Martin cabin 6-3-09 chinking log walls

[MrJERICHOJIM]

What are the ingredients for the mortar is it just cement or are their adhesives added

[James1toknow]

I like learning from the Old Timers they know there stuff! I'm 51 and still learning thanks!

[DevanHoldaway]

Why do you put Batt insulation in between the logs if you're shoving it in there like that?

[CanadianReich]

where the window meets the wall whats keeping the logs spaced? Would they not fall down and compress after the window hole was cut? Are there spacers holding up the logs or perhaps wooden spikes through the window's wood into the logs? curious

[CanadianReich]

@CanadianReich also, whats the wood treated with there? looks glossy.

[Qdogsman]

@CanadianReich Check my website at paul and ellen dot com (remove the spaces and change dot to . ) Click on the picture, then click on Construction Summary. It goes into the detail you are looking for. Steel dowels keep the logs spaced; without them, the logs would settle. There are 3 60d galvanized spikes driven through the window and door frames into the end-grain of each butting log. Thanks for asking.

[CanadianReich]

@Qdogsman  thanks for answering :)

[Qdogsman]

@CanadianReich You're welcome. Thanks for asking. The wood on the inside of the cabin is treated with High gloss oil-based Verathane. On the outside, logs, fascia, and ceiling boards, it is treated with TWP 501C, which is not glossy.

[CanadianReich]

@Qdogsman thats what i woulda guessed...ive got that on my floor. sanded down the old boards and put it on...looks great! (verathane). Thinned it out with turpentine 1st coat.

[carasoft]

besides the video i love the music ;)

cheers

[ragdump]

It is nice to see what we learned in class in action,I'm getting ready to chink and it sure is nice to see what I'm up against

[Qdogsman]

@ragdump The most important things are the nailing and the mixing of the mortar. I hope you watched those videos too.

[ragdump]

Do you belong to the LHBA or take there course

[Qdogsman]

@ragdump  Yes and Yes. I am a proud member of LHBA. I took their course in 1991.

[suzyqsurprises]

Thanks for the video. What do you use between the logs before chinking? Looks like spray styrofoam. Looking forward to your reply.

[Qdogsman]

@suzyqsurprises You're welcome. I use plain unbacked fiberglass insulation first. See my video on "Insulating Log Walls" from Qdogsman.

[Qdogsman]

I'm not an expert in old pioneer methods so my opinion is probably no better than yours. My guess is that the best way for the pioneers was to use whatever materials they had available. If moss or clay was easy to get, then that's probably what they would use. If they had brick mortar and galvanized nails, then that would be even better yet.

[badazz876]

what is the best way you think to seal the logs doing it the old pioneer way ? moss , mud , newspaper ?

[cevod123]

Excellent Video!! We are going to be building a Butt and Pass Cabin starting next spring. Your Cabin is beautiful.

[greenluigi123]

hey good vid but im just wondering whether the nails replace the mesh sort of stuff i dnt realy know as i am only young chears, scott

[plainswolf]

Very nice video! Very instructive and fun to watch. Thanks for posting this.

[pigs3diff1s1977]

Varnish is great for T&G, no movement. Logs move, period. Newer acrylics remain flexible. Fiberglass rots logs, period. I have seen it many times. Mortar will fall out, trust me. It may be ok for traditional type stuff, if you like re-chinking every so often. Closed cell backer rod = no moisture problem. Look it up.

[Qdogsman]

No offense but I don't believe you. See my previous note about the fiberglass. The mortar won't fall out unless someone uses a hammer. There is a galvanized nail driven into the lower log and embedded in the mortar every 2 inches. They will hold it in spite of hairline cracks developing. Thanks for your concern.

[Qdogsman]

Hi pigs3..., When will the varnish crack? Check back with me then and I'll give you a report. The fiberglass will retain moisture if there is a vapor barrier, like Permachink, on the outside, The mortar is permeable so the moisture will wick from the fiberglass to the mortar and evaporate on the outside. Check back in a couple of decades and we'll see who's right.

[pigs3diff1s1977]

This guy has it all wrong. First, NEVER varnish logs as it will crack and spider web. Logs are in a constant state of flux, and varnish is rigid when dry. Secondly, NEVER use fiberglass insulation between logs as it will retain moisture and rot those nice logs faster than anything. Lastly, like kingadacreek replied, traditional mortar went out with the Reagan Administration. Use Permachink or Log Jam and be done with it. Mortar is a constant maintenance issue.

[ragdump]

@pigs3diff1s1977 synthetic chinking seals the log locks in moisture rots logs mortar breaths lets moisture evaporate LHBA has been using this method for many years it works

[pigs3diff1s1977]

@ragdump Sorry, I disagree. Regular mortar will fail and will allow moisture IN and set there, leading to rot. Most new log homes built now are all new growth timber and will shrink, mortar will not compensate for shrinkage like synthetic. Synthetic mortar leading to rot is a fallacy.

[kingadacreek]

motar deffinetly doesn't adhear to log. so it doesnt seal properly like logs shift and move and expand and contract all the time. so when this happens the motor just stays in place...so while it may be alot cheaper, it is not even close to being practical for proper "sealing" of your cabin...check out weatherall brand log home products...as that is what i use in all of my log home jobs...ive been restoring log homes for about 8 years

[Qdogsman]

Hi kingadacreek. The galvanized nails embedded in the mortar every two inches devinitely holds the mortar to the log. A crack might form at the top of the mortar joint as the logs shrink and move, If the crack get too big, it can be caulked. I haven't seen a crack in mine yet that will admit an ant. The real benefit is that the walls breathe through the mortar and let water vapor, radon, formaldehyde, etc. to leave the building.

[pengashaq]

Great job demonstrating how the process of log chinking unfolds. Been searching for economical alternatives to permachink.

Thanks.

[Qdogsman]

Thanks. I hope this helps. Brick mortar is one heck of a lot cheaper than permachink.