Added: 1 year ago
From: tiagobaracho
Views: 49,432
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (94)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • pretty sure you would get under a 10 on the ACT but nice video

  • i did this and it helped a lot thnx.

  • the motor will work absolutely fine in the water without a doubt. you just will want to remove the bearings, dry them out, and re-oil them when your finished. this way, there is no water sitting in them to cause rust, and to replace an oil that was washed away by the water.

  • @mikesab221 yeah... sure.. leave for 1 hour salt water inside a bearing and good look re-oiling them...

  • no one do this to your motor! the bearings in the motor have rubber shields that are 99% more air tight than a steel shielded bearing (what he replaced it with.) also, you do not want to put silicone anywhere near the inside of your motor where it will heat up and start stretching, and dticking to every part of your motor and bearings.

  • @mikesab221 Are you drunk ? the motor does not came with rubber bearing and i didn't put silicone inside .....

  • couldn't i just put 1/5 tires on my 1/10 to do this?

  • this will void your warranty do not do this castle creations will send it back to you and you are out 200 dollars

  • thanks for taking the time to help the rest of us I have mine worked out in my head befor the truck gets to me .take care hows that thing on the beach??? paddle tires/

  • and mood

  • ...and my stock in liquid electrical tape will skyrocket! Mwuahaha! Kidding aside, I like what you did with the motor. Less so with the esc.

  • yes.... It is such a pain to actually do maintenance on your vehicle and its bearings. Better to spend time and money to make it so you never have to take it apart again.

  • good work on making the motor waterproof!

  • @itchyundies hahaha ...i paid dearly for this mistake ! :P

  • can you please show us a picture of the inside of the motor, both front and back, because my motr is making a weird clicking sound and i dont really want to open it because i dont really know how they go together

  • @56fletcher @56fletcher , I don't have this picture but i found on google images, search for mamba monster motor inside. The clicking noise maybe from bad ESC.... you may try to spin the motor disconnected of the ESC with a drill or power drill and see what happens...If there is no clicking if can be moisture inside the ESC or bad ESC...

    Hope it helps..

  • Alls you need for motor is a sealed bearing

  • @Negenchance Hi man.. yes it helps a lot... what i find out is that is very hard to find sealed bearing in this size that are really 100% sealed.... thats why i kind of "overdo " the protection to the motor.... I prefer to have all theses barriers .. its nice make modifications.

    Thanks for your comment

  • Awesome video, Well done!

  • omg where did you learn grammar?

  • @BennettLogan23 , if you speak Portuguese, my native language, the same way i speak English, that i never studied in my life ! i would be glad to say that you are so much better than me ! . If i were native in english it could be shameful, but i am not ! and i had no balls to make this video to edit and stuff... i did like in 20 minutes.... didn't revise..... just to TRY to help those people that may have problems with their RCs, But now i know..

  • @BennettLogan23 But now i know that there are a lot of people here looking for grammar classes in my video, not really the content i tried to show ! next time i will revise before uploading !

  • @tiagobaracho i was just hatin,the video is good!

  • Wow, very good job! That will save you a lot of headache in the future.

  • I Like the song haha

  • what about the fan?

  • ive had my momba monster for over a year and a half and it has been fully submerged under water for 24 hours and i only waterproofed the esc.didnt do anything to the motor!!! and its still running very strong!!!

  • @rcmudder1 If you try the same on salt water... the end is near ..... and i run on the beach...

  • @tiagobaracho Not every one lives near the ocean...

  • @rcmudder1 why would you set it under water for 24 hours?

  • Wouldn't it be easier to just clean everything up with corrosion x after water bashing? lol seems like a shit load of work to do all that

  • @zeppelin67637  you can do it... and i am sure you will burn up easily you controller..... and usually those who likes RC also likes to improve, to optimize... and doing so you are adding a long lasting factor to any RC you have..Instead of lot of dust, moisture, salt close or in contact to the circuit, you are keeping it clean...

    For those who have money, just use however you like and buy another when it break... i am just giving an idea about how to protect better

  • What's mood?

  • @daHashshashin  mud mistyped = mood... lol :D

  • thats a lot of work when you could just not drive your truck into a river lol

  • please help. my mamba max is stuck on reverse and slow. its been showing the yellow light only and it wont do that program thing when i turn on the remote. Please Help. Thanks.

  • @grabba73 Look.. are you sure you readio is on 50/50 ? not 30/70 ? If you disconect the cable from MMM to the receiver, it does stop ? Have you checked the setting on the transmitter? If you are using the 2.4 ghz version it does have a menu, you can load the default setting to start over.

  • @tiagobaracho it happened a couple of times. it used to never work on full unless i did that thing with the remote. i got a evader stadium truck with stock remote. the speed control got a fan, but i dont see a eset on it. for now. Thanks

  • @tiagobaracho i paid 225.00 for this thing and it was the biggest pain in the butt i ever seen for the first twn months. every time i turned it on it was weak and i had to do that hold trigger program thing. took like 10 tries every time. now it still is stuck backwards and is like half power. strange.

  • @TheKoolNerd1 No.. its very easy... that liquid tape goes off easily if you use like a nail into it and push. Now i bought stainless steel screws kit , but the idea is nice to any other screws you might have in any RC cars...

  • @TheKoolNerd1 No.. its very easy... that liquid tape goes off easily if you use like a nail into it and push. Now i bought stainless steel screws kit , but the idea is nice to any other screws you might have in any RC cars...

  • Hehe good video. What is the name of the song played?

  • Why have a mamba monster when you can have dual vxl motors?

  • mamba has huge power..... more than enough to my needs and it needs only one ESC.. i am not sure if two vxl would be better....

  • @Tdude909 Why would you ever buy two motors and 2 speed controls when there is something that comes from the factory with one motor/esc that was designed to work together?. If the vtwin is better, why dont they put it on the truck to begin with....?

    Ill give up waterproof gear for excellent performance. mamba setup is tried and proven.

  • @Tdude909 yeah, dual vxl's still doesn't compare to the power of the mamba monster system.

  • @Tdude909 Because they are slower, weaker, less durable, combined weigh more, combined cost more... I can keep going.

  • @abdbaseball12 my bad.... it should be mud.., but i wrote mood, i only knew the sound of the word and mistyped, my first language is portuguese.. lol...

  • @tiagobaracho ooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh lol

  • would your motor still work if you had the esc waterproofed but only ran the motor in snow?

  • @77codster yes... snow will get down the temperature, but it will still be warm/hot running, so, not a problem.

  • have You maybe any heat issue after watherproofing your mamba in hot days?I'm asking about this side of esc where there isnt radiator.

  • I've ran my Savage Flux in Mud, water since I bought it last year and nothing is waterproofed but the ESC, Servo, Batteries. It still runs just as good as when I got it not a sign of rust on my motor. How is that possible?

  • @nyc2norcal motor is aluminum, does not rust.

  • You've covered over all of your screws with plastic, so how are you going to get them out in future?

    Also that's kinda unnessasary as the screws are rust proof anyway, the only reason they might rust is if you scratch them...

  • its not plastic, my friend, its liquid electric tape... its like a Rubber.... you just need to pull of with a small screwdriver and all of this " rubber" will came off.

    And you are completely wrong about the screw rust proof. Its exactly the opposite. On the first run if you wet them you will see the begin to rust in 1 or 2 days.... I already bought a stainless steel screw set and changed all screws.. the stainless are rustproof but the ones that came from traxxas are really not.

  • @tiagobaracho Ok fair enough about the electric tape, but how come the screws on my Revo and E-Revo have never ever rusted, and I drive my E-Revo through huge puddles...

  • @revorocks123 is it stainless steel screws on you e-revo ?.. my e-maxx came with no stainless steel screw. I have here one 1/16 e-revo brand new never used and there are few screws already rusting a little bit..... The screws i removed from the e-maxx to change for stainless steel were like brand new. If you check my other videos you will see that i use my car on the beach, so salt water really help it to rust...

  • @tiagobaracho Nope just the stock screws on mine, although like you said running on beaches will really help rust your screws lol. Good tutorial!

  • Standard rubber sealed bearings are not a good idea in motors.. for one, they have a higher resistance due to the rubber seal, and also, they are not meant for the RPMs you get in a motor. They make special high RPM bearings for that very reason.

  • @Arakon this motor is not high rpm. Its only 2200kv and the bearing is marked as 30k rpm. Other than that, this little bearing seal are not like the seal of big bearings, that touch and press the inner circle of the bearing, the rubber just get very close to the inner cicle but does not press on it..I runned the bearing on a axis before installing and it was running very freely. The guy on the bearing store told me that only on bigger bearing you can find like a spring around the rubber pressing

  • @tiagobaracho i hope you know at 4s lipo top speed of that motor is 32560 rpm and at 6s its 48840 so that bearing is way over rpm

  • Excelente muchas Gracias!!

  • Again, the heat generated by everything on the circuit boards is dissipated by the heat sink. But not all of it, some heat just flows out from all around the circuit board and out of the MMM case. With everything packed in liquid tape, the only escape now is the heat sink. This also may trigger the fan sooner than before to help cool the heat sink which will become hotter, faster than it was before.

  • @mistercrash1964 Again, remember that underneath the ESC, is almos a sealed place to air to flow... then those little SMD parts dissipate almost nothing at all just with that little amount of air. Remember that air dissipates well when it flows.... the rubber creates a solid piece that will heat when the circuit gets hot. Well.. my main idea was to keep it safer than original... My friend lost a MMM because of few drops got inside the ESC and burnt motor and esc....So, i preffer the way i did...

  • If your lucky, your MMM packed with electric tape may not run hotter. Mine did. I had to try it for myself, didn't work that well. So now my MMM is bare, just like it should be. Water ''resistant'' from the factory. Not water proof.

  • @mistercrash1964 About the ESC, if you think, those parts underneath get almost no dissipation by air... because they are very small and there is no air flow there...If any part, like an integrated circuit became very hot, there is no surface on SMD components to dissipate. With the electric tape, the IC is in direct contact with the " rubber" of the electric tape and if it get hot, will transfer heat to this " rubber" that its touching.. then dissipation eve more then with no "rubber"

  • The motor mount is aluminum and it helps dissipate heat from the motor. Heat from the aluminum can of the the motor is transferred to the motor mount and the small fins help dissipate it. By placing a piece of plastic between the motor case and motor mount, you have created a barrier that will prevent the motor mount from absorbing heat away from the motor. A thin aluminum disk would have been better as it would not create a barrier.

  • @mistercrash1964 Well.. a little dissipation may be lost, but i guess it would be very little since the plastic is very thin and still transfer heat... maybe 50%... and if you touch the aluminum mount without the plastic after a run, it does not get much hot, just a little because the inside motor coil is on the lateral of the motor and only a very little thin edge of the motor main chassis touch on the bottom and front cover, then, little transfer of heat. My thermometer showed the same temp

  • im gonna do this to my vxl motor! nice work!

  • @xXShadowRejectsXx yeahh.... you can use the idea to almost all brushless motors... easy on opening up the motor to not bend or break anything.

  • everything seems well done, excetp for the screws(could of just bought a set of aluminum screw)

  • @xDarknest07x ..yes... i bought it... here in my country you cant find parts for RC stiff.. i bought a stainless steel screw set.

  • the rear end of my castle/neu is already factory sealed with a sticker ?

    greets nvt

  • @nvtuning Thats nice... this mamba monster does not have the seal.Thanks for whatching

  • @tiagobaracho

    still a nice how to i used sorta this way to seal my real neu motor (not castle/neu)because those have large hole's in the front

    thumbs up

  • mood=mud

  • yes.. i saw that after i sent the video... i think there are few others erros, but didnt want to do all over again, since i don´t have anymore the project for the video.

  • @tiagobaracho Yeah, but english is a retarded language sometimes. No worries.

  • nice how to but doesn't the liquid tape on the end cover on the motor gets twisted by the bearing that turns

  • HI man.. Look.. it does not twist... if you pay atention, i added a small circle of the same plastic on the back hole and then added the liquid tape... So initialy the bearing is touch the plastics with very small friction , and just after minutes this friction will be gone since the bearing will have just molded the plastic.

    THanks man !

  • @tiagobaracho

    thanks for the fast reply looks realy fast but still water isn't very good for a rc specialy salt water but this will help a hole lot

  • I agree... the hole idea of waterproofing to me is just to clean it under fresh water after i use it. Usualy, just after i run, i use water from 2Liters bottle to remove the sand and apply a cheap oil spray every erey on it... so when i get back home i wash it under water with detergent and a brush to spread... after i finish i user compressed air to dry it, then few minutes of haird dryer, then i use corrosion X on metalic parts. I will buy next month stainless stell screws!

  • I acctually used a lot of Conformal Coating spray specific for electric board direct to the circuit of esc. This by itself made it waterproof... but i waterd to keep it even more secure and used the liquid tape.

  • on the screws you could have just bought the stainless steel screw kit for the e-maxx from rc screws.great video on the waterproofing the mamba's. I have two of them both in 8th scale buggy and truggy.

  • yes.. stainless is my next step... next month i will be in US and i will buy the stainless steel screw kit... I also sprayed a lot of varnish for electric circuits before applying the liquid tape. So if by any means the water get into, there is varnish covering all the circuit....... more waterproof , impossible! Thanks

  • i love it!! nice job!!!

  • Good video! Here's why I chose Corrosion X over liquid electrical tape (as far as the ESC goes) 1. While you do have to repeat the CorX coating once or twice a year, it's invisible, so if it were to burn up, you could still send it in under warranty. Even out of warranty, it can still be sent in to be repaired. If you send in a "liquid taped" ESC to Castle or HPI they'll just tell you they can't work on it.

  • 2. CorrosionX does not insulate so your ESC will not run hotter. With L. Elec Tape you are insulating, increasing the amount of heat retained.

    3. Electrical tape over time can rub off, causing holes that could actually trap water against the PCB.

    Your motor treatment is interesting. I dunk my motor in CorrosionX too so I don't worry about rust, but your method of keeping debris out is a great idea!

  • Hi Man. Thanks for your comment. Look... Here is the truth. Actually when you insulate like i did, it dissipate MORE heat because all circuits surface under the board now is touching the rubber of the liquid tape, so it dissipate heat for a larger amount of "mass" of rubber when it get hot and even dissipates to the plastic of the ESC back cover and the cover is touching the chassis too.

    The air does not circulate on those circuit underneath the heat think, and now i am spreading the heat.

  • other than that, i have tried CorX and i realized that it does go away when in contact with salt water and detergent... and i actually prefer keeping the circuit perfect dry.

    If you do want to remove the liquid tape you can pull it off. I don´t worry with warranty too hehe... i did a good test before doing this.

    I added the liquid tape in many layers keeping all the layers well together with the edges so i am sure it will not rub off because no attrite will happen on the rubber.

  • you can do Cor X plus this idea to the motor, will keep the bearing very safe.

    Nice to talk to you man !

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more