Added: 3 months ago
From: edwarren14
Views: 56,973
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  • I give you guys so much resect for holding it together. You should always climb with a SPOT.

  • YES!!!!!!! TOUCHING THE VOID

  • Hah I read this story in a magazine called outside. I had to look it up

  • very good video ... what's that song .. the first one ...??

  • I remember when you came into IMH. I was one of the medics on the ambulance in Laramie when you came in. Wow what a story and glad you can share it with others. I wondered how you were doing since.

    Take care!

  • It's amazing how fast things can turn to sh*t, we need to maintain respect for the mountain even when we are rock and rolling. Lucky your belay anchors held! He fell 60 and you fell 200? I'm trying to work that out too.

  • Tons of respect. Great video. Not to be critical, but this is for others watching.

    I don't see any pro at all above your last belay (2:25). That's not good. If you fall above the belay without pro in that is going to work out bad. Which I guess you know already....sorry. I know there is a speed/pro tradeoff, but that first piece is critical to prevent long falls. So I'm assuming he put something in right before starting on the snowfield? Then the dreaded "simulclimbing", ouch.

  • All respect man that is horrible.

  • incredible

  • Wow, amazing video and amazing story. Best wishes with the recovery!

  • So the Bony M song was stuck in Joe Simpsons head down in Peru. Watch "Touching the void." Great video. Way to hang in there trooper.

  • So happy you made it through alive. Good grief you are amazing!

  • This should have 10X the views it has. This is an incredible story. I'll be watching for it in the Reader's Digest :)

  • Props for continuing to film! that is a hard ordeal to overcome, Hope your recovery has been going well! What a battle, Great job getting out!

  • The song you used when dragging out is the same song used in "touching the Void" when a guys breaks his leg and has to crawl out!! way cool!

  • You are a couple of tuff mother fuckers! Way to keep it together.

  • no "Brown girl in the ring" for my youtube vids ever!; only on redtube haha

  • That is a good partner. Stick with him until the end.

  • Big props for keeping your shit together and getting yourselves out. Impressive.

    You made a great video out of it too. I like the Boney M but the scenes of you crawling through the snow reminded me more of Doug Scott on the Ogre. Apparently his nemesis song was Dr Hook's Silvia's Mother. Best wishes on the recovery.

  • @naropetak Thanks. I'll check out the referenced Scott saga and song. 

  • goodluck on the recovery. what's the name of the song on 10:50

  • @giovanntorres7 The XX - Intro

  • Just want to say thanks for letting the cameras roll throughout. Best on your recovery.

  • You're a trooper dude, good luck on recovery! By the way, loved the allusion to "Touching the Void" at 9:48

  • Amazing strength of character/mind & body!! would you change any of yr gear e.g rope etc after this experience? or did every thing serve its purpose? bet every piece of kit was put to the test. Hope u make a great recovery.

  • bro, props you are one tough climber. hope all is well

  • @ColleGabriele ... You're an idiot. Go and do something useful like brush up on your grammar.

  • I bet if you guys went with a mountaine guide no bodey would have gotten hert!

  • Where were the parents!?

  • touching the void *wink*

  • Throughly great video and much respect for the self rescue. That would have put me off.

  • How is the recovery going?

  • @wankel7 Its coming along slowly although I'm still holding out hope for a full recovery. Thanks for asking.

  • You kept calm and kept moving. Admirable. Depending on the difficulty to remove the boot, I think I might have splinted it. BUt a solid boot, as you mentioned, can do pretty well and it's not like you had 15 miles of boulders to navigate (not that crawling in deep snow isn't difficult).

  • Good work, guys. That is a really tough situation to be in and you both handled yourselves like professionals. The perseverance displayed in this is telling of your will to just survive and live to fight another day. You did, and you do. Climb safe!

  • Boney fucking M....

  • guys, thanks for showing us a video with positive mood and no overdramatization - although there is lots of drama happening. i also had a comparable situation once. think it's good to put stuff like that up for others to learn. get well soon!

  • SAME SONG AS ENTER THE VOID! I SEE WHAT YOU DID THERE ^_^

  • God damn Brown Girl in the Ring.

    

  • Thank you for sharing this amazing video! Not sure if it has been asked already but is this area forecasted by an Avalanche Center and if so what was the hazard that day? What climb is this?

  • With the wind and snow SE Wyoming had this autumn I might have suspected any snow fields en-route to be cross-loaded...

  • having suffered a severe foot injury this year and having a familiarity with the pain, this video was quite impressive. amazing perseverance. Thanks for sharing.

  • So glad you guys were okay! You were both lucky, but keep up the adventuring! I'm living vicariously through you!

    p.s. awesome music selections!!

  • The rope is Mammut genesis 8.5mm. Its sheath is clearly not as tough as they advertised.

  • Nice work self-rescuing guys. Everyone should be so hardy. Hope the recovery goes well. Not exactly sure where you were in the Snowies, but thought I should let you know that the Diamond itself , which has some 40 routes, was first climbed in winter in 1967. Since prevailing winds are from the west, snow build-up on the east faces as well as dangerous ridge-top cornices are well-known to local alpinists. Of course, I know better than anyone, that avalanches are unpredictable.

  • My son also sent me this video. Now I can add more gray hairs to my head when he goes ice climbing!! :) 

  • My goodess you are one lucky young man. I am glad that you had the strength to drag and crawl back to the road. Of course you had someone with you all the way - Jesus Christ!

  • Great video. I m so glad you made it out safe! Thank you for sharing such a dramatic experience so we can also learn.

  • Thank you for the retrospection, opening yourself up to the criticism inherent in education, and for being level headed and consummately self reliant as a team. Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

  • WOW! That was intense man! Glad you two made it out of there. That took some real warrior spirit to craw the two miles in that kind of terrain.

  • Thanks for sharing your experience with the rest of us. I hope your physical therapy and recovery are going well.

  • Holy shiot piece Hah!! THIS was painful to watch!! My son who climbs had sent me this vid.

  • every time i feel like whining about some minor injury i'm going to watch this video and sack the fuck up. damn.

  • Comment removed

  • Does anyone know the name of the song at 9:50? thanks!

  • Truly amazing excellent video. Thanks for the surprising effort to keep the camera recording through the ordeal and superb editing.

  • Is this Snowy Range?

  • So did this take you down on PRP? Ha!!! Just kidding. Keep healing, we'll be up on the slopes before you know it.

  • Ouch, you are one tough SOB Ed. Great job on the self rescue. Were you (Ed) receiving a fireman's belay on the rappel?

  • @SgtDeNomad I received a fireman's belay on the trickier first rappel, but not the second. Believe it or not I was pretty lucid throughout, although using my rappelling prussik probably wouldn't have been a bad idea. I was just motivated to get off that climb as quickly as possible and before any more snow broke loose.

  • A collapsible sled would of been pretty handy for the walk back.

  • @LeDaftRobot My thoughts exactly

  • Why the mix and match axes (one nomic and one grivel)?

  • @cameronjaeger I really like mixing and matching tools. It really expands what you can do. The nomics have an unrivaled swing on steep ice, while the matrix tools can plunge nicely in snow and have a hammer for driving pitons. And since they are both leashless, you can use whichever tool is more appropriate for each move.

  • where was the place u went climbing im interested to do this too

  • Very good comming back on your own. Not only to call a chopper! But probably not very good for your anckle? Hope it will be good again. Try some mixed late winter climbing, welcome to Norway!

  • Was the Boney M choice related to the fact that it was the song stuck in the climbers head from the book Touching the Void? Thanks for sharing to help us climbers learn from the experience of others. Did you try splinting the ankle?

  • @311bgallegos Many people have suggested splinting. Interestingly, the boot itself provided a decent splint. Perhaps, I could have strapped a backpack or ice tool around my foot, but the added weight and bulk would have caused quite a bit of extra pain as I crawled (I noticed that quickly), without much benefit. And I definitely wasn't going to try walking on the ankle, no matter how good a splint I made.

  • Rappeling without a Prusik (or you're partner at the end of the rope for safety) seems like a bad idea if you're in so much pain you could black out any second.

    if I think about it... it's always a bad idea.

  • I like the touching the void touch

  • 13:28: morphine smile?

  • @derpdurp82 I wish. Everything was just so damn frozen, I couldn't feel much. Natural pain killers...

  • @edwarren14 Damn. Hope you have speedy recovery, and get back out there soon!

  • Good self rescue work guys. Stay safe!

  • Amazing how you kept your composure. Very inspiring and frightening at the same time. Not sure how long ago this happened but hope you are recovered or recovering.

  • Oh my gosh, you are so calm! Amazing.

  • Good job of getting out of there without any more problems. I hope you have a full recovery. You guys handled it pretty well considering the circumstances.

  • Where were you guys climbing?

  • wow awesome video and great job getting outta there and staying strong. It reminded me a lot of the Touching the Void story. I'm sure you've read/seen it? also, great taste in music :)

  • Nice work on the self rescue, thanks for sharing. Hope you are back out there soon!

  • WOW! That's really all I can muster.

    happy you both made it out alive!

  • thx 4 posting. A good video to learn techniques from. Well done for getting down so quickly.

  • Would it have been possible for a tandem rappel, since the one ankle was shattered?

  • @moclimber123

    Definitely an option, but I think its best to keep things as simple as possible in complicated situations. Because I was lucid and the right leg was working, rappelling under my own power was the best option for us. Definitely faster and safe enough.

  • Thanks for sharing guys. I'm sitting in the Denver airport with a broken ankle from a long weekend at Indian Creek. Had a bit of a hobble/crawl down the talus and through the sagebrush, though nothing as gnarly as your adventure. Glad you're both alive and hope you have a speedy recovery, Ed. Cheers

  • @bradleymarkle1 Good luck on the recovery!

  • Great job on the self-rescue.

  • Glad you both made it out. Great video - a good reminder that no matter how safe you try to be, things can always go wrong when climbing...

  • Phew my heart is pounding just watching you guys. Glad everyone is ok. Thanks for posting this. Was your choice of Boney M an homage to Touching the Void?

  • Comment removed

  • It could have all gone "**** up but you kept your composure. Well done indeed!

    One point guys - the slope above gave way correct? Was the loading on your side of the mountain? i.e. were you in the lee of the wind, and if so do you think this may have been the catalyst for the snow slope to fail?

  • @groovedarete

    The slab almost certainly broke loose because of our weight on it. From our perspective below and the pit we dug at the bottom of the climb, there was some wind loading but it seemed slight and we discovered no unstable slabs. In retrospect, however, the slabs were unstable above us and we should have bailed upon reaching the snowband at the top of the climb.

  • @edwarren14 Thanks for your prompt and informative reply. Hope you will be posting some more of your adventures soon :-)

  • Nails guys, well done on extracting yourself. Matt - Wales, UK

  • Thanks for sharing this guys. Sobering viewing. wishing you a speedy recovery.

  • Fair play guys extracting yourselves, serious question (not a criticism) why didn't you call for a helicopter medivac? Serious situation, but you guys did everything you needed to. Where was the climb?

    Really enjoyed the video, watching you climb, showed nice movement on mixed terrain. Also excellent soundtrack btw! Hope your recovery is a speedy one.

    J.

  • Wow did the second rope survive it the fall then cause one look pretty knackered! nice self rescue guys! hope recovery will be fast

  • Well done on retrieving the situation guys, and hope the injuries heal well.

  • great vid, way to keep your cool in these conditions...

  • Ed & Brice - thanks for sharing to help all climbers be safer. You showed great fortititude and calmness under pressure - well done. You continue to show courage and class through your public sharing of this. My hat is off to you, and I wish you both well.

  • Great vid! Best thing you guys did (at least in the video) is to not panic! Well done and speeding healing. What route is that? Looked like bomber ice!

  • Bon rétablissement. Ok ;- ) on va prendre les cours d'auto sauvetage pour recommencer la saison de glace.

    Bon courage !

  • Nice climbing guys. Nice rescue. One question, what kind of camcorder do you use? THX.

  • @erikhubner1 GoPro HD Helmet Cam. I recommend it. The picture quality is really nice and its got a bunch of functions that are easy to use.

  • Looks like a bit of an epic, lol. Loved the Boney M section.

    Hope you're healing ok.

  • Amazing toughness. Well done of the never say die attitude and the peace of mind to keep the cameras rolling. Get well soon!

  • Amazing effort guys, well done. Shattered my ankle too on a climb, 17 pins and bobs. Back climbing now, its very hard on easy terrain with crampons. But once on steep terrain as usual:)!

    Hussein

  • Having hopped and crawled of a peak in the Dolomites last year with nothing more than a severe sprained ankle and in nice weather, (though an identical 3.5hrs!), I can only shudder at your efforts lads.

    My pal sent me this link as we have just had our first good snowfall this year in Scotland, and we are chomping on the bit to get out there!

    Heal well, and good luck for the future......thanks for sharing this with us.

  • You guys are warriors!! happy y'all made it safe back home

  • Tough Dude!

  • Thumbs up the music in general.. especially Joe Simpson / Touching the Void ref..

    Well done on the GoProing also.

    PS get well soon.

  • Fine work getting yourselves home safe and sound. The joe simpson tribute was brilliant.

    Have to say my favorite line: "Are you bleeding?!" "Yeah." --> Matter of fact, let's get this show on the road. That's the hardcore part of this. Nice job and way to go not waiting for someone else to come save your bacon. Heal fast and know that you've earned climbers' respect.

  • Thanks for sharing - potent reminder that surviving the fall is only the start of your troubles in alpine climbing. Heal fast, Ed.

  • Hats off guys for keeping spirits up and continuing with the movie. Very graphic, I was cringing with every step.

    Nice Joe Simpson tribute too, with the brown girl song. Indeed strange soundtrack if u dont know the story.

    Joe was the english guy who broke his leg at 17,000ft in peru, tried to self rescue got dropped in a crevasse,his budd left him for dead, joe crawled out with one leg and then crawled 7miles back to camp. He was singing that song during a hallucination.

    Tr la la la

  • That is some very raw and real footage that really captures the ordeal. Way to keep it together boys.

  • the music is kinda out of place here... bizarre. great footage tho. way to not panic.

  • What climb were they on? Glad they're both OK. Impressive self-rescue!

  • @tomwillard

    We believe it was an FA. Nothing too challenging - somewhere in the WI3+/M3 range.

  • Comment removed

  • how right you are about the adrenaline quashing the acute pain... not sure if it helps to watch this stuff when preparing for routes. glad to see someone with that kind of will continuing to kick around this ball awhile longer. only would say the music was distracting after the accident, likely would have chosen something else... maybe Boney M., “Brown Girl in the Ring".....especially for the 'swim' out. hope you climb again if you want to.

  • I think we will pass on mountain climbing -

    Glad you made it out - May the Lord do a quick work in healing your injuries.

    Aunt Jo Rae (Jackie's Aunt) :)

  • Glad you guys make it out.

  • 3:45, Ed enters beast mode.  Hope everything works out.

  • Glad you made it through that, Ed. Holy crap.

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