try getting the cooler element from an old air conditioner or old refrigerator freezer element
they are usually made of copper I'm not sure how they will withstand the caustic but using acid like Tartaric, Acetic or Phosphoric shouldn't be an issue pump your cells electrolyte through the cooler & blow a fan on the cooler also if your not running a pulse width modulator on your design you will be generating allot more heat than you really need to as you will have no control over current draw
well I'd like to see the results when you do thank you for the clip this was something similar to what I was going to build to run my car some time ago but on a very much smaller scale
Screw cells have some very interesting operating principles and advantages, but one of the limitations is that it is really difficult to introduce a voltage divider circuit eliminating current leakage to make it compatible with 12VDC.
What you really need is a way to drop the voltage down to 2.2VDC before it gets to the cell. (a PWM as "one" example of how to do it.)
Hi new to utube I have a parrallel cell it works pretty good. One cell is 7 plates and one is 6 plates. The one acts as a resitor for the other and lowers voltage to the one. I really think parralel is the way to go. Look at bob boyce design his is this way with hi voltage dc.Keep up the good work good luck.
Check out zerofossilfuels videos, he has designed one of his electronic peaces to regulate the voltage to increase start up production and to de-crease voltage to decrease or maintain level heat while maintaining high HHO output. This guy thought of everything.
I've been along time subscriber of ZeroFossleFuel's videos and like his work very much.
As I recall, he became my second subscription right after EletrikRide and just before sirHoax.
For the time being I now have a PWM I can use until I can come up with something better. So hopefully I can double back on this project in the near future.
hi lutherp40, lots of rain in michigan these days i see. i'm drawing a lot of amps too. i'm trying more surface area which seems to be what u are doing as well. i'm still wondering about using screws. what convinced you not to use plates?
My first few test configurations using plates were not very impressive. The video from Fordenergy showing his 'helix' cell (one of my favorites) gave me the inspiration to think up this particular design.
I can not claim it is a good design until I can prove my many LPM and MMW values.
Mostly been caught up in trying to be able to do just that rather improving the cell.
I need to know where I've been to know if I am going in the right direction.
I let this system run for about 2 hours non-stop at 7.5 amps. There was some normal heating over that time, but the temperature equalized and leveled off at about 110 deg F.
I would like to run this at about 15 amps for the same time period and see if I can go without an chiller system.
Very nice setup. I like your theory about the heat distribution. To increase the amps, you could add more baking soda to each cell. This will cause the amps to be pulled.
I noticed, it looks like you have the cells hooked in series. Have you tried hooking them up in parrallel?
Just throwing out some ideas for you to try. Good luck.
Playing or tweaking the electrolyte and/or plate spacing is what I am going to need to get my amps back up while wired in series.
There are multiple reason why these are wired in series. One of which is that the system would draw in excess of 60 or 70 amps. The problem with that is my power system and wiring can probably only sustain about 10 to 15 amps continuously with an occasional draw of about 30 amps.
I'm afeared to wire them in parallel is the only reason why they are in series. ;-)
try getting the cooler element from an old air conditioner or old refrigerator freezer element
they are usually made of copper I'm not sure how they will withstand the caustic but using acid like Tartaric, Acetic or Phosphoric shouldn't be an issue pump your cells electrolyte through the cooler & blow a fan on the cooler also if your not running a pulse width modulator on your design you will be generating allot more heat than you really need to as you will have no control over current draw
WolfVecho 3 years ago
Thank you for the feedback.
I more or less came to that same conclusion a quite while back.
This 3 pack wired in series was a feeble attempt to drop the gap voltages down.
The primary problem was that there were significant gas leaks "everywhere"!!
Hydrogen is a very small molecule. It can get out where most anything else can't.
Basically all my screw cell development has been temporarily suspended for the time being.
I am hoping to come back to these one day. :)
lutherp40 3 years ago
well I'd like to see the results when you do thank you for the clip this was something similar to what I was going to build to run my car some time ago but on a very much smaller scale
WolfVecho 3 years ago
Screw cells have some very interesting operating principles and advantages, but one of the limitations is that it is really difficult to introduce a voltage divider circuit eliminating current leakage to make it compatible with 12VDC.
What you really need is a way to drop the voltage down to 2.2VDC before it gets to the cell. (a PWM as "one" example of how to do it.)
lutherp40 3 years ago
Hi new to utube I have a parrallel cell it works pretty good. One cell is 7 plates and one is 6 plates. The one acts as a resitor for the other and lowers voltage to the one. I really think parralel is the way to go. Look at bob boyce design his is this way with hi voltage dc.Keep up the good work good luck.
razorfuely 3 years ago
Hey lutherp40
Check out zerofossilfuels videos, he has designed one of his electronic peaces to regulate the voltage to increase start up production and to de-crease voltage to decrease or maintain level heat while maintaining high HHO output. This guy thought of everything.
HOTFLMAN 3 years ago
Thank you for your feedback and comment.
I've been along time subscriber of ZeroFossleFuel's videos and like his work very much.
As I recall, he became my second subscription right after EletrikRide and just before sirHoax.
For the time being I now have a PWM I can use until I can come up with something better. So hopefully I can double back on this project in the near future.
lutherp40 3 years ago
I think your getting it dialed in just fine :)
roompainter 3 years ago
hi lutherp40, lots of rain in michigan these days i see. i'm drawing a lot of amps too. i'm trying more surface area which seems to be what u are doing as well. i'm still wondering about using screws. what convinced you not to use plates?
FIZZYH2O 3 years ago
My first few test configurations using plates were not very impressive. The video from Fordenergy showing his 'helix' cell (one of my favorites) gave me the inspiration to think up this particular design.
I can not claim it is a good design until I can prove my many LPM and MMW values.
Mostly been caught up in trying to be able to do just that rather improving the cell.
I need to know where I've been to know if I am going in the right direction.
lutherp40 3 years ago
As an update to this video...
I let this system run for about 2 hours non-stop at 7.5 amps. There was some normal heating over that time, but the temperature equalized and leveled off at about 110 deg F.
I would like to run this at about 15 amps for the same time period and see if I can go without an chiller system.
lutherp40 3 years ago
Very nice setup. I like your theory about the heat distribution. To increase the amps, you could add more baking soda to each cell. This will cause the amps to be pulled.
I noticed, it looks like you have the cells hooked in series. Have you tried hooking them up in parrallel?
Just throwing out some ideas for you to try. Good luck.
tcvaldez 3 years ago
Playing or tweaking the electrolyte and/or plate spacing is what I am going to need to get my amps back up while wired in series.
There are multiple reason why these are wired in series. One of which is that the system would draw in excess of 60 or 70 amps. The problem with that is my power system and wiring can probably only sustain about 10 to 15 amps continuously with an occasional draw of about 30 amps.
I'm afeared to wire them in parallel is the only reason why they are in series. ;-)
lutherp40 3 years ago