Added: 3 years ago
From: johnhtodd
Views: 20,084
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  • johntodd, got my 195 running and took another look at your set-up for ideas. How has it worked out for you? I have the stock radiator and plan an external replacement made from a new heat-exchanger radiator I found in a Grainger dumpster. I am interested in your top plate and radiator necks. Could you share some details on materials and construction? Do you have a oil pressure gauge in it? I have a Murphy SwitchGauge and prolly tap the oil line?

  • In retrospect, I'd probably have made the base wider, since the head of the Changfa makes it prone to tipping during moving. It's fine when in a fixed position, but I often move this around on wheeled carts, and a push in the wrong spot makes it lurch over. 800 pounds of engine and generator head is not something you want falling on your foot. So I'd say make the base about 1 foot wider to put more footprint under the head

  • @johnhtodd Excellent, Nice, Clean, Sweet Set-Up! Building This for What It is a Labor of LOVE & Instruction & Encouragement for Someone Older But Behind You Quite a Ways. I Enjoyed Every Bit & Appreciate Every Last Part of This Video & Want to THANK You for 'Letting Us See & Hear!"

    Thanks JohnTodd

  • chinese junk, ha

  • I see you post about a lister Ce

    I just got my hands on a 16/2 Lister CE ser. # N-10303

    Did you find any parts or Books

    Thanks Jeff

    Nice set up withe the st generator

    Will be runing my lister on WVO

  • @mytickets Sorry, I just noticed this reply. You got a 16/2 CE? Very nice. I ran into a guy here in the OR/WA area who has (now) two CD's - I sold him my Lister-Blackstone CD. I found books with some frequency on eBay after I set up a permanent "notify me" search for keywords.

  • any tips on shaft alignment. I was hoping a dainty straight edge would do the trick on my similar project.

  • I hung the generator head from a cherry picker, and lined it up carefully, and then made sure that all the metal surfaces were clean and straight when I welded the mounts up after measurements. There is a tiny bit (1 degree?) of offset, but that shaft coupling is designed to take up a bit of mis-alignment. See the McMaster-Carr catalog for those shaft couplers.

  • Nice vid, I've got the same eng and gen, Been panning on assembling them belt style with a radiator, but I like how compact it is with the direct coupling. I've read about the couplings wearing out with the big singles, any probs?

  • thanks a small engine what is the maximum KVA POWER output does it produce ?

    Do it run well under a full load ?

    Has anyone coverted one of these engines to run on biogas ?

  • Why did you go to external radiator? Is the stock one just not up to the job? Is your top block-off plate custom, and, if so, how did you make it? Will be cranking mine up today for a test run.

  • They are notorious for having bad internal radiators.

  • An excellent video..!! I'd appreciate your informed, unbiased opinion on the following:

    Please tell me whether it is better to run the engine at 1500 rpm & directly couple it with the alternator(like its done in the video), or couple the engine to the alternator with belts such that the engine runs at its rated rpm(2000-2200) & the alternator runs at 1500 rpm(using suitaple pulleys)

    One feels that the maximum output of the engine is not utilized, by running it at 1500 rpm.

  • It depends on what you value the most. If you value energy output, then a pulley system would probably be best, as you can run at 2200RPM and get the extra horsepower, even though you lose some energy with the friction of the pulley/belt. If you value simplicity and longevity more, then the lower-speed direct coupling makes more sense. Engines run longer with less need for repair at lower RPM. PS: The coupled speed is 1800, not 1500 (at least here in North America, where I need 60hz.)

  • Thanks John!! ....also for correcting me about the coupled speed!!

  • Nice job! I've been seeing the 195's with external radiators with BOTH inlet and outlet on TOP of the engine. Shouldn't one hose be down low on the block to create a thermo-siphon flow? Hot goes out top, get cooled by radiator, then flows back into the lower engine to cool it. The draincock on the lower side is ideal, but needs to be enlarged to 3/4" for better flow.

  • There is a tube on the inside of the plate on the return hose that takes the cooled water down to the bottom of the engine cooling jacket.

  • Brilliant! That's going to save me a LOT of time reaming out the side hole. Thanks!

  • John,

    I want to use an external water pump, belt driven from the engine, to force the coolant circulation and also belt driven fan on the radiator.

    Would you suggest the coolant circuit to remain the same as used in the video, or do you think, Toolmanforever's idea for coolant flow is better.

    The weather in India is very HOT..

    Awaiting your valuable comments..!!

  • If you have the tools to do it, I'd say you should try toolmanforever's idea. The worst that happens is that you have to thread it and put in a plug. There is very low pressure in the system (ideally, no pressure) so you could probably even just use high-temperature silicone sealant to fix any problems.

  • 'nice job' all around!!

  • nice job! can't get that engine here in the states?

  • I've still seen the Changfa 195-style engines with some frequency on eBay as "new", so somehow they're getting here. I am uncertain if they meet the EPA tier restrictions, though.

    JT

  • Hi, Excellent vid! Well built framework and radiator adaptor! Does it get even louder with a full load on it? I hope you are wearing earplugs due to almost rock concert levels. One of my projects is to assemble one of these. I would like to make mine quieter, so I won't wake everyone up within a 500 ft radius. When I come up with an insulated enclosure I will show it off on 'tube! Again, thanks for posting, and nice application!

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