@vyoufinder Yes, it's a $35 tube bender I got at harbor freight. Comes with dies for 1/2" and 7/8" tubing. The 1/2" part broke the first time I used it, but I've bent many 22.2mm chain stays with the 7/8" part. Works good for smaller (10 degree or less) bends. Another method is to cap one end of the stay with a silacone earplug, pour water in the stay, freeze it, and then stick it in a vice and bend away. Ice keeps the stay from crimping as long as the bend is smallish (10 degrees).
Howdy, what is that mitering jig you are using in the vid? is that something you put together yourself using a drill press or is that a specifically designed tool? Im wondering as i am looking into building my first frame over the summer months. thanks
Howdy, what is that mitering jig you are using in the vid? is that something you put together yourself using a drill press or is that a specifically designed tool? Thanks
I am a first time builder hoping to construct a single speed/fixie frame. As I understand from your book the difficulty of incorporating horizontal droupouts for a single speed frame is aligning them when brazing so that the drive wheel is in line with the frame. Is this correct?
@djSmow yes, getting the dropouts to line up correctly is called getting them "in phase" which can be tricky. On the bright side, even if you don't get the dropouts (track ends) in phase, you will have at least one "sweet spot' in which the rear wheel is aligned in the stays. Problem is, the sweet spot might not be at the right place for correct chain tension given your cog/chainring tooth count.
@Axbent No, often the fit is too tight for the tubes. One can bore them out with a grinding bit on a rotary tool or hand drill. The hand drill works better for boring. The rotary tool is better for grinding miters.
Is that a conduit bender you're using to bend stays? How has that been working out?
vyoufinder 2 months ago
@vyoufinder Yes, it's a $35 tube bender I got at harbor freight. Comes with dies for 1/2" and 7/8" tubing. The 1/2" part broke the first time I used it, but I've bent many 22.2mm chain stays with the 7/8" part. Works good for smaller (10 degree or less) bends. Another method is to cap one end of the stay with a silacone earplug, pour water in the stay, freeze it, and then stick it in a vice and bend away. Ice keeps the stay from crimping as long as the bend is smallish (10 degrees).
mchimonas 2 months ago
Howdy, what is that mitering jig you are using in the vid? is that something you put together yourself using a drill press or is that a specifically designed tool? Im wondering as i am looking into building my first frame over the summer months. thanks
MrSoundnut 9 months ago
Howdy, what is that mitering jig you are using in the vid? is that something you put together yourself using a drill press or is that a specifically designed tool? Thanks
MrSoundnut 9 months ago
I am a first time builder hoping to construct a single speed/fixie frame. As I understand from your book the difficulty of incorporating horizontal droupouts for a single speed frame is aligning them when brazing so that the drive wheel is in line with the frame. Is this correct?
djSmow 9 months ago
@djSmow yes, getting the dropouts to line up correctly is called getting them "in phase" which can be tricky. On the bright side, even if you don't get the dropouts (track ends) in phase, you will have at least one "sweet spot' in which the rear wheel is aligned in the stays. Problem is, the sweet spot might not be at the right place for correct chain tension given your cog/chainring tooth count.
mchimonas 9 months ago
are the lugs bored when you get them?
Axbent 10 months ago
@Axbent No, often the fit is too tight for the tubes. One can bore them out with a grinding bit on a rotary tool or hand drill. The hand drill works better for boring. The rotary tool is better for grinding miters.
mchimonas 10 months ago
@mchimonas Got a lathe dude! ;)
Axbent 10 months ago