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From: BoxWrench
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  • the distributor is sitting wrong ! and i don't agree to idle at 1500 2000 rps for break in. just drive it 500 miles and drain the oil the end.

  • to keep idle up i just turn the idle screw...

  • look the egr valve is connected to the carb no thermo switch

  • Distributor is in wrong again. You need to spin the oil pump drive before starting the engine to fill oil to all parts of the engine. You're so full of shit!!

  • @Mrphatbastard1

    This short clip is part of a much larger 3 1/2 long DVD.

    In the 'Final Assembly' Section of the full length video, there is complete coverage of the pre-oiling process during the chapter on 'Distributor Installation'.

    You are correct, the oil system needs to be primed before start-up of a freshly rebuilt engine...all of the details of that process along the way of a complete engine rebuild are covered in great detail in our full length 'Basic Engine Building' video.

  • Distributor in wrong again!!!

  • lol couldnt help but laugh when he said your timing might be a bit retarded lol

  • Good video...might be worth noting that this isn't entirely necessary for hydraulic roller cams.

  • How does higher reving avoid camshaft lobe flatening?

    What is the actuall logic behined this theory?

  • @jordfordable

    The RPMs need to be above 1500 as a minimum (2000 is better) because the pistons don't create enough 'oil splash' at lower RPMs. Without oil splash, after the break-in lubricant wipes off of Flat Tappet camshaft lobes, there will not be enough oiling to prevent the lobes from wearing in properly during the critcal first 20 minutes of engine run time.

  • This is funny, I think I used a screw driver to jam up the TB cable pully to get it to stay above 2000. I never saw someone use a twisty... I have to remember that one.

  • great help thanks!!!

  • I have your DVD, and it's great. Thanks for contributing quality material to the net.

  • i watched this video until i wont play nomore

  • Suggested reading.

    The Isky Cams and Comp Cams catalogs.

    Download them at their respective sites. In depth explanations and illustrations from people who actually design and make valve train components.

  • @Mrbulldog762 all flat tappet lifters mechanical, hydraulic,and solid

  • can somebody help me. how important is it to have the thermostat? i heard it is just for the inside of the cab heater... please thanks...

  • @acunchevy54 depends on where you live and how new the car is. a new car needs it to run efficient,well so dose an older motor but its not as important as a fuel injected motor. if you live down south it would be ok to run it until the weather started to get colder. i live up north and didn't run one in my car but it took forever to warm up and didnt put much heat out.

  • @cbr900rr919 thanks bro i will sure do that... ur helping me a lot with just a comment. thank u again...

  • The dude is right on here. I trashed an Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam in my 65 Mustang after less than 90 miles.The #1 exhaust lobe was rounded to the point where there was absolutely no lift at all. I wish I had seen this YouTube video before I started my engine. Would have saved me a weeks work and $150 out of pocket. Edelbrock warrantied the cam because the instructions failed to mention Zinc based oil. I was so ready just to hear the sound of the engine that I never did an extended break in.

  • yea good on cam bad on rings. hell most motor guys i know it goes on the floor right away anyway. Im to the point breck it in like a baby it will be a baby.

  • I have always wondered, what if everything on the motor is rebuilt, would you still have to instantly rev it up this high? I have and 85 Bronco II with 2.8 Colonge V6, my dad and I put a bigger comp cam with hevier lifters and everything ( Can't remember the exact specs at the moment) but when he first fired it up, I don't think he reved it. After a couple thousand miles, the idle is really rough and when it is cold it stalls after highway driving. Could this indicate a damaged cam?

  • Easy way ot getting it to start and set the Ignition Timing is have someone keep the engine turning over while you slowly tub the Distributer cap till it starts.

  • what happens during break in of the valve ?

    is there some metallurgical explanation for this ? do the lobes get slightly forged or do the tappets get plastically deformed or the rocker arm tips gets ablated ?

    why doesn't this happen a 1000 rpm ?

    is this true of modern alloys used in newer parts ?

  • @shodanxx Its not the valves that are breaking in, Its bcuz the old push rods are worn into the old Cam shaft and are rounded nicely around the edges. Now when you put a new cam on there it can change shape on the tip of the old "Push Rods" causing it flatten out a little or something so you just don't mash the pedal at all you let the part wear into each other and let them take the shape of each other.

  • @shodanxx All flat tappet style lifers require a break-in to set the lobes of the camshaft and the flat bottoms of the lifters into a 'wear pattern'. The wear pattern will cause the lifter to spin as the lobe wipes across the lifter bottom during the valve opening events.

    The reason for a minimum of 2000 RPM is to aide in the oil splash that is caused by the crankshaft. There is not enough oil splash at 1000 RPM.

    Most important though, oil MUST have 'ZDDP' zinc additive for flat tappet cams

  • Why do you not have to do a break in for a roller cam and lifters? I have a 91 Ford 302 H.O. and I plan on installing an E-303 cam from ford racing. It is a hydraulic roller... is that the same thing as "just" a roller? Also, what lifters would you reccomend for street driving/ VERY mild strip use? Thank you and great videos!

  • @PITBULL35383 This is only a sample clip from a 3 hour DVD... we didn't mention the roller cam set-ups in this short sample video because just as you said, you don't have to do any break-in for a roller lifter arrangement.

    This educational video is intended to educate people with the types of engines that require special care or procedures.

    However, if you have only roller tip rockers matched to flat tappet lifters, you'll need to go through the break-in procedure.

  • His ignition was a bit retarded. lol

  • he 4got to say that students u must stop the steel fan by hand while engine is @ 1,500 rpm lol

  • @the124Lscania not funny...

  • How do I get boxwrench video's lol I live in canada

  • @koopooda

    You can get this DVD and all of our other products shipped world wide. Come check out everything we have to offer in the 'Products' section of our website.

  • i use to do somthing before this , before puting the dist in place i allwys use a drill to run the oil pump then put the dist in place and start for braking.i love 350 chevy.

  • @shaikhdishgan1 You'll notice there are chapter and section numbers at the bottom of this video...This is a sample clip from a 3 1/2 hour DVD.

    There is a chapter that describes exactly what you're talking about. It's in the distributor installation chapter, which is also available as a sample here at YT.

  • Your not going to break in an engine by having it Idling in your car, you gotta drive it because the engine needs to have a load. This is just good enough to break in your camshaft

  • @k9forkids The title of this sample video is "Camshaft Break-In" and does not mention any reference to the actual 'engine break-in' procedure needed to 'seat' the rings properly....

    again, this video comes from a 3 1/2 hour DVD that has an incredible amount of engine building knowledge from disassembly all the way through final assembly and start-up.

    thanks for watching this short little sample clip...

  • so say i just installed a new cam in a old engine, break in required?

  • @woocachan Absolutely

  • @woocachan what kind of camshaft?

    If it's a roller cam (with roller lifters) you won't need to do the break-in shown here.

  • Haha, he said, "if the timing is retarded" lol

  • @gadejfan You'll get over that the more you work with engines and hear the terms for automotive tuning. Spark events that happen before Top Dead Center for a piston are called "advanced" timing. Spark events that happen after TDC for a piston are referred to as "retarded" timing...

  • @BoxWrench oh ok, see i learned somethin new today lol. Thanks

  • isnt that what the idle screw is for?

  • @rocketrobbyx3 Idle screw won't get the engine to 2000 RPM... if it does, there's a problem with your timing or another tuning issue that should be corrected

  • is a break in needed for overhead cams?

  • @xExRxIxCxKx no break-in procedure should be needed for overhead camshaft applications.

    The break-in is required for engines that have a flat tappet camshaft and flat bottomed lifters. These engines are usually a pushrod based design that has a single camshaft in the center of the block and pushrods that operate rocker arms above the cylinder heads.

  • @BoxWrench you should be more specific, Any Flat Tappet Cam needs to be broke in properly with plenty of Moly lube and Zinc in the Oil, Roller Cams Does Not, It doesn't matter if the Cam is in the Center with pushrods or Overhead Cam setup

  • @k9forkids this video is from a complete DVD that is over 3 1/2 hours long.

    There is an entire chapter dealing with camshaft installation and lubrication that specifically details the application of Moly lube...

    If you read through any of our forums on our site or all of the comments here on YT, you'd see we've given the exact same advice concerning the cam break-in for flat tappet cams.

  • What about diesel engines ??? and truck engines ??

  • @Elmarbergs The advice here is specific to gasoline powered piston engines, but only the kinds of engines that have "flat tappet" lifters accompanying their camshaft. If you have a newer engine with roller lifters, the break-in is not needed. If you have a diesel engine, you would also want to check and find out if you have a flat tappet or roller lifter cam to see if you need a break-in for the lifters and camshaft lobes

  • what....he put cold water into a hot radiator? that will crack a water pump!!!

  • @mikefromspace ummm, no. that's a complete wives tale. The water that was already circulating in the block and bottom of a half filled radiator begins to heat immediately upon engine start up. There are by-pass passages in almost all cooling system designs that keep water circulating during engine start up, and the water from even a hose is not any colder than about 60 degrees or so... no risk of cracking either a cast iron or aluminum water pump in these scenarios.

  • @BoxWrench I know because I cracked my water pump doing that once. Cold water will cause metal to change size and destroy seals as a result.

  • @mikefromspace well, there's "room temp" water from most hoses in most parts of the world for most of the year (water that is above at least 60 degrees F) but of course there is "cold" water that is lower than that temperature in many parts of the world...

    What part of the country do you live in...? Did you do the block fill-up during the winter with very cold water?

  • @BoxWrench At the time it was October in McMinville, Oregon when mine crack on a 93 ford van v8. It was at a gas station and probably about 40f outside.

  • @mikefromspace Sounds like that should be the updated warning then...

    Don't put water into any engine unless it is near room temperature of 60 degrees F or higher, just to be safe...

  • @mikefromspace . the engin just started to worm up i dont think it was "hot" yet remember what he said in the video "put the cap on befor the radiator gets to hot to touch" that tells me that the engine has not got up to normal running tems yet. so dont have a coniption fit.

  • "if your timing if retarted"

  • @catfisher10100...... my timing has been retarted as long as i can remember. i mean its 5:18 in the fuckin morning and im comenting to a video i have no use for...lol i need a life

  • Fair enough. I thought it was one take from manually setting timing to the cam break in

  • I wouldn't run an engine at 2000 rpms for even 30 seconds without setting the timing correctly first.

  • @bluefin907 In the lower left corner of this video you'll see a "60". This is chapter 60 of 61 total chapters of a DVD that is over 3 and a half hours long...

    There are two chapters concerning both the install of the distributor and the setting of the initial timing for the engine based on TDC for #1 cylinder.

    The Distributor and Spark Plug chapter is available here at YouTube on our BoxWrench channel

  • The "zip tie" is fine..I happen to own a throttle depressor. That, of course wouldn't work if the gas pedal isn't hooked up!

  • Dont forget to pull the dist. and go 1 tooth back/forward, sometime 180 deg. if you timed it on the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke, no.1 cylinder

  • @1112223333111

    We have a specific video here at YouTube that explains the proper method to set the engine at TDC for #1 that will ensure that the distributor is not installed 180 degrees out.

    Just go to our BoxWrench channel or search for 'BoxWrench distributor install'

  • WTF is that zap strap on there?

    It has a idle screw........

  • @1112223333111

    The nylon strap is called a 'zip tie'.

    All carburetors have a couple of screws meant for idle mixture (these should not be used to try an adjust idle speed) Carburetors also have an 'Idle Speed Screw'...this must be what you're referring to. An Idle Speed Screw is not a good method for bringing the break-in engine speed to 2000-2500 RPMs. It's called an "idle" speed screw for that reason...sometimes the speed screw cant' even raise the RPMs higher than 1500 RPM.

  • what does it mean "breaking in" the engine or turbo??

  • @motorwolrdpl

    This procedure is intended to "break-in" a flat tappet camshaft (flat bottomed lifters, not roller lifters).

    This has nothing to do with either engine break-in (piston rings) or a turbo unit.

  • @BoxWrench yea but why do they break  in engines or turbos??

  • If your breaking in a brand new engine that is the worst advice ever to let an engine sit at a specific rpm and even worse with no load!

  • @EricMorseRacing

    You may want to re-read the title of this video again and then watch and listen a bit closer...

    This is not "engine" break-in, this is "camshaft" break-in.

    This procedure comes directly as advice from all camshaft manufacturers of flat tappet camshafts to prevent pre-mature wipe out of a lifter bottom or cam lobe.

    The advice here does not say to leave the RPM alone. It suggests you to change RPM regularly but with a minimum RPM of 2000.

  • this is the best series i have ever seen on automotive repair. this is 100000x better than a Haynes Manuel for rebuilding an engine. very detailed

  • i heard someone say you should take the inner valve springs out until cam is broke in . any truth to that and does it have to be done?

  • When breaking in a flat tappet camshaft you are suppose to add an additive to the oil to break in the cam. Joe Gibbs makes a break in oil and to my opinion its the only oil to use to break in a cam or a new engine. I think they are the best oil out there. I've looked at there website and they have defiantly done there homework when it comes to oil. Its the only oil that will ever go in my truck.

  • If you place the #1 cylinder at TDC on its compression stroke then move the crankshaft to the proper timing mark (say 12 degrees BTDC), then turn the distributor to where the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug tower on the distributor cap you will be within 1 or 2 degrees of time and you wont have to fool with advancing and retarding the timing for initial startup.

  • @willythewave this is only a piece of a 3 hour long video...

    the exact advice you just mentioned is listed in the distributor install and ignition timing section of the 'Basic Engine Building' DVD that we offer.

    Those clips are also available here on YouTube...

  • nice video, one thing to stress is getting the timing set when the dist. is installed and having filled the carb with fuel through the bowl vent . the enging should start right up.

  • What the hell kind of unprofessional mechanic doesn't know the difference between the two states of ignition spark events that have been described as "advanced" and "retarded" timing since the birth of internal combustion engines...

  • Ive never heard that, and i wasnt trying to be rude, but it just sound odd.

  • The terms throw a lot of people off...

    "Advanced" means the spark event happens before the top dead center position of the cylinder that is about to fire and "Retarded" means the spark event is slightly 'delayed' just after the top dead center of the piston that is supposed to fire.

    It sounds weird to many people to say the word 'retarded' but that's been the term for over a hundred years of internal combustion engines

  • Ok then, now i know, im only 14 and still learning. Thanks

  • Not exactly correct there!, in engine timing terms, lets say that the spec sheet for a certain engine says that the ignition timing should be say, 10 degrees btdc at 800 rpm, then if an engine was running at say 12 or 15 btdc then that would be known as " advanced" or "over-advanced", if it was running at say, 8 or 5 or even 2 degrees before top dead centre, u would say the ignition was "retarded" ie a bit later than it should occur. so, even tho spark occurs before tdc it can b called retarded

  • Very good point, and completely true. Also, for the record "advance" and "retard" are not just adjectives, they are in this case also verbs. You can "retard" your spark but still be BTDC. Let's say you had 20 degrees of advance BTDC and you "retarded it back ten degrees. You would still be 10 degrees BTDC.

  • cuz kinda ina fucked up way your motor goes retared lol

  • I really love all of your videos! They're the best engine building videos i've ever seen. I am planning on buying one of your DVD's.

    I have always loved engines, but unfortunately I have not had access to any V8 engines and/or full-size car engines to work on.

    Thanks for the great information!

  • :27 Sometimes that's not the only retarded issue.

  • If you were to rebuild an engine and use the existing cam, do you still need to do this breakin procedure?

  • If you've rebuilt an engine and are planning on re-installing a camshaft that has flat tappet (flat bottomed, non-roller) lifters that was previously run in the engine...

    yes, you can skip the break-in procedure shown here.

    However, you must have re-installed the rockers and pushrods to their original positions as covered in the 'Disassembly' section of our 'Basic Engine Building' DVD.

    If you don't match the valve train parts back, there is a high risk of them failing during friction wear.

  • I'm looking to rebuild a MOPAR 4.7 HO V8.

    It is a SOHC (one for each head) motor that uses lash adjusters. I'm sure you already know what these are, but for others reading; they are like the lifter and the pushrod combined. They are hydraulic but not a 'roller lifter' type.

  • im rebuilding a 351c for my 72 mach 1 and ive been researching the break in process and i was told to do exactly what you did except after i do this step im supposed to get it from 30 to 65 mph then take my foot of the gas and let it slow to 30 then go back up to 65 about 10 times. is this accurate or good advice or no? thanks

  • Newly assembled camshaft breakage is quite a problem!We had a bad expirience on 350 small block with Weiand blower, all was new, they guy who assembled the engine was running it all the day before we came to visit him... (I don't know that RPMs, but idle probably, so that was the case!)... and finally.. that happened!

    /watch?v=BEWQtVoOX6I

  • The camshaft broke the block so the piston met its pieces and the connecting rod finally made a hole inside of the cylinders.

    That's great that you cover such things!

  • when breaking in new engines my dad told me he always drove whatever it was 500 miles in the city, nice sunday driving stuff, then take it on a long roadtrip...is there any proof that thats good, or is it just some wives tale of engines?

  • Taking it easy for the first 500 miles of driving is good standard advice that does make sense.

    During that period the rings of the pistons will have a chance to "seat" in place and work themselves into a pattern of better upper sealing and lower lubrication.

    If the engine is stressed in the first 500 miles, it will be due for a rebuild much sooner than if it was babied for the first few hundred hours of it's life.

  • ok thanks

  • I'm buying an 84 F250 with a 460. The guy told me he did not finish his cam break-in and it may have a loose lifter, any thoughts or sugestions on how I can finish this up and get her running properly?

  • If you know for sure that one of the lifters has already begun to wear away and tick uncontrollably, the cam and lifter set it shot and will need to be replaced.

    If the guy is only "worried" that a lifter "may or may not" wipe out over time because of the incorrect break-in, you may have some time on the engine.

  • well basically he said he didn't get to finish thew cam break-in upon rebuild and it just has a slight tick. Where do you think I should go from here? Continue the break-in process? Have my rockers and lifters inspected at a garage? My skills are a bit limited, but as you can see I'm learning.

  • Our 'Basic Engine Building' DVD can take you through the process of adjusting the valve lash at the rockers and the proper break-in procedure for you to continue with.

    If the tick returns, you'll likely have to swap the cam and lifters because one or more of the lobes and or lifter bottoms will have been damaged by not breaking in properly.

  • i'm so glad i saw this!

    some "know-it-all" almost had me convinced that i didn't need to break in a cam...

    great vid, 5 stars!

  • Glad to hear you caught this vid in time...

    Only engines with roller lifters can be run in without a break-in period.

    The video above is a must for any and all camshafts with flat tappet lifters (lifters with flat bottoms)

    Also, you should add some break-in additive to your oil for extra good measure of protection during the first hours of the engines life.

  • any recomendations?

    i'm kind of a lead foot with a big block

  • thats why i went with a hydro roller cam, im actually getting a new mutha thumper cam for my monte carlo :D an easy 65 hp gain;)

  • Excellent....!!!

  • Any chance or anything in the pipeline to do something like a nissan rb26 engine rebuild guide....love the tutorials but in britain there arent many american made muscle ;o)

  • Would you do the same procedure on an overhead cam design ?

  • lol did he say if it sputers your timeing was a bit retarted LOL

  • Advance and Retard are standard automotive terms that describe the spark timing.

    Sparks occur at varying degrees before the pistons reaches Top Dead Center.

    When the spark happens before the piston hits TDC, the timing is said to be Advanced.

    If the spark happens after TDC, the timing is said to be Retarded.

    When describing moving advance timing toward TDC it is also referred to as "Retarding" the timing.

  • would this need to be done on a jap engine like an rb25det/rb26dett? i dont understand the different between a roller cam or a flat tappet...

  • It's rare to see roller tips on the valves were the cams would push them open. Usually there are "Bucket and Shim" type arrangements at the valve tips that take up slack between the valve tip and the overhead cam lobe.

    Some times they are hydraulic lash (quieter) and other times they are solid lash design (louder).

    In either case, the cam lobe is metal rubbing on metal of the shim in the bucket...would be a good idea to do a camshaft(s) break in during the first start-up after swapping cams.

  • I really like the way the change voices when doing the video it take away from hearing one person on the whole dvd section..u know you get pissed or kind of tried of hearing the same tone of voice

  • Thanks for that comment...

    We spend a lot of time planning the 3 1/2 hours of video and voiceover for the complete DVD.

    It's great to hear someone payed attention to our efforts to not bore you with one voice only.

    Not that you can tell from this single clip but...obviously you've watched all or some of the complete 'Basic Engine Building' DVD.

    Thanks again for the comment !

  • Yeah well i didnt know if ppl would understand what i was tryn to say. YES i seen you guys youtube videos and i am goin to get your combo deal, Reasons why 1 i just got a 350 with everything but the damn starter for 300 and my friends giving me his old 350 trans. I would love help from ppl cause i know jack about engines so these dvds would RULE!! Great JOB AGAIN big Omar From Dallas

  • Right on Big Omar,

    If you want a killer collection of all the stuff for your ride, check out our site...we have a couple combos that you can customize.

    You can grab the 3 DVD combo and choose the TH350 transmission, and a Holley carb DVD or Engine Management book (depending on what your induction is) but is you already have the 'BEB' DVD, you can mix and match as well...

  • what about a inline for? like if i were to do 272cam on an eclipse gsx, would i still run it at 2000 rpm to break em in? thanks!

  • would it cause any damage to engine if you perform the break-in between 2500 and 3000 rpm ?

  • Nope, doing the engine break-in at 2500 to 3000 RPM would create plenty of oil pressure and piston wall splash oiling for an excellent first run of any flat tappet (non-roller) camshaft.

    The potential problems arise when there isn't enough oil pressure and oil splash at RPMs lower than 1500 for the critical first twenty minutes of engine run time.

  • Are you moving the whole distributor or the cap? Im putting a new cam in my bbf 466 here soon, its the first one ive ever done, and kinda nervous about the break in haha, for a roller cam, what else do you need to run it? Or does a roller cam come with everything needed to run it?

  • If you have a roller cam there is no need to be worried about this break in procedure... it is only for flat tappet camshafts (non-roller lifters).

    When the distributor is being adjusted, the cap is bolted in place to the distributor body. The distributor itself is being slightly moved left and right. This changes the relation of the spark plug towers to the spinning rotor under the cap and effectively causes the timing to happen sooner or later (advanced or retarded respectively).

  • Most flat tappet engines come with a few minutes run time from the factory.

    This is when you rebuild it.

  • That may be true for crate engines purchased from some mass engine building factories but when you build your engine yourself and install a flat tappet cam, you must break it in, otherwise you'll run a high risk of a lobe going bad...

  • Thank you for your explanation. I know what a flat tappet or a roller camshaft is. The problem with american flat tappet camshafts is the hardened. It`s not strong enough and is not the same in some segments of the camshaft. That´s the reason why the lobes get flat even doing the break - in... Poor quality

  • this is big lie.. a good european or japanese camshaft doesn´t need a break in procedure..... the truth is american aftermarket cams are bad quality garbage

  • No lies here, only experience.

    All 'Flat Tappet' camshafts must have a break-in period or they will be highly susceptible to early wear out. We've had it happen on a cam that was not broken in, this is not a myth at all among experienced mechanics.

    A Flat Tappet camshaft is a cam that has flat bottomed lifters. The cams you speak of that do not need break in are "Roller Lifter" camshafts. Most newer auto makers use roller lifters, American engines included.

    Flat Tappets are not bad cams...

  • timing is retarded

  • hahahhaha, soz YAMUM!!!.

    nah i lold 2

  • What?

  • wth ?

  • I have a hydraulic roller cam and roller rockers. Fired my new engine and drove it like a bat outa hell! 1600 miles later, runs like a bat outa hell! The first 300 miles changed the oil.

  • whats nice about a roller cam is you dont have to break in the cam :)

  • This is the right way to do it,and the reason is because the billet is only tempered at factory to a certain temper and not to the accual heat and load of an engine so all the molicules are not settled properly so buy breaking in the cam this way the molicules will move around and settle nicely and make it strong and durable and when you run a cam in this way you can accualy hear the engine change its Acoustic order and it makes it sound sweet out the pipe,excuse my grammar

  • This is all unnecessary on a roller cam. Engines with roller cams can be fired up, tuned and driven away.

  • Is this only for american engines ?

    I never did this procedure and i also haven't had any problems with a camshaft.

    New cams in a suzuki gsx r engine , no problem , just with 10w40 semi synth oil.

    the cams you buy must be treathet for that.

    But maybee there is a procedure and maybee the camshaft last a bit longer if you let it run like you say in the video.

    rossi

  • just a question,

    whats the best oil to run for cam break in, also shouldnt the cam be coated in assembly lube too? also i hear people talking about using EOS-what is that?

  • ye just coat the lobes with a little essembly lube.

    The oil to use depends on whether u put new rings in the motor.

    if its just a new Cam u installed.....then use a good quality synthetic.

    New rings.....u have to use a cheap crap mineral oil....because the rings need to file themselves into shape against their (honed) bores.

  • Is the procedure the same when using "cool face" lifters ? Do any manufactures make cool face lifters for Big block Mopars?

  • pretty sure you don't, but I'll ask anyways- do you have to do this when you put in a new ROLLER cam, like a 5.0 ford mustang motor?

  • You'd be surprised how many people don't know this! Read books and learn! I have been building engines for over 30 years and I still watched this vid. to see if I could learn something. Good job!

  • Amen. It's the only way I can fix my cars.

  • Most modern oil has had the zinc taken out of it since most cars are roller cam now days.

    you need to buy oil with zinc in it or buy special cam break in additive.

  • Buy Rotella T

  • iirc, diesel engine oil would be a good stand-in

  • Why the minimum speed for running a new camshaft?

    If you have ever been water skiing you will know that there is a minimum speed required to stand up and plane on the water? You may also know that barefoot skiing requires much higher speed than with skis? Also, a heavier person needs more speed than a light one to reach their planing threshold speed.

  • The cam lobe has the highest contact pressure (pound per square inch) of any sliding surface in an engine. This is because even a broken in cam has only line contact on the lobe nose during full valve lift. New cam and follower surfaces are comparatively rough and not completely parallel, further reducing the contact area. This means they will tend to tear into each other if the roughness is allowed to engage at full valve spring load.

  • Imagine trying to ski barefoot in water only 6 inches deep with rough rocks at the bottom. It would be important to get your speed up above the planing threshold immediately or you would "flat-spot your feet. If the rock were covered in an inch of soft mud you may get away with a slow start up without loss of skin -- in this case the mud is analogous to the molly grease applied to new cam lobes:

  • they are hardened metal- i dont believe this shit-

    kinda like the drop it and it will break (theory)- if it breaks it had a weak spot in it and is junk to begin with

  • You really think that? Ask any engine builder they will tell you different.

  • why would they say that?-- oil pumps pump from the start of the engine, not after the motor warms up, the metal will break in as needed

    what exactly do they say happens ? them metal wares in just a little, then its ok for 200,000 miles?-hahahaha

    people are deceived

  • Why the minimum speed for running a new camshaft?

    If you have ever been water skiing you will know that there is a minimum speed required to stand up and plane on the water? You may also know that barefoot skiing requires much higher speed than with skis? Also, a heavier person needs more speed than a light one to reach their planing threshold speed.

  • i dont believe this at all - cams are hardened metal they take years to flatten out-

    someone had a bad cam so they came up with this theory? -lolol

    kinda like dropping one and it breaking- if it does its a bad cam,and would have broke in the engine!(weak spot)-

  • Jason

    I have just written a detailed explanation why new cams need to be run above a minimum speed but YouTube only allows 500 characters.

    I sent you a message, but don't know if you got it. If you are interested I will e-mail it to you or anyone else.

  • Thanks! I bought another video from you guys but it didnt have the cam break in bit... I knew most of it, but it's still helpful! The video I have is fantastic! You guys do a good job with it!

  • lol that might happen if your timing is Retarded.... lol

  • haha

  • thanks for all these videos! very nice, I think I'll buy the dvds

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