Added: 3 years ago
From: TexasStraightShooter
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  • You Sir are a Ass! Take this video down and do some research on anealing brass!

  • @jaysonvilett

    Obviously you are wrong because this method works.

    Only the head of a brass case needs to be hard, the neck and shoulder needs to be soft.

    The neck and shoulder are supported by the chamber, and need to stretch to fit the chamber when fired.

  • One thing is you are heating brass too long-with that torch you should count to 2.5 seconds and tip over into water bath-also never go red hot-count one thousand one/ one thousand two/ one thousand and tip...you can always buy new bras you cant buy a new face.You have a hot torch flame.

  • German dude here I did learn a lot about metal is my job .... u can to it cherry if you like to get them to soft .... what is see is not good sir way way to hot you need to stay with 400 Celsius about 750 F not more this will give you the best result

  • Ahh the easiest way to do this is just buy Lapua or Norma brass, its already annealed :D

  • you CAN'T harden brass by heating and quenching. brass only becomes softer when it is heated because all you are doing is relieving internal stress. there are no carbon molecules in brass to get trapped within a lattice when quenched. therefore the only way to harden brass is to work harden it.

  • You are very misinformed. Brass is not hardened by heat hardening. When quenching the hot brass, it doesn't change the physical properties of the brass. Brass is only hardened when it is shaped, pounded and in reloading resizing hardens the case. The object of brass annealing is to soften the neck, because the neck takes on the most abuse when fired and resized. Annealing will lengthen the life of your brass. Also I wouldn't heat until bright red as you do. Over 700 degrees will collapse.

  • getting it red hot makes it to soft this is bad

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  • I heat my brass in my RONCO rotisserie for 2 hours. It comes out SAFER than your method.

  • Rest in Peace, brother.

  • Brass can only be annealed. It CANNOT be tempered. That is a material fact. The only way to harden bass is to work harden it. Period. You are also getting your brass to the point of flowing by heating it that much.

  • I just did it this way with my 300 wsm on Norma. I got the head glowing, then tipped it over.

    Do you have a problem with un-even heat?

    I mean will the heating it on one side cause anything bad.

  • Thanks for the video-I tried it and it works just fine for me too,thanks again

  • Holy crap...you are getting those things WAAAAAYYYYY too hot. They should never, ever, ever get cherry red. Getting them to a kind of blue color is more than sufficient.

  • 1. Your brass will be waaaaaay too soft using this method. The necks should NEVER reach red hot like that.

    2. Quenching brass does not temper it to standard hardness nor does it temper it at all.

  • Amen brother

  • so how many times should this method be done? is that a way to lengthen the life of your brass?

  • What I have decided is: Tempering brass works, that is how I was taught to do it, I have done it for years, I will continue to do so.

  • @TexasStraightShooter

    I hope some of you watching read these post!! I am a certified gunsmith, and I have been reloading for several years. I own my own shop and after watching this video feel like I need to say a few things for peoples safety. This is not annealing brass, this is by all and every means tempering brass which is not a good idea. Brass is used because of it's nature, and is softness. There is never a reason to temper it because hardness equals brittleness

  • @TexasStraightShooter  WHAT A MORON!

  • I did some serious soul searching on this topic, I even turned to the good book- the Lyman reloading handbook, and noted that they recommend that folks not anneal their brass unless they are a trained professional.

    Then I turned to another good book, the Lee reloading handbook, and Mr. Lee is obviously upset that 90% of reloaders dont bother to anneal their brass, and are just wasting a valuable resource by sentencing their brass to a premature death.

  • Yeasssir way toooo hota,....!

    I only heat my a brassa to cheery heat but....I confess your brass did not collaps as I expected...

    So mate, I am converted,....the softer the better for accurasiy.

    Loooong live Australia....and our mates in the USA........!

  • Thanks for all the powder!

    Hodgen is buying up your fine Australian gun powder and putting their name on it.

    It shoots very well for me, all my favorite powders are Australian!

  • WAY too hot and uneven heating and cooling.

  • This is the same process that all steel is tempered.

    If you don't think that it will work, then don't try it.

    I have shot thousands of rounds like this, and it works for me, your untested opinion may vary.

  • This is brass not steel

    tempered makes it harder Annealing makes it softer and that's the goal here. The only problem is that it is WAY WAY to hot. With the lights off when it just start to turn maroon shade your done THAT'S IT.

  • When any metal is heated glowing hot all the stress in that metal is relieved (removed). If it was heated to glowing hot and allowed to cool slowly it would be very soft, might be too soft, I never tried it with rifle brass. When the glowing hot brass is quenched in the water it is tempered to a standard hardness that is good for full length resizing and shooting in a rifle. Once it has been shot one time it is too hard again.

  • methinks you are making that brass way too damn hot. a dull red is all you need. you are within 100 degrees of melting thr brass. That is xaclty how i anneal all my brass. good form, just use less heat. thats too hot man.

  • Even on Midway you don't see Potterfield get the brass neck glowing hot. If this works for you great. Have you ever had a KB doing this process?

  • The overall system looks ok but he is getting the brass WAY TOO hot. If he did it with fewer brass and with the lights on to see the color change it is a god system to anneal alot of brass. However I do have to agree DONT SELL THIS TO ANYONE!

  • I guess if some is good, more must be better eh? Don't do this people, this brass has been ruined!

  • Where was the water bucket?  Thanks for sharing.

  • The brass is setting in water in the tray.

    The way to find the correct water level for a cartridge is to put a bit too much water, say just a bit over half of the case in depth, then attempt to heat up the mouth. As long as the water is too deep, you will not be able to heat the mouth glowing hot, but as you remove water, you will find a depth that will allow you to heat the brass. Put a mark on the tray of that water depth as a reference point.

  • is annealing generally for necked cartridges only?

  • Yes, necked brass tends to get hard and crack at the mouth or shoulder.

    Using this method I have never had a cracked case, just cases that were retired because the primer pocket got too loose.

  • dangerous and bordering on stupidity

  • I make shells for the military and when we anneal M103's we never get the brase red because when mercury tests are done they will faile the rockwell punch test.

  • Man, This is the most wrong way I have ever seen to anneal brass. Sir please never sell this to anyone, it is all ruined. Please read a book on annealing

  • @healthpimp

    I already know that there are folks that don't believe in heating up brass.

    I intentionally heated this brass up a bit more than I usually do, just to prove that it won't hurt a thing, just as long as you don't melt the brass, and as long as the head is protected.

    I have shot the brass in the video a couple of times since then with no problems.

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