Added: 4 years ago
From: ReiMonCoH
Views: 9,571
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:

All Comments (52)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • how exactly do you determine the difference between the blade and the handle? i ask because when you show it i dont really see a difference between the two.

  • Yes... When ever I poly a tanto or whatever I always oil it first. Just make sure you give it plenty of time to let the oil dry. 5-7 days anyway

  • if i wanted to use polyerithane would i have to hydrate the wood with oil first?

  • @allenblackcarp Yes. oil it and let it set fro 4-5 days. Then you could poly it

  • I use a few differant glues with hickory. For weapons I like the yellow glues. Tightbond or gorrila has a wood glue too.

  • Quick question, if I want to laminate the bokken like they do for some of the brands to make it more warping resistant, what type of glue should I use? and are there any tips for that? Or is it better to make one out of a whole wood?

  • @kelbek00 any good wood glue works fine. i like the gorilla wood glue. HOWEVER, laminated bokken just don’t have the good feel of a solid weapon. i know that there are those that like a stiff weapon with no give, but that’s not my preference. They say that them things that can give, will give. And them things that can’t give, will break

  • @linkachi256- Id be happy to make you one. Right now im backed up about 2 weeks but let me know your specs and any details you prefer. However, i also sell Grain Correct Impact Grade Hickory Bokken Blanks at the site. check it out under the Hickory Blanks tab. ensobuki.com

  • Yes yes... This burnishing with a rod to compress the fibers is basiclly what I'm doing in the "Tempering the blade" video I did. It is a big help, in the long run, to longer life with a wooden weapon.

  • The finish I prefer is a premix blend of Teak oil with mineral spirits...

  • Hi what is the finish you used

    Thanks

  • Thanks for the video tutorials rei, i do really appreciate your time spent on them. I'll try to craft some (untill i make a proper one).

  • Thanks for these Rich.

  • were can i get that kind of wood??? i saw the first part but i dint get any information ....please answer please

  • Hi, I am planning on making a sword and now watching these videos I will do hickory wood with boiled linseed oil although I need to ask... how will my sageo and the super glued on japanese style hand crossed grip affect each other?

  • dang i ment how will the (sageo and the grip) and the oiled wood affect each other...

  • 1) if you wanted to stain the wood of the Bokken, when in the process would you do it?

    2) regarding finishes, is there any finish you could use that would harden the striking edge of the 'blade' of the Bokken so that it doesn't dent or pit as much-like polyeurethane?

  • Ive been doing experiments w the English wheel on several weapons over the last few years to try to dial in a for sale weapon that is Pre Tempered.. Stay tuned..

  • Now, on hardening the Blade Yes and No. Im not aware of any fininsh that will hold up as a Hardener, But you can , essentially, Temper the wood. This is done by compressing it. Youll find after using a new weapon and it dents and then you sand it smooth and then refinish it then use it more and it dents and then you sand it and refinish it, ect. That in time, it will dent less and less. As the wood fibers compress they build up a tougher outer layer.

  • A technique taught by my sensei as taught by his Master in Japan, was with every new bokken, before finish was applied, was to burnish it with a smooth heavy steel rod, using long heavy strokes, focusing primarily on the ha edge (striking side), and fading out around the curve to the flat of the blade. This helps to pre-compress the wood fibers and prevent shock splits and dents.

    @ReiMonCoH

  • So far as staining, yes, you can. Do it before you apply oil finishes. Make sure its a water based stain and let it completely dry for 3 or 4 days before applying oil finish.

  • do u think makeing a bokken would be good for a woods project im in highschool

  • @monekyz2 .. I think it would be a good project.. You school will probably Not think it such a good idea. I went to highschool in the late 70's andearlie 80's. Then we made baseballbats, ect..today it's a differant world,, maybe a better Home project

  • um the only question i have is about the blank. when you start off how do i make the curve of it. or like is it a certain degrees of angle or does it depend on me? it would help if you made a video of that. but all this is very informative! thanks for posting! now i plan on making one of my own

  • Really nice vids! I`ll try to build my own

  • I learned from a carpenter in latinamerica to seal with water mixed with white wood glue before finishing. Could you try it out and tell me your opinion on this method. I also would like to ask you about the tip shape which is not too detailed on this series. I practice Iaido and Jojutsu so its also important to consider the whoosh of the sword, what type of tip would make the best whoosh? Have you carved shinogihi's into any bokens?

    Excellent video, I learned a lot.

  • I have prcticed The shindo Muso ryu as well, but The whoosh wasnt so much a thing..anyways, No, I have never cut the shinogi.. a good example of that kind of thing can be found at Kim Tayors site. He does that. So Far as the Tip, Kissaki, I've never that that has an effect on the whoosh, which is just air drag. It is effect, not function.

  • would you say that oak is a good wood to make a bokken from?

  • Thank You So Much for sharing! Domo Arigato Gozai Mashita!

  • thanks alot :)

  • yeah of course, ok but one last question. I should stain it then add the teak oil right? or do I mix it? or put on the oil then the stain? sry that was like three questions lol.

  • Yes, exactly..Stain then oil.. Color then finish

  • ok so ill have the color without having to paint it then?

  • ?? Oh, yes stain is a good idea..but you will still need to oil it. You understand that teak or boiled linseed oil isnt like Automotive oil, Right? These are oil finishes to keep moisture from damaging the weapon...

  • ok so no paint but what abouit an oil that makes it look black?? is there such a thing?

  • also if I can paint it what kind of paint should I use spray, wood, high gloss, no gloss,or regular house paint or are there oils that make it look black? cause thats what I want to paint it.

  • See Below..Paint Bad..Mmkay??

  • what about paint?? can you paint it if so then should you do it before or after the finish/ final sanding/finish and yeah Im lost what do you think?

  • for the handle you can just leave it unfinished

    and after a while the oil from your hands soaks in which feels great

  • No No..while i agree the oil from your hand will have benefits to the feek in the long run, by leaving it raw wood the ends will split. The end grain needs to have a proper oil in it to keep it hydrated and keep out water. The water content in your sweat will damage the wood, but, if you oil it w teak, only the oils from your hand will stay on trhe handle while allowing the water content to eveaporate...As the grain is raised and oil finish wears away, lightly sand and re-oil.

  • I'm finishing my first Bokken, thanks alot for the instructions !

  • Cool...send a pic and i'll post it on the blog if you want..

  • I will ! My sensei was very impressed !

  • I sent the pics to your email address.

  • Got um..Very Nice

  • Hay,I'm from Serbia...we don't have those kind's of oil's,what do you recommend???

    I am a carpenter,and I understood you without any problems on all the other instructions...

  • SERBIA?? Really..Cool. Well, Boiled Linseed oil works well. I like to mix it with a bit of tounge oil. about 10 to 1. (thats 1 part tounge oil)

  • Yeah, I looked it up after I made the comment and learned that lemon oil actually is not made from lemons but is a mineral oil which you said was a bad thing

  • Lemon oil?

  • Negative on the lemon oil. The high acidity NOT so good for this application. Especially if it's a furniture polish, the Wax content is no good for a bokken.

  • I have to continue to oil my bokken due to dry climate in colorado otherwise it will become parched and break

  • oil that used to put the Bokken?

  • I prefer Teak Oil. Great penetration, drys slowly and lasts a long time. Plus it has a great feel, very much like the oils out of your hand

  • I didn't finish my bokken with oil or varnish I just left it the way it was and if it should split or break I'll just go buy a new shovelstick and make a new one.

    nice series of video's, cool to see you encouraging people to make their own stuff.

    Thanks for posting this.

  • Your very welcome. But i would definalely advise putting sum type of finish on it. Hell, i even Linseed oil my shovels handles. Makes um last MUCH longer

  • this is verry cool

  • wow, amazing series!!! Thank you very much. I really can see now it`s hard work, but made with heart \(^_^)/ ありがとうございました。

  • 非常に歓迎されている

  • thank you for this

  • Cool, thanks. Nice videos.

  • Kool Series..Thanks

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more