For just 6psi, you'll be fine with the 7.5" rear end. You may want to consider an LSD of some sort, but then you're talking about money you could put towards an 8.8.
350 is pushing it on the 7.5. If I were you, I'd start looking at places that sell GT take-off rear ends. They're usually pretty cheap, but shipping can get you.
Nope. You're not the only one who asks. My best was 12.5 in Pueblo, CO. I was hoping to break 11s during a trip to Norwalk, OH for a 4.0L Mustang meet... but a sheered axle shaft prevented that (best of a 13.2 that day). Had to drive the whole way home with a howling rear end. :(
Yes. Tom will get you a good price on the pistons and help you choose the best compression ratio for your setup. Word of advice... don't go much lower than stock. 9.0:1 is the lowest I'd go on these cars.
Don't know the size right off hand and it spools between 2500 and 3000 and the only time I took it to the track I didn't have slicks... Spun out for a good second or 2 and ended with a lousy 14.1 1/4 before upgrading the ignition components, the new crank pulley, and welding the pipe work running the length of the car
What kind of tires are you running? Any suspension mods? Other than your 3.73s, I didn't notice any. I would definitely invest in an LCA/UCA upgrade, better rear swaybar, anti-squat brackets, etc... You'd be amazed how much difference a good rear setup will make.
Myself I had the following done to my 7.5" rear: J&M poly-ball UCA & LCAs, CHE alum panhard bar, CHE antisquat brackets, CHE axle brace, T/A alum girdle with bearing cap studs. I eventually broke the 7.5" though :)
Not saying you're lying... just astounded. I'm one of the original members at the Mustang Collective (you should sign up if you're not already a member). Back in the day it was the 4.0 Collective. The members there have done some crazy shit. But no one has done anything like that with an STS turbo. In fact, the STS turbos have traditonally made less power than the Powerhouse 411 turbo, which is a kickass, perfectly-sized kit. I'd love to see your dyno sheet. Do you have it?
That's still a bit much. Did you raise your redline? What kind of dyno? No nitrous?? :)
I could easily see that much torque (from the turbo), but HP? Turbos are more efficient than superchargers... don't get me wrong. But they don't make 20% more power. I had most of your mods as well, with the exception of the coil pack, which has been dyno'd to death, showing no gains. They're good for supporting high amounts of boost, as the spark is denser and doesn't blow out as easy.
It's an STS rear mount turbo with a predator MAFia sensor bbk throttle body, throttle body spacer, bbk headers, crank pulley, screamin demon coil pack, NGK iridium spark plugs, Taylor thunderbolt plug wires, 3.73 gears and T-lok... Turbo also has the intercooler, bov, and 42lb injectors.... An I'm pretty sure I'm forgetting something
That's awesome right now I'm right around 375 at the wheels so I've only got a few more things I can upgrade before getting to the internals but I'm also only runnin 7psi playin it safe for now
Not to be rude, but how in the hell are you getting 375 RWHP on 7psi? I would venture to say that it's really not possible. With a ProCharger P1SC at 9psi I had 321 RWHP. The tune was not quite "ragged edge", but was pretty aggressive. That turned a lot of heads. That was with a lot of other things done as well (including full custom exhaust system).
Most people get roughly 10-15% (15 being the absolute max) through tuning and bolt ons. So for a 210 stock engine, minus 15% drivetrain losses, then add a max of 15% back for bolt-ons and tuning, that would be roughly 210 RWHP. If you take that 210 and add roughly 50% (which is what 7psi is worth, at 14.6 normal air pressure), you have a total of 315 RWHP.
There's really no way you can get ANOTHER 20% on top of that unless you're running blower/turbo AND nitrous.
I really don't remember. Even so, I think I paid a little less because I was the first to have them. I was basically testing them (even though they were made perfectly). They also may have dropped in price... or gone up. I bought them in late 2006!
Nice car man I'm just under 400 to the wheels on my 08 V6 just wondering where did u get your heads and cams I've had a hard time finding them for the V6
Wow, "I wanna Go Fast 2010". I see you have a 2011 GT. You should have no problems making that "go fast". You should do something quick, though. My car (when it was still a V6) would blow the doors off your stock 2011. God forbid someone mod a new 2011 V6 and make you cry. How old are you?
BTW, I did not spend more than I would've on a GT when the first came out (with all the markup). I had a 440 RWHP car compared to a GT w/260 or so to the wheels (stock). You do the math.
Its proven that on our cars the shortys add a bit of sound but very little if any performance but long tube headers do add power on a boosted car. 5.0 magazine did an article of tests with a mustang in different exhaust conditions. Thats just one example. Its just the way it works with forced induction.
I've read all of those tests. They always mess with the control methods. They change tunes in between parts swaps, let the car go lean at times, etc...
If you were to put a set of long tubes on without touching your tune, you'll see a bit more HP. That is because long tube headers will cause your engine to run a bit lean. Lean equals more power. Rich equals more safe.
Yes. A lean mixture is more volatile. If you have some form of FI, say you "command" an 11.5 AFR. You'll make less power than at a 13 AFR. The reason you run a richer mixture for FI is to keep the mix cooler (and the chance of ping/detonation lower).
More fuel does cool the intake charge, but it also raises the air/fuel ratio past a perfect stoichiometric ratio, where gas and air are capable of making the most power/complete burn. You will blow unused gas down the tailpipe.
the stoichiometric ratio is about 18:1 but engines like to be closer to 14:1 as some fuel always sticks to the cylinder etc Im talking about carbs though. and it cools the charge.
I missed your comment on stoich. I hate to say you're wrong, but there's no other way to say it.
You need to do some more reading. Wikipedia is a good start, though there are other techier sites out there.
Just for reference, the stoich AFR for pump gas is 14.64:1. For E85, stoich is 9.8:1 ( but will still read 14.6 or so on a air/fuel meter calibrated for lambda).
You may be thinking of the AFR used for lean burn at cruise (light load). 18 would be good for that, but is not stoich
the reason the stoichiometric ratio is richer than the perfect ratio to run an engine is that fuel sticks to the side of cylinder AND intake, carbs need a richer mixture as they usually have longer intake AND if u run to lean u may detonate. all engines have some waste hydrocarbons and this is why, we use swirl to reduce this. 14:1 or 18: 1 cant quite recall, 9:1 is methane I think.
modern cars can control detonation using paezo electric crystals and retard timing individually......
Wow man. I give up. You've beaten me with your misunderstanding of everything car-related. Carb or injector, it doesn't matter. You were already wrong on carb (something about it being closer to the cylinders??). You were wrong about stoich (not 18:1, but 14.64:1). Yet you still keep on debating. I've tried to be polite and pass on knowledge, because that makes me happy. But I can't help you if you don't want to learn.
...they r richer due to less swirl, why does this matter? fuel falls out of air- where does this fuel go? it sticks to cylinders and manifolds.
each fuel type has different ratios I knew petrol was somewhere around 14-18, that mistake hardly proves a thing there r hundreds of types and ratios, and this is simply an exchange of information not a contest, we r only custodians of info.
Plus, detonation can only be controlled after an event has happened. Yes, there are crystals in knock sensors. They are sensitive to pinging. If a cylinder your car simply pre-detonates, there's nothing that knock sensor can do besides pull timing. The damage can already be done.
If you want to run your AFR at 18:1, have a FANTASTIC TIME. You will destroy your engine. Luckily, it doesn't sounds like your tuning your car, otherwise you'd know these things. Good luck in the future.
why do u think carbs have them little spring controlled valve on the butterfly?
this is so fuel doesnt detach from manifold walls on over run (high vacuum) and cause extra HC emissions, why do u think older cars need richer mixture? because there is less swirl- why does this matter? because if u dont have swirl more fuel sticks to cylinder walls and manifold, and falls out of air,u get higher HC emmissions oh and no car runs a stoichiometricly correct ratio they r always richer.
I've forgotten what the original debate was! This video is about a 440 HP V6 Mustang. It's fuel injected and has no issues whatsoever with puddling, fuel sticking to walls, etc... That's what vacuum is for. If you have these problems, even on a carb'd engine, I'd check your vacuum lines with an analog gauge.
People come on here to learn about how I did this. You saying anything higher than a 14.6:1 AFR is dangerous to others looking to do what I did.
Think about what you're saying. Richer makes more power? No. Oxygen is what makes power. If that was true, who'd need blowers and turbos? ...we'd just dump more fuel in our cars. Hell, whip me up a 3:1 AFR and I'll spank those turbo guys!
All sarcasm aside, you're wrong. Even on a carb'd vehicle, you should be shooting for a 14.6:1 AFR at cruise. Maybe a little higher if you want to save gas. N/A at WOT should be around 13.x:1. If blown, 12:1. Good advice. Take it or leave it.
air alone wont make power if u blow an engine and u dont add more fuel it will die.
u said even in an earlier reply "richer may make more power due to it cooling charge" cooler air is more dense etc. by cooling air u increase the amount of air flowing and to a degree it cancels itself out, im not talking mega lumpy rich just a little.
No kidding. My point all along is that you need the right mix. Rich does not make more power. Period! Yes, it does cool the air charge, but that means less power with safety as the trade-off. Injecting more fuel into a cylinder does not "compress" the air. Adding fuel will not make your air charge more "dense" when it's already in the engine! It'll just richen it up, making it less combustible. At a 14.64:1, a gas/air mix makes the best power. Any higher or lower means less power.
Another thing you may be seeing, especially with the 05+ cars with the Spanish Oaks PCM, is that if you run lean, the car can pull timing pretty quickly. In fact, if you dig into the tune, there are a ton of different logged parameters that can affect timing. It's not enough to just "lean out" the car to make more power. You have to adjust the timing tables as well. The PCM also tends to overcompensate when pulling timing if any of these parameters stray from what the PCM expects.
Im talking carburetors not fi though its the same thing but injectors r closer to cylinders so u get less fuel sticking to manifols and cylinder walls etc, older cars r worse for this as there is less swirl and some puddling.
Carburetors sit on top of the intake. The fuel is sprayed into the a top of the intake, central to all the cylinders. Fuel injectors sit directly on top of the each cylinder's respective intake port in the heads. You couldn't get much closer to the cylinder without putting the fuel injector directly into the cylinder (much as the spark plug is).
I'm beginning to think I'm wasting my time on this discussion. Lean makes more power.
...and just to be clear, when I say "lean", I'm talking stoich (14.64:1 for avg pump gas). Normally, an N/A car is made to run richer at WOT (typically, 13.5:1) as to prevent detonation. On a boosted application, WOT AFR is typically set to anywhere from an 11.5 - 12.5 AFR. This is for safety... not power.
I must add that by making the exhaust more fluid it allows the supercharger to work more efficiently. ie, long tube headers, high flow cats or no cats, larger tubing exhaust. Its forced induction, have to relieve the pressure. Shorties are good for N/A cars but are not any different than manifolds. I hope to have some clips of mine up soon.
I tend to disagree here. The exhaust systems in today's cars are not easily improved upon. If your car is already superchared and tuned properly, headers are not going to make any significant difference. If there is any difference, it would be similar to what you'd see running your car on the same dyno, different day/weather.
I've run up to 14psi of boost on the 4.0L, with stock, shorty, and longtube headers. I even removed the cats and saw no significant gains.
You dont need internals to get more hp, internals help safely get higher numbers when power adders are applied. I have stock internals with a paxton novi 1200, vortech intercooler, running 8lbs boost, cdc shaker, pacesetter long tubes, gt h pipe, high flow race cats, borla mufflers, I get about 340 at the motor, 305 rwhp, 302 rwtq. Done by Shelby American Las Vegas. I can get more also but its a daily driver need it to last till I can park it more. Either way its fun to be boosted. Nice car
Very true. In fact, forged pistons are heavier than hypereutectic pistons used in stock Mustang engines (minus the GT500). Adding weight in the rotating assembly has a multiplier affect, so stock pistons end up making more power than forged.
Building an engine just makes it stronger. It does not increase power (unless you change compression, stroke, bore, etc...).
To be honest, you're going to spend a lot going to 400+ RWHP on the 4.0. If you're looking for 400+ HP, I would stop modding now and save for an engine swap. You don't have to do a 3v 5.4L like I did.... You can easily put a 4.6 in and have a lot more options for building it up for the power level you want.
@cabuzzi 4.6 is only 0.6 l more of a displacement. you can get that 4.0 to be a 4.6 as well. I think if to do a swap on a car like this, it will be smarter to get a big block in there, or stick with this one.
Many have struggled with designing a stroker kit for the 4.0L for years. It just can't safely be done. Talk with Tom @ SSM. He'll tell you. No one's been able to built a 4.3... let alone a 4.5 (never heard of a 4.6). The 3.8 is a different story. There are 4.3 and 4.5L stroker kits from that (SSM has them).
Keep in mind, the 4.0L (derivitave of the Cologne engine) started as a 1.8L. There is no room left. Search Wikipedia for "Ford Cologne V6 engine".
How are you gonna stroke the 4.0? Many have thought about it, and even done some preliminary design, but in The end, all plans were abandoned. It's just not possible due to the lack of aftermarket parts.
here is my question to ou sir, what do you think i can do with any eaton supercharger to increase boost, i plan on doing a ull engine overhaul and stroking the block. What can i do reasonably because I am on a tight budget?
Heads and cams do not make an engine stronger. The weakest part of the 4.0 are the rods. Unfortunately, there are no real aftermarket replacements for those. SSM makes some billet ones, but they aren't meant for longevity. The stock rods are factory "forged", but do not confuse that with forged aftermarket rods. The other big issue is the crank. If a forged piece were available, this engine could take more.
@gunzfactory basically you can purchase a "built block" from ssm, they have lower compression pistons which are boost friendly, however there really isnt much out there for the 4.0L engines, i used to run a twin turbo setup, the engine is good for about 400-450hp, which is enough to net low 12s, however i would HIGHLY recommend strengthening your drivetrain before ANY serious forced induction, im saying tranny, driveshaft, and axle need to be swapped
@gunzfactory actually i learned the hard way, i destroyed second gear on the stock T-5 at the track and ended up having to replace it, so i went with the heavy duty racing rear diff with 4.10 gears and aluminum driveline to a fully built T-5, i recomend beefing the drivetrain before the engine
Most people are lucky to get 300 RWHP out of the intercooled xcharger. that is on a stock engine. with heads and cams, you might see 350 RWHP with a good tune. The V6 in this car saw 440 RWHP (daily driven) before I swapped it for the 5.4L.
nice little setup you had there, my tuner i go to in michigan had the vortech setup with 4:30 gears and 75 horse shot of nos and ran 10.80's with factory catback and racegas, the newer 4.0 will really run with some boost!
You have to go a little easy in the turns. Any gravel or such will cause you to break lose. I really didn't drive it much in the winter. Only on the dry days.
Keep in mind, I don't have the 4.0L any more. I put a 5.4L 3v from an F150 in. Twin Turbos are going in soon. Testing out the headers next week. Once they fit, the rest of the kit can go in.
That's sorta close to what you should be expecting. I started with a P1SC kit from RPM Outlet. I installed it at 11psi and got 321 RWHP. 440 RHWP came with a lot more upgrades, including heads and cams, which are difficult to install. Plus, I upped the boost to 14psi.
RPM Outlet is still the best place to get the ProCharger kits, though I recommend going with the D1SC and the 3-core intercooler. It's only $249 to get the D1 upgrade at time of purchase, and $350 for the larger intercooler. It costs over $1200 to upgrade just the blower through ATI later. The other thing is that ATI requires you to have the 3 core to upgrade to the D1SC. I have no idea what they charge to upgrade that.
So you can pay $600 more now and get a much better setup.
The engine itself had no real supporting mods. The bottom end was stock. The heads and cams made roughly 40 RWHP over stock. The rest came from boost.
As far as the rest of the car, the tranny stayed stock (held up well, actually). I had previously beefed up the 7.5" rear end (Detroit TrueTrac, T/A girdle cover, axle brace, etc...), but it didn't hold up. Ended up going with an 8.8" rear and alum driveshaft
hopefully you reply but did you put any other upgadres on it. cus next summer when i get it i dont wnna blow up my engine. any cam upgrade or anyhitng? i would like to know if there are any neccesary upgrades cus no one else knows.
@cabuzzi How was the service with RPM Outlet? I am thinking about getting the kit soon... I just dont fully understand all of the options... they are getting me a little confused is all.
Service is "ok". You're going with them for price. They used to have a guy that will give you a pretty good base tune (George). If he's still there, you're in luck. You have to keep on him, though... he's real busy.
I still recommend you get a dyno tune, though. Best for safety and power. Oh, and make sure you get boost and air/fuel gauge. Don't cheap out. The AEM controller with gauge is pretty cheap (compared to some others) and easy to install in a normal pod.
I don't "have" to prove anything. You either believe it or you don't. This dyno sheet is corrected for my altitude (6400ft, Colorado Springs). I went down to sea level for a class and brought a larger pulley (to keep the boost at 14psi) and got 443 RWHP (uncorrected), so the SAE correction is pretty damn good (watch out for the older DynoJet software revisions, though).
I'll msg you the dyno sheet, as I can't post it here for some reason.
I got the whole kit from RPM Outlet. Not the greatest shop in the world (real busy), but they do have the best price. They can probably even get you a decent base tune (just make sure to chose the SCT tuner option, if they have one). Count on getting a dyno tune when you're all done, though. You'll get the most out of the kit that way.
Oh, and DEFINITELY opt for the 3-core intercooler and D1SC upgrade. It's cheap upfront, 4x more expensive later.
Most are lucky to get 300 RWHP with an X-Charger. That is not a blower that you get for huge power... sorry.
They do have an intercooled option now. Not sure how much it's worth. The "X-Men" on MustangCollective will speak volumes of it. Personally, if you want more power, sell the X-Charger and get a turbo.
At the time, I did. I broke the fully-built 7.5" the first time I launched at sea level with 440 RWHP. I had a Detroit TrueTrac, T/A girdle with bearing cap studs, and CHE axle braces. It wasn't enough. :)
I now have a fairly stock 8.8" rear to go with the 5.4L 3v I put in. The heads from MMR failed for a 3rd time so the engine is off for repairs. I'll be getting a different set of heads this time. Not leaving it to MMR to F up again...
I'm not going to go much into it, as I'm considering legal action. At this time, I would warn ANYONE about doing business with them... at least on engine parts. Search around on Modular Fords (where most of the good engine nuts live) and you'll find the horror stories.
On this run, yes... I had the 7.5", but it was not stock. I had a Detroit TrueTrac, CHE axle braces, and a T/A girdle with bearing bolts. I had the car professionally tuned and got it up to 440 RWHP. The first time I took it to sea level with that much power, I sheered the axle shaft and drove all the way home (3 days) with one wheel turning. I put in an 8.8" shortly after. :)
Having a car that beat stock GT500s on the track was fun. It's even more fun when you consider it was a V6.
I have a 5.4L V8 from a Ford F150 in now. MMR did me wrong and the engine failed for a 3rd time. The engine is now with JPC Racing and will hopefully be back soon.
I could start quite a ATI vs Vortech debate, but each side has it's fans. Personally, I've never seen an ATI fail on a Mustang. I've seen at least 2-3 Vortech's fail.... sometimes taking out the engine as well, since the Vortech using engine oil to cool it (tapping the oil pan).
Rumor has it that Vortech is starting to use self-contained oil blowers, but I don't think they have that model for the 4.0L. I could be wrong though.
If you want more reasoning why I chose ATI, message me offline.
X-Chargers are not for peak power. Most X-Charger owners get 260-280 RWHP on a stock block. They do have an IC coming out, but it's expensive and I don't think will help you get much past 300. With heads and cams from SSM, maybe add another 30-40 HP.
PC vs Vortech is another story. They're much closer performance-wise, though PCs usually make a little better power, I think for a few reasons:
As far as tuning, this car was tuned professionally using the Diablo software. I had the handheld tuner which allowed me to make some changes to fuel, timing, gear ratio, tire revs per mile, etc...
did u have to do any cam work or any other mods to the engine to handle the power i am looking into a turbo or supercharger and everyone keeps telling me anything over 9 psi will blow the 4.0 motor
The bottom end stayed stock and took 400+ HP without issue. I did a compression test before I swapped to the 5.4L, and it passed with flying colors.
From what I've seen, most engines fail after 450 RWHP. I was at 440 RWHP, but I was also at 6400 ft. My uncorrected number was about 400 or so. If I had been beating on the car at sea level, things may have been different.
11psi and a good tune is no problem on the 4.0L. Let me stress the GOOD TUNE
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
try NOS. you will get 100-150 hp to the rear wheels, its safe on ur engine, and its a lot cheaper..only about 1k to do it right..ur car is not built to handle a super charger and ur just gonna blow up ur engine..dont be stupid
That car can easily handle a supercharger, I know it's expensive, but you should take your ass to Wyotech and get a real automotive education, learn something about engine internals, and not what you read in a mustang magazine....don't be stupid.
Yes, you're quite ignorant. A stock 4.0L is capable of a higher percentage increase than a stock 4.6L 3v V8.
I ran my car at 440 RWHP for over a year. My tune was safe. I spent a lot of time on the dyno and on the road with the best tuner in town, making the trim and timing perfect.
When you've single-handedly put a 5.4L V8 from an F-150 into your Mustang (before it had ever been done), drive it on the street, and get 24mpg out of it, then you can come back and chat.
Hey this is exactly what im leaning towards. I was thinking the X charger but either the procharger or vortech.. Im gonna get the heads and cams. I see you say its not worth it. Isnt it better to have to run higher boost? I see that 364hp, was that at the wheels? I really wanna get to a 400RWHP mustang for a DD, so thinking that the Supersix heads and cams, with either S/C is a must.. Please get to me.. Im interested in this..
I'm going to be having a short block built from Supersix motor sports...and their stage three super heads...my question to you is this....do I need to mod the T5 manual? Or can I leave it as is... I'm looking at 450 rwhp and I just want to make sure that it can hold it...if not I have a list of places that can rebuild the transmission to any spec I need.
I love the car, cant say enough about it. I would change some extrior stuff now that you got it going on under the hood.
What Kind of Heads and Cams, was it Super Six like they said before. I was thinking about getting me a set this summer, Just NA heads not supercharged
I'm not planning on changing much on the exterior. I think the new Mustangs look good "as is". Not in that crowd, really...
Besides, I really like the sleeper look.
The heads/cams are from SSM. I would not recommend that particular route for most people. It is a hell of a tough job with the 4.0L engine. I did the work myself, but ended up having to bring the car back to Ford to have the cams "degreed". It's not worth the money for the 40 RWHP or so you gain...
I just bought a new 2009 4.0 v6 pony package, I was told the top speed is governed to 113 mph and if you exceed 120mph after taking the governor out the tyres and driveshaft would fail, so you have to replace them with better quality ones, is this true.
The 2005 V6s had a flawed driveshaft the first model half of the year. They would SOMETIMES bust at around 110-112 mph due to some sort of harmonic bullshit. Halfway through the model year, Ford corrected the design. Your 2009 should be just fine. Switching to an aluminum driveshaft is overrated, IMHO.
Try your car at high speeds, ungoverned, first (not a recommendation to speed, mind you...). If you get an uncomfortable shimmy at 115+ mph, go to an aluminum driveshaft.
I would be more worried about the POS tires that Ford puts on the V6 before I'd worry about the driveshaft. Besides, you shouldn't be driving that fast, anyways.
I actually never speed, I would hate to lose my license to the mounties, I was just wondering, anyway as you know mustangs are really not about speed are they, they are muscle cars, it is actually quite a big heavy car, at least I know I could pull a boat with four passengers uphill in the heat with the ac on at 100kph and do it all day!
The Mustang is actually pretty light when you compare it to other sports cars. I'm not sure what the final weight will be on the Camaro, but the top Dodges (Charger, Challenger) are all OVER 1000 LBS HEAVIER. That, is just ridiculous.
Besides, there is a lot you can do to lighten up a Mustang...
Well that means the power to weight ratio on the mustang is one of the reasons it is relatively economical.
I don`t really like the look of the new camaro, too futuristic, the mustang I think got the balance between retro and modern about right, also I got a stick shift as I really wanted to drive the car, and we have some fantastic drives in British Columbia.
I bet. Must be fun out here. No shortage of nice drives in the states... but it'd be nice to be out there for a few weeks, just driving the countryside.
Thanks, just saw yours too. I wish there was as many options for the 4.0 as the 3.8 has. Your ride is sick.
For now, I'm loving the 5.4L V8 in there now. I've run into some pretty tough stuff the last weeks.... I'm considering selling the Mustang. It breaks my heart, but the kids come first.
I'll post here if that happens, because I know a lot of people have asked me about selling in the past...
wow .. very sorry to hear man, but I hear ya .. family first !! you can always build another car but yet I know it hurts with all the time and money invested go is hard but its for the family and thats more important ..
Thanks yes the 3.8l stock block is stronger and lots of 351W parts fits as its a copy of the ford nascar v6 motor and the 351w so most of the parts fits, she will hold up to 1,000hp at the crank and even more if the main caps are welded. i'm over at hpmustangs,com
At 11 psi, I was making 364 RWHP/358 RWTQ. That was before the heads and cams.
Supercharger is the better bang for the buck. I was looking to get the most out of the car. Heads and cams are not cheap, and the install is difficult. If you're not an experienced mechanic, you will not be able to do the install yourself. I would count on AT LEAST $1000 for a shop to do the work. Probably more like $1500-2000 in labor and parts alone, not including cost of heads and cams.
Hey Ive had my V6 for awhile and in a few months gonna start to either s/c or do the heads and cams from Super six.. I saw you wrote that you had a great tune and were running at 11 psi.. What were HP/TQ numbers. I dont know if I should go S/C or heads and cams first. Im thinking S/C.. My end goal is just to be close to 400HP as possible for a daily driver
No. I am in the process of preparing it to sell. ATI sent me a brand new D1SC to sell with the kit, but I still need to clean some of the piping, inventory the nuts/bolts, etc... It should be ready to ship within a week. I have no firm buyer yet. If you're interested, send me a message through YouTube.
Love those rims got um on my 07 v6
andybobz 1 week ago
did you have to swap the trans?
corycallawayisHOT 1 month ago
lookin good cant wait till i get mine going ( 05horse @ collective)
bmxfire37 6 months ago
What kind of rear end did you have with that. I just want the 6 psi procharger. Would the 7.5 be able to handle it?
xxlilpoopyxx 6 months ago
@xxlilpoopyxx
For just 6psi, you'll be fine with the 7.5" rear end. You may want to consider an LSD of some sort, but then you're talking about money you could put towards an 8.8.
cabuzzi 6 months ago
@xxlilpoopyxx i heard the 7.5 is good for 350 but you're pushing it if you're still looking for it
ogpauly 4 months ago
@ogpauly
350 is pushing it on the 7.5. If I were you, I'd start looking at places that sell GT take-off rear ends. They're usually pretty cheap, but shipping can get you.
cabuzzi 4 months ago
@cabuzzi yeah that's what i said lol. Will a 8.8 just bolt on? don't you need the cobra pinion flange?
ogpauly 4 months ago
Fake and Gay
originalhippies56 10 months ago
@Surivolif
Nope. You're not the only one who asks. My best was 12.5 in Pueblo, CO. I was hoping to break 11s during a trip to Norwalk, OH for a 4.0L Mustang meet... but a sheered axle shaft prevented that (best of a 13.2 that day). Had to drive the whole way home with a howling rear end. :(
cabuzzi 11 months ago
@cabuzzi do a rear end swap out of a 05 GT.
tylerm8 8 months ago
@cabuzzi if i buy heads & cams, should i also buy the pistons from SSM?
itsDalen 8 months ago
@itsDalen
Yes. Tom will get you a good price on the pistons and help you choose the best compression ratio for your setup. Word of advice... don't go much lower than stock. 9.0:1 is the lowest I'd go on these cars.
cabuzzi 4 months ago
Don't know the size right off hand and it spools between 2500 and 3000 and the only time I took it to the track I didn't have slicks... Spun out for a good second or 2 and ended with a lousy 14.1 1/4 before upgrading the ignition components, the new crank pulley, and welding the pipe work running the length of the car
longhorns0202 1 year ago
@longhorns0202
What kind of tires are you running? Any suspension mods? Other than your 3.73s, I didn't notice any. I would definitely invest in an LCA/UCA upgrade, better rear swaybar, anti-squat brackets, etc... You'd be amazed how much difference a good rear setup will make.
Myself I had the following done to my 7.5" rear: J&M poly-ball UCA & LCAs, CHE alum panhard bar, CHE antisquat brackets, CHE axle brace, T/A alum girdle with bearing cap studs. I eventually broke the 7.5" though :)
cabuzzi 1 year ago
So do you have a dyno sheet? What size turbos are you running? What is the spool RPM? What are your ETs (if you take it to the track)?
cabuzzi 1 year ago
Goin to get a fresh tune within the next month or 2
longhorns0202 1 year ago
The STS kit gives around 20-25hp per lb of boost... Believe me or don't... I don't really care I've got no one to impress here I know what I have
longhorns0202 1 year ago
@longhorns0202
Not saying you're lying... just astounded. I'm one of the original members at the Mustang Collective (you should sign up if you're not already a member). Back in the day it was the 4.0 Collective. The members there have done some crazy shit. But no one has done anything like that with an STS turbo. In fact, the STS turbos have traditonally made less power than the Powerhouse 411 turbo, which is a kickass, perfectly-sized kit. I'd love to see your dyno sheet. Do you have it?
cabuzzi 1 year ago
That's still a bit much. Did you raise your redline? What kind of dyno? No nitrous?? :)
I could easily see that much torque (from the turbo), but HP? Turbos are more efficient than superchargers... don't get me wrong. But they don't make 20% more power. I had most of your mods as well, with the exception of the coil pack, which has been dyno'd to death, showing no gains. They're good for supporting high amounts of boost, as the spark is denser and doesn't blow out as easy.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
It's an STS rear mount turbo with a predator MAFia sensor bbk throttle body, throttle body spacer, bbk headers, crank pulley, screamin demon coil pack, NGK iridium spark plugs, Taylor thunderbolt plug wires, 3.73 gears and T-lok... Turbo also has the intercooler, bov, and 42lb injectors.... An I'm pretty sure I'm forgetting something
longhorns0202 1 year ago
That's awesome right now I'm right around 375 at the wheels so I've only got a few more things I can upgrade before getting to the internals but I'm also only runnin 7psi playin it safe for now
longhorns0202 1 year ago
@longhorns0202
Not to be rude, but how in the hell are you getting 375 RWHP on 7psi? I would venture to say that it's really not possible. With a ProCharger P1SC at 9psi I had 321 RWHP. The tune was not quite "ragged edge", but was pretty aggressive. That turned a lot of heads. That was with a lot of other things done as well (including full custom exhaust system).
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@longhorns0202
Most people get roughly 10-15% (15 being the absolute max) through tuning and bolt ons. So for a 210 stock engine, minus 15% drivetrain losses, then add a max of 15% back for bolt-ons and tuning, that would be roughly 210 RWHP. If you take that 210 and add roughly 50% (which is what 7psi is worth, at 14.6 normal air pressure), you have a total of 315 RWHP.
There's really no way you can get ANOTHER 20% on top of that unless you're running blower/turbo AND nitrous.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
What kind of power gain did you see with them?
longhorns0202 1 year ago
@longhorns0202
Roughly 40 RWHP after tuning. Went from 362 to 404 RWHP at 12psi. I later upped the boost to 14psi to get to 440 RWHP.... my high with the V6.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
Ok awesome and about how much did they run you?
longhorns0202 1 year ago
@longhorns0202
I really don't remember. Even so, I think I paid a little less because I was the first to have them. I was basically testing them (even though they were made perfectly). They also may have dropped in price... or gone up. I bought them in late 2006!
cabuzzi 1 year ago
Nice car man I'm just under 400 to the wheels on my 08 V6 just wondering where did u get your heads and cams I've had a hard time finding them for the V6
longhorns0202 1 year ago
@longhorns0202
Talk to Tom at Super Six Motorsports. He can hook you up.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
I'm working on a1996 v6 3.8L mustang i started with a wimpy 100 hp but I'll let u know what I finish with
vegetamario 1 year ago
wow cabuzzi u did a hell of a job im doing a v6 project myself
vegetamario 1 year ago
@vegetamario
Thanks! What are you working on doing?
cabuzzi 1 year ago
wow you spent all that money on a pos v6
iwanaGoFast2010 1 year ago
@iwanaGoFast2010
Wow, "I wanna Go Fast 2010". I see you have a 2011 GT. You should have no problems making that "go fast". You should do something quick, though. My car (when it was still a V6) would blow the doors off your stock 2011. God forbid someone mod a new 2011 V6 and make you cry. How old are you?
BTW, I did not spend more than I would've on a GT when the first came out (with all the markup). I had a 440 RWHP car compared to a GT w/260 or so to the wheels (stock). You do the math.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@iwanaGoFast2010
Not to mention, you'll be lucky to see 360-370 to the wheels on your 2011. Better get working. There's always someone faster!
cabuzzi 1 year ago
Its proven that on our cars the shortys add a bit of sound but very little if any performance but long tube headers do add power on a boosted car. 5.0 magazine did an article of tests with a mustang in different exhaust conditions. Thats just one example. Its just the way it works with forced induction.
clseairsppt 1 year ago
@clseairsppt
I've read all of those tests. They always mess with the control methods. They change tunes in between parts swaps, let the car go lean at times, etc...
If you were to put a set of long tubes on without touching your tune, you'll see a bit more HP. That is because long tube headers will cause your engine to run a bit lean. Lean equals more power. Rich equals more safe.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi
lean makes more power?
Ive found the opposite, a little bit rich cools intake charge so u get more air and thus more power, lean engines just rev higher.
tpvalley 1 year ago
@tpvalley
Yes. A lean mixture is more volatile. If you have some form of FI, say you "command" an 11.5 AFR. You'll make less power than at a 13 AFR. The reason you run a richer mixture for FI is to keep the mix cooler (and the chance of ping/detonation lower).
More fuel does cool the intake charge, but it also raises the air/fuel ratio past a perfect stoichiometric ratio, where gas and air are capable of making the most power/complete burn. You will blow unused gas down the tailpipe.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi
the stoichiometric ratio is about 18:1 but engines like to be closer to 14:1 as some fuel always sticks to the cylinder etc Im talking about carbs though. and it cools the charge.
tpvalley 1 year ago
@tpvalley
I missed your comment on stoich. I hate to say you're wrong, but there's no other way to say it.
You need to do some more reading. Wikipedia is a good start, though there are other techier sites out there.
Just for reference, the stoich AFR for pump gas is 14.64:1. For E85, stoich is 9.8:1 ( but will still read 14.6 or so on a air/fuel meter calibrated for lambda).
You may be thinking of the AFR used for lean burn at cruise (light load). 18 would be good for that, but is not stoich
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi
the reason the stoichiometric ratio is richer than the perfect ratio to run an engine is that fuel sticks to the side of cylinder AND intake, carbs need a richer mixture as they usually have longer intake AND if u run to lean u may detonate. all engines have some waste hydrocarbons and this is why, we use swirl to reduce this. 14:1 or 18: 1 cant quite recall, 9:1 is methane I think.
modern cars can control detonation using paezo electric crystals and retard timing individually......
tpvalley 1 year ago
@tpvalley
Wow man. I give up. You've beaten me with your misunderstanding of everything car-related. Carb or injector, it doesn't matter. You were already wrong on carb (something about it being closer to the cylinders??). You were wrong about stoich (not 18:1, but 14.64:1). Yet you still keep on debating. I've tried to be polite and pass on knowledge, because that makes me happy. But I can't help you if you don't want to learn.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi
...they r richer due to less swirl, why does this matter? fuel falls out of air- where does this fuel go? it sticks to cylinders and manifolds.
each fuel type has different ratios I knew petrol was somewhere around 14-18, that mistake hardly proves a thing there r hundreds of types and ratios, and this is simply an exchange of information not a contest, we r only custodians of info.
tpvalley 1 year ago
@tpvalley
Plus, detonation can only be controlled after an event has happened. Yes, there are crystals in knock sensors. They are sensitive to pinging. If a cylinder your car simply pre-detonates, there's nothing that knock sensor can do besides pull timing. The damage can already be done.
If you want to run your AFR at 18:1, have a FANTASTIC TIME. You will destroy your engine. Luckily, it doesn't sounds like your tuning your car, otherwise you'd know these things. Good luck in the future.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi
why do u think carbs have them little spring controlled valve on the butterfly?
this is so fuel doesnt detach from manifold walls on over run (high vacuum) and cause extra HC emissions, why do u think older cars need richer mixture? because there is less swirl- why does this matter? because if u dont have swirl more fuel sticks to cylinder walls and manifold, and falls out of air,u get higher HC emmissions oh and no car runs a stoichiometricly correct ratio they r always richer.
tpvalley 1 year ago
@tpvalley
I've forgotten what the original debate was! This video is about a 440 HP V6 Mustang. It's fuel injected and has no issues whatsoever with puddling, fuel sticking to walls, etc... That's what vacuum is for. If you have these problems, even on a carb'd engine, I'd check your vacuum lines with an analog gauge.
People come on here to learn about how I did this. You saying anything higher than a 14.6:1 AFR is dangerous to others looking to do what I did.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@tpvalley
Think about what you're saying. Richer makes more power? No. Oxygen is what makes power. If that was true, who'd need blowers and turbos? ...we'd just dump more fuel in our cars. Hell, whip me up a 3:1 AFR and I'll spank those turbo guys!
All sarcasm aside, you're wrong. Even on a carb'd vehicle, you should be shooting for a 14.6:1 AFR at cruise. Maybe a little higher if you want to save gas. N/A at WOT should be around 13.x:1. If blown, 12:1. Good advice. Take it or leave it.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi
air alone wont make power if u blow an engine and u dont add more fuel it will die.
u said even in an earlier reply "richer may make more power due to it cooling charge" cooler air is more dense etc. by cooling air u increase the amount of air flowing and to a degree it cancels itself out, im not talking mega lumpy rich just a little.
tpvalley 1 year ago
@tpvalley
No kidding. My point all along is that you need the right mix. Rich does not make more power. Period! Yes, it does cool the air charge, but that means less power with safety as the trade-off. Injecting more fuel into a cylinder does not "compress" the air. Adding fuel will not make your air charge more "dense" when it's already in the engine! It'll just richen it up, making it less combustible. At a 14.64:1, a gas/air mix makes the best power. Any higher or lower means less power.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@tpvalley
Another thing you may be seeing, especially with the 05+ cars with the Spanish Oaks PCM, is that if you run lean, the car can pull timing pretty quickly. In fact, if you dig into the tune, there are a ton of different logged parameters that can affect timing. It's not enough to just "lean out" the car to make more power. You have to adjust the timing tables as well. The PCM also tends to overcompensate when pulling timing if any of these parameters stray from what the PCM expects.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi
Im talking carburetors not fi though its the same thing but injectors r closer to cylinders so u get less fuel sticking to manifols and cylinder walls etc, older cars r worse for this as there is less swirl and some puddling.
tpvalley 1 year ago
@tpvalley
I'm really not sure what you are talking about.
Carburetors sit on top of the intake. The fuel is sprayed into the a top of the intake, central to all the cylinders. Fuel injectors sit directly on top of the each cylinder's respective intake port in the heads. You couldn't get much closer to the cylinder without putting the fuel injector directly into the cylinder (much as the spark plug is).
I'm beginning to think I'm wasting my time on this discussion. Lean makes more power.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@tpvalley
...and just to be clear, when I say "lean", I'm talking stoich (14.64:1 for avg pump gas). Normally, an N/A car is made to run richer at WOT (typically, 13.5:1) as to prevent detonation. On a boosted application, WOT AFR is typically set to anywhere from an 11.5 - 12.5 AFR. This is for safety... not power.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi
....so detonation is not the main reason.
tpvalley 1 year ago
I must add that by making the exhaust more fluid it allows the supercharger to work more efficiently. ie, long tube headers, high flow cats or no cats, larger tubing exhaust. Its forced induction, have to relieve the pressure. Shorties are good for N/A cars but are not any different than manifolds. I hope to have some clips of mine up soon.
clseairsppt 1 year ago
@clseairsppt
I tend to disagree here. The exhaust systems in today's cars are not easily improved upon. If your car is already superchared and tuned properly, headers are not going to make any significant difference. If there is any difference, it would be similar to what you'd see running your car on the same dyno, different day/weather.
I've run up to 14psi of boost on the 4.0L, with stock, shorty, and longtube headers. I even removed the cats and saw no significant gains.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
You dont need internals to get more hp, internals help safely get higher numbers when power adders are applied. I have stock internals with a paxton novi 1200, vortech intercooler, running 8lbs boost, cdc shaker, pacesetter long tubes, gt h pipe, high flow race cats, borla mufflers, I get about 340 at the motor, 305 rwhp, 302 rwtq. Done by Shelby American Las Vegas. I can get more also but its a daily driver need it to last till I can park it more. Either way its fun to be boosted. Nice car
clseairsppt 1 year ago
@clseairsppt
Very true. In fact, forged pistons are heavier than hypereutectic pistons used in stock Mustang engines (minus the GT500). Adding weight in the rotating assembly has a multiplier affect, so stock pistons end up making more power than forged.
Building an engine just makes it stronger. It does not increase power (unless you change compression, stroke, bore, etc...).
cabuzzi 1 year ago
But still a v6...
carcajouxx 1 year ago
To be honest, you're going to spend a lot going to 400+ RWHP on the 4.0. If you're looking for 400+ HP, I would stop modding now and save for an engine swap. You don't have to do a 3v 5.4L like I did.... You can easily put a 4.6 in and have a lot more options for building it up for the power level you want.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi 4.6 is only 0.6 l more of a displacement. you can get that 4.0 to be a 4.6 as well. I think if to do a swap on a car like this, it will be smarter to get a big block in there, or stick with this one.
aleksankazakov 1 year ago
@aleksankazakov
Many have struggled with designing a stroker kit for the 4.0L for years. It just can't safely be done. Talk with Tom @ SSM. He'll tell you. No one's been able to built a 4.3... let alone a 4.5 (never heard of a 4.6). The 3.8 is a different story. There are 4.3 and 4.5L stroker kits from that (SSM has them).
Keep in mind, the 4.0L (derivitave of the Cologne engine) started as a 1.8L. There is no room left. Search Wikipedia for "Ford Cologne V6 engine".
cabuzzi 1 year ago
How are you gonna stroke the 4.0? Many have thought about it, and even done some preliminary design, but in The end, all plans were abandoned. It's just not possible due to the lack of aftermarket parts.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
here is my question to ou sir, what do you think i can do with any eaton supercharger to increase boost, i plan on doing a ull engine overhaul and stroking the block. What can i do reasonably because I am on a tight budget?
sgtguilly 1 year ago
Heads and cams do not make an engine stronger. The weakest part of the 4.0 are the rods. Unfortunately, there are no real aftermarket replacements for those. SSM makes some billet ones, but they aren't meant for longevity. The stock rods are factory "forged", but do not confuse that with forged aftermarket rods. The other big issue is the crank. If a forged piece were available, this engine could take more.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
what should i buy for my 4.0 to make it stronger before buying a supercharger? just heads and cams?
gunzfactory 1 year ago
@gunzfactory basically you can purchase a "built block" from ssm, they have lower compression pistons which are boost friendly, however there really isnt much out there for the 4.0L engines, i used to run a twin turbo setup, the engine is good for about 400-450hp, which is enough to net low 12s, however i would HIGHLY recommend strengthening your drivetrain before ANY serious forced induction, im saying tranny, driveshaft, and axle need to be swapped
ADD8oi 1 year ago
@ADD8oi so those are the three main things that you changed before installing your setup?
gunzfactory 1 year ago
@gunzfactory actually i learned the hard way, i destroyed second gear on the stock T-5 at the track and ended up having to replace it, so i went with the heavy duty racing rear diff with 4.10 gears and aluminum driveline to a fully built T-5, i recomend beefing the drivetrain before the engine
ADD8oi 1 year ago
@ADD8oi cool thnx for the info
gunzfactory 1 year ago
Most people are lucky to get 300 RWHP out of the intercooled xcharger. that is on a stock engine. with heads and cams, you might see 350 RWHP with a good tune. The V6 in this car saw 440 RWHP (daily driven) before I swapped it for the 5.4L.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
i want to get the same hp but i'd like to go with the new explorer express intercooled.
gunzfactory 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
i have one of these cars now and i am seriously considering a similar setup, i wannt my car to roll with the bigger boys
tonycool990 1 year ago
i have on of these cars now and i am seriously considering a similar setup, i wannt my car to roll with the bigger boys
tonycool990 1 year ago
nice little setup you had there, my tuner i go to in michigan had the vortech setup with 4:30 gears and 75 horse shot of nos and ran 10.80's with factory catback and racegas, the newer 4.0 will really run with some boost!
mustang4375 1 year ago
is it still good for street driving at 14psi and 440 hp?
gunzfactory 1 year ago
@gunzfactory
You have to go a little easy in the turns. Any gravel or such will cause you to break lose. I really didn't drive it much in the winter. Only on the dry days.
Keep in mind, I don't have the 4.0L any more. I put a 5.4L 3v from an F150 in. Twin Turbos are going in soon. Testing out the headers next week. Once they fit, the rest of the kit can go in.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
where did you get this supercharger, cuz all the superchargers ive been looking at for my v6 will only go up to 310 hp
dustinwat 1 year ago
@dustinwat
That's sorta close to what you should be expecting. I started with a P1SC kit from RPM Outlet. I installed it at 11psi and got 321 RWHP. 440 RHWP came with a lot more upgrades, including heads and cams, which are difficult to install. Plus, I upped the boost to 14psi.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@dustinwat
RPM Outlet is still the best place to get the ProCharger kits, though I recommend going with the D1SC and the 3-core intercooler. It's only $249 to get the D1 upgrade at time of purchase, and $350 for the larger intercooler. It costs over $1200 to upgrade just the blower through ATI later. The other thing is that ATI requires you to have the 3 core to upgrade to the D1SC. I have no idea what they charge to upgrade that.
So you can pay $600 more now and get a much better setup.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@gunzfactory
The heads and cams were from Super Six Motorsports.
@wonderbreadkw
The engine itself had no real supporting mods. The bottom end was stock. The heads and cams made roughly 40 RWHP over stock. The rest came from boost.
As far as the rest of the car, the tranny stayed stock (held up well, actually). I had previously beefed up the 7.5" rear end (Detroit TrueTrac, T/A girdle cover, axle brace, etc...), but it didn't hold up. Ended up going with an 8.8" rear and alum driveshaft
cabuzzi 1 year ago
where did you buy your heads and cams?
gunzfactory 1 year ago
hopefully you reply but did you put any other upgadres on it. cus next summer when i get it i dont wnna blow up my engine. any cam upgrade or anyhitng? i would like to know if there are any neccesary upgrades cus no one else knows.
wonderbreadkw 1 year ago
@cabuzzi How was the service with RPM Outlet? I am thinking about getting the kit soon... I just dont fully understand all of the options... they are getting me a little confused is all.
Thanks for the help
justforfun8877 1 year ago
@justforfun8877
Service is "ok". You're going with them for price. They used to have a guy that will give you a pretty good base tune (George). If he's still there, you're in luck. You have to keep on him, though... he's real busy.
I still recommend you get a dyno tune, though. Best for safety and power. Oh, and make sure you get boost and air/fuel gauge. Don't cheap out. The AEM controller with gauge is pretty cheap (compared to some others) and easy to install in a normal pod.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
how can you prove that this v6 has 400rwhp
lote1234567891011 1 year ago
@lote1234567891011
I don't "have" to prove anything. You either believe it or you don't. This dyno sheet is corrected for my altitude (6400ft, Colorado Springs). I went down to sea level for a class and brought a larger pulley (to keep the boost at 14psi) and got 443 RWHP (uncorrected), so the SAE correction is pretty damn good (watch out for the older DynoJet software revisions, though).
I'll msg you the dyno sheet, as I can't post it here for some reason.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@lote1234567891011 how can you prove it doesnt................ awww internet retards
poskyflyer 1 year ago
@poskyflyer CAN YOURSELF RETARD
lote1234567891011 1 year ago
@lote1234567891011 what the fuck does that mean, you must have down sydrome
poskyflyer 1 year ago
@poskyflyer i meant call yourself retraded
lote1234567891011 1 year ago
@lote1234567891011 you really are a moron please hang your self
poskyflyer 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
@poskyflyer thats the only thing you can say becAUSE YOURE A MORON
lote1234567891011 1 year ago
@poskyflyer i meant call yourself retarded
lote1234567891011 1 year ago
what charger do u have
wonderbreadkw 1 year ago
@wonderbreadkw
It was the ProCharger D1SC. I got the car up to 440 RWHP before I pulled the V6 and put a 5.4L from an F150 in.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi whered u get the procharger and what else did u do to it. cus its what im lookin to do just for dicking around while driving lol
wonderbreadkw 1 year ago
@wonderbreadkw
I got the whole kit from RPM Outlet. Not the greatest shop in the world (real busy), but they do have the best price. They can probably even get you a decent base tune (just make sure to chose the SCT tuner option, if they have one). Count on getting a dyno tune when you're all done, though. You'll get the most out of the kit that way.
Oh, and DEFINITELY opt for the 3-core intercooler and D1SC upgrade. It's cheap upfront, 4x more expensive later.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi how much was it? and did u get it online or a store cus im in so cal
wonderbreadkw 1 year ago
@cabuzzi ive seen ppl with extra gauges on the dash or next to the window. do u have that or do u get it seperate.
wonderbreadkw 1 year ago
@wonderbreadkw lol...dicking around...lmao
branman2012 1 year ago
One of the worst sounding cars on earth, congrats.
m25746793 1 year ago
@m25746793
Congrats on being an asshole.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
ok, i have a x-charger on my 4.0L, im in Louisiana, do you know anybody that could get me in the 400 hp 380 torque range?
if so e-mail me @ acguillo@hotmail.com. I love the sound the M/P 90 makes. i just want more out of it.
sgtguilly 1 year ago
@sgtguilly
Most are lucky to get 300 RWHP with an X-Charger. That is not a blower that you get for huge power... sorry.
They do have an intercooled option now. Not sure how much it's worth. The "X-Men" on MustangCollective will speak volumes of it. Personally, if you want more power, sell the X-Charger and get a turbo.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
so you have the stock 7.5 axle? t-loc or no?
RBCantrell727 1 year ago
@RBCantrell727
At the time, I did. I broke the fully-built 7.5" the first time I launched at sea level with 440 RWHP. I had a Detroit TrueTrac, T/A girdle with bearing cap studs, and CHE axle braces. It wasn't enough. :)
I now have a fairly stock 8.8" rear to go with the 5.4L 3v I put in. The heads from MMR failed for a 3rd time so the engine is off for repairs. I'll be getting a different set of heads this time. Not leaving it to MMR to F up again...
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi That's strange, I've always been told that MMR was a reputable manufacturer. Maybe it's just their blocks or something. Hmmmmmm...
sylentmyst 1 year ago
@sylentmyst
I'm not going to go much into it, as I'm considering legal action. At this time, I would warn ANYONE about doing business with them... at least on engine parts. Search around on Modular Fords (where most of the good engine nuts live) and you'll find the horror stories.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@cabuzzi Consider myself warned. I'll stay away from them like the plague. Thank's for the advice! x]
sylentmyst 1 year ago
@sylentmyst
No problem. You can always send me a message here if you need specific advice. There are good vendors out there. They're just harder to find.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
@RBCantrell727
On this run, yes... I had the 7.5", but it was not stock. I had a Detroit TrueTrac, CHE axle braces, and a T/A girdle with bearing bolts. I had the car professionally tuned and got it up to 440 RWHP. The first time I took it to sea level with that much power, I sheered the axle shaft and drove all the way home (3 days) with one wheel turning. I put in an 8.8" shortly after. :)
cabuzzi 1 year ago
I'm not hating on your car or anything like that, but why not just buy a V8?
meturoid13 1 year ago
@meturoid13
Having a car that beat stock GT500s on the track was fun. It's even more fun when you consider it was a V6.
I have a 5.4L V8 from a Ford F150 in now. MMR did me wrong and the engine failed for a 3rd time. The engine is now with JPC Racing and will hopefully be back soon.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
I smell a sleeeeperrrrrrrrr. . . .
mortensen1961 1 year ago
how much boost are you making?
How did you hit 400hp?
JoeJoe396 1 year ago
@JoeJoe396 says 12 and its 400rwhp which is about 500+ crank hp
Blownpony01 1 year ago
I could start quite a ATI vs Vortech debate, but each side has it's fans. Personally, I've never seen an ATI fail on a Mustang. I've seen at least 2-3 Vortech's fail.... sometimes taking out the engine as well, since the Vortech using engine oil to cool it (tapping the oil pan).
Rumor has it that Vortech is starting to use self-contained oil blowers, but I don't think they have that model for the 4.0L. I could be wrong though.
If you want more reasoning why I chose ATI, message me offline.
cabuzzi 1 year ago
Vortech has a self contained for the 4.0 , it s the v-3
graborangemus 1 year ago
@eltigi
X-Chargers are not for peak power. Most X-Charger owners get 260-280 RWHP on a stock block. They do have an IC coming out, but it's expensive and I don't think will help you get much past 300. With heads and cams from SSM, maybe add another 30-40 HP.
PC vs Vortech is another story. They're much closer performance-wise, though PCs usually make a little better power, I think for a few reasons:
- Better intercooling
- Better step-up ratio (larger pulley, less drag)
- Better cooling
cabuzzi 1 year ago
how much horsepowere did the supercharger add?
alexvrce 1 year ago
where can u get cams for the 4.0
westcoastlife4show 2 years ago
SSM (super six motorsports). It's answered in the comments several times.
cabuzzi 2 years ago
r u talking about a handheld tuner or bring it to someone and do u recamend a stroker kit or cams
heathlinden 2 years ago
As far as I know, there is no proven stroker kit for the 4.0L. You may want to give Tom at SSM a call. He'd know if there was one.
cabuzzi 2 years ago
As far as tuning, this car was tuned professionally using the Diablo software. I had the handheld tuner which allowed me to make some changes to fuel, timing, gear ratio, tire revs per mile, etc...
cabuzzi 2 years ago
whered u get the heads and cams?
twistedhat 2 years ago
SSM (super six motorsports). It's answered in the comments several times.
cabuzzi 2 years ago
what kind of supercharger do u have
heathlinden 2 years ago
It's a ProCharger D1SC with a 3-core intercooler, dual blow off valves and 12psi of boost.
cabuzzi 2 years ago
did u have to do any cam work or any other mods to the engine to handle the power i am looking into a turbo or supercharger and everyone keeps telling me anything over 9 psi will blow the 4.0 motor
heathlinden 2 years ago
The bottom end stayed stock and took 400+ HP without issue. I did a compression test before I swapped to the 5.4L, and it passed with flying colors.
From what I've seen, most engines fail after 450 RWHP. I was at 440 RWHP, but I was also at 6400 ft. My uncorrected number was about 400 or so. If I had been beating on the car at sea level, things may have been different.
11psi and a good tune is no problem on the 4.0L. Let me stress the GOOD TUNE
cabuzzi 2 years ago
LOVE it... my foxbody is a wee bit too much nowadays, and I've always wanted to do a supercharged 6...
biscuitninja 2 years ago
I love the look on big bad v8 drivers thinking they are king shit. There isn't anything you can't do with the v8 that you cant do with the v6.
Not to mention the v6 is better balanced, lighter, has better handling and isn't nose heavy like the gt's.
v8's have the ability to be more powerful but it'll cost you. Minus the charger systems. The v6 are abit more expensive then a v8's
I actually think the newer mustangs engine bays are too cluttered. I prefer 00-04
MageryGuy 2 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
try NOS. you will get 100-150 hp to the rear wheels, its safe on ur engine, and its a lot cheaper..only about 1k to do it right..ur car is not built to handle a super charger and ur just gonna blow up ur engine..dont be stupid
goldenponyGT 2 years ago
That car can easily handle a supercharger, I know it's expensive, but you should take your ass to Wyotech and get a real automotive education, learn something about engine internals, and not what you read in a mustang magazine....don't be stupid.
johnnybravo1180 2 years ago
Yes, you're quite ignorant. A stock 4.0L is capable of a higher percentage increase than a stock 4.6L 3v V8.
I ran my car at 440 RWHP for over a year. My tune was safe. I spent a lot of time on the dyno and on the road with the best tuner in town, making the trim and timing perfect.
When you've single-handedly put a 5.4L V8 from an F-150 into your Mustang (before it had ever been done), drive it on the street, and get 24mpg out of it, then you can come back and chat.
Get your learn on.
cabuzzi 2 years ago
how much did it cost u to do the swap??
grantendo 2 years ago
Only babies suck on bottles.
Idiot.
lightsy2010 2 years ago
Hey this is exactly what im leaning towards. I was thinking the X charger but either the procharger or vortech.. Im gonna get the heads and cams. I see you say its not worth it. Isnt it better to have to run higher boost? I see that 364hp, was that at the wheels? I really wanna get to a 400RWHP mustang for a DD, so thinking that the Supersix heads and cams, with either S/C is a must.. Please get to me.. Im interested in this..
Mixedsuccess757 2 years ago
I'm going to be having a short block built from Supersix motor sports...and their stage three super heads...my question to you is this....do I need to mod the T5 manual? Or can I leave it as is... I'm looking at 450 rwhp and I just want to make sure that it can hold it...if not I have a list of places that can rebuild the transmission to any spec I need.
Tigeron1a 2 years ago
I have a v6 04 mustang.
I don't really think its worth it to tune it, itl still be a v6.
if anything i'll trade it in for a cobra svt or a saleen down the road.
but i have to say that 400 hp is rather impressive on a v6. nice work.
mauiwowie11 2 years ago
Sweet car! Thats my favorite Mustang color.
dakotamcatee 2 years ago
I love the car, cant say enough about it. I would change some extrior stuff now that you got it going on under the hood.
What Kind of Heads and Cams, was it Super Six like they said before. I was thinking about getting me a set this summer, Just NA heads not supercharged
BW05Mustang 2 years ago
I'm not planning on changing much on the exterior. I think the new Mustangs look good "as is". Not in that crowd, really...
Besides, I really like the sleeper look.
The heads/cams are from SSM. I would not recommend that particular route for most people. It is a hell of a tough job with the 4.0L engine. I did the work myself, but ended up having to bring the car back to Ford to have the cams "degreed". It's not worth the money for the 40 RWHP or so you gain...
cabuzzi 2 years ago
ugly rims
hitman7777777777 2 years ago
Opinions are like assholes....
Seriously, those are stock GT rims. What's wrong with them? Look at my later videos. I have different rims now.
...not that I really care what you think. :)
cabuzzi 2 years ago
so what's the top speed on this mustang?
vatossan 2 years ago
I just bought a new 2009 4.0 v6 pony package, I was told the top speed is governed to 113 mph and if you exceed 120mph after taking the governor out the tyres and driveshaft would fail, so you have to replace them with better quality ones, is this true.
79274333 3 years ago
The 2005 V6s had a flawed driveshaft the first model half of the year. They would SOMETIMES bust at around 110-112 mph due to some sort of harmonic bullshit. Halfway through the model year, Ford corrected the design. Your 2009 should be just fine. Switching to an aluminum driveshaft is overrated, IMHO.
cabuzzi 3 years ago
Try your car at high speeds, ungoverned, first (not a recommendation to speed, mind you...). If you get an uncomfortable shimmy at 115+ mph, go to an aluminum driveshaft.
I would be more worried about the POS tires that Ford puts on the V6 before I'd worry about the driveshaft. Besides, you shouldn't be driving that fast, anyways.
cabuzzi 3 years ago
Thank you.
I actually never speed, I would hate to lose my license to the mounties, I was just wondering, anyway as you know mustangs are really not about speed are they, they are muscle cars, it is actually quite a big heavy car, at least I know I could pull a boat with four passengers uphill in the heat with the ac on at 100kph and do it all day!
79274333 3 years ago
The Mustang is actually pretty light when you compare it to other sports cars. I'm not sure what the final weight will be on the Camaro, but the top Dodges (Charger, Challenger) are all OVER 1000 LBS HEAVIER. That, is just ridiculous.
Besides, there is a lot you can do to lighten up a Mustang...
cabuzzi 3 years ago
One ton heavier.
Well that means the power to weight ratio on the mustang is one of the reasons it is relatively economical.
I don`t really like the look of the new camaro, too futuristic, the mustang I think got the balance between retro and modern about right, also I got a stick shift as I really wanted to drive the car, and we have some fantastic drives in British Columbia.
79274333 3 years ago
I bet. Must be fun out here. No shortage of nice drives in the states... but it'd be nice to be out there for a few weeks, just driving the countryside.
cabuzzi 3 years ago
If you wanted too, send me an e-mail address to my inbox, I have great pictures, and I would be interested in your opinion of my new mustang.
79274333 3 years ago
my stangs tires came with G-Forces and those are z rated they really arent bad imo
cheesepufff 3 years ago
nice ride .. good numbers for a 4.0..
700hpV6 3 years ago
Thanks, just saw yours too. I wish there was as many options for the 4.0 as the 3.8 has. Your ride is sick.
For now, I'm loving the 5.4L V8 in there now. I've run into some pretty tough stuff the last weeks.... I'm considering selling the Mustang. It breaks my heart, but the kids come first.
I'll post here if that happens, because I know a lot of people have asked me about selling in the past...
cabuzzi 3 years ago
wow .. very sorry to hear man, but I hear ya .. family first !! you can always build another car but yet I know it hurts with all the time and money invested go is hard but its for the family and thats more important ..
Thanks yes the 3.8l stock block is stronger and lots of 351W parts fits as its a copy of the ford nascar v6 motor and the 351w so most of the parts fits, she will hold up to 1,000hp at the crank and even more if the main caps are welded. i'm over at hpmustangs,com
700hpV6 3 years ago
I'll be sure to check it out!
cabuzzi 3 years ago
you can also post up your ride for sale .. there is always ppl looking to buy on hpmustangs,com
700hpV6 3 years ago
At 11 psi, I was making 364 RWHP/358 RWTQ. That was before the heads and cams.
Supercharger is the better bang for the buck. I was looking to get the most out of the car. Heads and cams are not cheap, and the install is difficult. If you're not an experienced mechanic, you will not be able to do the install yourself. I would count on AT LEAST $1000 for a shop to do the work. Probably more like $1500-2000 in labor and parts alone, not including cost of heads and cams.
cabuzzi 3 years ago
Hey Ive had my V6 for awhile and in a few months gonna start to either s/c or do the heads and cams from Super six.. I saw you wrote that you had a great tune and were running at 11 psi.. What were HP/TQ numbers. I dont know if I should go S/C or heads and cams first. Im thinking S/C.. My end goal is just to be close to 400HP as possible for a daily driver
Mixedsuccess757 3 years ago
did you sell the supercharger yet
leadfoot210 3 years ago
No. I am in the process of preparing it to sell. ATI sent me a brand new D1SC to sell with the kit, but I still need to clean some of the piping, inventory the nuts/bolts, etc... It should be ready to ship within a week. I have no firm buyer yet. If you're interested, send me a message through YouTube.
cabuzzi 3 years ago
im sure its been asked but what brand and model of supercharger did u go with?
tview07golf 3 years ago
ProCharger D1SC. Will be for sale shortly.
cabuzzi 3 years ago
I'll be very interested in your Procharger if you do sell it!
I'll PM you some questions.
HENNESSEYboss429 3 years ago
why r u selling it
allstarsmustang 3 years ago
I swapped the 4.0L V6 for a 5.4L V8. The ProCharger is made for the V6, and won't fit on the 5.4L.
cabuzzi 3 years ago
will you be selling the SSM stage 3 heads and cams too?
leadfoot210 3 years ago