how exactly do you determine the difference between the blade and the handle? i ask because when you show it i dont really see a difference between the two.
Quick question, if I want to laminate the bokken like they do for some of the brands to make it more warping resistant, what type of glue should I use? and are there any tips for that? Or is it better to make one out of a whole wood?
@kelbek00 any good wood glue works fine. i like the gorilla wood glue. HOWEVER, laminated bokken just don’t have the good feel of a solid weapon. i know that there are those that like a stiff weapon with no give, but that’s not my preference. They say that them things that can give, will give. And them things that can’t give, will break
@linkachi256- Id be happy to make you one. Right now im backed up about 2 weeks but let me know your specs and any details you prefer. However, i also sell Grain Correct Impact Grade Hickory Bokken Blanks at the site. check it out under the Hickory Blanks tab. ensobuki.com
Yes yes... This burnishing with a rod to compress the fibers is basiclly what I'm doing in the "Tempering the blade" video I did. It is a big help, in the long run, to longer life with a wooden weapon.
Hi, I am planning on making a sword and now watching these videos I will do hickory wood with boiled linseed oil although I need to ask... how will my sageo and the super glued on japanese style hand crossed grip affect each other?
1) if you wanted to stain the wood of the Bokken, when in the process would you do it?
2) regarding finishes, is there any finish you could use that would harden the striking edge of the 'blade' of the Bokken so that it doesn't dent or pit as much-like polyeurethane?
Ive been doing experiments w the English wheel on several weapons over the last few years to try to dial in a for sale weapon that is Pre Tempered.. Stay tuned..
Now, on hardening the Blade Yes and No. Im not aware of any fininsh that will hold up as a Hardener, But you can , essentially, Temper the wood. This is done by compressing it. Youll find after using a new weapon and it dents and then you sand it smooth and then refinish it then use it more and it dents and then you sand it and refinish it, ect. That in time, it will dent less and less. As the wood fibers compress they build up a tougher outer layer.
A technique taught by my sensei as taught by his Master in Japan, was with every new bokken, before finish was applied, was to burnish it with a smooth heavy steel rod, using long heavy strokes, focusing primarily on the ha edge (striking side), and fading out around the curve to the flat of the blade. This helps to pre-compress the wood fibers and prevent shock splits and dents.
So far as staining, yes, you can. Do it before you apply oil finishes. Make sure its a water based stain and let it completely dry for 3 or 4 days before applying oil finish.
@monekyz2 .. I think it would be a good project.. You school will probably Not think it such a good idea. I went to highschool in the late 70's andearlie 80's. Then we made baseballbats, ect..today it's a differant world,, maybe a better Home project
um the only question i have is about the blank. when you start off how do i make the curve of it. or like is it a certain degrees of angle or does it depend on me? it would help if you made a video of that. but all this is very informative! thanks for posting! now i plan on making one of my own
I learned from a carpenter in latinamerica to seal with water mixed with white wood glue before finishing. Could you try it out and tell me your opinion on this method. I also would like to ask you about the tip shape which is not too detailed on this series. I practice Iaido and Jojutsu so its also important to consider the whoosh of the sword, what type of tip would make the best whoosh? Have you carved shinogihi's into any bokens?
I have prcticed The shindo Muso ryu as well, but The whoosh wasnt so much a thing..anyways, No, I have never cut the shinogi.. a good example of that kind of thing can be found at Kim Tayors site. He does that. So Far as the Tip, Kissaki, I've never that that has an effect on the whoosh, which is just air drag. It is effect, not function.
yeah of course, ok but one last question. I should stain it then add the teak oil right? or do I mix it? or put on the oil then the stain? sry that was like three questions lol.
?? Oh, yes stain is a good idea..but you will still need to oil it. You understand that teak or boiled linseed oil isnt like Automotive oil, Right? These are oil finishes to keep moisture from damaging the weapon...
also if I can paint it what kind of paint should I use spray, wood, high gloss, no gloss,or regular house paint or are there oils that make it look black? cause thats what I want to paint it.
No No..while i agree the oil from your hand will have benefits to the feek in the long run, by leaving it raw wood the ends will split. The end grain needs to have a proper oil in it to keep it hydrated and keep out water. The water content in your sweat will damage the wood, but, if you oil it w teak, only the oils from your hand will stay on trhe handle while allowing the water content to eveaporate...As the grain is raised and oil finish wears away, lightly sand and re-oil.
Yeah, I looked it up after I made the comment and learned that lemon oil actually is not made from lemons but is a mineral oil which you said was a bad thing
Negative on the lemon oil. The high acidity NOT so good for this application. Especially if it's a furniture polish, the Wax content is no good for a bokken.
I didn't finish my bokken with oil or varnish I just left it the way it was and if it should split or break I'll just go buy a new shovelstick and make a new one.
nice series of video's, cool to see you encouraging people to make their own stuff.
Your very welcome. But i would definalely advise putting sum type of finish on it. Hell, i even Linseed oil my shovels handles. Makes um last MUCH longer
how exactly do you determine the difference between the blade and the handle? i ask because when you show it i dont really see a difference between the two.
liLightaura 1 week ago
Yes... When ever I poly a tanto or whatever I always oil it first. Just make sure you give it plenty of time to let the oil dry. 5-7 days anyway
ReiMonCoH 6 months ago
if i wanted to use polyerithane would i have to hydrate the wood with oil first?
allenblackcarp 6 months ago
@allenblackcarp Yes. oil it and let it set fro 4-5 days. Then you could poly it
ReiMonCoH 5 days ago
I use a few differant glues with hickory. For weapons I like the yellow glues. Tightbond or gorrila has a wood glue too.
ReiMonCoH 10 months ago
Quick question, if I want to laminate the bokken like they do for some of the brands to make it more warping resistant, what type of glue should I use? and are there any tips for that? Or is it better to make one out of a whole wood?
kelbek00 10 months ago
@kelbek00 any good wood glue works fine. i like the gorilla wood glue. HOWEVER, laminated bokken just don’t have the good feel of a solid weapon. i know that there are those that like a stiff weapon with no give, but that’s not my preference. They say that them things that can give, will give. And them things that can’t give, will break
ReiMonCoH 5 days ago
@linkachi256- Id be happy to make you one. Right now im backed up about 2 weeks but let me know your specs and any details you prefer. However, i also sell Grain Correct Impact Grade Hickory Bokken Blanks at the site. check it out under the Hickory Blanks tab. ensobuki.com
ReiMonCoH 11 months ago
Yes yes... This burnishing with a rod to compress the fibers is basiclly what I'm doing in the "Tempering the blade" video I did. It is a big help, in the long run, to longer life with a wooden weapon.
ReiMonCoH 1 year ago
The finish I prefer is a premix blend of Teak oil with mineral spirits...
ReiMonCoH 1 year ago
Hi what is the finish you used
Thanks
tommydadogz 1 year ago
Thanks for the video tutorials rei, i do really appreciate your time spent on them. I'll try to craft some (untill i make a proper one).
ilcamminodipacs 1 year ago
Thanks for these Rich.
MichaelLorenger 1 year ago
were can i get that kind of wood??? i saw the first part but i dint get any information ....please answer please
tonygfactory09 1 year ago
Hi, I am planning on making a sword and now watching these videos I will do hickory wood with boiled linseed oil although I need to ask... how will my sageo and the super glued on japanese style hand crossed grip affect each other?
hexagoncubez 2 years ago
dang i ment how will the (sageo and the grip) and the oiled wood affect each other...
hexagoncubez 2 years ago
1) if you wanted to stain the wood of the Bokken, when in the process would you do it?
2) regarding finishes, is there any finish you could use that would harden the striking edge of the 'blade' of the Bokken so that it doesn't dent or pit as much-like polyeurethane?
zeroswings2 2 years ago
Ive been doing experiments w the English wheel on several weapons over the last few years to try to dial in a for sale weapon that is Pre Tempered.. Stay tuned..
ReiMonCoH 2 years ago
Now, on hardening the Blade Yes and No. Im not aware of any fininsh that will hold up as a Hardener, But you can , essentially, Temper the wood. This is done by compressing it. Youll find after using a new weapon and it dents and then you sand it smooth and then refinish it then use it more and it dents and then you sand it and refinish it, ect. That in time, it will dent less and less. As the wood fibers compress they build up a tougher outer layer.
ReiMonCoH 2 years ago
A technique taught by my sensei as taught by his Master in Japan, was with every new bokken, before finish was applied, was to burnish it with a smooth heavy steel rod, using long heavy strokes, focusing primarily on the ha edge (striking side), and fading out around the curve to the flat of the blade. This helps to pre-compress the wood fibers and prevent shock splits and dents.
@ReiMonCoH
zreiser 1 year ago
So far as staining, yes, you can. Do it before you apply oil finishes. Make sure its a water based stain and let it completely dry for 3 or 4 days before applying oil finish.
ReiMonCoH 2 years ago
do u think makeing a bokken would be good for a woods project im in highschool
monekyz2 2 years ago
@monekyz2 .. I think it would be a good project.. You school will probably Not think it such a good idea. I went to highschool in the late 70's andearlie 80's. Then we made baseballbats, ect..today it's a differant world,, maybe a better Home project
ReiMonCoH 1 year ago
um the only question i have is about the blank. when you start off how do i make the curve of it. or like is it a certain degrees of angle or does it depend on me? it would help if you made a video of that. but all this is very informative! thanks for posting! now i plan on making one of my own
pc617 2 years ago
Really nice vids! I`ll try to build my own
tiagosolo 2 years ago
I learned from a carpenter in latinamerica to seal with water mixed with white wood glue before finishing. Could you try it out and tell me your opinion on this method. I also would like to ask you about the tip shape which is not too detailed on this series. I practice Iaido and Jojutsu so its also important to consider the whoosh of the sword, what type of tip would make the best whoosh? Have you carved shinogihi's into any bokens?
Excellent video, I learned a lot.
fmn2628 2 years ago
I have prcticed The shindo Muso ryu as well, but The whoosh wasnt so much a thing..anyways, No, I have never cut the shinogi.. a good example of that kind of thing can be found at Kim Tayors site. He does that. So Far as the Tip, Kissaki, I've never that that has an effect on the whoosh, which is just air drag. It is effect, not function.
DmakAttack 2 years ago
would you say that oak is a good wood to make a bokken from?
kakashi1578 2 years ago
Thank You So Much for sharing! Domo Arigato Gozai Mashita!
AutomataAristotelico 2 years ago
thanks alot :)
dragon93092 2 years ago
yeah of course, ok but one last question. I should stain it then add the teak oil right? or do I mix it? or put on the oil then the stain? sry that was like three questions lol.
dragon93092 2 years ago
Yes, exactly..Stain then oil.. Color then finish
ReiMonCoH 2 years ago
ok so ill have the color without having to paint it then?
dragon93092 2 years ago
?? Oh, yes stain is a good idea..but you will still need to oil it. You understand that teak or boiled linseed oil isnt like Automotive oil, Right? These are oil finishes to keep moisture from damaging the weapon...
ReiMonCoH 2 years ago
ok so no paint but what abouit an oil that makes it look black?? is there such a thing?
dragon93092 2 years ago
also if I can paint it what kind of paint should I use spray, wood, high gloss, no gloss,or regular house paint or are there oils that make it look black? cause thats what I want to paint it.
dragon93092 2 years ago
See Below..Paint Bad..Mmkay??
ReiMonCoH 2 years ago
what about paint?? can you paint it if so then should you do it before or after the finish/ final sanding/finish and yeah Im lost what do you think?
dragon93092 2 years ago
for the handle you can just leave it unfinished
and after a while the oil from your hands soaks in which feels great
nprules 2 years ago
No No..while i agree the oil from your hand will have benefits to the feek in the long run, by leaving it raw wood the ends will split. The end grain needs to have a proper oil in it to keep it hydrated and keep out water. The water content in your sweat will damage the wood, but, if you oil it w teak, only the oils from your hand will stay on trhe handle while allowing the water content to eveaporate...As the grain is raised and oil finish wears away, lightly sand and re-oil.
ReiMonCoH 2 years ago
I'm finishing my first Bokken, thanks alot for the instructions !
sethdesade 2 years ago
Cool...send a pic and i'll post it on the blog if you want..
ReiMonCoH 2 years ago
I will ! My sensei was very impressed !
sethdesade 2 years ago
I sent the pics to your email address.
sethdesade 2 years ago
Got um..Very Nice
ReiMonCoH 2 years ago
Hay,I'm from Serbia...we don't have those kind's of oil's,what do you recommend???
I am a carpenter,and I understood you without any problems on all the other instructions...
Lamaki666 2 years ago
SERBIA?? Really..Cool. Well, Boiled Linseed oil works well. I like to mix it with a bit of tounge oil. about 10 to 1. (thats 1 part tounge oil)
DmakAttack 2 years ago
Yeah, I looked it up after I made the comment and learned that lemon oil actually is not made from lemons but is a mineral oil which you said was a bad thing
thechoreographer 3 years ago
Lemon oil?
thechoreographer 3 years ago
Negative on the lemon oil. The high acidity NOT so good for this application. Especially if it's a furniture polish, the Wax content is no good for a bokken.
ReiMonCoH 3 years ago
I have to continue to oil my bokken due to dry climate in colorado otherwise it will become parched and break
thechoreographer 3 years ago
oil that used to put the Bokken?
clorsa 3 years ago
I prefer Teak Oil. Great penetration, drys slowly and lasts a long time. Plus it has a great feel, very much like the oils out of your hand
ReiMonCoH 3 years ago
I didn't finish my bokken with oil or varnish I just left it the way it was and if it should split or break I'll just go buy a new shovelstick and make a new one.
nice series of video's, cool to see you encouraging people to make their own stuff.
Thanks for posting this.
kometsky 3 years ago
Your very welcome. But i would definalely advise putting sum type of finish on it. Hell, i even Linseed oil my shovels handles. Makes um last MUCH longer
ReiMonCoH 3 years ago
this is verry cool
1995marinus 3 years ago
wow, amazing series!!! Thank you very much. I really can see now it`s hard work, but made with heart \(^_^)/ ありがとうございました。
luisa82c 3 years ago
非常に歓迎されている
ReiMonCoH 3 years ago
thank you for this
kx3clock 3 years ago
Cool, thanks. Nice videos.
jaugustm 3 years ago 2
Kool Series..Thanks
Frostwolf223 3 years ago