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From: bozzo16933
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  • What do you seal with prior to painting?

  • @lmjacobs I use mostly Liquitex products - my sealer/varnisher is called Acrylic Polymer Gloss Medium. I get a good price for quart bottles at Dick Blick's.

  • wow..great work n designs..can we know where we could get this alumiunm printing plates..please sir....excellent one

  • @medhaj33 Thanks! I'm sorry, but the I've never found any other aluminum plates made like the one in the video. I wish I had more pieces, too!

  • How do I keep everything from sticking in the joint compound? When I take the objects away, the compound sticks and does not leave a good impression like yours.

  • @seashoresecrets Besure to dip each of your objects in water before you press them into the plaster! BEst...

  • hey [: I'm making my first joint compound texture, do you let it dry for a few minutes after you've applied the compound so it isn't so wet and wont stick to the objects I use?

  • @yoggu Water, water. water - dip each object in water before pressing into the wet plaster! Best...

  • WOW, I love this!!!

  • thanks, excelent video!

  • I like how you fixed the edges

  • your work and music taste are fantastic! yay!

  • GREAT!

  • Thanks. I work with texture as well and love to see textured ideas. I have never tried to frame anything but might get brave enough to learn.

  • Hi I love your work. Very inspiring. How do you frame and or hang these pieces?

  • @MrHoneynutcheerios Greetings & thanks. I first attach my pieces to some small boards - then I nail slats around the edge. You'll have to check out my blog for detailed information.

  • Thanks a lot for sharing, I wasn't sure what should i use for raised texture... & love your work.. I was inspired :o)

  • Thank you

  • Thanks, "search" these two titles: 2010_03_Color layers usually three & 2008_11_How I color my textured paintings.

  • .....I can't seem to find it....

  • Hi love this, I see reference to the colours used is there another video? I can,

  • wooooooow!! It's exactly what I've been searching for!! thank you thank you thank you! :-)

  • @mirakissez88 Hello - You are welcome!

  • I just finished working my first try at this! I'm so excited to see how it turns out. It was really easy to work with the joint compound. Do you ever fix mistakes with your fingers (wet with the compound) because that's what I did a few times. I love your videos and hope to see more!! You're an amazing artist and I sincerely hope you think that imitation is the best form of flattery!

  • I love your work! I love the colors you used. The tech. is fantastic, I will try this in the near future. Will you do more tutorials? I would really love that! Thanks again for sharing your secrets!

    ~Leonie

  • @scrapaliciousleo Thanks for your kind words. Someday I'll get to some other videos about my art. There are about 10 mixed in with all my family videos. I should see if I can make separate channels!?!? BEst...

  • hey bozzo ! really liked ur work....i got inspired to make one ....but for the base i took PLASTER POWDER ..is it ok 2 use ? regds!

  • @pinku4259 Thanks! I think your plaster powder probably hardens quickly by a chemical proccess - it is good to use for pouring into molds, but it too running to make impressions into it. The premixed "joint compound" air dries leaving you lots of time to work with it. Good luck!

  • Ok, I went to Lowe's this weekend to look for Blue and white labeled joint compound and only found Dap brand loose powder in a plastic bag. I'm sure you use premixed. Can you tell me the exact brands you recommend? I'm using ProForm all purpose joint compound it I can reproduce clear stamped images. I want to send the link to my flickr so you can see my attempts at this technique and critique my work. Can you do another video showing lables/brands of the stuff you use?

  • Paul, do you use the aluminum plates over the entire piece or just in a few places like we see on the video? Though I've tried I just can't get the same sharp impressions made from the rubber stamps.

  • @LottieSue Hi - Three things can affect the quality of impressions made in the plaster (joint compound). 1. All joint compound are equal. I've found that the "lightweight" (blue and white 5 gallon buckets from Lowes or Home Depot) works the best. 2. Some rubber stamps are very low relief and don't work well (also I try not to press too firmly). 3. Water - I find dripping-wet rubber stamps work the best for me. I only apply textures with my aluminum printing plates sparingly. BEst

  • This is just great. Wonderful textures, most of which give no clue to what you used to create them! Love the doilies not put down completely flat... Would love to see the finished (coloured) version. Great work. Dying to try this!!!

  • I love your work, and I can't wait to make my own. Any chance of you posting a video showing the process you use to frame your pieces after they are finished?

  • Hi Bozzo, amazing technique. Can i use the same technique of applying the compund on canvas as well instead of hard board.? Does it give any cracks on canvas once it is dried. Please let me know

  • @artthirst - Thanks! I'm sorry though, I wouldn't use joint compound on canvas - it is not flexible when it dries and hardens. I do know that Liquitex makes a special product for canvas - search "modeling paste" then chose the one that says it is flexible.

  • Hi Bozzo, itz amazing technique. Thanks for sharing this.This is very interesting project. Can i use the same compound on canvas as well?Once the compound is dry, will it give any cracks on canvas? Please let me know

  • BUENISIMO!!!!!!!!

  • @MAEBOoOo - thank-you!

  • Sorry bozzo, I not speack good english. A question: The plaster you "compra en polvo o como se ve en el video?" Gracias

  • very very nice

  • Hello,

    A big fan of your work.Tried textured painting using the SHEETROCK all purpose joint conpound. Do I have to wait for it to dry a little as I'm not able to get the same effect with stamps as you do. The texture looks messy. I need your help. Please do let me know.

    Regards.

    Su

  • @demon13850 Thanks! Did you remember to put each object that you used into water first? Each thing you use should be dripping wet. You HAVE used the correct material - but if it was the Walmart brand - doesn't seem to work as well as the professional stuff "readi-mix" in 5 gallon buckets. About 14.50 at Lowes. Oh, I do not let the plaster dry at all. I start making my textures immediately. BEst of luck, PaulB

  • Love your videos! Want more! I've been experimenting with this technique. Questions: What do you "seal" the plaster with before you paint on it?. I use modeling paste, so do I still need to seal it with something before I paint? Also, do you reuse the doilies or are they ruined after every use.? Do you wash them? Thanks!!!

  • @katluvsdogs - Thanks! I use polymer gloss medium (2 coats) to seal my "joint compound" plaster. And I put one coat on top of each color after the color dries.  I think I remember that the modeling paste was OK without sealing it. Not sure. Hey, that's what experimenting is for! I do use my doilies over and over. I just rinse them out after each use. Have fun!

  • Great technique and beautiful results. Thanks for sharing!

  • I'm trying this project.(waiting for it to dry right now) I found that not all my stamps take--do you have a specific technique for stamping? And what's the optimal thickness for the compound?

    I was only able to get 1/8" hardboard, and I can see already that it's not going to work for a durable piece. Good for experimenting, though, since it's inexpensive.

    Such a GREAT project. Thanks so much for putting it online!

  • @abbynormal92243 - Hi! I try to make the compound 1/16" to 1/8" thick. Often I don't press my "texture makers" very strongly - making just a shallow impression. I ALWAYS dip "whatever" in a bowl of water so that the plaster doesn't stick on the "whatever." Also, some stamps have very shallow images to begin with - they don't work the best. I've done finished pieces on 1/8" masonite - seems to work OK - probably best if small pieces - which are the best for experimenting. Have fun.

  • Love this video. I use wall compound and white glue or carpenters glue on firm surface to avoid cracks.

  • @mabellchurnoopay - Thanks! I've not had a problem with the joint compound on primed standard board and some pieces are over 30 years old! I used to let some pieces dry in direct sunlight which caused many cracks - and still the plaster didn't come loose.

  • @mabellchurnoopay - can you tell me what the proportions are white glue to joint compound that you use?

  • Very Good technique  good painting

  • very cool.

    I have mixed paint and gel mediums with compound --BECAUSE I am afraid it will crack/fall off ...... Have you had any trouble with that ? It sure would be cheaper to use just the compound. Have you tried it on canvas ? Sorry I just started seeing yer vids !

  • @heygeno1951 Hi! I work on masonite (standard board) which is a rigid pressed board 1/4" thick. I've never had a problem with the joint compound cracking or coming loose. I used to paint with acrylics on masonite, "normal" paintings - not an uncommon surface for paintings.

  • @bozzo16933 Thanks for reply ! I work on large canvas so weight is an issue. I may try "sandwiching" the JC with gel medium over canvas ( I can see SHEETS of JC dropping off of a 5'6' canvas ! since it has flex )) Enjoy your vids...... Geno

  • @bozzo16933 - I've just discovered a "flexible" modeling compound made by Liquitex - it was in an AJ Moore store. sounds perfect for working on canvas.

  • @crystalhuber Thanks! I cut pieces of Masonite (also called Standard Board) and paint primer on them. Many lumber yards have 4 ft by 8 ft sheets. Places like Lowes & Home Depot sometimes have smaller pieces.

  • I use acylic polymer to make texture in my painting. It is flexible, can be rolled.

  • @art10ifly Thanks. Maybe someday you will make a video that shows how you do it? You have such a good touch with it - nice work!

  • what materail to make texture? Can you tell me? I love your work.

  • @art10ifly Greetings! and thank- you. I use "joint compound" - premixed plaster for walls and ceilings. I use the 5 gallon buckets. What did you use on your large round painting? It is beautiful.

  • Thanks for your response. I love your art work. Very unique. I hope you do more videos.

  • I don't let it set at all. I use the good stuff - some of the smaller containers from cheaper places are too runny to work well. I get the 5 gallon buckets, premixed with SHEETROCK printed on the bucket - I prefer the lightweight joint compound, but the all-purpose joint compound works pretty good, too. Remember to first wet everything that you use to imprint. I dip the imprinting surface in a bowl of water.

  • How long do you let the joint compound set before imprinting with stamps.

  • wow I love it -- it works awesome with this thats the same kind I got Sheetrock thanks so much for this cool idea if u get a chance check out one of my Large Paintings Texture and Layers one thanks again

  • @Morningwhispers I really liked your large piece with all the cool things embedded in it - including Mona Lisa - great size!

  • well that didnt go over well at Home Depot the only have Drywall Compound is that the same? sorry to keep asking u questions but I am trying to find the right product

  • @Morningwhispers YES, drywall or on my buckets it says SHEETROCK. Good luck and have fun.

  • I have used all kinds of joint compound. I've discovered that cheaper stuff from say WalMart is too runny for the precise impressions I like in my work. However I have used runny compound and made quite different textures (wavey works with runny!) so maybe your compound will not be wasted. I do use the ready-mix in 5 gallon buckets. I prefer the "lightweight" but used the "all purpose" for many years. My buckets are from a local lumberyard, but I've seen the good stuff in Lowes and Home Depot.

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  • Hello Great Work!!!! Just one cuestion, how did you seal the modeling compound???? And may use plastilita instead of the compound?

    Thankyou!!!!

    Renata

  • @renatallm Greetings - I paint two coats of "gloss acrylic polymer medium" to seal the dry (two days) joint compound. I am not familar with plastilita, but I'm sure that any modelling medium work. Experiment!

  • @renatallm I"m looking for that answer too! What did he use to seal after making the textures before adding paints?

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  • hello!! amazing texture you use on your canvas..im an artist, if you have any idea, here my webside at

    let me know what do you think..

    greta

  • hi..can you use anything else other than joint compound..like you know that stuff you use to glue tiles...I do a lot of mosaics and that stuff drys real fast...would like to use that instead of wasting it...thanx ;-)

    also when you prime the wood do you use regular house primer? have the whole 25 or 50 gallon left over from house painting...;-D

  • @jemimabarretto - I think that your grout material will work - depends on how well it takes the impressions and how well it holds up to the water necessary to make the impressions. Your house primer should work well if it's water based.

  • beautiful!! :-)

  • Very nice! I love the ideas!!!

  • i'm inspired..I love it!!!!!

  • Hello, what type of plaster are you using? brand name? thanks!

  • @mamuchi78 - reddy mix - joint compound - 5 gallon bucket - however any "joint compound" will work -- have fun

  • @bozzo16933 I bought some and it is toooooo watery, what do I do????

  • @mamuchi78 - You can try putting some plaster on your board and moving it around with a tool for quite a long time - it will dry-out as you work it. You might also try stirring the bucket - water may have risen to the top.

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  • Great work. How do you frame them for your wall, or for hanging? Thanks

  • @vixenportia - Thanks! I first attach a wood framework, similar to canvas stretchers, to the back of the masonite. Then I nail slats onto the framework.

  • These vids are wonderful. Got a dumb ?, tho'....do I get the masonite cut at lumber store and do I sand edges?

  • @fufugal Thanks! Some lumberyards have large, vertical saws and, for a price, will let you cut up large sheets of plywood and masonite. I do all my own cutting at home. Yes, I do sand the edges because of the way I frame my pieces.

  • That's cool, very artistic

  • What a great idea! thanks for sharing! Did you paint it after? Love to see that!

  • @redihpeach Thanks! I have another video posted that shows the "coloring" process.

  • once the surface gets dried , does the gloss polymer has to be applied before applying the paint?

    Thanks

  • @sant12ro - Yes, I actually lightly sand the dry plaster and then I paint to separate coats of the gloss polymer - seals the plaster and I can then manipulate the paint better.

  • does the stamps used for scrapbooking works for this or this needs a special ones??..

    Thanks

  • @sant12ro - Just about anything will work, as long as you dip it in water first! I use regular stamps, like the ones used for scrapbooking, I'm sure. I have made some special stamps by carving.

  • Hi, your work is very impressive. I have a couple of questions, what is the texture that you use, is that something you made by yourself or is it store bought, is that texture had to be used only on the hard surface or a streched canvas bord is good too?

    Thanks

  • @sant12ro The medium is "ready-mixed" joint compound. It's the same plaster used on ceilings and walls. I buy the 5 gallon buckets for $13 to $17. Any rigid surface seems to work well - I use masonite/standard board mostly - some small projects on wood. Canvas board would work really well, I'm sure. (If you try this, be sure to wet whatever you stick into the plaster to make your textures!)

  • Hi..just wanted to let you know that when I watched these two vids I was totally in awe. How thick of a layer of compound do you use? and what would cause the compound to crack as it was drying? Should it be left in the sun to dry or would the heat cause it to dry too fast and crack. Can the compound be put on pressed board or only on a rigid surface and does the every surface have to be primed first. Thanks so much

  • @free2danz Thanks! I'm sure that there is more than one way to make textured paintings - but for me, I only use about a 1/16" of an inch of joint compound. I've used the sun to help dry the plaster, but, as you've guessed, fast drying causes cracks (overly thick places tend to crack, too) I never really minded the cracks - adds more texture! I always use a rigid surface - and no, the surface - if a little porous - doesn't need to be primed.

  • Hi Great Job.... what do you use to hang your work on the wall ??

  • @gloria1251 You'll probably do best by checking my blog. I build my own frames and that lends a simple way to attach a hanging wire on the back.

  • @gloria1251 worldwideweb(period)bozzoart(p­eriod)blogspot(period)com

  • This is absolutely beautiful.  Thank you for sharing!

  • aw something else for me to try i love to do textural works and use builders caulk .thanks for sharing this great video.

  • @lettherebeart Thanks. I have yet to try caulking to make texture with - I will soon - I'm thinking of making some artcards that way.

  • Awesome! I'm so glad to have found this video! Do you have to wait for the compound to dry a litte bit or can you start imprinting right away? Are you using a wood panel to do this on or? How long does it take to dry before you paint on it? You are sealing with gloss polymer medium? Thank you!!!

  • I work on Masonite/standard board. I prime it with latex primer. I work right on the wet plaster BUT I have to wet everything before I press it in the plaster. I allow 48 hours if the plaster isn't too thick. Yes, I seal it with two coats of gloss polymer medium - usually I lightly sand before painting pgm.

  • Oh thank you! You mean you have to wet all your imprinting tools? The doily and everything else before pressing them into it....

  • Yes, actually dripping wet.

  • wow! okay thanks - if I use ampersand gessoboard do you think I have to prime it with anything first?

  • I don't think so. We have used unprimed masonite in classes.

  • Thank you so much : )

  • This is amazing! Fantastic piece of art.

  • and i totally love your work and your videos! i've tried on regular wood board and it curled up, so i'm trying on canvas and doing a collage into the joint compound with tissue paper and ribbons, buttons, things like that and using modge podge to go over it, just to try, until i find the gloss polymer.

  • Hey - I order the gloss polymer medium on line from Dick Blick - about $15 - you can get it at Michaels or ACMoore, but have one of their 50% off coupon so that you'll only pay $14. Sounds like you are having fun!

  • Hi! if i can't find the gloss polymer, is there anything else that works the same? where do you buy yours, i looked at walmart and hobby lobby and didn't find any? Thanks if you can tell me.

  • Is vinyl spackling ok to use insead of joint compound? Love your work so much!

  • I've never heard of vinyl spackling. I wonder if waterbased paints will stick to it? Please let me know. I've heard of caulk being used on small pieces.

  • I googled it and i should really use joint compound like you do. On a large piece I did get some flake offs with the spackle.

    Back to the hardware store for me.

  • Excellent video. It is so helpful for me, since I'm a beginner. Inspiring too. Thanks!

  • oh Yeah I also had a Doillie, laying in my house for about Ten years, and I just gave it away Too Goodwill about Four MOnths ago< of course!! thanks

  • how long did you Let the Joint Com. Dry Before Doing the Pressing? Because, I Think my JOint compound was maybe a Little Too wet? But So far so Good, I made ONe NOW I Gotta Paint it...

  • I work immediately on the wet plaster - but you must remember to use water on the objects before pressing them into the wet plaster.

  • Congrats on finishing a piece!

  • @bozzo16933 who Me? artistiChicana? THis Is one of Many, I will be Making Lots OF this tyupe Because, I usually Do this Stuff, I will Do either a Painting or, Whatever, and Then IF I get bored, I move ONTO something Else, But Yeah THis Could be Lots of Fun, But Yes, I should have Tried, using "Water On my Objects! Thanks a ton.

  • fan Frikken Tastic!! I love those Texture's, Why IF I have Painted on joint Compound before, Why Didnt I think too, use Materials for Texture before, I love the Process, and It looks "Wonderful " tanks alot.

  • Great idea!! beautiful work!! thanks for sharing.. = 0 )

  • Thanks for sharing!

  • Thanks!!!!!!

  • what is a compound joint?....

  • I have never even tried painting before but you make it look so easy and I love the work you did in this video. How did you keep the impressions from spiking up when you pull up the article you used for stamping? Did you wait a while before applying the stamped image?

  • I impress my stamps and texture makers immediately into the wet plaster - THE TRICK is to wet any object before pressing it into the plaster. The water prevents any plaster from sticking to the objects. Of course, the drying time is increased by the water - I wait a minimum of 48 hours before sanding the too rough edges and sealing with 2 coats of gloss polymer medium..

  • question? Can you apply the plaster technique to canvas in small areas and how would I seal it before painting?

  • I have done small areas on masonite - but I would be worried that the plaster would crack and come loose on canvas just because the surface is not rigid. However very small areas might work well. I would seal with two or three coats of gloss polymer medium and then prime that with gesso or whatever you normally use for primer.

  • liquidtex makes a medium called Flexible Modeling paste that allow for all those wonderful textures, but maintains a high level of flexibility that is just perfect for working on canvas.

  • Thanks for that!! Sounds good for everyone who works on canvas.

  • what are you applying the joint compound on?

  • I work on quarter inch masonite (sometimes called standard board). I buy 4ft by 8ft sheets and cut the sizes I want to work on.

  • are you sealing before and after coloring or both?thanks. this i beautiful art.

  • I use two coats of gloss polymer medium to seal the plaster - and then I use single coats after each color layer.

  • Oh, also are there any other plasters that are stronger then drywall compound? just really curious. Carolyn

  • I've tried a material that is used to fell cracks in floor. It was a little grainy, but worked well - until it aged and did some cracking. Liquitex makes a liquid marble product that accepts textures - but is a little runny and the textures aren't sharp.

  • Hello , I made a textured painting, and we all love it. Now I have a Questtion - HOW do I protect the edged from chipping?? Do you put anything extra on the finishing steps to help with the chipping.? I want to make and ship one to my mom, and I want to really seal it strong. Any Ideas?? Help! Carolyn

  • If you look closely, I clean about an 1/8" to 1/4" of the plaster away from the border. Then, when the plaster is dry, I sand the edges, too.  You might be able to sand the plaster and paint - and then brush paint the edges.

  • Yes I see that, that makes good sense. I'll give that a try. TY- Carolyn

  • Gee, I use the lightweight joint compound out of the big buckets - about 5 gallons. It is the perfect consistency right out of the bucket. Each object that I use to make impressions is first dipped in a water bucket. I had some bad luck with smaller buckets a couple of years back.

  • Thanks a TON! It worked, the water made all the difference. I got some cracks from it, but I smoothed them out while it was drying. Thanks again. Carolyn

  • I have been using the light weight plaster as you do, It is soo soft, I can't do patterns as quick as you do. It's like frosting. I patiently watch and wait as the plaster dries enough so to let my stamps and shapes create the shapes. Is that normal?Is there a difference between the joint compound vs plaster? I am using the joint compound. Carolyn

  • Did I forget that! I use joint compound - the plaster used on walls and ceilings which I get at the lumber yard. I prefer the blue (light weight) 5 gallon bucket.

  • Lovely...! Can you tell me please what u have used as the texturing medium...tks...Do reply...

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