Added: 3 years ago
From: Banyan23
Views: 37,586
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  • You can google stainless steel foil and then hit shopping to filter the results. I found a 12 by 24 roll for 11 bucks.

    Banyan thank you for thinking of stainless steel foil... If it has not been said before. You are a freaking genius! It cuts costs while maintaining efficiency.

    You sir are gonna be instrumental in affecting the hydrogen change for this idea.

  • @ATSucks1

    Just make sure you order a SS Foil grad 316 other wise our water will get really dirty.

  • @DegreeStudio

    I made the plates myself cutting them in SS foil using a blade.

    In your question do you actually mean: Where did you found the SS foil?

    I don't know where you live but I still have a small piece here that I could put on eBay for you. Let me know if you are interested.

  • Why do you need a pump? You could just plumb it so that the hot water was allowed to rise to the tank top and cooler water from the bottom would likely push in and circulate naturally from the weight. Now it was just a guess, so if there are any trolls out there, I won't feed you so go away.

  • hahaha bro you have the funniest accent ever lol :P and i like your cell and building one my self so hopefully it will be as good as yours :)

  • I think cathode is exo thermic (gets extra hot from reaction) Anode raction is endo thermic (gets cooled by reaction) Cathode hot is good = more heat = more electrons into water. See vacuum tube heater circuit cathode same idea. Try not to let Anode suck heat from Cathode = lower thermal efficiency, let Anode suck heat from ambient.

  • what about the cillinder designs with fewer edges, are they still losing too much voltage? I read in old 1960's rag low voltage is better. Your views?

    As for nuteural plates keeping cool,

    what of the coil models? too hot?

  • Hi

    Why you need neutral Plate does it give more HHO ? or for just spacing.Thnaks

  • The neutral plates divide the voltage and produce hho as well. It is important to divide the voltage so the water does not over heat. Tip: The correct voltage between plates will be ~2 volts. If you apply 12 volts you should build a cell like that +nnnnn- The "n" stand for Neutral.

  • just a silly question? what is the benefit of the dry cell compared with the regular hho generator(plates inmerse in the solution). by the way nice work you are doing, install it on a car is gone be a good project.

  • Really simple, in a wet cell you have huge amount of volt leakage on the edge of the plates which you don't have on a dry cell. This means that, you'll produce more gas, more efficiently with a dry cell than with a wet cell.

  • Exactly. Moreover, 'slosh' or waves in the reservoir (uncovering the plates and/or changing plate to plate resistance) which impedes performance. Another way to solve this problem is baffles inside the cell; however, the space lost isn't practical. Also, the small positive pressure achieved limits losses (also doesn't have to be regulated) and better induces engine intake. The pressure also magnifies the vacuum effect of the engine sucking in air(fuel).

  • Topic Nice Work.

    @liaty77

    It seems, that the benefit of the drycell is the following.

    The moving water pulls the tiny bubbles.

    Without injection(streaming elektrolyte), the bubbles are getting bigger and bigger, til they rise up in the water.

    Where is a bubble, the surface is blocked, faster Transfer to the top and more production.

    More production is it here, i made a basic dry cell(videos), and the output is better, then it was with the same plates in an open system.

    Forgive me my bad english.

  • Your thermal problem can be solved if you use a series cell design, every independent cell you add will reduce your temeprature, the idea is to keep your cell voltage under 2 volts, six indepnetent cells will do the trick, check bob boyce cell (pdf 9) to see what I am talking about. Great work btw, keep it up, someone will get it right.

  • The cell you are looking at is a 13 plates cell (+nnnnn-nnnnn+). The heat is created because of the really thin SS that I'm using. I planed to solve this problem by using ticker plates (0.02") for the positive and negative while keep on using SS Foil 0.002" for the neutral plates. I will be publishing the blue print for this new design in a week or tow. Stay tune! Thanks!

  • I have a suggestion for your thermal Problem and your spacer problem

    Thermal: SS is 300 times less conductive then copper so to cut down your heat make more connections. I have had good luck with 4 corners. With this you can also cut down on conductor size or leave it and crank in more power. Your pump idea is the way to go but watch your flow rate to high can cut production.

    Spacers: Use long rails not local spots this will give you much better support on thin material

    Good luck work safe!!

  • Sorry for coming back to you after so long! I plan to use ticker plates (0.02") for the electrified plates and Foil (0.002") for the neutral plates. So the building coast will stay low and the electrified plates wont heat up.

    I already did test with pump. It doesn't solve the heating problem. But I did listen to your recommendation about the long rail as spacers. The work is still in progress...we will see!

    Thanks!

  • high temp of the water is good, because the hotter the water is, the easier the water turns into HHO! a pump is a great idea because it will keep the water level in the cell all the way up, and prevent an air bubble from forming at the top. you should see how much liters you are producing per minute, and then add the water pump and see what the increase in production is. Great work, even tho you copied scare crow, he does not seem to mind. by the way did I say great job? keep up the good work!

  • Thanks for the kind words! Yes I did copy Smartscarcrow and I'm sure he is hopping that everybody will do it. It is not a competition but all about spreading the information. But the difference in my work is that I'm using SS 316 foil 0.002 mil of an inch. It is cheaper, easy to cut but little bit tricky to work whit. I just wanted to show that it is possible to work whit foil.

  • oh my, yes ... how many times do I have to say it ??? JUST BUILD IT !!!

    As I am sure you have found, this design is delightfully simple to construct and performs quite well. The basic design is from the late 1800's. More recently, a fellow named Tero Ranta popularized this design with a document he published in 2006.

    This is NOT my invention and I make no proprietary claims to it. The intent of my videos was to show people how easy it is to build so they can do it too.

    press on !!!

  • hello where did you get the stanles steel from

  • €1.54 per litre in Germany today,yes ,keep at it!

  • If my calculation are good this is around $9.2855 US dollar per gallon. AOUCH!!!!

  • Great video. You ever thought of using something like a radiator to cool the water? As far as adding it to a car, you could use a transmission cooler. Small enough but effective.

  • In fact the water doesn't need to be cool down. If your device is well build and the right electric current is apply to the cell, the water temperature should not get to the bowling point. To prevent the cell to heats up and boiled the water, make sure that you'll not apply more than 2 volts per space between the plates EXP: +2v N 4v N 6v N 8v N 10v N 12v -. The "N" Stand for Neutral plate. All extra voltage will be transform in heat.

  • My cell is well build but it's still heating up because of my not to good power source that I'm using. It is cheaper for my to buy a pump then buying a new power supply or a car battery. The problem I have with this PS is that I can't apply more that 11 amp to my cell and stay at 12 volts.

  • very interesting implementation ...

  • Thanks Mr. Smartscarecrow! It is a honor to have you comment on my videos!

    Thanks again!

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