.
johnston007 2 years ago