retro fitting a mini-z board into the Xmod is probably the best upgrade you can do to it. Is it worth it? IMO cost wise, no, i recommend the Mini-Z any day if putting money into it. These were all done from parts left over from upgrading mini-z's so we didn't buy the PC boards. Xmod 50$ + bearings 20$ + mini-z board 75$ = 140$. Mini-Z ready set 99-130$ + bearings 6$ = 105-136$. So over all the Mini-Z is cheaper and a much better car. Well worth it if you want a better Xmod though...
ops my mistake i though you had Fe magnets and those will increase the motors amp draw. am sorry to say that no i do not believe it can achieve 50 mph if it is not sitting on a speed checker. I would be most happy to radar it for you (if you lived next door)am afraid that is the only way you can convince me...also am not sure that you would not fry a Chili run continuously for 20 minutes. The chili is built for it though $50, 25$ to 'make' a plasma/atomic, is asking for a melt down big time.
dude the best motor in the world is a lspe2 it does 50+mph and neo mags hand wound you know...pulls 30 amps under load and that is on li-po on normal batteries it pulls i think just under 25
lots a amps in a 130 can motor! I still have a standing challenge...my Revo 3.3 dose around 45 mph, (know this because i have a radar gun) any 50+ mph Xmod / zmod is welcome to see if they can best it in a drag race! any takers? :D
dude, that is an awesome setup, though a longer course would be more interesting....and what is your opinion about xmod vs mini-z, with a hobby electric upgrade is there any major advantage that the mini-z has?
e thanks you for the complement on his set up. there is more track to be added in the near future. IMO Xmods are hobby class cars where as mini-z's are hobby grade. with the mini-z board they are greatly improved but still Xmods, they 'need' be upgraded with alloy parts. Mini-z's now have 2.4 gig guidance and there is no comparison once you dive that. you might could put in the 2.4 gig conversion. and even if it works the mini-z is a 'tighter' car.
ummm yes actually i have, my ford f-150 with lithium, plamatomic, full bearings, 4 alloy knuckles, and a full hobby grade upgrade, it said 50 on the speed checker and it had enough torque to reach that in real life, unfortunately the motor burnt up after about 20 minutes.....
guy in our club has an F150 like that and he actually brought his speed checker this week, stock mini-z's were getting about 26. his Xmod its Li PO and v2 equipped with all the alloy and that, said it was doing 45+ and the motor is still going strong. I have seen them go that fast on the speed checker but have yet to have one do it on radar. as a tool the speed checker is great, but does not offer real on road friction resistance or wind resistance...
well, i was running li ion and with a hobby grade esc the amperage was way higher than the motors capabilities were, i was running a esc meant for 1/12 scale cars, i do not have a radar so it is possible that it was not quite running to full speed, i have no idea how many amps it takes to fry a plasmatomic though......
I C, J's Li-PO V2 Chili Xmod is used regularly and still going strong, my guess then would be it takes some what less amperage to toast a plasma/atomic than an Atomic Chili...
additional notes here, the esc is in more danger of frying because of the motor than the other way around. not sure of the intended use of a plasma/atomic and what version yours was the neo magnet or the ferrite. am pretty sure it is intended for 4 cell modified class cars, and is why it fried under Li ion power. both J and I have the Atomic Chili which is better suited to that kind of use than a hacked can swapped arm motor. This motor will kill an UN FET ed cars 'esc'! note the v2 is a hg esc
hmm, i was under the impression that it was the amp output of the motor that had the ability to fry electronic, a plasmatomic motor runs about 2 full amps which destroys stock fets, however i am running a 90 amp esc so i would be surprised if it fried.......ps i was running neo magnets with a ball bearing case and carbon brushes.....
something like that, motors consume amps and its that current draw that cooks electronics/motors.
my 4 cell MA10 is a 36 amp car so it can safely pass up to 36 amps of current to a motor, not that it will unless shorted out. you might not of fry-ed that motor if it had neo magnets and better brushes. you can weld with 40 amps of current so and should instantly fry any mini class motor... you didn't say how much voltage your throwing at it either...not surprised it only lasted 20 minutes.
hmmmm well i did have neo's and it lasted about 20 minutes, that is true, i was running a 7.4 volt lithium ion battery, however the were 4-5 years old so the current had probably dwindled sown quite a bit......they were cells that looked like AA except about 1.5 times the length. so do you believe it would hit 50 now? (mostly a roll durability test vehicle lol)
well how it works is that the motor pulls amps from the electronics. if the electronics can't provide enough, it strains itself too much trying to pass all that current to the motor. then it fries the fets
looks like fun. i like the loong straight, but the rest looks like it would get a little old after a few laps.. im guessing its cramped in the basement?
suppose it would get old if you can't drive...these are our 'toys',the mini-z's are the serious race cars. the infield is set up as a technical section and is supposed to be challenging. it's not cramped, e has a huge basement, all you see is the back wall, what you don't see is the pit area and then some... and e plans on adding even more track. some might say the straight is way too long, allowing too much time to be made up on cars in the infield, as far as close racing is concerned.
hmm, im an owner of 14 xmods, and with lithium, some hobby grade electrics, and a different motor they go 40mph, insanely fast. i guess thats true on mini-z's as well. So, an xmod with hobby electrics, all aluminum drivetrain and ceeramic bearings, wouold it still be outclassed by the mini-z?
I own 13. lets see a Li PO x mod vs a 4 cell mini z, drag race, you win. 4 cell stock racing against, say my 2.4 gig mini z with ceramic bearings, ceramic ball diff vs an x-z converted xmod, don't think it will catch me. plan on doing an fet upgrade on it soon, from the stock stack to aberrant nabs...have you ever seen an xmod actually do 40 mph running and not sitting on a speed checker?...i also have a radar gun.
nice track
tomagotchii 2 years ago
I seen in your headline you say that its a z-xmod do the interals and radio make it preform better? How much and is it worth it?
mickilBunz 3 years ago
retro fitting a mini-z board into the Xmod is probably the best upgrade you can do to it. Is it worth it? IMO cost wise, no, i recommend the Mini-Z any day if putting money into it. These were all done from parts left over from upgrading mini-z's so we didn't buy the PC boards. Xmod 50$ + bearings 20$ + mini-z board 75$ = 140$. Mini-Z ready set 99-130$ + bearings 6$ = 105-136$. So over all the Mini-Z is cheaper and a much better car. Well worth it if you want a better Xmod though...
iltsonitm 3 years ago
ops my mistake i though you had Fe magnets and those will increase the motors amp draw. am sorry to say that no i do not believe it can achieve 50 mph if it is not sitting on a speed checker. I would be most happy to radar it for you (if you lived next door)am afraid that is the only way you can convince me...also am not sure that you would not fry a Chili run continuously for 20 minutes. The chili is built for it though $50, 25$ to 'make' a plasma/atomic, is asking for a melt down big time.
iltsonitm 3 years ago
dude the best motor in the world is a lspe2 it does 50+mph and neo mags hand wound you know...pulls 30 amps under load and that is on li-po on normal batteries it pulls i think just under 25
2x6stackedfets 3 years ago
lots a amps in a 130 can motor! I still have a standing challenge...my Revo 3.3 dose around 45 mph, (know this because i have a radar gun) any 50+ mph Xmod / zmod is welcome to see if they can best it in a drag race! any takers? :D
iltsonitm 3 years ago
i figure you will beat me in a drag.but a race is more my style lol i would win
2x6stackedfets 3 years ago
guess you mean on a RCP track? either way, have you seen a Revo? when it catches you...race over :D
iltsonitm 3 years ago
dude, that is an awesome setup, though a longer course would be more interesting....and what is your opinion about xmod vs mini-z, with a hobby electric upgrade is there any major advantage that the mini-z has?
wizard0ne0 3 years ago
e thanks you for the complement on his set up. there is more track to be added in the near future. IMO Xmods are hobby class cars where as mini-z's are hobby grade. with the mini-z board they are greatly improved but still Xmods, they 'need' be upgraded with alloy parts. Mini-z's now have 2.4 gig guidance and there is no comparison once you dive that. you might could put in the 2.4 gig conversion. and even if it works the mini-z is a 'tighter' car.
iltsonitm 3 years ago
ummm yes actually i have, my ford f-150 with lithium, plamatomic, full bearings, 4 alloy knuckles, and a full hobby grade upgrade, it said 50 on the speed checker and it had enough torque to reach that in real life, unfortunately the motor burnt up after about 20 minutes.....
wizard0ne0 3 years ago
guy in our club has an F150 like that and he actually brought his speed checker this week, stock mini-z's were getting about 26. his Xmod its Li PO and v2 equipped with all the alloy and that, said it was doing 45+ and the motor is still going strong. I have seen them go that fast on the speed checker but have yet to have one do it on radar. as a tool the speed checker is great, but does not offer real on road friction resistance or wind resistance...
iltsonitm 3 years ago
well, i was running li ion and with a hobby grade esc the amperage was way higher than the motors capabilities were, i was running a esc meant for 1/12 scale cars, i do not have a radar so it is possible that it was not quite running to full speed, i have no idea how many amps it takes to fry a plasmatomic though......
wizard0ne0 3 years ago
I C, J's Li-PO V2 Chili Xmod is used regularly and still going strong, my guess then would be it takes some what less amperage to toast a plasma/atomic than an Atomic Chili...
iltsonitm 3 years ago
additional notes here, the esc is in more danger of frying because of the motor than the other way around. not sure of the intended use of a plasma/atomic and what version yours was the neo magnet or the ferrite. am pretty sure it is intended for 4 cell modified class cars, and is why it fried under Li ion power. both J and I have the Atomic Chili which is better suited to that kind of use than a hacked can swapped arm motor. This motor will kill an UN FET ed cars 'esc'! note the v2 is a hg esc
iltsonitm 3 years ago
hmm, i was under the impression that it was the amp output of the motor that had the ability to fry electronic, a plasmatomic motor runs about 2 full amps which destroys stock fets, however i am running a 90 amp esc so i would be surprised if it fried.......ps i was running neo magnets with a ball bearing case and carbon brushes.....
wizard0ne0 3 years ago
something like that, motors consume amps and its that current draw that cooks electronics/motors.
my 4 cell MA10 is a 36 amp car so it can safely pass up to 36 amps of current to a motor, not that it will unless shorted out. you might not of fry-ed that motor if it had neo magnets and better brushes. you can weld with 40 amps of current so and should instantly fry any mini class motor... you didn't say how much voltage your throwing at it either...not surprised it only lasted 20 minutes.
iltsonitm 3 years ago
hmmmm well i did have neo's and it lasted about 20 minutes, that is true, i was running a 7.4 volt lithium ion battery, however the were 4-5 years old so the current had probably dwindled sown quite a bit......they were cells that looked like AA except about 1.5 times the length. so do you believe it would hit 50 now? (mostly a roll durability test vehicle lol)
wizard0ne0 3 years ago
well how it works is that the motor pulls amps from the electronics. if the electronics can't provide enough, it strains itself too much trying to pass all that current to the motor. then it fries the fets
xmdrifter 3 years ago
looks like fun. i like the loong straight, but the rest looks like it would get a little old after a few laps.. im guessing its cramped in the basement?
branefart 3 years ago
suppose it would get old if you can't drive...these are our 'toys',the mini-z's are the serious race cars. the infield is set up as a technical section and is supposed to be challenging. it's not cramped, e has a huge basement, all you see is the back wall, what you don't see is the pit area and then some... and e plans on adding even more track. some might say the straight is way too long, allowing too much time to be made up on cars in the infield, as far as close racing is concerned.
iltsonitm 3 years ago
hmm, im an owner of 14 xmods, and with lithium, some hobby grade electrics, and a different motor they go 40mph, insanely fast. i guess thats true on mini-z's as well. So, an xmod with hobby electrics, all aluminum drivetrain and ceeramic bearings, wouold it still be outclassed by the mini-z?
wizard0ne0 3 years ago
I own 13. lets see a Li PO x mod vs a 4 cell mini z, drag race, you win. 4 cell stock racing against, say my 2.4 gig mini z with ceramic bearings, ceramic ball diff vs an x-z converted xmod, don't think it will catch me. plan on doing an fet upgrade on it soon, from the stock stack to aberrant nabs...have you ever seen an xmod actually do 40 mph running and not sitting on a speed checker?...i also have a radar gun.
iltsonitm 3 years ago