@zloben9000 might have a seized link or a bent sprocket tooth or ???. After lubing the chain try to wiggle every link to see that they are all loose. If you find a tight one work out the kink. If that doesn't work check all the sprocket teeth. Failing that you might have to bring it in. Good luck.
are you for real? there are way BETTER ways to lean a bike chain. you should use a chain scrubber (Parks or Finish Line both work well) they also make a special brush & pick tool for cleaning in-between the sprockets, if you'd rather not use the scrubber I know Finish Line makes the Grunge Brush (which I'm about to buy)
Finally a video without obnoxious music while the instructor is talking, thank you. I disagree with dribbling lube on the whole chain while running, the best method is to put a drop on each pivot point, that way the lube really gets in there. Yes, takes a little longer but is more effective and doesn't waste lubricant.
@IWscrewedCo just reread your question. Sometimes a new chain will not match up with your old cassette. I would play with the main derailuer adjustment/cable and the fine tuners, if necessary. Failing that, you should take it to a bike shop for a closer look. (Hate to say it) you may need a new cassette. -Dan
@IWscrewedCoDMW2 how many miles are on the chain and rear cassette? They could need replacing or you may just need to adjust the deraileur. Your local bike shop should be able to do the adjustments or determine if you need new parts for not much $. A new chain is about $20 & a new cassette costs more than that and can really range in price. Good luck!
@pdxktv I changed the Chain and the Cassette, indeed, it was badly doned. Though i forgot Changing Chain Rings. I have Truvativ Hussefelt 22/32/bash guard, Howitzer Spline BB, though i can't find the Chain Rings for it. Could you tell me where to find em' ? i found none on the website. Just the Whole Crank Set which includes them. but it is 82$ and don't have that much to waste just to replace C.Rings
For now, here is how to deal with that kind of problem:
First, use a lot of lube. Then manipulate it back and forth until you've worked out the hardness - careful, though, it could make a mess all over you.
i hada bike over 10+years, never lubed chain, never cleaned it. the bikes still fine now after 15 years excpet for a puncture i cant be bothered to repair
You can put a chain through hell and it will last a while, but you'd be surprised how much power a crusty chain and joints can rob from you. Clean and lube the chain and you will waste a whole lot less energy.
you know, I'd say replacing a chain every 3 months is a good approximation for me at least. I commute every day for 2x 15 minutes, and usually after a few months or so my chain starts skipping all over the place, some gears become unusable and it gets downright dangerous to put pressure on it (almost killed myself when I was at highspeed putting too much pressure on the chain and it skipped).
no too much lube means ur bike will jst get more grity then what u started with. plus u hardly even cleaned that chain and that cleaner probly didnt even make a difference, it was just the cloth picking up grease that isnt anywhere near the pivit interior. basicallly making this a big ol waste of time
or remove chain, scrub with varsol or gasoline then let chain sit in either solvent for 2 hours. then take the chain out rinse it off with water and let it dry in the sun then then throw it back on and lube it up. by far the best way to totally remove any grit from each link. just try it and try to find one link that makes a grinding sound cuz u wont. plus my ways cheaper and more conveinent if u live in the boonies like i do :D
That method isn't practical for most people who ride their bike a lot and taking off a chain everyday is unnecessary. I backpedal mine with simple green after each ride, and use a lube that practically dries over night and reduces excess grit that would cling to other types of lube. Living in Hilo, Hawaii, the rainiest city in the united states, cleaning my chain every day is a must.
yeh it duz take a while but if u jst do this for like after a certain milage or after a reallly mucky or dusty ride or before/ after a season its a great way to start off with a totally clean chain. doing this every day would be pretty annoyng like u said. ur method is perfect for in bewtween
Keep in mind, the more you do bike maintenance, the faster at it you become. So if you took off your chain more regularly, you'd get good at doing it.
My bike has quick release nuts on front and back, so there's no reason for me not to tackle this more often.
I noticed that he aint clean the rear deraileur 'cassette'. Suppose there were dirt and sticky grime on both the front and rear deraileur 'cassette' cogs and he only succeeded in cleaning only the chain, wont this dirt be re - transfered to the chain (during gear changings) in addition to more dirt and grit the newly added lubricant will attract during usage? Maybe I am wrong.
Check out the chain cleaner systems that are on the market, such as the Park Tool Cyclone. You may be skeptical upon first seeing this contraption, but seriously.. ask around.. anyone who uses one loves it, including myself.
You fill it with non-toxic all natural citrus cleaner, snap it around your chain, then just backpedal the chain a couple times through it. It is truly amazing how clean your chain becomes.
I like how at the end he said "Just remember there are many tools out there" You are right! I saw a couple in this video! Keep on yanking your chain boys!
I cleaned my chain today. The methods in this video take off most of the gunk on the OUTSIDE of the chain.
I then took the chain off. INSIDE the holes in the chain was a nasty paste of dirt. To remove that, I cut a few strips of cotton off an old T-shirt (1/2 inch x 10 inches) and forced a strip through each hole in the chain. That took about an hour, but removed the nasty paste of muck inside the holes.
I then put the chain back on the bike and applied a bit of oil, plus WD40.
WD40 and other heavy oils accually trap the dirt. This oil and grit combo eats your chain. Specialty lubes leave a much thiner film that cuts down on grit retention.
Any specialty bike chain, especially all dry lubes, are good. They don't cluster dirt because theyre very viscous so theres just a minute film on the chain, hence the name "dry" lube.
In conclusion: I've not met any other people yet who use hand cleaner this way. I've used it for 25 years to clean almost anthing: brushed stainless from fingerprints, chrome, leather, wall switchplates, grease stains on fabric before laundering, restoring antique varnish finishes (rub gently with 4/0 steel wool). Clean plastics, bike and car paint, etc.
Go Jo and its equivalents harm practically nothing. They are very slick and good cleaners, very cheap,
He's only cleaning the outside of the chain - not the inside, where the rollers are and inside the links. That's where the grime is that causes the problems. Please correct me if I'm wrong but you need to clean *all* the gunk from inside, especially if you're riding through winter. All he did was clean the outside of the links and then re-lube.
That's just putting lube on top of the lube and grime that's already there.
I used to take the chain off and scrub it with a brush and some degreaser. That's a bit high maintenance.
Now I put the chain in an empty coke bottle, pour in some degreaser, shake & leave for a while. Then
take it out (or cut it out of the bottle) & rinse it, hang it to dry, then put it back on the bike & re-lube.
It's minimum hassle and very effective. I guess the only way to clean it effectively while it's on the bike is to use one of those specialist cleaning gadgets.
Too much lube. He used tri-flow as a lube. It's super heavy, attracts dirt, and will add to build up that his "simple green rag" can't touch. How about suggesting a lighter lube such as Pro-link that actually will never build up? I can bet you good money that this guy doens't lube HIS chain with tri-flow.
Doing such a poor job cleaning a chain and then drenching the drivetrain in oil will only accelerate wear and shorten the chain life. No wonder he recommends replacing the chain so often.
Many chains now have quick-release links that will allow easy removal. You can then place it in a soda bottle with some mineral oil or your favorite solvent. Give it a few good shakes, remove the chain, and wipe. Then _lightly_ oil the chain while it is still off the bike and then wipe off any excess oil.
thumbs up if you put how to get a knot out of a chain and it brung you here
bradcoking 1 month ago 2
LOL @ 1:42 Awkward moment?
1997LT1Camaro 4 months ago
MY CHAIN CLICKS AT EVERY WHEEL REVOLUTION OR SO.. ONLY WHEN I PEDAL, NO CLICK OTHERWISE
zloben9000 8 months ago in playlist bicycle
@zloben9000 might have a seized link or a bent sprocket tooth or ???. After lubing the chain try to wiggle every link to see that they are all loose. If you find a tight one work out the kink. If that doesn't work check all the sprocket teeth. Failing that you might have to bring it in. Good luck.
pdxktv 8 months ago
are you for real? there are way BETTER ways to lean a bike chain. you should use a chain scrubber (Parks or Finish Line both work well) they also make a special brush & pick tool for cleaning in-between the sprockets, if you'd rather not use the scrubber I know Finish Line makes the Grunge Brush (which I'm about to buy)
aodhanof90 9 months ago
Finally a video without obnoxious music while the instructor is talking, thank you. I disagree with dribbling lube on the whole chain while running, the best method is to put a drop on each pivot point, that way the lube really gets in there. Yes, takes a little longer but is more effective and doesn't waste lubricant.
jsblgb65 1 year ago
hi,PLEASE HELP ME!
my chain on my bike came out and i cant frickin put it back cuz IDK how!
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
ITS A FRICKIN NIGHTMARE!!!!!!!!
JuStInBiEbErR0CKS 1 year ago
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topboxmedia 1 year ago
@IWscrewedCo just reread your question. Sometimes a new chain will not match up with your old cassette. I would play with the main derailuer adjustment/cable and the fine tuners, if necessary. Failing that, you should take it to a bike shop for a closer look. (Hate to say it) you may need a new cassette. -Dan
pdxktv 1 year ago
@IWscrewedCoDMW2 how many miles are on the chain and rear cassette? They could need replacing or you may just need to adjust the deraileur. Your local bike shop should be able to do the adjustments or determine if you need new parts for not much $. A new chain is about $20 & a new cassette costs more than that and can really range in price. Good luck!
pdxktv 1 year ago
@pdxktv I changed the Chain and the Cassette, indeed, it was badly doned. Though i forgot Changing Chain Rings. I have Truvativ Hussefelt 22/32/bash guard, Howitzer Spline BB, though i can't find the Chain Rings for it. Could you tell me where to find em' ? i found none on the website. Just the Whole Crank Set which includes them. but it is 82$ and don't have that much to waste just to replace C.Rings
IWscrewedCoDMW2 1 year ago
@IWscrewedCoDMW2 shoot, have no idea. You should get it to a good/creative mechanic.
pdxktv 1 year ago
Do you want to know THE WORLD'S SIMPLEST TRANSMISSION for Bicycle?
Watch: UNIQUE BIKE CRANK ( 2- SPEED)
died4hislove 1 year ago
he looks like bruno except with brown hair lol
david050196 2 years ago 2
haha
Michaelafi42 2 years ago
Great video! Can't wait to try that on my own bike. So simple, but I never would have thought of it.
jhege 2 years ago
i knotted my chain somehow trying to find a video on how to undo a knot
bplaya306 2 years ago 4
That's a GREAT idea for a video.
For now, here is how to deal with that kind of problem:
First, use a lot of lube. Then manipulate it back and forth until you've worked out the hardness - careful, though, it could make a mess all over you.
Good luck and have fun!
pdxktv 2 years ago
That just doesnt sound right..lmao....but thanks
bplaya306 2 years ago
@pdxktv 0_0 are we still talking about a chain
jimmy202500 1 year ago
it aint that hard
jabahoba 2 years ago
when i pedal my chain keeps skipping its a brand new bike and has not been in wet weathers becuase it has been indoors i dunno whats wrong with it.
matt2k6wales 2 years ago
"and don't forget to crank my chain" hah! thanks this was nice and simple
cyhayward 2 years ago
chains are tougher than you think
AeonX7 2 years ago
i hada bike over 10+years, never lubed chain, never cleaned it. the bikes still fine now after 15 years excpet for a puncture i cant be bothered to repair
mitzibishi 2 years ago 6
Exactly. With some maintenance I put a lot of miles and miles commuting through all weathers... And it's still going.
Perhaps the chains they make these days are just crap... I dunno.. having to replace the chain every 3 months? right....
PillowcaseHead 2 years ago
You can put a chain through hell and it will last a while, but you'd be surprised how much power a crusty chain and joints can rob from you. Clean and lube the chain and you will waste a whole lot less energy.
squirmychipmunk9 2 years ago
That's common sense. We're addressing the exaggerated replacement times of chains as put forth in this video.
PillowcaseHead 2 years ago
you know, I'd say replacing a chain every 3 months is a good approximation for me at least. I commute every day for 2x 15 minutes, and usually after a few months or so my chain starts skipping all over the place, some gears become unusable and it gets downright dangerous to put pressure on it (almost killed myself when I was at highspeed putting too much pressure on the chain and it skipped).
berserker567 2 years ago
15 years and only 1 puncture.. you dont ride much then.
fusionstar916 1 year ago
@fusionstar916 yeah no shit dude who does this guy think he is
Matheastube 9 months ago
@mitzibishi Has it been in your shed for 10plus years? That might explain it.
deadlybuzz 9 months ago
no too much lube means ur bike will jst get more grity then what u started with. plus u hardly even cleaned that chain and that cleaner probly didnt even make a difference, it was just the cloth picking up grease that isnt anywhere near the pivit interior. basicallly making this a big ol waste of time
colterczyruk 2 years ago
or remove chain, scrub with varsol or gasoline then let chain sit in either solvent for 2 hours. then take the chain out rinse it off with water and let it dry in the sun then then throw it back on and lube it up. by far the best way to totally remove any grit from each link. just try it and try to find one link that makes a grinding sound cuz u wont. plus my ways cheaper and more conveinent if u live in the boonies like i do :D
colterczyruk 2 years ago
That method isn't practical for most people who ride their bike a lot and taking off a chain everyday is unnecessary. I backpedal mine with simple green after each ride, and use a lube that practically dries over night and reduces excess grit that would cling to other types of lube. Living in Hilo, Hawaii, the rainiest city in the united states, cleaning my chain every day is a must.
LJlovesleaves 2 years ago
yeh it duz take a while but if u jst do this for like after a certain milage or after a reallly mucky or dusty ride or before/ after a season its a great way to start off with a totally clean chain. doing this every day would be pretty annoyng like u said. ur method is perfect for in bewtween
colterczyruk 2 years ago
Keep in mind, the more you do bike maintenance, the faster at it you become. So if you took off your chain more regularly, you'd get good at doing it.
My bike has quick release nuts on front and back, so there's no reason for me not to tackle this more often.
PillowcaseHead 2 years ago
Why does the crank my chain guy have Anton Chigurh's haircut?
martyR13 2 years ago
First thing I thought of when I started this. Expect to see him shoot someone in the head with a bolt gun.
christianfx 2 years ago
Since you're only back-pedaling on the bike, isn't the bike stand unnecessary?
Diminishedshred 2 years ago 2
it's still necessary if you don't want to hold your bike up while doing the oiling... One hand to hold the bottle and one to back-pedal...
Zboss657 2 years ago
that chain is not clean.
Ghostkid202 2 years ago
I noticed that he aint clean the rear deraileur 'cassette'. Suppose there were dirt and sticky grime on both the front and rear deraileur 'cassette' cogs and he only succeeded in cleaning only the chain, wont this dirt be re - transfered to the chain (during gear changings) in addition to more dirt and grit the newly added lubricant will attract during usage? Maybe I am wrong.
7olusegun 3 years ago 3
I think you make a good point.
pdxktv 3 years ago
when u lubricate ur chain wont more dirt stick to the chain?
purepker70 3 years ago
yes. That is why cleaning it is so important especially in wet weather. But the chain still has to be lubricated.
pdxktv 3 years ago
ohh ok thx :D
purepker70 3 years ago
LMAO COCKY BATSARD CRANK MY CHAIN
mxjoe19 3 years ago
Check out the chain cleaner systems that are on the market, such as the Park Tool Cyclone. You may be skeptical upon first seeing this contraption, but seriously.. ask around.. anyone who uses one loves it, including myself.
You fill it with non-toxic all natural citrus cleaner, snap it around your chain, then just backpedal the chain a couple times through it. It is truly amazing how clean your chain becomes.
cstubing 3 years ago
I like how at the end he said "Just remember there are many tools out there" You are right! I saw a couple in this video! Keep on yanking your chain boys!
youstupidmoron 3 years ago
Very informative video! But seriously, don't smoke weed before you do the editing. I know how you Portland people do.
dankreek 3 years ago
Pass the dutchie and "do it better"!
pdxktv 3 years ago
Love the editing, or lack thereof!!
avdo4u 3 years ago
lol.
I cleaned my chain today. The methods in this video take off most of the gunk on the OUTSIDE of the chain.
I then took the chain off. INSIDE the holes in the chain was a nasty paste of dirt. To remove that, I cut a few strips of cotton off an old T-shirt (1/2 inch x 10 inches) and forced a strip through each hole in the chain. That took about an hour, but removed the nasty paste of muck inside the holes.
I then put the chain back on the bike and applied a bit of oil, plus WD40.
VeniVidi 3 years ago
WD40 is bad for bike chains, it removes the oil. Don't take my word for it check the internet it is well documented.
hodsgod 3 years ago
I take your word for it. So what is better to use?
VeniVidi 3 years ago
Why did he say avoid WD40?
VeniVidi 3 years ago
because bike shops want you to buy lubes from them
freeride421 3 years ago
Check out this video if you want to see why NOT to use wd40 on your bike chain
youtube(dot)com(slash)watch?v=vKttTgD8N_Q
pdxktv 3 years ago
WD40 and other heavy oils accually trap the dirt. This oil and grit combo eats your chain. Specialty lubes leave a much thiner film that cuts down on grit retention.
vipero00 3 years ago
Thanks.
VeniVidi 3 years ago
Any specialty bike chain, especially all dry lubes, are good. They don't cluster dirt because theyre very viscous so theres just a minute film on the chain, hence the name "dry" lube.
paucceri 3 years ago
any1 know about gisa or gisu gears? they came on my sierra bike.
yourgravedigger 3 years ago
I favor Go Jo or any other similar white creme hand cleaner.
A brush and gobs of this efficient de-gunker applied to the chain and gears will remove all the dirt, including inside the rollers.
Finish with a hard spray with the garden hose.
Blow dry with compressed air if you have it,
then apply a water displacing lubricant of your choice---I like the solvent borne waxes.
This cleaner, Go Jo or other brands (not the pumice versions, please) are excellent cleaners, good for many cleaning jobs.
reidsteam 3 years ago
In conclusion: I've not met any other people yet who use hand cleaner this way. I've used it for 25 years to clean almost anthing: brushed stainless from fingerprints, chrome, leather, wall switchplates, grease stains on fabric before laundering, restoring antique varnish finishes (rub gently with 4/0 steel wool). Clean plastics, bike and car paint, etc.
Go Jo and its equivalents harm practically nothing. They are very slick and good cleaners, very cheap,
"not just for hands", Go Jo
reidsteam 3 years ago
if Go Jo is so efficient, why does it take gobs of it to be effective?
dukenthaylor 2 years ago
What's the cleaner - "a simple green?.. cream?" what?
gusk71 4 years ago
Are you the killer from "No Country For Old Men"?
schulwitz 4 years ago 28
LMAO
DicksLikeJesus 4 years ago
Yes, it's true. Now call it. Heads or tails.
pdxktv 3 years ago
Were is Rivercity Bicycles located?
ILubJDM 4 years ago
Portland, OR - Google them for the address and map!
BicycleTutor 4 years ago
He's only cleaning the outside of the chain - not the inside, where the rollers are and inside the links. That's where the grime is that causes the problems. Please correct me if I'm wrong but you need to clean *all* the gunk from inside, especially if you're riding through winter. All he did was clean the outside of the links and then re-lube.
That's just putting lube on top of the lube and grime that's already there.
greencalx321 4 years ago 2
Thanks for your comment and your point well taken.
I think it may be time for a part two on more thorough chain maintenance, cleaning and lube options.
In the meantime, could you please elaborate on your personal procedure to clean the inside of the rollers and links.
Regards,
Dan
pdxktv 4 years ago
Hi there,
I used to take the chain off and scrub it with a brush and some degreaser. That's a bit high maintenance.
Now I put the chain in an empty coke bottle, pour in some degreaser, shake & leave for a while. Then
take it out (or cut it out of the bottle) & rinse it, hang it to dry, then put it back on the bike & re-lube.
It's minimum hassle and very effective. I guess the only way to clean it effectively while it's on the bike is to use one of those specialist cleaning gadgets.
greencalx321 4 years ago
use muc of chain doc it teks 30 secs
3sdemps 4 years ago
yeah guys, i'm sure he thinks this is the only way to clean a chain.
jeffcycles 4 years ago
nice video. keep it up.
bafmd 4 years ago
im wondering if his technique will still work if i dont shake my lube bottle as he instructed.
keystone350 4 years ago
I don't know with Tri-flow. But you must shake white lighting and other lubes vigerously before use. Think vinegar and oil salad dressing.
pdxktv 4 years ago
what lubricant did u use?
Ducksuce3612 4 years ago
He used tri-flow. I usually use white-lightning.
pdxktv 4 years ago
WD40 is a penetrant and repeated use will cause it to displace the lubricant inside the chain links themselves, greatly accelerating chain wear.
rizztest 4 years ago
whats wrong with WD40? ive been using it on loads of bikes for years and never had to buy a new chain!
mk2passat 4 years ago
Too much lube. He used tri-flow as a lube. It's super heavy, attracts dirt, and will add to build up that his "simple green rag" can't touch. How about suggesting a lighter lube such as Pro-link that actually will never build up? I can bet you good money that this guy doens't lube HIS chain with tri-flow.
christianwp 4 years ago
Doing such a poor job cleaning a chain and then drenching the drivetrain in oil will only accelerate wear and shorten the chain life. No wonder he recommends replacing the chain so often.
Many chains now have quick-release links that will allow easy removal. You can then place it in a soda bottle with some mineral oil or your favorite solvent. Give it a few good shakes, remove the chain, and wipe. Then _lightly_ oil the chain while it is still off the bike and then wipe off any excess oil.
oschwald 4 years ago
nice one thx for posting.
hiddenfall 4 years ago
Very good video. Very useful for anyone who owns a bike. Thanks for posting it!
ReallyCool32 4 years ago