@climberatspire So if you jump to give a dynamic belay, how do you know that you won't get picked up because the climber might be slightly heavier than you? Is there some safe way to anchor somehow?
@MaxieNator also when he was belaying her with the gri-gri he had his finger on the lock to pay out rope with out the gri-gri locking off but if she fell when he's holding the gri=-gri open the rope would have just flone though the gri-gri and not stoped her fall
It wasn't that I didn't like the video, (read my origional post from months ago) as I said before, I thought it was very descriptive and went over good stuff but I thought a select few things were a bit off. Origionally, it was just a constructive comment of what I saw as the pros and cons of it until I was told I don't know what I'm talking about.
This comment has received too many negative votesshow
...oh but ha you wouldn't know what wires, copperheads, dead-heads, alumniheads, RP's, offsets, brassies, or any of the above are because you're a sport climber. Oh i mean indoor climber, that's not even real sport climbing cause you don't even place the draws yourself and you follow the tape... I think i know what i'm talking about sir.
@evanvideo I climb outside in the summer and mostly inside in the winter. I do live in Montana. I climb sport, trad and boulder and have done a little aid climbing. Does it somehow make you cool to name away different peices of gear... so what. Didn't realize you would get so butt hurt
@evanvideo - I am sorry that you can not respect all types of climbing. I think you may have some personal issues with your ego. We welcome and value all climbers who use our gym and in 5 year have never had an accident or major injury. Thanks for your comments but please no more spray. If you don't like the video just say so. We will take that for what it is.
@evanvideo clearly you have no idea what your talking about, because your quite obviously a massive dickhead without and friends or climbing experience.
P3313, being strong enough to climb 5.13 does not mean you know the ropes. Also it does not mean that you intrinsically know what your belayer is doing. Also, trad climbing, or sport, you still don't let go of the brake end. Seriously. Do those nice shiney bolts or the padded floor make you feel all warm and cozy too? Yeah you're right i don't know what i'm doing, i just got off of a 3 day long BIG WALL where you trust your life on tiny wires less than a milimeter thick, hooking dead heads, etc.
@evanvideo To me it didn't look like he let go of the break end. It looks like he still has a few fingers on it. Maybe I'm wrong. Those two are the owners of the gym, so I hope they know how to belay properly. Good for you, I have never done big wall only multipitch trad. Hopefully one of these days
ok he has a grigri but you still don't let go of the brake end!!!! UGH!!
"carabinerthingamajig" ?! take a class yourself!
at 3:47 he's using the exact WRONG technique for feeding slack with a grigri! he lets go of the brake line completely. Go on Petzl's web site and read how to properly do it. its easy.
its called a "soft catch". there's no such thing as a "hard belay" or "soft belay"
gyms are supposed to be teaching "Palms down" belay technique now because it is unbelievably much safer
WOW...That is absolutely TERRIBLE belay technique! Please guys, do not let this be a substitute for learning from an actual QUALIFIED climber. You can be hurt very bad!
Uh...no it's not. That's how you lead belay with a Gri Gri...and seeing as the people who made this work at the gym, they probably know what they are talking about.
holy crap im in 9th grade and i just joined the rock climbing club and i had no idea it was gonna be this awsome. im really good at the ones where u just clip the rope on u and if u fall it just lets u down slowly. i never failed one of thos and i do the hardest levels but this looks crazy but awsome. i cant wait to try it out tomorrow.
Good overall advice, but some thoughts to increase safety: 1. The female climber should have a backup knot after her figure eight tying into the rope. Haven't ever been to a gym where you don't get yelled at for not having one. 2. The belayer should never have his right hand ("brake hand") removed from the rope. I know that they are using an atuo-lock device, but what happens when they get somewhere and only an ATC (not auto-locking). Just good to practice with correct technique always!
With regard to being outdoors, I have put 2 microwires in about a foot of each other, prime risk of zed clipping right there. In the gym they are always spaced out, you won't have 2 that close to each other. Yes at the crag you may be a bit more run out than that which should avoid it, but anyone that can reach 5 feet to do it is well yeah.
Other than that its pretty good, except for the advice of JUMPING into the fall while belaying. If you are planning on trad climbing, don't ever, EVER jump into the fall. If you time it wrong, you will both fall onto the rope at the same time and will pop every single piece of gear out of the wall. Bad, step into it and let yourself get tugged up, don't jump.
@kerethan While I agree that jumping at the wrong moment can cause shock loading, I still think there should be some active movement into a fall as much as possible. Its important to teach people that the hop, or step, or lift, (or whatever you want to call it) must not occur until one feels the load on their harness. Telling someone to let themselves get "tugged up" might enforce just sitting into the rope and letting the climber do all the work, which is also a major shock loading hazard.
@myPlaygroundEarth You also cant move out of the way of falling rock on a multi pitch, however im not going to teach anyone not to simply because it cant be done on a hanging belay. Single pitch climbing is a whole different world from multi pitch climbing, and my advice was clearly tailored for those using a dynamic belay ON THE GROUND
As others said, it depends on how far they are from another. I could definitely see myself doing that if the clips were close enough to each others, since I'm a "newbie". Shouldn't disqualify you, in my view, everyone make mistakes, especially us newbloods.
But then again, the clips are a sensible distance apart in my gym, so it shouldn't be a problem. I've managed to get my rope to glue itself to the loose velcro of my climbing shoe, though:D.
@climberatspire So if you jump to give a dynamic belay, how do you know that you won't get picked up because the climber might be slightly heavier than you? Is there some safe way to anchor somehow?
bobbyrecher1 2 days ago
this was very informative, thanks!
MrWilliamson9411 1 month ago
hahaha crap finish
TheOldGreggggg 2 months ago
3:43 is he taking his had off the bottom rope to pull slack out the gri gri? :P
adamg125 2 months ago
Great video to watch before my lead climbing course tonight. Thank you!
benwest123 7 months ago
Yeah you can see him lookin there *wink* *wink* *nudge* nudge*
JaaMizzou22 10 months ago
Thank you
mcloven83 10 months ago
Why Did he jump when she fell????
ninadog13 1 year ago
@ninadog13 to make her fall softer. if he hadnt jump, she would feel every bone in her body after the fall... I speak from experience.
Cheesemax96 1 year ago
you always want to do a stopper knott on your reef knott. in this case you didnt.
kayakingash 1 year ago
@kayakingash reef knot?
lefty1471 1 year ago
@MaxieNator also when he was belaying her with the gri-gri he had his finger on the lock to pay out rope with out the gri-gri locking off but if she fell when he's holding the gri=-gri open the rope would have just flone though the gri-gri and not stoped her fall
kayakingash 1 year ago
I like the fight club sound track !
WeBeChillin420 1 year ago
It wasn't that I didn't like the video, (read my origional post from months ago) as I said before, I thought it was very descriptive and went over good stuff but I thought a select few things were a bit off. Origionally, it was just a constructive comment of what I saw as the pros and cons of it until I was told I don't know what I'm talking about.
evanvideo 1 year ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
...oh but ha you wouldn't know what wires, copperheads, dead-heads, alumniheads, RP's, offsets, brassies, or any of the above are because you're a sport climber. Oh i mean indoor climber, that's not even real sport climbing cause you don't even place the draws yourself and you follow the tape... I think i know what i'm talking about sir.
evanvideo 1 year ago
@evanvideo I climb outside in the summer and mostly inside in the winter. I do live in Montana. I climb sport, trad and boulder and have done a little aid climbing. Does it somehow make you cool to name away different peices of gear... so what. Didn't realize you would get so butt hurt
P3313 1 year ago
@evanvideo - I am sorry that you can not respect all types of climbing. I think you may have some personal issues with your ego. We welcome and value all climbers who use our gym and in 5 year have never had an accident or major injury. Thanks for your comments but please no more spray. If you don't like the video just say so. We will take that for what it is.
climberatspire 1 year ago 28
@evanvideo clearly you have no idea what your talking about, because your quite obviously a massive dickhead without and friends or climbing experience.
mintyvision 1 month ago
P3313, being strong enough to climb 5.13 does not mean you know the ropes. Also it does not mean that you intrinsically know what your belayer is doing. Also, trad climbing, or sport, you still don't let go of the brake end. Seriously. Do those nice shiney bolts or the padded floor make you feel all warm and cozy too? Yeah you're right i don't know what i'm doing, i just got off of a 3 day long BIG WALL where you trust your life on tiny wires less than a milimeter thick, hooking dead heads, etc.
evanvideo 1 year ago
@evanvideo To me it didn't look like he let go of the break end. It looks like he still has a few fingers on it. Maybe I'm wrong. Those two are the owners of the gym, so I hope they know how to belay properly. Good for you, I have never done big wall only multipitch trad. Hopefully one of these days
P3313 1 year ago
Best lead climbing instruction vid i found on youtube so far.
lalalalavalamp 1 year ago
ok he has a grigri but you still don't let go of the brake end!!!! UGH!!
"carabinerthingamajig" ?! take a class yourself!
at 3:47 he's using the exact WRONG technique for feeding slack with a grigri! he lets go of the brake line completely. Go on Petzl's web site and read how to properly do it. its easy.
its called a "soft catch". there's no such thing as a "hard belay" or "soft belay"
gyms are supposed to be teaching "Palms down" belay technique now because it is unbelievably much safer
evanvideo 2 years ago
@evanvideo no his hand never lets go of the rope... you don't know what you are talking about
P3313 1 year ago
WOW...That is absolutely TERRIBLE belay technique! Please guys, do not let this be a substitute for learning from an actual QUALIFIED climber. You can be hurt very bad!
WyldeOne87 2 years ago
Uh...no it's not. That's how you lead belay with a Gri Gri...and seeing as the people who made this work at the gym, they probably know what they are talking about.
thetree21220 2 years ago
@WyldeOne87 the guy climbing in the vid is a 5.13 climber... I think he knows what he is doing
P3313 1 year ago
im surprised the guy at the bottem isnt hooked into the wall or a weight..incase if she did fall he wont go flyingggggggggg...
dayumgirlitsemily 2 years ago
holy crap im in 9th grade and i just joined the rock climbing club and i had no idea it was gonna be this awsome. im really good at the ones where u just clip the rope on u and if u fall it just lets u down slowly. i never failed one of thos and i do the hardest levels but this looks crazy but awsome. i cant wait to try it out tomorrow.
techboy710 2 years ago
can someone explain to me why you would or wouldn't want to "Z clip" 3:00 - 3:10
sk8fan1122 2 years ago
err i guess becouse it would be pulling the climber down the route instead of letting here freely climb.
yomattieT 2 years ago
thanks
sk8fan1122 2 years ago
because if you z clip you cant climb much further
dayumgirlitsemily 2 years ago
so its a good thing?
sk8fan1122 2 years ago
Z clipping increases the rope drag significantly, so it makes it extremely hard for the leader to progress.
scionxb1123 2 years ago
so its a bad thing?
sk8fan1122 2 years ago
yeah.
scionxb1123 2 years ago
There should be more vids like this one. There are the expertvillage ones, but they all seem to be full of errors.
MidgardEagle 2 years ago
Good overall advice, but some thoughts to increase safety: 1. The female climber should have a backup knot after her figure eight tying into the rope. Haven't ever been to a gym where you don't get yelled at for not having one. 2. The belayer should never have his right hand ("brake hand") removed from the rope. I know that they are using an atuo-lock device, but what happens when they get somewhere and only an ATC (not auto-locking). Just good to practice with correct technique always!
ntomsen 2 years ago 3
Didn't she clip into that clip a bit early? I was taught to clip when the carabineer thingie was between my head and belt.
MidgardEagle 2 years ago
The women is a spot on commentator, but I think the guy has no idea!
matt10990 2 years ago
Yes, too many "mmm"s and "um"s and "thingie"s from the male commentator. They should've done a couple practice cuts, definitely.
Still a great video, I'm going to show this to friends when explaining climbing to them.
MidgardEagle 2 years ago
With regard to being outdoors, I have put 2 microwires in about a foot of each other, prime risk of zed clipping right there. In the gym they are always spaced out, you won't have 2 that close to each other. Yes at the crag you may be a bit more run out than that which should avoid it, but anyone that can reach 5 feet to do it is well yeah.
heathenwalking 2 years ago
The commentary is poorly planned out...
Other than that its pretty good, except for the advice of JUMPING into the fall while belaying. If you are planning on trad climbing, don't ever, EVER jump into the fall. If you time it wrong, you will both fall onto the rope at the same time and will pop every single piece of gear out of the wall. Bad, step into it and let yourself get tugged up, don't jump.
kerethan 3 years ago 7
@kerethan this is meant for sport climbing obviously... it's a climbing gym
P3313 1 year ago
@kerethan
what do you mean you both will fall onto the rope?
just wondering....
im a beginner
WeBeChillin420 1 year ago
@kerethan While I agree that jumping at the wrong moment can cause shock loading, I still think there should be some active movement into a fall as much as possible. Its important to teach people that the hop, or step, or lift, (or whatever you want to call it) must not occur until one feels the load on their harness. Telling someone to let themselves get "tugged up" might enforce just sitting into the rope and letting the climber do all the work, which is also a major shock loading hazard.
wcleary91 1 year ago
@wcleary91 Z You can't "jump" or "hop" on a Multi-pitch route though
myPlaygroundEarth 1 year ago 2
@myPlaygroundEarth You also cant move out of the way of falling rock on a multi pitch, however im not going to teach anyone not to simply because it cant be done on a hanging belay. Single pitch climbing is a whole different world from multi pitch climbing, and my advice was clearly tailored for those using a dynamic belay ON THE GROUND
wcleary91 1 year ago
@wcleary91 I know, I was just adding to what you said, I wasnt saying you were wrong or trying to argue.
myPlaygroundEarth 1 year ago
Great video thank you for posting it - really helped for my first lead climbing session last night :)
imbatman05 3 years ago 2
Great video! Thanks for making this.
Genabelle 3 years ago
sweet vid and very informative...
cohgemini 3 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
nice video, but anyone that actually manages to z clip in a gym, should really not be climbing.
heathenwalking 3 years ago
As others said, it depends on how far they are from another. I could definitely see myself doing that if the clips were close enough to each others, since I'm a "newbie". Shouldn't disqualify you, in my view, everyone make mistakes, especially us newbloods.
But then again, the clips are a sensible distance apart in my gym, so it shouldn't be a problem. I've managed to get my rope to glue itself to the loose velcro of my climbing shoe, though:D.
MidgardEagle 2 years ago
Awesome video!! Great narrators. Makes me want to lead climb.
hazenaudel 3 years ago
nice video!!
tetsufumi321 4 years ago