She did a great job, that's for sure! Not a great job, however, did the guys who made this comparative video. Johanna, climbing the women's superfinal route, had quite a few more holds (especially one very important one - this is indeed the crux of the women's route, however the crux of the men's route was much lower!) in the lower part of the route than Patxi and Manuel, who are climbing the men's final route. Also, this video doesn't show Adam Ondra, who climbed this route superbly to the top.
Also, the moment she leaves the wall, the rope is straight from the quickdraw to her harness, as well as when she is even with the quickdraw, I don't believe her belayer would notice fast enough to take in the slack before she fell below the draw. Again, also as she was clipping in to the same draw, (seconds earlier) the rope seems to sway a bit, much much more than when she was attempting that dyno. even simple movement can make the rope sway under little tension, yet it did not.
I don't believe so, did you see how difficult it was for her to stand up at the point right before she fell? Compared to the ease at which she was ascending the wall just feet below.
Normally, people on youtube cannot write a comment longer than four sentences. See what´s happening if a women seems to be stronger than men :D
If they had not given extra holds earlier in this route ( I am still searching in the full video for these ominous holds ;-) ) the comments would be: "No wonder, she does not have to carry all this bodyweight with her" To be honest, women cannot physically compete with men, so you have to adjust the route for them, to see who´s technically better!
Als ich vor mehr als 35 Jahren einen heftigeren Überhang klettern wollte, bekam ich zu hören, dass ich so etwas als Frau gar nicht probieren bräuchte, Frauen hätten zuwenig Kraft. Ichmuss immer wieder daran denken und freue mich jedes mal, wenn ich Frauen so toll klettern sehe.
whateves....all I kno is I can't hold on to the provided holds and apparently some of the top competitors in the world.... she did just as good as anyone else....she struggles at her level as I strugle on mine and so does everyone else
Earlier in the route, the women were given some extra holds. That made one of the features far easier for them. The men had it tougher. Two of them spent about a minute there, upside down, contorting their bodies, until they figured out what to do. Ondra passed it quickly, but only by risking a a semi-dyno on which he was not far from falling. If you really think the women can climb with the men, let them compete together, straight up. I bet none of the women could make a single final.
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
If only she would have switched her feet at the end she would have had it. Although the other two guys didnt make it that far, it just goes to show how women are inferior to men. As a famous women once said, "when the going gets tough, stop thinking"
@mh339480 I do not agree with the idea that she should have foot matched. She had a side pull on her left hand and if she did a foot match her oppositional force would have been lost. It was apparent that the right hand hold was terrible and her right arm was probably super pumped, as she attempted to do a huge toss up right. The foot match would make sense if she was going up with her left hand.
Actually, I don't see any modifications to the crux sequence ... maybe I'm just not looking close enough. Looks like there were some added holds lower down on the route (if you watch the whole super-final), but Ms. Ernst definitely works this upper crux better than Patxi! Go Johanna!!!
Yes, they`ve changed 2 or 3 holds (turned into better position) and added 1 or two holds for the feet- you can see it on the whole splitscreen-video.
But the moves are nearly similar- i think johanna is a machine!
When she was younger (12,13) i climbed with her in communal and national championchips-(i am climbing in the mens class, and i`m 6 years older), but she would have beaten me!!
She did a great job, that's for sure! Not a great job, however, did the guys who made this comparative video. Johanna, climbing the women's superfinal route, had quite a few more holds (especially one very important one - this is indeed the crux of the women's route, however the crux of the men's route was much lower!) in the lower part of the route than Patxi and Manuel, who are climbing the men's final route. Also, this video doesn't show Adam Ondra, who climbed this route superbly to the top.
anesthetize1me 1 month ago 4
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anesthetize1me 1 month ago
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anesthetize1me 1 month ago
@kerbwerkung
Also, the moment she leaves the wall, the rope is straight from the quickdraw to her harness, as well as when she is even with the quickdraw, I don't believe her belayer would notice fast enough to take in the slack before she fell below the draw. Again, also as she was clipping in to the same draw, (seconds earlier) the rope seems to sway a bit, much much more than when she was attempting that dyno. even simple movement can make the rope sway under little tension, yet it did not.
ownedbystealth 1 month ago
@kerbwirkung
I don't believe so, did you see how difficult it was for her to stand up at the point right before she fell? Compared to the ease at which she was ascending the wall just feet below.
ownedbystealth 1 month ago
Wow!
Normally, people on youtube cannot write a comment longer than four sentences. See what´s happening if a women seems to be stronger than men :D
If they had not given extra holds earlier in this route ( I am still searching in the full video for these ominous holds ;-) ) the comments would be: "No wonder, she does not have to carry all this bodyweight with her" To be honest, women cannot physically compete with men, so you have to adjust the route for them, to see who´s technically better!
Kerbwirkung 1 month ago
female technique is quite humbling
JewishFood 4 months ago
i would blame the belayer, see the tension on the rope right before she jumps, way too much
ownedbystealth 4 months ago 2
@ownedbystealth I´m not sure if it is not the ropes own weight than causes the tension...
Kerbwirkung 1 month ago
Als ich vor mehr als 35 Jahren einen heftigeren Überhang klettern wollte, bekam ich zu hören, dass ich so etwas als Frau gar nicht probieren bräuchte, Frauen hätten zuwenig Kraft. Ichmuss immer wieder daran denken und freue mich jedes mal, wenn ich Frauen so toll klettern sehe.
Heidemarie52 7 months ago
1 person don´t like this video? I think it must be a man :D
cellomar87 8 months ago
@cellomar87 lol nah i think its just the fact the women had it easier than the men so how can you compare the 2 in this video lol
jasenrhodes 3 months ago
whateves....all I kno is I can't hold on to the provided holds and apparently some of the top competitors in the world.... she did just as good as anyone else....she struggles at her level as I strugle on mine and so does everyone else
scalingtunes 9 months ago
this clip is funny because it shows that it doesnt matter how good a girl is, she will always be second after one guy! (in this case Ondra)
KalleAnkaCup99 11 months ago
She chose a much better sequence, that's about it.
Squidcor 1 year ago
Earlier in the route, the women were given some extra holds. That made one of the features far easier for them. The men had it tougher. Two of them spent about a minute there, upside down, contorting their bodies, until they figured out what to do. Ondra passed it quickly, but only by risking a a semi-dyno on which he was not far from falling. If you really think the women can climb with the men, let them compete together, straight up. I bet none of the women could make a single final.
rave44boy 1 year ago 9
This comment has received too many negative votes show
If only she would have switched her feet at the end she would have had it. Although the other two guys didnt make it that far, it just goes to show how women are inferior to men. As a famous women once said, "when the going gets tough, stop thinking"
mh339480 1 year ago
@mh339480
what the ... do you mean by inferior?
berichtausinterzone 1 year ago
@mh339480 You sir, are a cunt.
ixGeminixi 1 year ago 10
@mh339480 I do not agree with the idea that she should have foot matched. She had a side pull on her left hand and if she did a foot match her oppositional force would have been lost. It was apparent that the right hand hold was terrible and her right arm was probably super pumped, as she attempted to do a huge toss up right. The foot match would make sense if she was going up with her left hand.
FTR01 7 months ago
Actually, I don't see any modifications to the crux sequence ... maybe I'm just not looking close enough. Looks like there were some added holds lower down on the route (if you watch the whole super-final), but Ms. Ernst definitely works this upper crux better than Patxi! Go Johanna!!!
slopergroper 2 years ago
Yes, they`ve changed 2 or 3 holds (turned into better position) and added 1 or two holds for the feet- you can see it on the whole splitscreen-video.
But the moves are nearly similar- i think johanna is a machine!
When she was younger (12,13) i climbed with her in communal and national championchips-(i am climbing in the mens class, and i`m 6 years older), but she would have beaten me!!
Brenda1a 2 years ago
but did they change any part of that climb for the women? and what about adam ondra haha
Avezyyy 2 years ago