Just climb and have fun! Stop the bickering of grades and whether it was a route or a problem! hahaha Its something to climb. Just leave it at that. Enjoy climbing...It's F-ing great!
the reason for a sit start in a route is just to give it more dificoult. the new grades,over the alpinistic xI was reached including bouldering sections instead classic moves..
if we're all now wondering about how will the 10a should be,the answer is..in my opinion..something like this project.. sit start 8c+ hiball bolulder linked to a 9b/+route(it could be made of several 8c+ section whith no rests). that's the way guys.10a is a 45 meters roof 9a+ route or a flat flat wall whit crazy dynos..
maybe b/c its longer and requires more endurance, whereas bouldering is suppose to be fewer, individually focused moves. also, it might just have seemed more prestigious to call it a sport climb. i was wondering the same thing.
I just mean that there are no determined lines between bouldering and climbing, and seeing as the guy who put up the route says it's a route, just call it a route and stop arguing.
Kevin Jorgeson would call Ambrosia a boulder problem, despite the that fact it's longer than most indoor gym routes. But we call it a boulder because the founder calls it a boulder.
It's actually a 30 meter route set by Dani Andrada, it was 25 meter, but he created a new sit start for it by linking a v9 boulder problem to Ali Hulk the 5,15A route making it now a 5.15b
It's not a bouldering problem. The difference between bouldering and sport climbing isn't what protection you use (you don't switch to a bouldering grade when you free climb or DWS something that is normally roped), but about length. This is, I believe, a 25 metre climb, much longer than any boulder problem. Also, there are bolts later on when the cave gets higher but I don't know if they are part of this route.
Actually, the reason that you see differences in grade types is because Americans have a different set of grades for route or boulder problem difficulty. For roped routes we typically use the yosemite decimal system ie 5.11a, 5.13d etc & for bouldering we use the V scale ie V5, V11, V14 etc. It was invented by John Sherman in 1989. Nicknamed Sherman the Vermin, the V scale was originally a joke but caught on. However, in Europe the grading system is the Fountainbleau scale ie 7a, 9a+ etc.
@jmorela1 Actually this is a common misconception. In Europe there are two grading scales as well, they just use the same numbers. The Font scale and the french grade scale are different. The highest you'll find in the font scale is 8c+ which is v16, but you can't say that an 8c+boulder is equal to an 8c+ route, 5.14c, because they are different scales. There are plenty more people climbing 5.14c than there are climbing v16. So these scales are actually different.
@pdxmirage-Correction taken. To address the concerns above, if it is a route then the alpha numeric is lower case 9a or 8b+ typically. If it is a Font grade (ie bouldering grade) then often times the alpha numeric is capitalized to indicate that it is a bouldering grade as opposed to a route grade ie 8A or 7b+. Does that sound about right pdxmirage? After all, I only know this for certain, that I will probably never climb hard enough for the difference to be that profound to me. :-)
He already sent it (june 07). Dani Andrada also sent the sit start extentsion, he gave it 9b/5.15b.
Quote dave graham: "The V14 low start to the Ali-Hulk is something not to fuck with, very hard. It makes that 5.15c at the least, and one might say, damn!
photoshop
thtsritesun1212 1 year ago
Magnus Midtbø sent this route now in aug 2010, finally with sitstart and extension 9b.
Vertikal1000 1 year ago
Hey man! This is a 5.15b! It's one of the hardest routes in the world.
cekjord 1 year ago
I'd love to see a fat person doing that.
He sets unrealistic body images for rock climbers ;P
pppaulo1 1 year ago
@pppaulo1 hahahah fatty
CzarThePlezer 9 months ago
damn i was hopin he would do the middle finger pocket like dani does on dosage 5
tifa300 1 year ago
El secarruto no se menea
Nicolaskas 2 years ago
Just climb and have fun! Stop the bickering of grades and whether it was a route or a problem! hahaha Its something to climb. Just leave it at that. Enjoy climbing...It's F-ing great!
ewokscanclimb2 2 years ago 5
the reason for a sit start in a route is just to give it more dificoult. the new grades,over the alpinistic xI was reached including bouldering sections instead classic moves..
if we're all now wondering about how will the 10a should be,the answer is..in my opinion..something like this project.. sit start 8c+ hiball bolulder linked to a 9b/+route(it could be made of several 8c+ section whith no rests). that's the way guys.10a is a 45 meters roof 9a+ route or a flat flat wall whit crazy dynos..
A2Rclimbing 2 years ago
Dani is with him :)
EinbeinigerLee 2 years ago
I HATE WMG!
flagshipzurigo 2 years ago 20
Fuck the WMG... assholes can't stay out of other peoples business.
DedyPhlincke 2 years ago 26
its a route, basically there are many high ball problems out there that could very well be protected and could be givin a sport route rating
bxrockstar 2 years ago
II am the master of my own world! <3
konsepti 3 years ago 5
Is there anyone who can tell me what is the source of this video?
I think It comes from DVD.
zehi4u 3 years ago
there's bits of dave trying ali hulk in Dosage V, but i don't think it's the same footage
jimbo9203 2 years ago
ali Hulk is 9B ... that's what i know
rockvanisher 3 years ago 2
The sit-start extension is, yes. De Pie is "only" 9a.
olander0808 2 years ago
first he climb boulder 7c 0:14-1:13...i climb this boulder:)
732640264 3 years ago
this is a boulder problem
khnfence 3 years ago
erm isnt this a boulder problem?
it has a sit start extension,how many routes start from sitting?
beastofackworth 3 years ago
good question. when does a boulder become a route? Still incredible though.
boxsterwelby 3 years ago
maybe b/c its longer and requires more endurance, whereas bouldering is suppose to be fewer, individually focused moves. also, it might just have seemed more prestigious to call it a sport climb. i was wondering the same thing.
laxman9677 3 years ago
its bouldering...hence the boulder pads and lack of rope. Do u call highball problems routes? no
Hogi1634 3 years ago
Dani says it a route, so it's a fuckin route. leave it alone and be inspired.
fackinjacksack 2 years ago 2
I think these are legitimate questions to ask.
lopside0 2 years ago
I just mean that there are no determined lines between bouldering and climbing, and seeing as the guy who put up the route says it's a route, just call it a route and stop arguing.
Kevin Jorgeson would call Ambrosia a boulder problem, despite the that fact it's longer than most indoor gym routes. But we call it a boulder because the founder calls it a boulder.
fackinjacksack 2 years ago 4
Dani says fackinjacksack should jump off a bridge, leave it alone and just jump
rimjabba650 1 year ago
in which dvd can i find this video?
SiihNikte 3 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
IM FREAKIN HORNY!
some1 should msg me if they wnat 2 cybr. Vb
anthony2123 3 years ago
great fucking song man!
Lifesucksdie123 3 years ago
Ali Hulk is 9b (5.15b)
TatankaIXc 3 years ago
with the sit-start
enfingret 3 years ago
And the extension :-)
Kauzman01 3 years ago
music = unnecessary
yeshwandas 3 years ago 2
why
doublee10 3 years ago
???
iamastomata 3 years ago
cruising that
xbelafontex 3 years ago
what are the elements that make up the grade of a route??
iamastomata 3 years ago
google yds
doublee10 3 years ago
lol. not usually music u put in a climbing video put other than that its a good video
trueclimber1 3 years ago
U2 i think
dennis1802 3 years ago
who does that song man, who does the song?
Lifesucksdie123 3 years ago
'Get What You Give' by The New Radicals
sweatfootm 3 years ago
band called the new radicals. song is get what u give
ermarauder 3 years ago
Awesome!!!! was this the V9 start or is there no protection?
Sharma17 3 years ago
It's actually a 30 meter route set by Dani Andrada, it was 25 meter, but he created a new sit start for it by linking a v9 boulder problem to Ali Hulk the 5,15A route making it now a 5.15b
burton33ti 3 years ago
Question: If it's a bouldering problem, why is it 5.14d and not V something?
ClimbaRock5 4 years ago
It's not a bouldering problem. The difference between bouldering and sport climbing isn't what protection you use (you don't switch to a bouldering grade when you free climb or DWS something that is normally roped), but about length. This is, I believe, a 25 metre climb, much longer than any boulder problem. Also, there are bolts later on when the cave gets higher but I don't know if they are part of this route.
thefox31 4 years ago
Actually, the reason that you see differences in grade types is because Americans have a different set of grades for route or boulder problem difficulty. For roped routes we typically use the yosemite decimal system ie 5.11a, 5.13d etc & for bouldering we use the V scale ie V5, V11, V14 etc. It was invented by John Sherman in 1989. Nicknamed Sherman the Vermin, the V scale was originally a joke but caught on. However, in Europe the grading system is the Fountainbleau scale ie 7a, 9a+ etc.
jmorela1 2 years ago
@jmorela1 Actually this is a common misconception. In Europe there are two grading scales as well, they just use the same numbers. The Font scale and the french grade scale are different. The highest you'll find in the font scale is 8c+ which is v16, but you can't say that an 8c+boulder is equal to an 8c+ route, 5.14c, because they are different scales. There are plenty more people climbing 5.14c than there are climbing v16. So these scales are actually different.
pdxmirage 1 year ago
@pdxmirage-Correction taken. To address the concerns above, if it is a route then the alpha numeric is lower case 9a or 8b+ typically. If it is a Font grade (ie bouldering grade) then often times the alpha numeric is capitalized to indicate that it is a bouldering grade as opposed to a route grade ie 8A or 7b+. Does that sound about right pdxmirage? After all, I only know this for certain, that I will probably never climb hard enough for the difference to be that profound to me. :-)
jmorela1 1 year ago
@jmorela1 That sounds just fantastic. :) Yea, and i'm sure i'll never climb that hard either lol.
pdxmirage 1 year ago
good God, his style is completely insane and beautiful all at once.
moosmann12020 4 years ago 3
does anyone know what the name of the song is??
enfingret 4 years ago
The song is "You get what you give" by the New Radicals
coltleader 4 years ago
Was he wearing the Evolv Talon's? I thought he was sponsored by 5.10. Anyone know?
shadowskillet14 4 years ago
Thoes are 5.10 shoes. They're the v10 model
coltleader 4 years ago
Ah, you're right. Thanks, man.
shadowskillet14 4 years ago
i'm glad it's insane to climb such roofs...
so i got an good excuse.
good job dave!!!
Eldarondilion 4 years ago
He already sent it (june 07). Dani Andrada also sent the sit start extentsion, he gave it 9b/5.15b.
Quote dave graham: "The V14 low start to the Ali-Hulk is something not to fuck with, very hard. It makes that 5.15c at the least, and one might say, damn!
peetanui 4 years ago
he will do it ... :>
very nice video, ty !
... the es pontas video of sharma is gone :/
anarx 4 years ago
I guess he need more bicep for this one :)
UniSaarland 4 years ago
Thanks a lot for posting this vid. I was hoping i could see the beginning for the second 15b.
treebierd 4 years ago