@barrythom1... Its flooding. So chances are dirt from the fuel tank is blocking the seal between the needle and seat. The needle cant stop fuel from running into the carb. Sometimes the problem can fix itself but not always. I would pull the spark plug and pull the engine a dozen time until no more fuel comes out of the spark plug hole. Clean the plug and reinstall it. Try starting the engine and see it if the obstruction clears itself. If not the carb needs to be cleaned once again
@barrythom1 ...... The s-200 is only about 2hp but they should have a decent amount of power. The best thing you can do for these is treat them to new paddles. It makes a world of difference if there worn more than a 1/4". Good Luck.
for those that are confused on what part numbers they need or assembly...first get the model# and serial# off of your machine and goto Toro's website goto Customer Support -> Homeowner - Equipment Support -> Manuals -> type in model# and serial# -> goto Manuals again and there will be a master parts list with assembly diagrams and the service manual applicable to your machine.
Its weird. Last year? I rebuilt the Toro S-140 Techumseh carb with the kit, ran perfect! This year? it loses its prime now and only runs in the full choke position! Now I know these carbs are sensitive but Jeesuz! This is the reason people hate diaphragm carbs. I mean, it just sat untouched. Why do they develop issues so easily? And is there another carb model that can be substituted in its place? Perhaps one that has a better performance record? Now there is 18 in and I must rebuild again!
@EddieGoregor .............You can blame ETHANOL in your fuel. Ethanol destroys fuel lines, diaphragms, o-rings, needle seats, and worst of all it pulls moisture out of the air. It is best to use a fuel Stabilizer like Sta-bil for storage or run the engine completely out of fuel.
Your symptoms are a clogged main jet. you can probably get away with a quick 5 minute clean. With the carb attached: pull the bottom cover and diaphragm. Remove the H high needle on the side and spray carb cleaner
@sixtyfiveford You took the same words to tell me that local lawn mower shop did when they sold me yet another diaphragm kit. Ethanol destroyed the one I put in 10 months ago. I did try spraying and compressed air, no good! LOL anyhow I really went bad with the S140 this time. After getting it running good again...the drive chain got a little loose during the throw. Almost done, it was throwing less and less. It grind-ed off all the Aluminum sprocket teeth. A steel bike one will do.
@EddieGoregor ....There are still gas stations that have refused to conform and have ethanol free gasoline. This website lists some of them (by state); pure-gas.org
Did this same rebuild today before watching the video, had to call Tecumseh tech, was told by them that if the carb body is embossed with and S by the diaphragm then the order is carb body, gasket,diaphragm, cap. with no S it's just the opposite. Also told me the diaphragm goes in with the big metal disc towards the outside of the carb, not towards the carb body.
@fatrat440 .......All Tecumseh diaphragm carbs go Body, Gasket, Diaphragm UNLESS it has an "F" debossed on it then it goes Body, Diaphragm, Gasket. Your Tecumseh Tech is mistaken like 90% of everyone that rebuilds these and has me fix them for fuel starvation. The big metal disk always faces the body of the carb. All of this info is taken from years of experience and of course the Tecumseh Technicians Handbook.
@fatrat440 You can download the Techumseh handbook from them online free! The Technicians handbook and the small carb and engine guide. I got em both from them for the clicking.
Thanks for posting up the carb rebuild info. It helped me on the one I was working with.... but, was the (hs) welch plug left out on purpose (under the diaphram)? Thanks again for posting.
@mardyn153 ...Some Tecumseh diaphragm carbs come without them. But there is another larger passage drilled in the body on the models with them to allow fuel into the chamber.
Well Guess What? Its a "1 Pull" now! Just in time here in Somerset Co. NJ. From the correction of the diaphragm you showed me, to the setting of the screws as per the video. It threw 16 inches of snow for hours, and 10 days later another 8 inches! Only now, after all that I got to replace a bad thrower bearing on the chain side. Not bad for a machine I threw in my back seat (put out on the curb, they gave up!!!) as I drove by. One man's trash...means my back isn't thrown instead of the snow!
Wow I can't even begin to tell you how scarce the information is (in print, at various sites) on what you provided with 2 videos! You provided a score of facts that, if you don't know it, and had to search it out (Oh god the "Fix-it" forums!!) you'd be looking on-line for 4 to 6 hours...and still have to "trial and error" it. THANKS
I only have 1 question. I always thought "1 turn" of the screw meant that one side of the slot does a 360. your 1 turn looks like a 180. am I wrong again? Like a rule of thumb for screw turns? I'm not criticizing at all. Because I may be wrong (and I try not to be, but it happens!) so look closely at your video unless (Obviously) you already know. I need to reference it forever. Thanks.
You are right. 1 turn is 360 degrees. I accidentally only did half turns(talking, making a video and thinking about what to say next I must have been distracted). The carb had already been messed with by the previous owner and I was going to have to fine tune them anyways.
I was only using the technique as a helpful tool for people wanting to rebuild the carbs themselves. As a general rule of thumb the H or high jet gets turned out 1.5 full turns and the L low 1 full turn. This will allow the machine to start and run but tuning for your altitude/fuel will be necessary. BUT if the carb hasn't been played with then resetting the needles to the same they were before should make it run just right.
sixtyfiveford my friend has a s-140 the gas is blowing out the muffuler on the side the carb
has a new needle and seat, gaskets,the carb was rebuilt,all parts that come in the kit was
replaced. Gas is blowing out the muffuler ,located on the side of the machine.can you help.
barrythom1 4 weeks ago
@barrythom1 ... Does the machine actually run?
sixtyfiveford 4 weeks ago
@sixtyfiveford yea it ran for 45 min to an hour,then it shut off ,he started it back up
it started putt5ing and cut off.Now what it does is it putts ,then the gas runs out of
the exhust.Thats strange.Yes it runs but with the gas blowing out the exhust shuts
it back down.I know its old,but why would the gas blow out the exhust?
barrythom1 4 weeks ago
@barrythom1... Its flooding. So chances are dirt from the fuel tank is blocking the seal between the needle and seat. The needle cant stop fuel from running into the carb. Sometimes the problem can fix itself but not always. I would pull the spark plug and pull the engine a dozen time until no more fuel comes out of the spark plug hole. Clean the plug and reinstall it. Try starting the engine and see it if the obstruction clears itself. If not the carb needs to be cleaned once again
sixtyfiveford 3 weeks ago
sixtyfiveford i got a s-200 it runs good,but i think i lack a little power i haven`t made any
adjustments think i will ajust the high idle that sould take care of that,thanks dude.
barrythom1 1 month ago
@barrythom1 ...... The s-200 is only about 2hp but they should have a decent amount of power. The best thing you can do for these is treat them to new paddles. It makes a world of difference if there worn more than a 1/4". Good Luck.
sixtyfiveford 1 month ago
why would the gas runs or fills up the butterfly cup on the carb toro s200 when you lean
it down or hold the handle down
barrythom1 1 month ago
@barrythom1 ... Bad needle seat or Dried up diaphragm
sixtyfiveford 1 month ago
for those that are confused on what part numbers they need or assembly...first get the model# and serial# off of your machine and goto Toro's website goto Customer Support -> Homeowner - Equipment Support -> Manuals -> type in model# and serial# -> goto Manuals again and there will be a master parts list with assembly diagrams and the service manual applicable to your machine.
stratdude83 2 months ago
just goes to show the wonders of what a can of carb clean can do...gas, spark and air is all you need!
stratdude83 2 months ago
Excellent Video has been very helpful Thanks!
Brookwoodbass 4 months ago
I can't thank you enough. Well done vid. My old $5 Garage sale grab is now worth it. 2 year old gas and a gummed up carb. Thanks again.
TheMontanaDave 1 year ago
@TheMontanaDave ...... GREAT, I am glad you got it going.
sixtyfiveford 1 year ago
Its weird. Last year? I rebuilt the Toro S-140 Techumseh carb with the kit, ran perfect! This year? it loses its prime now and only runs in the full choke position! Now I know these carbs are sensitive but Jeesuz! This is the reason people hate diaphragm carbs. I mean, it just sat untouched. Why do they develop issues so easily? And is there another carb model that can be substituted in its place? Perhaps one that has a better performance record? Now there is 18 in and I must rebuild again!
EddieGoregor 1 year ago
@EddieGoregor .............You can blame ETHANOL in your fuel. Ethanol destroys fuel lines, diaphragms, o-rings, needle seats, and worst of all it pulls moisture out of the air. It is best to use a fuel Stabilizer like Sta-bil for storage or run the engine completely out of fuel.
Your symptoms are a clogged main jet. you can probably get away with a quick 5 minute clean. With the carb attached: pull the bottom cover and diaphragm. Remove the H high needle on the side and spray carb cleaner
sixtyfiveford 1 year ago
@EddieGoregor.......... Through the passage and the bowl area. Reassemble and you should be good. Good Luck.
sixtyfiveford 1 year ago
@sixtyfiveford You took the same words to tell me that local lawn mower shop did when they sold me yet another diaphragm kit. Ethanol destroyed the one I put in 10 months ago. I did try spraying and compressed air, no good! LOL anyhow I really went bad with the S140 this time. After getting it running good again...the drive chain got a little loose during the throw. Almost done, it was throwing less and less. It grind-ed off all the Aluminum sprocket teeth. A steel bike one will do.
EddieGoregor 1 year ago
@EddieGoregor ....There are still gas stations that have refused to conform and have ethanol free gasoline. This website lists some of them (by state); pure-gas.org
sixtyfiveford 1 year ago
Did this same rebuild today before watching the video, had to call Tecumseh tech, was told by them that if the carb body is embossed with and S by the diaphragm then the order is carb body, gasket,diaphragm, cap. with no S it's just the opposite. Also told me the diaphragm goes in with the big metal disc towards the outside of the carb, not towards the carb body.
fatrat440 1 year ago
@fatrat440 .......All Tecumseh diaphragm carbs go Body, Gasket, Diaphragm UNLESS it has an "F" debossed on it then it goes Body, Diaphragm, Gasket. Your Tecumseh Tech is mistaken like 90% of everyone that rebuilds these and has me fix them for fuel starvation. The big metal disk always faces the body of the carb. All of this info is taken from years of experience and of course the Tecumseh Technicians Handbook.
sixtyfiveford 1 year ago
@sixtyfiveford Your right, when he told me this I had misunderstood him. Thought he said "S" not "F" like you stated. Sorry for the confusion.
fatrat440 1 year ago
@fatrat440 Ya its an "F" as far as I've ever read. With F Dia+gasket+ cover Without F Gasket+dia+cover
EddieGoregor 1 year ago
@fatrat440 You can download the Techumseh handbook from them online free! The Technicians handbook and the small carb and engine guide. I got em both from them for the clicking.
EddieGoregor 1 year ago
@EddieGoregor Thanks for the info. Actually did as you said in your vid and got mine running with no leaks, Thanks.
fatrat440 1 year ago
Thanks for posting up the carb rebuild info. It helped me on the one I was working with.... but, was the (hs) welch plug left out on purpose (under the diaphram)? Thanks again for posting.
mardyn
mardyn153 1 year ago
@mardyn153 ...Some Tecumseh diaphragm carbs come without them. But there is another larger passage drilled in the body on the models with them to allow fuel into the chamber.
sixtyfiveford 1 year ago
Where you buy the new diaphram ??
lego6789 1 year ago
@lego6789.....There are several hundred places online or any local mower shop can get it for you.
sixtyfiveford 1 year ago
Well Guess What? Its a "1 Pull" now! Just in time here in Somerset Co. NJ. From the correction of the diaphragm you showed me, to the setting of the screws as per the video. It threw 16 inches of snow for hours, and 10 days later another 8 inches! Only now, after all that I got to replace a bad thrower bearing on the chain side. Not bad for a machine I threw in my back seat (put out on the curb, they gave up!!!) as I drove by. One man's trash...means my back isn't thrown instead of the snow!
EddieGoregor 2 years ago
Wow I can't even begin to tell you how scarce the information is (in print, at various sites) on what you provided with 2 videos! You provided a score of facts that, if you don't know it, and had to search it out (Oh god the "Fix-it" forums!!) you'd be looking on-line for 4 to 6 hours...and still have to "trial and error" it. THANKS
EddieGoregor 2 years ago
I am glad I could help.
sixtyfiveford 2 years ago
I only have 1 question. I always thought "1 turn" of the screw meant that one side of the slot does a 360. your 1 turn looks like a 180. am I wrong again? Like a rule of thumb for screw turns? I'm not criticizing at all. Because I may be wrong (and I try not to be, but it happens!) so look closely at your video unless (Obviously) you already know. I need to reference it forever. Thanks.
KillerGooseFilms4U 2 years ago
awsome video thx a bunch for loading it helped alot
soleslayer91 2 years ago
You are right. 1 turn is 360 degrees. I accidentally only did half turns(talking, making a video and thinking about what to say next I must have been distracted). The carb had already been messed with by the previous owner and I was going to have to fine tune them anyways.
sixtyfiveford 2 years ago
I was only using the technique as a helpful tool for people wanting to rebuild the carbs themselves. As a general rule of thumb the H or high jet gets turned out 1.5 full turns and the L low 1 full turn. This will allow the machine to start and run but tuning for your altitude/fuel will be necessary. BUT if the carb hasn't been played with then resetting the needles to the same they were before should make it run just right.
sixtyfiveford 2 years ago