Added: 2 years ago
From: center77
Views: 39,361
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  • It looks so dangerous! thanks for the idea anyway.

  • scary...

    

  • I agree with the radio...lol

  • Not bad. Since us hillbillies don't have a cnc in our basement it be neat to make a homemade duplicator somehow so you could trace neck jigs on the other table to match the wood stock that is being routed.

  • ROFL

  • A pin router with the right cutter and a little jig to keep it flat works like a charm. Gets it perfect to about 98%. After that just a little sanding and a good eye does the trick. Takes about 1/4 of the time this seems to take and does a MUCH cleaner job.

  • i have the same router

  • Mmm not very stable ! your gig is shaking and difficult to making a perfect radius

  • You are correct, the prototype isn't a finished jig. Remember that its purpose was rough cutting, not producing a finished neck. Lately I have switched to hand tools, and my next neck (an archtop neck) won't work in this jig.

  • Why not do a post that tapers on a lathe then simply cut it up the center and drum sand the flats. That would leave plenty of wood block at the end either way. I like the simplicity of this and it can be made more sturdy easily. The rotator mount can be angled to compensate for the graduating width.

  • this is good to remove material, but i always do the final shaping by hand so i can feel exactly how it will turn out. And Willmorrison51's idea would stabilize that seemingly wobbly jig.

  • Yes, I find the neck shaping by hand to be enjoyable lately. My last two necks (bamboo) were shaped with the rasp. So I haven't used the jig lately. I will probably make one for cutting the binding channel.

  • @center77 how did you order your material? I was looking into using bamboo for a couple of projects, I researched and people said talk to flooring company's but when I think of flooring I think of thin wide sheets of wood sorry kind of a newb to this business.

  • I'd like to add one suggestion. Try using drawer slides for the horizontal movement. They can be screwed into a frame that holds them very steady, they are more than strong enough to hold your router, and they are inexpensive. I've made several jigs with them, and they worked well on every one.

    Very cool idea.

  • Thanks, that is a great idea. Lately I have been making necks with a complex radius so I haven't been able to use this jig.

  • great stuff , but i think it would help if you------- dump the legs idea and make a box -same length and height as the neck jig (bit higher ?). make the router plate so it extends over the top of the box , use 2 guides one at the back, c chanel [to take the end section of the router plate ] and a c chanel at the vertical edge [with a guide piece on the bottom of the router plate] the router plate it-self may need reinforcing on the edges -

    ps ,hope i don't sound rude---

  • I made the jig more stable and used it last night but have decided I need to start from scratch and re-design it. Your idea sound really good. I would just need to add 'windows' intp the sides of the box to see what I am doing. I am trying to visualize what you suggested...I will think about it some more. Thanks.

  • Not bad for a prototype. The router base is very unstable and I would think you'd want to lock in the neck and index the rotation on the next version. But I think you're really on to something. Is the shape of your neck half round? What if your shape is a C shape? Thanks for posting this vid

  • You are correct sir, I need to improve the router base. Not sure what you mean by index the rotation. Next time I will take time to make sure the blank is precisely centered. The shape is half round, unless I deliberately move the blank off center. The jig gives me a simple no frills neck. For a complex radius or non-round shape, it would probably be better to drill some guide hole and rasp it down by hand. I am pretty new at this.

  • What I mean by indexing is: a knob with a bolt through the end pieces you're holding so you can spin/adjust the neck, then lock it down so there's no movement at all in the neck, plus it frees up your other hand. I'm also thinking you can angle the neck heal to the peg board so you can have a thicker neck at the heal and thinner at the nut, OR you can create an indexed slope runner for the router base to slide against for the same purpose so the neck is always goes in the same. Pretty cool!!!

  • Good ideas !  Thanks.

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