Added: 3 years ago
From: Tapps47
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  • is making your own black powder leagal?

  • @MrDannysuzy if you are old enough. but its not for everyone. it can be dangerous.

  • not a bad group, nice gun and no nonsense advice from you too, thanks.

  • @lenthesniper Thanks. I (Darr) believe guns don't have to be complicated. Many people make it more so and i have no idea why.

  • i like the gun and the video a lot! i also like how you cover what needs to be covered yet keep it simple in your videos.

  • @busyhands94 thanks don't forget to subscribe. we will be doing more gun videos in the next few weeks.

  • awesome! i like how you do videos on the snake eyes pistol and the 1858 Remmy as well as modern firearms. i really appreciate it when people not only pay attention to their modern cartridge firearms but also muzzleloading guns. i actually feel more confident with a cap and ball revolver than a modern firearm. all the firearms i own are blackpowder guns simply because that is what i enjoy shooting the most. and i have already subscribed! :) stay safe and God bless America ~Levi

  • you should do a video demonstrating the power of this revolver, that would be really interesting! you could shoot soda cans with water in them, water filled milk jugs, oranges, 2X4 boards to show how far it goes into wood, and other fun stuff like that! i really like this revolver and i have decided to buy myself a kit version of this gun and make myself a nice sidearm!

  • i cant beleive you would clean a weapon with water

  • @pyfullback40 Yes that whats works best with black powder guns.

  • @Tapps47 one of the best things about blackpowder shooting is you don't need to but solvents! and no fumes either!

  • @pyfullback40 Water is what you use to clean black powder guns. It's been used for hundreds of years.

  • Great Video Man! Just one question. We need to remove the nipples for clean?Or just hot water is enough?Thanks for all the tips in the video!

  • @CaravanTirana well, if you don't take care of the threads, they will rust. so i would advise taking the nipples off, cleaning them and the inside outside threads at least ever other time. but that also depends on how you are storing the pistol between shootings. put some oil on the threads before you put them back in.

    also, take them out and clean the chambers before you shoot the pistol again as oil can cause a dead charge if left in the end of the chamber where the nipples go.

  • Nice video! I have the same pistol and it's sweep

  • I like your videos, man. You don't make anything complicated, you say everything nice and simple, like your hand loading video.

  • @itachi1303 Thanks, I see many owners making cleaning and owning guns harder than it has to be. Using products that are not necessary and doing things that are not necessary . They read in magazines that you must have this or that and then run right out to buy it. I like to keep things simple, I want to spend more time shooting and less time worrying about how cool my rifle or pistol looks. I go for simplicity and functionality.

  • is your shooting affected by not using the wads?

  • @campbellbeadles Nope not using the wads has no effect on accuracy. But, i does increase the chance without oil or something over the ball of a multi-discharge.

  • how do i safely remove an unfired shot without firing it?

  • @darkshadow916 well, the best way is to fire it. but not being able to do that. then there are two methods, one you use a ball remover. its a threaded tip on a cleaning rod that you force thread into the ball and pull out. Always make shre you pull the nipple and get the powder out first.

    The second way is to remove the nipple like above and get the powder out. then incert a rod and pound the ball out through the front from where the nipple was. Both methods are hard to do.

  • living in Brooklyn as a teen many friends of mine who carried modern autos in their lunchboxes all said the same thing when I first showed them my (brass) CVA revolver--that it was the most impressive looking gun they had ever seen. Photos and video do not convey fully the beauty of this weapon

  • @McBears1 cool, I never-cared for the brass frame revolvers. all of the ones i had owned had soft brass frames. which over time, meant that the brash would mash from firing making the barrel to cylinder gap larger and making the gun harder to rotate. Its possible you have a better one although i have never seen a good brass frame BP pistol. I only buy steel frame ones now.

  • @Tapps47 The older brass Rems were a little weak. The current Pietta brassers are beefier.There is a kid on youtube who has been firing 30 grains in his, and the cylinder-to-barrel gap hasn't widened. I would keep the load under 25 grains in a brasser though.

  • @whenvaporsvanish I have to disagree with you on the brass frame revolvers. Brass is inherently softer than iron and way softer than good gun steel. i have owned them (a total of 5) ranging from Euro-arms, Navy Arms.Uberti and EMF. most .44 -45s can hold 38 grains of black powder. shoot that in the Pietta and see if it doesn't mash the brass

  • how did you make that powder measure i know that its pistol brass of

    some sort

  • @camerl2009 I cut down a 45 long colt cartridge as i recall. i have had that scoop for years. like 35 years. but thats what i recall it was.

  • will .440 work?

  • @coltperc Again i have to disagree at least in part. My CVA is not made by Pietta. Nowhere on the gun does it say made by Pietta. It does say made by CVA.

    I tried using a conical in my revolver and its worse than using .454s as they get hard to load from the start. I don't recommend it for anyone unless you have a BP revolver that allows for such type.

  • @Tapps47 CVA never manufactured these. They imported them from Armi San Marco (now defunct) in Italy. Yours looks like a good one. Not all ASMs were good.

  • @whitethronebooks I knew that CVA imported barrels from Spain, but never a revolver from Itally. good info. Now i can't downplay really assume that only some ASMs are good or bad. The reason is that This ASM had problems mainly because i bought the gun used and it was abused a bit by its former owner(s).

  • Good basic video on percussion revolver loading, shooting & cleaning. I've cleaned my revolvers precisely the same way for 35 years now.

    Two small critiques.

    The lube over the ball is used to soften black powder fouing in the bore, is not chain fire protection. Chain fire protection is using a properly-oversized ball, typically a .454" ball rammed into a ..450" chamber.

    Using a naural oil, such as Olive, peanut, etc. for lubing wil lessen cylinder arbor freeze.

  • @coltperc Sorry to disagree, i have an old Black powder manual which states "fill the area over the ball with Crisco shortening to prevent chain firing." this was before the advent of other lubricants.

    Also if you load a .454 in a .450 chamber you get really hard loading after several shots, i have seen people break their loading rods on their BP revolvers doing this. With a .450 chamber size your supposed to use a .451-.452 round ball max. .451 is the standard.

  • @coltperc Try finding .457s round balls as an example. .451 has become the standard size.

    Glad you like the video....

  • Tapps47, Cabela's lists .451, .454 and .457 balls on their site.

    The .451 will work in my Pietta replica, but I use the .454's as they seem to group a bit tighter. The .454 shears off a tiny bit larger lead ring while loading, but with the soft lead I can't feel any difference in loading them.

    A friend casts the Lee conicals talked about earlier, and pre-greases them in beeswax. MUCH easier to load than balls with grease!

    The conicals are VERY accurate and hit very hard, believe me!

  • @63DW89 I am saying is the .451s are more of a common round ball size. Your gun must have a chamber greater than .477. mic it and see. I also broke the loading rod using .454s in my CVA loading them. (fixed it easy).

    Are you using a loading stand or other bullet type press to load your chambers?

    I've tried to shoot .450s conicals in my CVA they are way to hard to load by hand. If you can load them more power to you. I am speaking about the CVA not other gun manufacturers so keep that in mind.

  • Tapps47, I normally just load the revolver in my hands, with the loading lever.

    My bullet casting friend (BC for short!) miked our Remington replicas. His Uberti chambers are just a bit above 0.450". My Pietta chambers are just a bit below 0.447". The Lee Conical loads easy in both guns, and mikes 0.455" at the nose junction above the top grease groove, 0.450" on the band between the grooves, and 0.442" on the base below the lower grease groove.

  • @63DW89 Theres no way I would shoot the .455s in my CVA. But it also depends on your gun. Not all replicas are created the same from maker to maker.

    In my personal experience, its always better to stay with what the manufacturer's recommendation is. all to often people try to one up on what is standard loading with the result sooner or later of a broken pistol or injury.

    I'm glad what your doing works for you BUT, i don't recommend it to others.

  • I had to come back and watch this one again! I have an 1860 Army on order, can't wait to shoot it.

    I clean my Remington revolver and BP rifles the same way. Just water, no solvents. I don't know why some people people make such a fuss over it. I think black powder guns are easier to clean than smokeless cartridge guns. The main drawback is that you can't get away with not cleaning them.

  • @AwakeAndDangerous

    Yeah i have no idea, some ppl just are bored and like to clean, or like to keep their BP guns immaculate. me i want to shoot them and spend less time cleaning.

  • I was under the impression that water dissolved powder residue and produced a mild acid, which isn't very good for the gun.

  • @halfassedfart Moisture creates a mild acid true, but this acid isn't going to ruin your Black powder gun overnight. The metal used in modern BP guns is better quality than the old gun metal used in the originals.

    The cleaning method i suggest in the video is as good as a complete cleaning, but i also suggest (like in the video) a complete tear down ever 3-4 shooting sessions.

  • @Tapps47 so I don't have to fear for the frame itself rusting if I don't take it apart after firing only a few shots? Or can that bit of residue getting inside the frame flash rust the internal mechanisms?

  • in sted of doing the wd 40 cant u just put wadding insted?

  • As he said in the video, you could use a lubed wad if you want, but those cost money and oil is cheap. It was 10w40 motor oil that he used, by the way, not WD-40.

    Also, with maximum loads, you don't have room for a wad. If you try to use one, the ball will protrude from the cylinder and keep it from rotating.

  • Exactly. And why does he want to shoot full loads anyway.

    Full loads seem to degrade the accuracy and cause dirty(fouled) pistols quickly.

    I've never owned a revolver that really shot well with full loads.

    I urge people to start with 23 grains of black powder and work their way up to 31. most of the time you will find that around 27 is optimal. it requires you shoot allot and for awhile with each powder increase until you find that "magik" load. The load that delivers power and accuracy.

  • Good video. Thanks.

  • Were there models of these that used pre-packed paper cartridges? With the percussion caps?

  • There may have been. I think that these days prepacking loads is not only a waste of time but makes such loading dangerous.

    what many people do not tell you, is that wrapping the ball in a thin paper make sthe diameter of the ball larger. So the more you shoot and the gun gets dirty, the harder it is to reload.

    I can load all six chambers in my gun and shoot them in under 1 and a half minutes without paper cartridges.

    with real black powder speed loading is a no no.

  • Oh not now, of course, you'd opt for safety. I'm trying to do research for something I'm writing. It's set around 1853-55 and I want to make sure the weapons are accurate-to-time.

  • @blacksheepwall79, if you are still looking for information about paper cartridges, I would suggest the Dixie Gun Works catalog. I don't think the info is on their website (it might be), but their telephone-book-sized catalog has a section in the back with tons of information including history and how to make paper cartridges. They would probably be glad to give you info over the phone as well.

  • Paper cartridges were used mostly in rifles and in pistols during / after the civil war. until metal cartridges were took over.

  • so 10w40 motor oil will ALWAYS prevent a chain fire? Even up to 40 grain charges?

  • All I know is that I have been using this method for over 30 years of shooting. i have never had a multi-discharge.

    It would seem a pretty good method.

  • I didn't understand that last statement. What is a light load? And can I use Pyrodex RS instead of regular traditional Black Powder?

  • A light load is one used for target shooting. You want to Use the pistol version of pyrodex. the RS version will work but the pistol will give better preformance with the pistol Pyrodex version.

    Real black powder is ok, my preference even thoiugh I use both is still Pyrodex.

  • So then what is a heavy load used for? O and which frame for the gun is better, stainless steel or brass? And the only powder I can readily find is Pyrodex RS.

  • The heavy load would of been used for hunting or blowing holes through people.

    As for what better in frames. Stainless for the most part doesn't rust, but stainless steel if its low grade can stretch over time a tiny bit. with BP guns I don't believe its a problem. Brass is to soft to last with meduim loads, but it depends on the frame. Steele is prefered by myself for cost reasons.

    If all you can get is "RS" pyrodex, then it will have to do. You may be able to order some "P" type online.

  • Ok thank you for your help if I have any more questions I will definitely ask you.

  • So would it be possible to use heavy loads with a brass frame at all? or would i have to go steel for heavy loads? I really want an affordable bp revolver but I want one that can fire heavy loads.

  • it depends on the frame. brass is softer.

  • Cabella's sells a "nipple wrench" for about $25 that comes with 6 replacement nipples too. Before I bought that, I modified a screwdriver. I used a dremel to cut off the head and then cut down the center line about a quarter of a quarter inch. You have to work it a while to get the right width. You will have to use a good screwdriver to start with other wise the two tongs you carve out may break under stress. In most cases it is cheaper to buy the tool rather then spend an hour making it.

  • typo- I meant cut down the center line a quarter inch.

  • How high do you think you can safely take the loads without getting dangerous. I took mine up to about 50 grains (Pyrodex) and managed to shoot through about 10 gage stainless steel with the 1858 Rem.

  • I'm not sure how you are getting 50 grains in a chamber. the 1858 was designed to hold 38 grains at max as there is no more room in the chamber for powder. Modern ones hold 40-42 grains max.

    There was only one BP revolver ever made that could hold 50 grains and that was the 44 colt walker dragoon. (costs around $1500) for a replica. its known as the granddaddy of all magnums. The gun weighs 8 pounds.

  • I don't know how I did it. I did not compress it or anything. When I load up to 30 grains, the powder only comes up about half way in the cylinder. I have plenty of room for another 20 grains. Do you think that my measuring device would be off? It is pretty standard brass one from Cabella's. One I loaded it up to 50 grains, the gun sure had more kick.

  • I saw that .44 Walker magnum at Cabella's for around $400. The guy at the counter told me I could go up to about 60-70 grains on that. The Walker is from Uberti. The 1858's I am shooting now are from Pieta.

  • Forgot to mention that the Walker was a 9 shot too. I want to get it next time I am down there. They also have a very short double barrel shotgun for $500. It is a about as long as the .44. I don't know which to get first... I want them both very much.

  • Then its not a realistic version of the .44 Walker Dragoon if its a nine shot. They were 6 shot and had an 8 inch barrel. A really big handgun. they were used by early Texas rangers.

  • Interesting. Thanks. The one annoying I have noticed from watching other people shoot the Walker is the ram-rod lever often falls when the gun is shot.

  • yes i noticed that too. thants why i like the 1858 as they rarely come loose.

  • Is this an adjustable measure? or just a brass tube on the end of a power flask?

  • It is an adjustable measure. It has markings on it in increments of 10 from going up 60. I will remeasure again tonight when I get home just to be sure. I will measure out how many grains a chamber takes in order to fill all the way to the top. You can then do the same and we can see if the cylinder itself is bigger.

  • It seems I made a mistake measuring at the range. The whole chamber up to the top takes 50 grains. I probably only had 40 grains in there when I shot it. Still big difference in the kick and bang. The question still remains. Do you think it is safe to fill up the chamber to capacity? Thanks in advance for your insight.

  • Ok, so what i said about the max load is true. 40 grains and ball or you can't seat the ball on the powder.

    is your 1858 a steel frame? because the brass might be soft if its a brass frame. So shooting a lover load will save the brass and make it last longer.

    If you pistol is steel frame then you can safely shoot full loads. However, with all guns you have to weigh the power against the accuracy with a given load. Power VS Accuracy.

  • Yes, you were absolutely right about how much grain the cylinder can hold. I have a black steel frame (not stainless). Only the trigger guard is brass. I plan to do most of my shooting with 30 grains. Once in a while I will probably want to shoot at few rounds at 40 and test penetration against various targets. Thanks for all you help and advice Tapps.

  • One last thing, i find that starting at 23 grains and working to a max load of 35 works good for finding a load that is both accurate and powerful. Do this by adding one grain at a time. you may need a scale.

    Also the hardness of the lead will make a difference in penetration. However, if your bullets are to hard, they will be hard to load and impossible to load as the gun gets dirty. Never use a hammer to pound round balls into chambers.

    Oh and your welcome for the advice.

  • Since watching this video I have shot the .44 Rem on two separate days. I also bought a .32 derringer version of the 1858. The .44 is more fun to shoot. Thanks for the video it helped get me started with black powder guns. I think I like these more then modern gun shooting. You take your time loading and appreciate shooting it more.

  • If you get a chance, could you make a video showing how to completely strip down and clean as you mentioned at the end after about 4 or 5 shooting sessions. I'm afraid if I take the gun apart I won't get it back together.

  • I'm not sure how such a video will help you. my model is different. they have simular parts, bu ti can't say for sure they would be the same.

    I might make a video like this at some point. I don't know. Thanks for your comment.

  • Very informative. With re: to cleaning....instead of using a screwdriver to tap out the cylinder retaining pin, I carry a small wooden dowel about 8" long. I give it a few taps with a small hammer, and it accomplishes the same thing, but doesn't mar the finish.

  • that a good idea. My BP gun when fired alot gets very stuck. i mean almost like its glued in place. the dowel in my case would chip off down the side. The only solution there would be to soak the whole gun in water first. but i don't like getting the internal parts wet as they rust or i wil have to do extra cleaning.

    I hope someone will /can use your idea. me i have a stubborn gun (like it's owner). hahahaha :)

  • Tapps, its not your gun, the motor oil you are using is reacting with the BP fouling to make a gooey/sticky mess. Try this, clean your gun good and get some all natural Bore Butter, its not that expensive, and fill the chambers with that instead. After a few shooting sessions the metal parts will be seasoned, you will notice the BP fouling is alot less and not black and gooey and you will be able to pull the cylider pin out by hand. Plus the gun will be alot easier to clean from then on.

  • This is not the case, long before I started using the motor oil over the ball. I was using a felt wadding under the ball. this did the same amount of fouling. The pupose of my video is to show how simple it is to load, shoot and clean, Not how complicated I can make the whole process.

    When you keep it simple black powder is more enjoyable. Gone are the days for me of spending hours cleaning when its not nessessary everytime I shoot.

  • Very informational video on BP pistols.

    I use the wads when i go to the gun range just as a precaution. If u load the gun right a chain fire shouldn't happen.

  • What are you using for a powder measure there? How much does it hold?

    And also i make my own black powder too. What method do you use to granulate yours?

  • The plastic powder holder on top holds about 25 grains of powder.

    I put 5 grams of household sugar in 100 grams of blackpowder. put it in a ziplock bag and slowly add water until it is just barley wet and somewhat like doe. then i remove it from the bag and grate it on a metal household screen over newspaper. let dry. thats al you need to do if i even bother.

  • how loud is this gun? is there a lot of recoil? thanks :)

  • in the video, i shoot the gun. you can hear it being shot and see the recoil as i shoot at the target.

    Recoil is a matter of how you hold it and how much powder you put in it. I never load full charges as they are a waste and cause the gun to foul faster with less accuracy.

  • yes the recoil seemed low but the camera doesnt capture the full sound of the blast i mean ive fired guns but on the camera its way lower..

  • the best way to describe the sound is as moderate.The camera was about 10 feet away.

  • I replaced my nipples with Ruger ones they were the same thread only longer so they went into the chamber slightly.

    I use a 4 or 4.5 milimeter socket to remove the nipples. However a visegrip needle nose plyers can be used in a pinch as long as you are careful not to mess the heads of the nipples up.

  • A wadding over the ball would fall out or blow out the surrounding wadding by a discharging cylinder.

    The effort used to make the paper cartridges is a waster of time. Each loading will make the cyclinder harder to load as powder residue builds up especially if the paper isn't removed from around the ball before loading.

    I had a rifle loaded with pyrodex for over a year. No harm. Blackpowder might cause rusting. A week might be safe in any event.

  • I still prefer a drop of 10w 40 motor oil over the ball of each cylinder to prevent flashover.

    I have never had a problem using this method. Other methods are messy and costly.

  • Tapps ....I bought a CVA remington 44 new in 1974 and I too had a problem with hang fires .l also had the problem of chainfiring all cylinders twice in a row !! I was filling a grease lube over the balls as well. This arm required constant cleaning or I could not rotate the cylinder or pull the cylinder pin . Sold it for 60 dollars some years ago and would like to hv it back. Good video you hv put together .

  • I used to use years ago crisco and then later greese. I found them to be to messy for a holster. in my video i share my secret of using a drop of 10W40 motor oil ontop of a loaded round ball.

    Multiflash in the 1858 can occur also if you use the wrong size rould ball. Some may use the .454 size and not the .451 .

    some guns may actually prefer the larger ball size to make a better seal.

  • The problem with the gun's cylinder not rotating is a problem with the 1858. It begins around 18 shots. however it varies from gun to gun. It is caused by fouling being blasted/forced next to the cylinder pin.

    I found that a temp solution is to load the chambers and after you put a drop of oil over the ball, to put one at the point where the cylinder and cylinder pin meet at the front of the cylinder.

    I may make another video showing how to possibly fix or lesson the problem.

  • as for hang fires, they are most often cause by dirty nipples. or oil or water left inside the nipple. when you add fresh powder, the powder absorbes the oil and you have a charge that delays to ignite.

    Two other problem occured with my gun. 1) The nipples didn't go al the way down the chamber (they were two short).

    2) I was using lighter charges than full ones. the rammer was not ramming the ball deep enough to properly compress the powder. I like 27-30 grain charges.

  • With my gun i changed the nipples to a ruger brand as they are longer thread.

    Then I was able to modify how the rammer pushes the ball into the chamber. Making it push the ball deeper. My 1858 functions way better now but the cylinder pin fouling issue (no or heavy cylinder rotation) is a small problem.

  • Thanks Tapps..u hv some great ideas that I will use ...I broke down and ordered a new uberti 58 remy yesterday...its all ur fault lol !! after watching ur clip..I just could not resist the temptation..peace ...from your veteran rep....... .support our troops !

  • You welcome and I always support our troops.

  • What caliber is this revolver? Thanks for making this video, by the way. Looking forward to your future ones.

  • Its .44 cal. The round balls are .451. I don't think they make them in any other cal. Your welcome for the video.

  • Is it .451 or .454... or is he difference too small to matter? I just got an .44 Rem 1858 and I am doing research to figure out how this works. You video is most informative. Thanks for posting.

  • Is there anyway to unload the gun after it has been loaded?

  • After you ramrod all six chambers and come to full-cock, do you ever have to rotate the cylinder to back to bring it into perfect alignment? In testing this out, I find after I ram-rod the chambers and go to full-cock, I can still rotate the cylinder left a little and get a click. At that point it is fixed. I am worried about the chamber and barrel not aligning. Would this cause the gun to blow up?

  • If you are having to rotate the cylinder. that is a timing issue. it is normal to have a tiny amount of slop when cocked. if this amount is to much, it can cause bullet sheer. The gun however should not blow up.

    They make bullets for the 1858 in .451 and .454. .the 451 is the most common for these 44s.

  • The best way to unload it is to shoot it :) I do not recommend any other method as it may damage your 1858 rem.

  • yes you can shoot it. :) There is another way to unload, but i do not recommend it as it entails removing the nipples and driving a steel rod through the powder and pushing the ball out the front of the chamber.

    you could also put the cylinder in a vise (pad the cylinder) nd use a ball puller.

    I have never had to unload the 1858 other than shooting it empty.

    If you use pyrodex, you can keep the chamber loaded and it don't hurt nothing. I had a gun loaded for two years once.

  • At some point i will make another video.

  • i always keep coming back to this video after watching at online stores and getting shocked by actual prices.

    Are you planning on making any other videos about your 1858, Tapps? i'd love to watch them!

  • Hi Tapps. Have you ever tried yourself Pyrodex or heard anyone using it on a modern 1858 replica?

    thanks!

  • I ahve and still do use pyrodex in my guns. I just find it nastalgic to make black powder and shoot that which you make in pistols.

    I do not recommend ppl make black powder. We don't need accidents.

  • I was thinking that a steel washer of the right size may be easier than cutting the socket?

  • That will not work. A washer is to soft and thin.

  • I got my brass framed revolver yesterday! Can't wait to shoot it. Yes I know the real Navy colt was .36 cal but a .44 revolver is still nice. The paperwork says to stay at or below 25 gr of BP to avoid trouble with the frame wearing out. Does that sound right? What kinds of problems did you have with it?

  • Even when I shot lower loads of BP ther were proplems. What happens is the longer you shoot the gun the more damage is done. The brass ring where the cylinder and frame meet. (where the hand and spring turns the cylinder) gets smashed by by the cylinder.

    A result of firing. this increases your cylinder the barrel gap. decreasing the accuracy of the gun. It can if severe enough make it dangerous.

  • A fix is to buy a deep well socket that will fit the cylinders back. where the hand and spring turn it (the look like teeth). the socket should fit over the back but not to big but as close as possible.

    Next you wil make a tool that fits over the cylinder tang. (where the cylinder goes before you attach the barrel and pn)

    You ream this out below the brass. Cut the socket make a ring. flatten it with file. It becomes a perment fix. Its alot of work!

  • Nice video. I just ordered an 1851 Navy Confederate .44 Cal Revolver from Cabelas. They are on sale for $129.99. I haven't got it in the mail yet but when I do I'll be making some videos of it. It has the brass frame so I'll be watching the loads I put through it.

  • So you know the true navy revolvers were .36 cal. not .44 cal. :) What ever you do stay away from brass framed revolvers espeically those colt made of brass.

    I ahve had so much trouble with the brass framed revolvers. I did manage to create a fix for them though. But it is alot of work.

  • another big no no he loaded all 6 cylinders

  • ? you can load all six chambers on a 1858. it has the hammer notches between the cylinders. it is acceptable to load all six chambers unlike the colts BP guns.

  • When you load all six chambers, do you keep the hammer half-cocked until the gun is fired? or do you rest it down over the cap?

  • no in the video i rest the hammer in the slots between the loaded chambers.

    it was designed to do this. your if it is a good replica should have these knotches as well. if not. only load 5 and keep the hammer on that empty chamber for safety.

  • Thanks Tapps. I noticed that from half-cock when I lower the hammer, I am able to rotate the clylinder so that the hammer rests between the notches.

  • NEVER MAKE YOUR OWN BLACKPOWDER!

  • why not?

  • I owned an a Colt 1860 and Remington 1858 back in 1993 and wish i still had them. They were cheap back then ($149-$169). Both were made by LL Pietta (?). I was too lazy back then.

  • Why don't you use Crisco on the chamber mouths instead of WD-40. That way you can stay petroleum distillate free. Petroleum based cleaners,lunes are the one thing that I do not like about modern guns. They are poisonous, can cause cancer, and often smell bad (Sweet's 7.62, for example).

  • Very informative video and amazing accuracy.

    and you make your black powder yourself too!

    Black Powder guns are the utmost expression of sport shooting. Relaxed, calm, looks like a ritual.

  • I just recently found your videos. Well done. Good to see other BP dogs like myself out there:)

    I've been collecting the various makes and styles, not sure which is my favorite. Probably my T/C Hawken, but I'm pretty fond of my pistols too. I've got a few Piettas, a few Ubertis and a couple of CVAs. They're all pretty decent and I've got no complaints about any of them.

    Keep up the good video work. I'll be watching Bro :)

  • did you buy that 45 lc cyl i want to buy that gun please let me know what to do im gettin taxes back looking to get the 1858 rem how acc is it at 50 yards love..... the way you teach

  • Hey Baker:)

    Got to Cabela's website, they've got the 1858 in steel frame made by Pietta (which are doing decent these days), with the target sights for around $225 or so.

    Haven't tried my Bison at 50 yards, but it's dead on at 25. I think at 50 it's probably pretty decent too. My Dragoon does 50 okay. Either way you can get into a good BP revolver pretty easily for under $300. You will need some accessories though.

    Happy shopping :)

  • I don't know much about the Piettas except they were imported by EMF or another importer.

    In those days I had a .36 navy replica and it was great as long as i never fired more than 12 shots out of it.

    If I did it would not be acurate anymore. The fouling made it bad. I had never seen that in a BP revolver before.

    Needless to say, I don't have it anymore. MY CVA will shot great no matter how dirty it gets. iI will just hangfire some after 65 shots.

  • I hope they are better than the older ones. I see them out online alot but it seems no one else makes them. This can be good or bad.

    In the old days NAVY Arms made the best BP revolvers followed by Euror Arms (miss-spelled).

    The guns you should avoid are brass frames as the brass is soft.

    My favorite BP revolver is the .36 navy replica. If you get a good one they are very acurate. Sadly I do not have one now.

  • Yeah, Pietta used to have a bad reputation. Their workmanship has improved tremendously over the past 5 years or so. My Colt 1860 Army is Pietta made and is easily as accurate and reliable as my Uberti Dragoons. I can put about 100 rounds through it before it needs cleaning. The Remington replicas typically need cleaning after only a couple dozen rounds (no matter who the maker) due to the small cylinder axis pin as opposed to the Colt model large diameter pin.

    Happy shooting! :)

  • Forgot to add, don't know if you tried Triple Seven, but I prefer it. Slightly more expensive than BP or Pyrodex, but as hot as Pyrodex and considerably less fouling and much easier to clean than either of the others. I agree on the brass frame advice. I only got the Bison (brass frame only) because it was a deal I couldn't refuse. Long as you keep below 30 grains you won't ruin the brass frame. As with most Remingtons, the axis pin fouls after a couple dozen shots, but very accurate till then.

  • Good stuff, thanks buddy! I'm getting into these Black Powder revolvers pretty soon. Videos like this are very informative.

  • Thanks, I am glad you like the video. I tried to make an informative video. Many videos I have seen on YouTube are misleading or not complete. Thanks again.

    Tell your friends and subscribe.

  • obama wants your guns so

    say good by to your guns

  • Yes. I believe you are correct. In Ill. He voted to take guns away from the people there. Now, he is telling people that he isn't going to take gun rights away.

    Which Obama should people believe? Not the one we are seeing now. He has no reason except to get the gun owners vote to change his mind.

  • If Dumbo wants my guns he can have them, bullets first. I'd like him to personally come to my door for mine.

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