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  • Red 5, I didn't know I was a dork, LOL. Can one use those "dry hopping bags" to do a brew in the bag beer? Thanks. Cheers!!!

  • @drolretfa Those bags wouldt be big enough if you were doing a full blown brew in a bag

  • LOL ! Well I guess I'm a Dork then, as soon as you mentioned the name of your home brewery (Red 5 Brewing) LOL I knew exactly what it was LMAO ! Well Cheers to all of us Dorks then ! As always great videos my friend .

  • @WatchToddPattison hahah thanks man! Cheers

  • dude i wish you were my neighbor...

  • @rawimpact hahah i think my neighbors this I am making meth when Im out there brewing

  • I can't find that container on us plastics website. I'm blind. Help please.

  • I tried to read most comments and did not see this. You mentioned 1 oz per gallon and I believe it is 1 oz per 5 gallons (as you originally mentioned before correcting yourself) on the Starsan. Also, I was thinking there was a lot of info on HBT recently about the 5.2 PH mix not changing the PH levels in the water/mash at all. I'll see if I can drum it up and shoot you a message. Great video! Looking forward to seeing the other two right now.

  • @yambor44 Really? Ill have to find that thread about the 5.2. If thats true that really sucks!! Id hate to have to buy gallons of water to brew! Enjoy the other vids!

  • Red Leader standing by. Lock s-foils in attack position.

  • Great video, Chris! I'll check out the other parts now! Cheers!

  • Thanks for the info mate!!! I always enjoy watching your videos. Cheers!!!!

  • Nice quality video! Thanks for posting

  • @dEthEiGht No problem! Thanks for watching. Cheers!

  • Not sure about no chill. I mean chilling quickly is key to get the cold break material to drop out. Also, plastic isn't supposed to have hot wort in it.

    Also, letting it cool would create suction when you open it vacuuming in outside environment when you open to pitch the yeast.

    I'm curious as to how this way tuns out. Seems like many ways to get infection in your beer.

  • @FishRock77 The final part will be up next Friday, which is the tasting. Not to give it away but I must have lucked out on this one because there are no off flavors that I can detect at all.

  • i tried to get red 5 for my xbox gt but had to settle for ech0 0ne

  • awsome chris!! you have inspired me to do all grain

  • @timmythorpe Glad to hear it!

  • RED 5! LOVE IT!!! if i'm asuming right... Star Wars!?

  • @JakobSchweikart Yessir!

  • @BeerGeekNation That's awesome! such a good name!

  • that glass looks like the Dogfish head glass i have. is it what i think it is?

  • @TheNewBrew88 Yep thats what it is. Love that glass.

  • @BeerGeekNation O man i know what you meen. that glass is my fav by far, i use it all the time

    nice video man cheers!

  • Great video.

    My only worry about long, slow chills is the danger of DMS, especially in lagers and light bodied beers.

    From the PicoBrewery website:

    "...The decomposition reaction that converts s-methylmethionine to DMS is driven by heat. Once you shut off the heat and start cooling the wort, scrubbing action of the steam is halted. However, DMS continues to be formed until the wort is below about 160oF. Hence, a long steep will increase DMS..."

  • @OPE08 With a 90 min boil DMS formation is not an issue. The guys over at homebrewtalk have been doing this for over a year now and all of them report minimal to no DMS taste in the beer. But we shall see as they say. Im just hoping it comes out ok.

  • @BeerGeekNation - I'm sure that, in general, it will come out fine. I'm not sure that it is a process that I would advise for the most part, only because not every beer has a 90 minute boil. Honestly, I dont believe DMS is a big issue, but I am always wary of "time saving" steps for some reason.

    Granted, plate chillers can be a pain, but the avg brewer probably has an immersion chiller, and outside of the hot zones like where I live, chilling isnt that much of a pain.

    I avoid HBT

    Cheers!

  • @BeerGeekNation Yeah I use a CFC and my setup currently is just a pain in the a** to get it setup for that. I have to life the boil kettle onto another shelf and move all this other stuff. So I wanted to try this method out to see how it worked. Im actually thinking about going to the Blichmann Top Tier setup with a plate chiller. Ill be posting the next part of this vid series on Fri by the way.

  • Nice video. A few things, though. You said oxiclean is bleach based. It is not. It is sodium percarbonate & sodium carbonate. The most important thing is that it's Cl-free. PBW is sodium metasilicate and sodium percarbonate, pretty close to oxi. You can mix your own pbw cheaply. You probably misspoke, but you referred to isoenzymes when I think you meant to say isoalpha acids. The hop schedule alteration really depends on how quickly the wort cools down. Is 3 days long enough for dry hop?

  • @chemicalcraig69 Ahh I was always under the impression that it was a bleach based clean. Thanks for clearing that up! Makes me a bit less paranoid about using it now. And yeah I did mispeak when I said isoenzyes rather then isoalpha acids. I work in a medical lab so we are saying isoenzyme all day. Force of habit. And I realize the hop schedule depends on how fas the wort is cooled but based on many batches done by people at HBT the consensus is a 20 min time is enough heat to extract AA.

  • great video my friend:-)  all-grain-greetings from austria.

  • @BrauereiTUBE Thanks my friend. Cheers!

  • Nice beer glass.

  • @TheHammer609 Thanks. One of my favorite daily drinking type glasses.

  • Nice video. Can't wait for the rest.

    DMS formation is not a myth but with a 90 minute boil in a highly hopped beer like this I doubt you could taste it even if you wanted.

    I can tell you with certainty that full wort hopping is a myth though. I have done three tests of this. Identical beers with one FWH and the other with just a 60 minute addition. One was a helles, one a Vienna lager and the last a blonde ale. In a blind triangle test none of the several testers could taste any difference

  • Cool.

  • I'm kinda curious as to how that pH stabilizer works; products that increase pH are basic and substances that decrease pH are acidic... how can one product be both at the same time? Thanks for the info, keep up the good work!

  • My neighbors parrot can crap better entertainment than this.

    How do you live with yourself?

  • @BettaBeerAuthorities That sounds like it says more about you than it does about him.

  • dude ur tap ph is 11?! thats really high!

  • @SouthernOregonOrgani HAHA yeah I know tell me about it. 

  • Life is too short, drink amazing home brew! Good Job Chris, I use starsan and pbw as well.

  • @Tantrum777 COol man thanks! Yeah they are must haves for sure!

  • red 5 this is gold leader.

  • @insulatedmemory HAHA I was waiting for a comment like that. :) Cheers

  • Awesome, ive been waiting for this series!

  • @jtp86 Yah sorry it took so long! But there will be probably 2-4 more episode of this series that will be posted each Friday for however long it takes to get them all out.

  • Nice to see you into homebrewing.Thanks Rick

  • @123111449 I have home brewed for years but never did a full blown video fro it yet. Cheers!

  • Great video man, ever since my last review, I fell into homebrewing hard. 7 batches in fewer months and I still can't get enough.  Listening to the airlock bubble away on my session Black IPA as I type this. Keep these coming!

  • @duckmanco04 Damn a session black ipa sounds nice! Cheers

  • Spray bottles are the best! I used tap water though. I heard if you used distilled water then it will last even longer. I've been using OxyClean for cleaning but I should probably switch to PBW. I do rinse really well though. I should get that pH stabilizer to help out with the Campden tablet.

    Looking forward to part 2.

  • @StumpyJoeJr I've tried the oxyclean stuff, but my water is SO hard, it leaves a film....I've been using one step for cleaning and star san for sanitation.

  • @StumpyJoeJr Yeah PBW is great stuff for cleaning pots but Oxyclean still works the best for bottles. The PH stabilizer is such and easy step to improve your beer its worth it.

  • Very good how-to pt1 :)

  • @AlejandroInAustin Thanks man. Cheers!

  • Awesome job, REALLY Good info! I've brewed 5 batches so far & I alway did the "No chill" method. Did not change my hop schedule & now I know my beers where over hopped. I looked a dozens of "what happened to propduce this falvor" charts & never really seen anything that I was doing wrong, other than Maybe oxidation & brewing @ 72F. I now believe its more to do with the hop schedule more. Can't wait till your next video & I hope this is a new series that u'll be able to do. Thanks, David

  • @WannaBeDj100 Yeah you have to follow that chart or you will end up with way overly bitter beers using this method. Glad it helped!! CHeers

  • Yeah, I would worry about DMS formulation with a no-chill method.

  • @Optimatorz anything that could cause DMS is boiled off in the first 15 min....the DMS thing is pretty much a myth.

  • @bmeyer44 I'm not being critical of your video and admit that I'm just regurgitating what others have told me about DMS (i.e. that some SMM is left behind if you don't do an extended boil). How long do you boil a batch? Have you tried this? If so, which beers? I'm really curious to see how this turns out because I'D LOVE TO SAVE all of that time it takes to bring beers down to pitching temperature. Especially lagers.

  • @Optimatorz Hey not problem...I do full boils for 60 min. I have done 4 batches using a "no chill method"..OK on a couple of them I packed snow around the pot, just cause I had it! I have brewed a smoked porter, a moose drool clone, a cream ale and an amber ale.

    DO take the advice about the hop additions and times.

    I checked the Aussie forums a LOT before I tried this, and they've been using it for years with good results..

    I like to think outside the box when it comes to brewing..

  • @bmeyer44 check out my channel if you'd like...I have all the brewing on there that I've done. BIAB, No chill, splitting yeast packs..etc..etc.

    all fun stuff!!!

  • @bmeyer44 Exactly. Its been proven time and time again by the Homebrewtalk guys who have been doing this method for years

  • @Optimatorz From Hombrewtalk DMS: This issue has been discussed in other threads, but I will touch on it here. It has been claimed as a non-issue for "no chill" proponents, and a huge factor by the opposition. An extended boil of 90 minutes will remove the vast majority of DMS pre-cursors, with will help prevent formation of detectable levels during a slow cooling process.

  • @Optimatorz Now if we consider we frequently tell noobs to chill their wort w/in 30 minutes using the sink and ice method, you have a rough window of ~20 minutes to bring the wort below 180 deg to prevent any detectable DMS formation.

  • @Optimatorz This is roughly a 2 deg/minute heat loss over a surface area of 4-5 square feet (figuring a little less than a square foot per side of the container) with a temperature difference between wort and ambient of at least 100deg at the lowest temp of 180deg for the wort, and an ambient of 80deg.Now I am sure someone out there is willing to crunch the numbers on that, but from here it looks incredibly feasible and the formation of DMS would really be a non-issue.

  • I plan on trying the FWH also.

  • @bmeyer44 Yeah im curious as to how it will come out in the final project.

  • I do a version of no chill also...

  • @bmeyer44 What do you do differently?

  • @BeerGeekNation since it was winter here, I just left it in the pot, covered it with a towel soaked in star san and left it out overnight....brought it in the next day, let it come to temp and then pitched the yeast...I'd like to get one of those containers, but maybe in the future.

  • Just chill your pot in a ice bath to make your day faster. That's what i do anyway. It's cool to see everyone's technecs on how to brew, I'll be watching for next one. You should link this to the sjporr brew challenge. Were all gonna brew beer with a basic grain bill and then send them out to everyone that's doing it.

  • @dorf68 Yeah that works too. I used to do it that way then I got a CFC, ive been using that for about 3 years now and im just tired of how much time it takes to setup so I wanted to find an easier way. The problem for me chilling in the sink is I go all grain so I do full boils so it would take forever to cool in the sink for me.

  • Nice work Chris. Can't wait to see the rest...

  • @TheGrandOleHopry1 Thanks. Everything is shot except for the kegging portion. So im hoping to have an episode each friday for the next few weeks.

  • With the five star sanitizer, do you have to let that dry before it comes in contact with your beer? Also, do you sanitize everything with that solution (bottles, and so on) or just the parts you mentioned in the vid? I'm very curious because I've been using bleach which is a HUGE pain to rinse and I suspect my bottles on my last batch had a chlorine trace since they've been conditioning for a week and haven't carbonated yet. Thanks.

  • @capitalistraven No u do not have to let the Star San dry thats the beauty of it. I use it on my fermentation buckets, spoons, pump, bottles and my kegs. Anything that will touch cold wort I use Star San on. When I fill my kegs i fill it with about 3 gallons of water and star san shake it up and dump the star san. There is still a ton of foam and star san in there but it doesn't matter because it does not affect the taste of the beer at all. Much easier then bleach

  • @BeerGeekNation you have made me a happy brewer. Definitely buying some for my next batch. Cheers.

  • @capitalistraven Yeah its great stuff and well worth the money.

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